Davonat
Avid Member
You will need a basking heat lamp bulb in a dome with that hood. A house hold bulb will work or a specific basking lamp from Zoo Med or others
About to build my first Cage. For my first Cham.
- Thread starter Salty
- Start date
You will need a basking heat lamp bulb in a dome with that hood. A house hold bulb will work or a specific basking lamp from Zoo Med or others
Solid Snake
Avid Member
True. Nite temps can go down to 50F safely.
Midnighthwk
New Member
psh i forgot what i was going to say other than blacklight is bad, more live plats the better. they help with the humidity.
depending on what size light fixture u get , u might want to get the single 4' one for the plant like and a smaller one for the uvb, reg dome light for backing.
48'' uvb can get spendy
since u want a screen bottom u will beed some bracing for the plants and what evers in there.
umm i fi can remember all that i was going to say i will get back to u.
and welcome
depending on what size light fixture u get , u might want to get the single 4' one for the plant like and a smaller one for the uvb, reg dome light for backing.
48'' uvb can get spendy
since u want a screen bottom u will beed some bracing for the plants and what evers in there.
umm i fi can remember all that i was going to say i will get back to u.
and welcome
Davonat
Avid Member
He said he was going 2&1/2 - 3 feet wide
Your dimentions are the same as what I was thinking. These are my thoughts on my cage.... But understand I have a multi million dollar shop at my disposal. All sides are to have black aluminium screen. The top is going to be plywood with a formica laminate on the inside It will be open only where my hood will sit. No bugs or chams will be climbing up there & moisture proof. The back & sides will also have removable ply-laminate panels. This will help keep humidity in. But the screen allows bugs to climb on, & a way to attach vines & branches with thumb tacks. I free range my bugs and my Cham likes to hunt! I dont think I am going with a drain type bottom... My opinion is.. I mist every 1 1/2hr for short periods about 30 seconds with my Mist King this dampens the cage but doesnt flood it
I have a large Zoo Med dripper my cham drinks from & drips all day. The drops are caught in a tupperware container with a screen lid which has a drain hole & pipe that drains to a gallon milk jug inside the cabinet undrneath. I will place braces at the bottom to support the plants but the tray will be made of Corion & slide out like a drawer or bread board. You wont believe how much easier this makes your life!! You will be cleaning it alot. I will post pics of my build when I start it... Which should be soon .. My guy is amazingly big for only 4 1/2 months and growing more every day Dave
Salty
New Member
I can't seem to get my mind off the black light. Here is why.
As natural as possible.
Although a fogger will not be necissary, it may help add to the feel of morning fog and due. In trying to replicate sunrise and sunset I feel like a black light for 15 or 20 minutes would be as clse as you can get to a megistic morning in madigascar... yes?? This happens while the morning fog rolls in... It sounds like a nice way to wake my cham up... Before hitting him with the harsh day lights.
I am borrowing this idea from my saltwater reef aquarium. Coral tanks require Actenic bulbs (black lights) in order for the coral to be healthy and show better colors. They are on timers to turn on before the bright 10K lights.
My exotic fish and coral really seem to enjoy this calming effect...
Do you think it would be harmfull to try it and moniter the cham's reaction?
I could use something to dampen the black light so it is not quite as powerful....
I can already tell this project is going to be trouble. lol I am spending every waking moment thinking about it and I don't even have my cham yet! I am sapose to be studying for mid terms that happen in a couple days lmao...
As natural as possible.
Although a fogger will not be necissary, it may help add to the feel of morning fog and due. In trying to replicate sunrise and sunset I feel like a black light for 15 or 20 minutes would be as clse as you can get to a megistic morning in madigascar... yes?? This happens while the morning fog rolls in... It sounds like a nice way to wake my cham up... Before hitting him with the harsh day lights.
I am borrowing this idea from my saltwater reef aquarium. Coral tanks require Actenic bulbs (black lights) in order for the coral to be healthy and show better colors. They are on timers to turn on before the bright 10K lights.
My exotic fish and coral really seem to enjoy this calming effect...
Do you think it would be harmfull to try it and moniter the cham's reaction?
I could use something to dampen the black light so it is not quite as powerful....
I can already tell this project is going to be trouble. lol I am spending every waking moment thinking about it and I don't even have my cham yet! I am sapose to be studying for mid terms that happen in a couple days lmao...
I'm not sure why you think a blacklight will simulate a sunrise/sunset....I'd have to disagree. I fail to see any reason for using a blacklight, but I also don't necessarily see that it would hurt if used during daytime (but no lights at night as chameleons can see the full spectrum)
ACTINIC lighting is for corals b/c at those levels underwater, the "redder" parts of the spectrum don't make it. ABOVE ground, we use 6500K (NOT 10000K) bulbs. If you are not familiar with how "color temp" works, you may want to look it up, but in general for non-aquatics you do need the red parts of the spectrum (also why most grow lights are more reddish/pinkish hued).
I highly doubt that your reef-theory will carry over to the terrestrial (well, technically arboreal) setup in this case.
EDIT: Chameleons are PREY animals and that means they hide harm/reactions very well. Since this is your first chameleon, it is going to be quite difficult just spotting regular reactions in him, let alone introducing an unknown stimuli and attempting to gauge his reactions based on it. You won't have anything to base it on, imho.
SUMMARY of things you need/want:
UVB Bulb - many use 5.0 Reptisun; I prefer tube lamps for even dispersion, others use CFLs and have a focused spot...up to you really
HEAT/BASKING bulb - standard incandescent bulb in a dome works fine. Most use 60W, adjust based on your ambient temps
NIGHT HEAT - don't need unless your ambient night temps are below 60F. If so, use a CERAMIC heater (NO LIGHT) as chams can see red lights... (many "reptile" night products claim reptiles can't see red spectrum for nighttime vieweing bulbs, this is NOT true for chams)
If you intend to just have a basic large plant with a little bit of supplemental stuff, the 2x T8 fixture will suffice. If you plan to plant the setup heavily you will probably need more light. But if you are aiming for what most people have on here, then the 2x will prob be good.
Waterfalls are generally a bad idea and chams do not drink standing water (must have misting system). They drink water off leaves as it rains. However, this does not mean you can't have a waterfall...but unless you are making one with proper filtration and water changes/etc, I would not recommend one. As a first setup, I would further not recommend one as water features increase the complexity of the setup far more than they initially seem to.
As someone else said about 4' UVB costs....I personally use the 2' UVB bulbs. Have you considered 2 sets of 2x2' rather than 1 set of 2x4' bulbs for this reason.
Lastly, DRAINAGE!!! Due to the amount you are watering your plants WILL GET FLOODED. The "standard" approach to this is to setup a drainage table a few inches raised. Also, I would *HIGHLY* recommend using a more aerated soil (I use Fox Farms Ocean Soil "blue bag" from hydroponics shops or you can create your own by mixing potting soil with a fair volume of PERLITE, COCO CHIPS, or similar). This will prevent your soil from being too wet and drowning your plants. You can try to avoid the drainage layer by using larger pots and filling the bottom of the pots with 1-2" gravel or hydroton but you still have the issue of where the drained water is going to go....
To save some cash on the silicone, Lowe's carries GE SILICONE I - Windows and Doors and this has been time-tested by many many froggers over at dendroboards with success. GE II silicone also works but is not as recommended for closed setups due to some anti-mold ingredients; however seeing as this is an open air setup it should work fine (I personally have used GE II for a few years now with no problems).
ACTINIC lighting is for corals b/c at those levels underwater, the "redder" parts of the spectrum don't make it. ABOVE ground, we use 6500K (NOT 10000K) bulbs. If you are not familiar with how "color temp" works, you may want to look it up, but in general for non-aquatics you do need the red parts of the spectrum (also why most grow lights are more reddish/pinkish hued).
I highly doubt that your reef-theory will carry over to the terrestrial (well, technically arboreal) setup in this case.
EDIT: Chameleons are PREY animals and that means they hide harm/reactions very well. Since this is your first chameleon, it is going to be quite difficult just spotting regular reactions in him, let alone introducing an unknown stimuli and attempting to gauge his reactions based on it. You won't have anything to base it on, imho.
SUMMARY of things you need/want:
UVB Bulb - many use 5.0 Reptisun; I prefer tube lamps for even dispersion, others use CFLs and have a focused spot...up to you really
HEAT/BASKING bulb - standard incandescent bulb in a dome works fine. Most use 60W, adjust based on your ambient temps
NIGHT HEAT - don't need unless your ambient night temps are below 60F. If so, use a CERAMIC heater (NO LIGHT) as chams can see red lights... (many "reptile" night products claim reptiles can't see red spectrum for nighttime vieweing bulbs, this is NOT true for chams)
If you intend to just have a basic large plant with a little bit of supplemental stuff, the 2x T8 fixture will suffice. If you plan to plant the setup heavily you will probably need more light. But if you are aiming for what most people have on here, then the 2x will prob be good.
Waterfalls are generally a bad idea and chams do not drink standing water (must have misting system). They drink water off leaves as it rains. However, this does not mean you can't have a waterfall...but unless you are making one with proper filtration and water changes/etc, I would not recommend one. As a first setup, I would further not recommend one as water features increase the complexity of the setup far more than they initially seem to.
As someone else said about 4' UVB costs....I personally use the 2' UVB bulbs. Have you considered 2 sets of 2x2' rather than 1 set of 2x4' bulbs for this reason.
Lastly, DRAINAGE!!! Due to the amount you are watering your plants WILL GET FLOODED. The "standard" approach to this is to setup a drainage table a few inches raised. Also, I would *HIGHLY* recommend using a more aerated soil (I use Fox Farms Ocean Soil "blue bag" from hydroponics shops or you can create your own by mixing potting soil with a fair volume of PERLITE, COCO CHIPS, or similar). This will prevent your soil from being too wet and drowning your plants. You can try to avoid the drainage layer by using larger pots and filling the bottom of the pots with 1-2" gravel or hydroton but you still have the issue of where the drained water is going to go....
To save some cash on the silicone, Lowe's carries GE SILICONE I - Windows and Doors and this has been time-tested by many many froggers over at dendroboards with success. GE II silicone also works but is not as recommended for closed setups due to some anti-mold ingredients; however seeing as this is an open air setup it should work fine (I personally have used GE II for a few years now with no problems).
Last edited:
Solid Snake
Avid Member
You can use a fogger. Its just that your humidity will be ok with out it. Having it come on in the morning does look nice. I used to run one on my jacksons enclosure.
Im no lighting expert. I am pretty sure the spectrum put off by a blacklight is unatural. I use 4 lights on top of my cage. I stagger the "on/off" times so that a "sunrise/sunset" effect is created. Can you explain in further detail how a blacklight could be benificial to the animal? Im not going to say you are wrong, but as far as I know this is new territory. If you think there is valid reason to use it, lets discuss it and figure it out.
Solid Snake
Avid Member
All lighting on top. Period. Up is where the sun is.
Valid assumption though.
I keep a pothos directly under my grow light. It blocks alot of it from reaching the bottom areas of the cage. My other plants still do fine.
The light will penetrate the canopy layer.
Salty
New Member
I guess i can't really think of a benifficial reason other than it will just look magical for my sunrise..... 
(edit) (refering to the black light)
Maby A nice blue light would be a better way to go.... It would not have the violent effect. Just a nice relaxing calm glow of light before the day lights turn on.
(edit) (refering to the black light)Maby A nice blue light would be a better way to go.... It would not have the violent effect. Just a nice relaxing calm glow of light before the day lights turn on.
Solid Snake
Avid Member
Ive never seen fog "glow". But the plant lights(as stated) are reddish, and the uvb(especially reptiglo) is blue. You could have one of those turn of first.
Salty
New Member
If you have never seen nature in a soft "glow" in a color of blue or pink before the sun comes all the way up, I strongly suggest you get out and do some early morning hiking. When everything comes together correctly it does seem magical.
I am not trying to be rude or suggesting that you are not active but I have seen sunrises in many differant parts of the world and you do have to see a lot of sunrises to find the "magical" ones but they do exist.
I am not trying to be rude or suggesting that you are not active but I have seen sunrises in many differant parts of the world and you do have to see a lot of sunrises to find the "magical" ones but they do exist.
Solid Snake
Avid Member
Im aware. Ive just not seen it glow like a club dancefloor.
Ive spent many an hour, outdoors, in the fog.
I use electric timers from home depot.
Salty
New Member
I guess I'll just use the regular blue light you are talking about. I'm going to have to figure out something else for light fun and just not have it on a normal timer. (only use it occasionally for brief visual effect) But I will not try anything fancy for daily use.
Also, As far as drainage. I do like the earlyer mentioned idea about misting every hour and a half for 30 seconds as appose to misting only 2 or three times a day.
Misting more often will also create a more stable enviornment.
It seems like everyone missed my water proof compartment with an easily accessable and removeable trey that is below the screen floor and will catch water runnoff. Or will this not be good? How deep should my removeable trey be?
And!! how often do people clean?!?
Also, As far as drainage. I do like the earlyer mentioned idea about misting every hour and a half for 30 seconds as appose to misting only 2 or three times a day.
Misting more often will also create a more stable enviornment.
It seems like everyone missed my water proof compartment with an easily accessable and removeable trey that is below the screen floor and will catch water runnoff. Or will this not be good? How deep should my removeable trey be?
And!! how often do people clean?!?
Solid Snake
Avid Member
I didnt miss it. I do 8 mists a day, from 1-5min in length. Just make sure you have a drying out period, so mold doesnt become a problem. Most people recomend waiting for the cage to dry completely until misting again. Hence the 3 mistings for 5min a time "standard".
Dance floor Lol. I guess you are right. It is not really the same. There has to be a good way to replicate it better than just using white lights though...
You have talked me out of the black light.
You could always use some accent led lighting to come on in the morning, if you just HAVE to have it.
That could work.
I try to keep things simple, and natural.
I use sticks/vines from outside, only live plants, and try to get the chams sunlight every day.
Nature already has it figured out, just roll with it.
Salty
New Member
I have been talking with Eric from Chams 101. He just told me that his buddy actually got a grant while he was in college just for playing with light and chameleons! They bought the guy 40 chameleons and a bunch of equipment. He studied lights and their effects on chameleons for 2 years. I'm going to contact him and see what he thinks. I'm super excited about it. The guy has a website called "Color by Number Critters". I have not looked at it yet.
Alright! I am off to home depot or Lowes to buy some materials and get this thing going. I'll take pictures as I go. Thank you everyone for your input!! Still, if you have more ideas or comments please post em.
Alright! I am off to home depot or Lowes to buy some materials and get this thing going. I'll take pictures as I go. Thank you everyone for your input!! Still, if you have more ideas or comments please post em.
