A wise older vet gave me insight

MzLaurie

Avid Member
This is a long one but the info I am sharing needs to be heard. My veiled Hunter has a hemipene protrusion that I posted about. After cutting off the blood flow with a rubber band he has continued to go downhill so I contacted the vet and wouldn’t you know it, he is on a three week vacation. The other vet does not handle reptiles. So I asked for my vets email and they said just send it here and we will forward it to him. They didn’t then at 9:30pm they contacted my son because I was asleep and got me on the phone saying the owner is going to come in tomorrow just to see Hunter. So I was there at 11am and met an amazing older vet who told me things that I want to share with everyone. He said he pulled hunters entire record and thinks there is something systemic going on. Told me his first chameleons were in the 1968. He got a male and female Jackson. At that time, there was no information about chameleons available to the public and only minimal to vets. There were also no things to buy to care for them. He said he killed his male he thinks by feeding him only crickets. He didn’t know that a one Item diet could be so destructive thankfully he had mated him with the female, and she gave birth to two live Jackson’s. So every day he took a hike to an area that wasn’t inhabited by humans so everything would be pesticide free and gathered up a big trash bag full of leaves grass everything he could find. Then let the babies crawl through everything they ate little spiders whatever was in there and it was keeping them alive and they actually grew up. He then asked me about calcium. He said that with reptiles it’s MBD but when pets became an industry the way they made pet food basically killed off any calcium and nutrition so they just threw tons of calcium at all animals not just reptiles that became a big problem. He saw dogs with swayed backs, etc. he said that they’ve straightened it out for our furry friends, but not for not for reptiles. I told him that it was daily as he was growing up by lightly dusting the crickets and then when he was about eight months old started feeding him every other day, but that I always have added different things to the diet instead of just crickets. He told me to stop all calcium intake and I said I had just switched to liquid to make sure that he got calcium because he’s not eating except for carnivore diet and I switched back-and-forth between that and hornworms. He said that’s actually really good but do not give any calcium Because calcium can cause major problems and that I should do some research on it. He said the feeders have enough calcium that you could cut it down to twice a month if at all. He said hornworms and silkworms are the best and crickets, Dubias, and super worms are sufficient. When they are young 12 crickets and BSFL will give them the calcium they need. Now this is against everything I have learned. But reading about the harm from too much calcium in reptiles I see what he means. Gout, kidney failure etc. I told him that I had put bubble wrap on the bottom of his cage to break his fall but he has gotten so weak that I set up a uvb light by my bed and he rests on a pillow by me but I was actually setting up a hospital cage. He said the stress from moving him to a hospital cage will do more harm than the fall. He said to keep his cage but put in netting to catch him. He then asked me about water. I told him that I have a drip system and hand mist two to three times a day. Since he is sick I give him water with a syringe by dripping it over his mouth to trigger the drink response. Then he told me something I have never heard before. He said many times they walk over wet leaves and if water has pooled in the leaf they will sit in it and absorb it thru their vent! He said there is one major thing I am going to add and that is probiotics. I asked how do I give it to him, with water? He said no. If he doesn’t like the taste it could cause him to avoid water. He said take a pinch like if you were going to add a pinch of salt to your food and mix it with a little carnivore diet then mix it so it’s liquidy and give it to him that way. He said to keep up with going back and forth with feedings between carnivore and hornworms. Continue with antibiotics and pain meds, no calcium, continue with the beta caratene, give probiotics daily if he makes it thru this then you need to continue the probiotics to ensure the good bacteria is in his system and will hopefully repair what all the antibiotics have done. He also told me to always remove the molt from the bottom of feet, toes and nails. He has seen so many chameleons, geckos, bearded dragons, etc lose fingers from the circulation cut off from partial sheds on the bottom of the feet.

I know a lot of this goes against what we were taught and what we tell others. But I think this vet truly loves animals and what he says, I believe. I did read about over doing diet with calcium. I suggest you all do too. The Fauna/Flora is the probiotic and it’s for all animals. Going to figure out how to give it to my cat! Can’t hurt.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0708.jpeg
    IMG_0708.jpeg
    200.4 KB · Views: 2
After cutting off the blood flow with a rubber band
I’m sorry, but I’m having a hard time getting past this. I understand the theory/process, but do I understand correctly that you did this to Hunter’s hemipenes prolapse? Why? I must have missed this post…why didn’t you take him to the vet and have the protrusion/prolapse tucked back in and secured with a stitch if needed? Or did the vet do the banding?
The rest, mainly about the calcium I don’t know enough to comment on. I don’t believe we have any true idea how much of a dose is needed for chameleons. Proper hydration though will be of help in natural elimination of all but the fat-based vitamins and minerals. But I will comment that chameleons do not absorb anything thru their vents. This is a long-standing myth that is held as fact by even the best vets and it drives me insane. I don’t know where this belief started, but we need to do what we can to stop it. This is about beardies, but it applies to chameleons as well.
 
You may want to read some of these…
An Overview of Calcium Supplementation
By Matthew Wheelock, DVM
http://www.chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html

Introduction to Calcium
By Sue Donoghue, DVM, DACVN
http://www.chameleonnews.com/02MayDonoghue.html

Vitamin D3 and Calcium:
by Kenneth Lopez, D.V.M.
http://web.archive.org/web/20060421.../index.php?show=6.Vitamin.D3.and.Calcium.html


“If you don’t see the animal drinking while soaking, however, don’t assume it will be rehydrated just because it is soaking. There is an old wives’ tale that a herp will suck fluid up through its cloaca. While it is true that some turtle species do experience electrolyte exchange across their cloacal membranes, and some turtles do reabsorb urinary fluids in their bladders, I have seen no proof that herps in general are able to absorb enough water through their cloacas to replace fluid deficits.” (Mader, Douglas. “The Vet Report: Fluid Therapy in Reptiles.” Reptiles Magazine October 2014: 12-13)
https://reptileapartment.com/keeping-chameleons-in-the-misinformation-age/
 
All I can really say about this is 2 things that I've learned from personal experience.

1) I have a terrible tendency to 'ghost' my crickets, silkworms, etc. When I feed Spike BSFL, I don't even use calcium. I just feed them. However, my point is, if calcium was killing these chameleons, Spike would be dead.
2) Everyone's experience with vets for these reptiles is probably different. However, my experience with a vet on chameleons taught me to run away from vets and stay here for information. Now if some kind of procedure needs to be done, different story. Obviously some things need to be done by a vet. However, my vet that I had for my first chameleon, Max, also told me a story about how he used to keep chameleons.

What he told me next was alarming.

"Make sure he (Max was a she...) has a BOWL of water to drink from" YIKES.
"I don't see anything that indicates she is sick" (I personally saw the 'mucus' in her mouth and he shrugged it off)
"I could never keep any of my chameleons alive for an extended period of time" YIKES.


TBH I couldn't run out of there fast enough. This was a few years ago so I forget most of what was said because it was all so ridiculous. And while there are definitely reptile vets you can trust, my point here is just be weary of any vet telling you things that COMPLETELY contradict what you're told by experienced keepers who have been doing this for a long time, successfully.

Sometimes vets truly don't know. And unfortunately, instead of just admitting that, some of them (not all) just use "general vet knowledge". They want you to believe they know what they're doing with reptiles, when they really don't.

I don't know that vet obviously, but it sounds similar to my experience, IMO.

And FYI, after my vet telling me that Max was in great shape and good health; Max died about 5 days later.
 
Eh I think you can do whatever you want with your chameleon and take whatever advice you would like to. I would not recommend that others remove plain calcium without D3 from the recommended supplementation routine. I think this is asking for issues. I also believe that there is a lot of risk to recommending unproven methods to others that may not know better.

There is a reason why you should not overly coat your insects with supplements. Too much of a good thing causes issues as well. Same as not the correct amounts of D3 and A will cause issues. People either do not use the right supplements or add way too much or use it in a schedule that is too much or too little. The only insect we readily feed in this hobby that does not have to be supplemented due to its calcium levels are BSFL. I also what to mention one of the big reasons we supplement with phosphorus free calcium without D3 is to balance the phosphorus levels of the insect itself. A high phosphorus intake combined with little to no calcium intake can cause issues with the calcium absorption. This effects bone health.

The recommended supplement schedule for most chams like Veileds and Panthers is phosphorus free calcium without D3 at all feedings and then 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th you will use a good multivitamin that has D3 and vitamin A. The two most common are reptivite with D3 and Repashy Calcium plus LoD version. Not all supplements are made the same with the same levels or ingredients. This is where a lot of people are steered in the wrong direction. Supplementation and UVB are the two hardest things to understand IMO. And these are the two areas where keepers make errors and the two areas I pushed myself to understand the in's and out's of.

Soaking their vents.... I literally have never ever seen any of the chameleons I had do this. And they were all in my bedroom/office area where I could watch them all day long. I also offered longer misting sessions where water could pool on leaves. So while I could see a bearded dragon sitting in water I do not see this as being accurate for chams. And hopefully people understand that forced soaking a chameleon is a well known cause of stress for a cham and it should never be done.

The probiotic to me looks safe. BUT AGAIN too much of a good thing can be a bad thing. This goes with everything we do and offer including things like bee pollen.

Again I am not going to preach about what someone should do with their own cham especially when they have been in the hobby and forum long enough to know what is recommended. But I do not believe posting things that differ from what the leaders in our hobby that directly work with chameleons every single day recommend without giving what they recommend is ok in this type of forum. Too many people come here to read and learn. We see what happens when people come here from other forums that teach them incorrect husbandry. They show up with chams that are sick and we have to try to help them learn the right methods of husbandry to try to save the chameleon.

We have also seen what happens when a vet treats a chameleon incorrectly here because they do not have hands on or up to date current knowledge of the hobby. While they may have the best of intentions just because they have a degree in exotics does not mean they are well versed in current husbandry for chameleons.
 
He said that’s actually really good but do not give any calcium Because calcium can cause major problems and that I should do some research on it.

But reading about the harm from too much calcium in reptiles I see what he means.

Your vet is working off of his personal experience only. Did he do lab work or a necropsy the first one that died? How did the results of the blood work necropsy prove that crickets were the cause? All of his assumptions are pure conjecture with out evidence. I would like to see the sources of your research that calcium is harmful. Where are you reading about calcium being harmful? Can you provide links? These may not be reliable sources.

I worked in 2 mixed practice vet hospitals that saw birds and reptiles and did my practical studies at the University of Pennsylvania including a rotation thru the exotic department as a RVT. The number one condition in reptiles at all three locations was Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) from lack of calcium and UVB. Can calcium be over used yes but it doesn't cause gout or kidney failure. Feeding the wrong proteins, incorrectly fed feeder insects, infections and dehydration are linked to these conditions. Over feeding of calcium can cause constipation and a slowing of digestion. Yes, dust your feeders lightly. Yes, vary your chameleons diet. Yes, feed soft bodied worms when you want to boost hydration in a sick animal and as part of a varied diet. Yes wild feeders from clean sources can be fed responsibly.

When calcium supplements were introduced for reptiles it was a game changer. We used to have to grind up Tums for a calcium source. MBD is now far less prevalent than it was. I can't tell you how many green iguanas I radio-graphed, x-rayed, to find none of their bones were calcified. Now reptiles are living long enough in captivity to actually have other problems.

I'm also wonder how much of his advise was meant as specific treatment of your pet and not meant as general advise for healthy chameleons. If you are feeding Carnivore Care you are feeding calcium and D3 at every feeding. If so you don't need to supplement with more as you are probably feeding too much D3 already and A as well. You are also feeding an insectivore a diet made of mostly chicken and egg. A couple doses is fine but over time it can create fat soluble vitamin overdose and/or lead to gout. Insectivores can't handle a lot of bird or mammal protein.

Are there supplements that can be toxic if over fed? Yes too much D3 or A, fat soluble vitamins can cause issues and I wonder if this is what he really meant. D3 should only be given once or twice a month depending on species, dose and husbandry.

I would use the advise of people who have cared for generations of chameleons. If you don't want to heed the advise of the collective experience of this community then please read from reliable sources like chameleonacademy.com/ There are a lot of people out there saying outrageous things just to get attention. Stick to vets with current training and research based sources.
 
The only place I ever saw people naysaying calcium for chameleons was the subreddit r/chameleons.
They confused "snalt" (that is usually the result of using hard water) for a sign of excess calcium usage.
 
I want to clarify that I don't believe the statement I read. It was the only example of the misinformation of calcium that I could think of and I brought it up anecdotally.
I started my research and interest there, but I ended up getting banned from the subreddit for a combination of mentioning the chameleon academy, neptune's videos, and recommending this forum without knowing they had a vendetta 😓
 
I want to clarify that I don't believe the statement I read. It was the only example of the misinformation of calcium that I could think of and I brought it up anecdotally.
I started my research and interest there, but I ended up getting banned from the subreddit for a combination of mentioning the chameleon academy, neptune's videos, and recommending this forum without knowing they had a vendetta 😓
Don't sweat it. Reddit is trash in general. Not even talking about their Chameleon community. Just in general. You're at the right place! 🙂

Any place banning you for sharing the Chameleon academy or these forums are doing you a favor by banning you.
 
Didn’t know this would cause such an uproar. This is coming from a herp vet who has owned chameleons for over sixty years not someone from Reddit!
This biggest thing I got from his wisdom was adding a probiotic to his diet. I didn’t even know they had probiotics for reptiles. BTW my boy is still alive but still on death watch here. He said if he makes it thru and goes back to a well balanced diet, then calcium once a weak.

Here’s why too much calcium is bad for reptiles:

1.
Calcium Overdose (Hypercalcemia)

  • Too much calcium in the bloodstream can lead to soft tissue mineralization (calcium deposits in organs like the kidneys or heart).
  • It can cause kidney failure, lethargy, and constipation.
  • In severe cases, it can lead to death.
2.
Calcium Without Vitamin D3

  • Reptiles need vitamin D3 (from UVB light or supplements) to absorb calcium properly.
  • If they get too much calcium but no D3, it can still build up in the wrong places because it’s not being used correctly.
3.

Imbalance With Phosphorus

  • The ideal calcium-to-phosphorus ratio for most reptiles is 2:1.
  • Too much calcium can throw off that balance and interfere with phosphorus metabolism, which is also essential for bones and energy.

Common signs of too much calcium in reptiles:

  • Lethargy
  • Lack of appetite
  • Swollen joints
  • Abnormal urates (chalky, hard)
  • Organ failure (in advanced cases)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Didn’t know this would cause such an uproar. This is coming from a herp vet who has owned chameleons for over sixty years not someone from Reddit!
This biggest thing I got from his wisdom was adding a probiotic to his diet. I didn’t even know they had probiotics for reptiles. BTW my boy is still alive but still on death watch here. He said if he makes it thru and goes back to a well balanced diet, then calcium once a weak.




Here’s why too much calcium is bad for reptiles:











1.


Calcium Overdose (Hypercalcemia)








  • Too much calcium in the bloodstream can lead to soft tissue mineralization (calcium deposits in organs like the kidneys or heart).
  • It can cause kidney failure, lethargy, and constipation.
  • In severe cases, it can lead to death.










2.


Calcium Without Vitamin D3








  • Reptiles need vitamin D3 (from UVB light or supplements) to absorb calcium properly.
  • If they get too much calcium but no D3, it can still build up in the wrong places because it’s not being used correctly.










3.


Imbalance With Phosphorus








  • The ideal calcium-to-phosphorus ratio for most reptiles is 2:1.
  • Too much calcium can throw off that balance and interfere with phosphorus metabolism, which is also essential for bones and energy.
















Common signs of too much calcium in reptiles:








  • Lethargy
  • Lack of appetite
  • Swollen joints
  • Abnormal urates (chalky, hard)
  • Organ failure (in advanced cases)








Here’s why too much calcium is bad for reptiles:











1.


Calcium Overdose (Hypercalcemia)








  • Too much calcium in the bloodstream can lead to soft tissue mineralization (calcium deposits in organs like the kidneys or heart).
  • It can cause kidney failure, lethargy, and constipation.
  • In severe cases, it can lead to death.










2.


Calcium Without Vitamin D3








  • Reptiles need vitamin D3 (from UVB light or supplements) to absorb calcium properly.
  • If they get too much calcium but no D3, it can still build up in the wrong places because it’s not being used correctly.










3.


Imbalance With Phosphorus








  • The ideal calcium-to-phosphorus ratio for most reptiles is 2:1.
  • Too much calcium can throw off that balance and interfere with phosphorus metabolism, which is also essential for bones and energy.
















Common signs of too much calcium in reptiles:








  • Lethargy
  • Lack of appetite
  • Swollen joints
  • Abnormal urates (chalky, hard)
  • Organ failure (in advanced cases)






Here’s why too much calcium is bad for reptiles:











1.


Calcium Overdose (Hypercalcemia)








  • Too much calcium in the bloodstream can lead to soft tissue mineralization (calcium deposits in organs like the kidneys or heart).
  • It can cause kidney failure, lethargy, and constipation.
  • In severe cases, it can lead to death.










2.


Calcium Without Vitamin D3








  • Reptiles need vitamin D3 (from UVB light or supplements) to absorb calcium properly.
  • If they get too much calcium but no D3, it can still build up in the wrong places because it’s not being used correctly.










3.


Imbalance With Phosphorus








  • The ideal calcium-to-phosphorus ratio for most reptiles is 2:1.
  • Too much calcium can throw off that balance and interfere with phosphorus metabolism, which is also essential for bones and energy.
















Common signs of too much calcium in reptiles:








  • Lethargy
  • Lack of appetite
  • Swollen joints
  • Abnormal urates (chalky, hard)
  • Organ failure (in advanced cases)

A lot of us work in healthcare, there are even doctors and vets on this forum. What you posted is very basic and common info I’m sure most here are familiar with to some degree. It feels like you are implying that many here are not aware that there are downsides to too much calcium. None of this means one should not give calcium, it means to correctly balance the phosphorous to calcium ration. Most insects have a much higher phosphorus to calcium ratio, therefore we very lightly dust. This does not cause hypercalcemia, if it did we wouldn’t have veileds and panthers pushing close to 10 years old. Too much of pretty much anything will have negative effects.
 
Didn’t know this would cause such an uproar. This is coming from a herp vet who has owned chameleons for over sixty years not someone from Reddit!
This biggest thing I got from his wisdom was adding a probiotic to his diet. I didn’t even know they had probiotics for reptiles. BTW my boy is still alive but still on death watch here. He said if he makes it thru and goes back to a well balanced diet, then calcium once a weak.
As has already been said much better than I ever could, we need to be very cautious and responsible about the info we put out here. A new keeper could read this and think they don’t need to give supplements. Something like this would be better suited to starting a conversation of, ‘this is what an old vet told me…what do you guys think?’ IMO, all things are best in moderation. We all take some liberties or compromises with husbandry as we all know what is best in our unique situations. But we still need to be responsible with what we say we do and is ok.
I did miss your post about your guy’s prolapse…have had a lot going on. I do hope he gets better. Poor guy has had it rough.
 
Didn’t know this would cause such an uproar. This is coming from a herp vet who has owned chameleons for over sixty years not someone from Reddit!
This biggest thing I got from his wisdom was adding a probiotic to his diet. I didn’t even know they had probiotics for reptiles. BTW my boy is still alive but still on death watch here. He said if he makes it thru and goes back to a well balanced diet, then calcium once a weak.




Here’s why too much calcium is bad for reptiles:











1.


Calcium Overdose (Hypercalcemia)








  • Too much calcium in the bloodstream can lead to soft tissue mineralization (calcium deposits in organs like the kidneys or heart).
  • It can cause kidney failure, lethargy, and constipation.
  • In severe cases, it can lead to death.










2.


Calcium Without Vitamin D3








  • Reptiles need vitamin D3 (from UVB light or supplements) to absorb calcium properly.
  • If they get too much calcium but no D3, it can still build up in the wrong places because it’s not being used correctly.










3.


Imbalance With Phosphorus








  • The ideal calcium-to-phosphorus ratio for most reptiles is 2:1.
  • Too much calcium can throw off that balance and interfere with phosphorus metabolism, which is also essential for bones and energy.
















Common signs of too much calcium in reptiles:








  • Lethargy
  • Lack of appetite
  • Swollen joints
  • Abnormal urates (chalky, hard)
  • Organ failure (in advanced cases)








Here’s why too much calcium is bad for reptiles:











1.


Calcium Overdose (Hypercalcemia)








  • Too much calcium in the bloodstream can lead to soft tissue mineralization (calcium deposits in organs like the kidneys or heart).
  • It can cause kidney failure, lethargy, and constipation.
  • In severe cases, it can lead to death.










2.


Calcium Without Vitamin D3








  • Reptiles need vitamin D3 (from UVB light or supplements) to absorb calcium properly.
  • If they get too much calcium but no D3, it can still build up in the wrong places because it’s not being used correctly.










3.


Imbalance With Phosphorus








  • The ideal calcium-to-phosphorus ratio for most reptiles is 2:1.
  • Too much calcium can throw off that balance and interfere with phosphorus metabolism, which is also essential for bones and energy.
















Common signs of too much calcium in reptiles:








  • Lethargy
  • Lack of appetite
  • Swollen joints
  • Abnormal urates (chalky, hard)
  • Organ failure (in advanced cases)






Here’s why too much calcium is bad for reptiles:











1.


Calcium Overdose (Hypercalcemia)








  • Too much calcium in the bloodstream can lead to soft tissue mineralization (calcium deposits in organs like the kidneys or heart).
  • It can cause kidney failure, lethargy, and constipation.
  • In severe cases, it can lead to death.










2.


Calcium Without Vitamin D3








  • Reptiles need vitamin D3 (from UVB light or supplements) to absorb calcium properly.
  • If they get too much calcium but no D3, it can still build up in the wrong places because it’s not being used correctly.










3.


Imbalance With Phosphorus








  • The ideal calcium-to-phosphorus ratio for most reptiles is 2:1.
  • Too much calcium can throw off that balance and interfere with phosphorus metabolism, which is also essential for bones and energy.
















Common signs of too much calcium in reptiles:








  • Lethargy
  • Lack of appetite
  • Swollen joints
  • Abnormal urates (chalky, hard)
  • Organ failure (in advanced cases)
It would be nice if you would actually read the feedback you are given here. Yet you still push back without taking in all the info you were given. I have watched for years now you say incorrect info while not understanding how you could be in the forum where you have access to every single bit of up to date husbandry guidelines and yet you take your own path. You are still doing this by saying if he improves that you would only do calcium once a week.

Chameleons rarely just get sick if their husbandry is on point. There are major things going on to cause all the things your boy has. But you still do not lean on this community to even give you day to day husbandry info much less advanced help. The people here who have a ton of experience and have tried to help you over the years yet you still go down your own path. This makes me sad. Watching chams die makes me sad. This really is all I have to say. And if you take it as being too harsh then I am sorry but sometimes being blunt is the only way people shift. I hope your boy makes a recovery.

I am leaving this thread now.
 
Didn’t know this would cause such an uproar. This is coming from a herp vet who has owned chameleons for over sixty years not someone from Reddit!
This biggest thing I got from his wisdom was adding a probiotic to his diet. I didn’t even know they had probiotics for reptiles. BTW my boy is still alive but still on death watch here. He said if he makes it thru and goes back to a well balanced diet, then calcium once a weak.
Uneducated statements cause an uproar here. I asked you to site your sources so they could be validated for accuracy and age. I don't know where the quotes you posted were sourced. When I ask for a source I mean who wrote it , Where was it published and what year? I can't validate them. It's a lot to unpack but I will do my best to explain why they don't apply.

AI overview because I'm too tired to drag out the Merck Veterinary Manual but it is accurate. Causes of Hypercalcemia.
"Hypercalcemia, or high calcium levels in the blood, is most commonly caused by either primary hyperparathyroidism or malignancy. Other causes include vitamin D toxicity, granulomatous diseases, certain medications, and immobilization. "

You will note that overfeeding of calcium is not on the list. Excess calcium is not absorbed except in the presence of vitamin D toxicity. Over feeding vitamin D3 is the problem not the calcium. Excess calcium that is not absorbed will cause constipation and slowing of the bowels. It can also block the absorption of some medications. I genuinely believe your vet was talking about Calcium with D3.

The only thing I can even begin to agree with you about is that too much of a good thing can be a bad thing. However deficiency is even more devastating. The amounts you are preparing to feed are not considered to be enough for chameleons that depend on UVB lighting and monthly or bimonthly D3 supplementation for their D3 source.

I'm so very sorry that your chameleon is suffering. I wish nothing more for him than a full recovery if that's not possible may his passing be gentle and painless.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom