http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/panther/
Cages:[/B]http://dynomitechameleons.com/
http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/enclosures/
Size: Babies can be housed in smaller enclosures to be upgraded as they grow. A chameleon 1-4 months a 16x15x20 screen is perfect; allows them to hunt efficiently. From 4-8 months keep them in a 18x18x36 and then a minimum cage size of an adult should be 24x24x48' SCREEN.
Décor:
http://dynomitechameleons.com/
http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/enclosures/
The cage should have plenty of foliage for the chameleon to feel secure in. Lots of vines to climb on, as well as horizontal and vertical climbing branches. Artificial or real plants such as pothos, umbrella plant, hibiscus, schefflera, ficus benjimina or corn plant make a wonderful addition to the cage. This also helps keep the humidity up. Substrate should not be used since a chameleon may accidentally ingest the substrate and cause impaction. Replant all pots with plain top soil. If you don’t want any bugs microwave or bake the soil.
Location: High up to simulate tree tops; not at eye sight. Not near any vents, exterior doors, fans or windows.
Lighting:
http://dynomitechameleons.com/
http://www.lllreptile.com/info/library/care-and-husbandry-articles/-/chameleon-care--an-overview/http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/lighting/
Lighting in important to chameleon heath!
Natural sunlight is best; take your chameleon outside as much as possible.
Light #1: UVB florescent light - UVB light is needed to help calcium absorption. It prevents MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) a reptisun 5.0 tubular light is recommended along with reptiglo, zilla tropical linear tube. The light should be positioned above a horizontal branch allowing the chameleon to sit at least 12 inches away from the bulb. The bulb/fixture is to be placed on top of the cage and not inside. The UVB bulb loses its ability to produce beneficial UV light over time during normal use. The UVB bulb must be replaced ONCE A YEAR; some say every 6 months.
Light#2: Basking heat light - This lamp is so your chameleon can regulate his temperature. This is important for proper digestion. Wattage will vary depending on desired basking spot temperature, distance from basking spot and ambient temperature. You will want to place the bulb on one side of the cage; providing a gradient temperature. This gradient temperature should range from areas in the mid-70s to a recommended basking temperature in the high 90s. Basking branched should be underneath the light but not so close that your chameleon can touch the bulb and burn himself. The chameleon will bask under the light when needed to warm up and move to cooler parts of the cage when he wants to cool down. Chameleons do best with a slight drop in temperature at night. There is no need for any other type of nighttime lighting or heater. Chameleons need sleep at night so no lights. Lights should come on it the morning and turn off when the sun goes down in the evening.
Other lights: If you have live plants in the cage. You will want to put a 6800K plant light over the cage as well. Also a house hold bulb; or is that considered the basking light?
Temperatures:
Basking temp 90* ambient temps 72* measure by digital gauges. A 10-15 degree night time drop in temps is great. Not recommended to go below 50*. If temps get to low at night use a ceramic heat emitter. Absolutely no light at night.
Humidity:
http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/water/
Fluctuating humidity is best. 50-80% is ideal.
Hydration: [/B]http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/water/
Automated systems like a mist king, aquazamp, monsoon are great. Misting sessions should consist of 2-5 minutes/2-3 times a day. Another great addition is a dripper. It is very important that your cage dries out between watering sessions. Chameleons DON'T drink from a dish! In the wild, chameleons would drink dew or rain off the leaves. Completely wet all the leaves in the enclosure. Your chameleon will lick the running water and the water collecting on the leaves. Is it true that all the water should be treated with a reptile conditioner to remove harmful chlorine?
Food:
http://dynomitechameleons.com/
http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/food/
A growing baby veiled or panther should eat 7 to 10 crickets a day. Once they reach adult hood they should eat about 5 crickets every day or every other day if obesity becomes an issue. Crickets can be kept in a tote bin with a ventilation hole cut in the top. Crickets need to be 'gut-loaded' before they are fed to you chameleon.
Gut load feeders (4 hours before feeding). Fruits and veggies are a simple solution hydration and extra nutrient for most feeders like crickets, dubai, discoides, turkish red runner roaches. All of these should be considered your chameleon’s main staple diets. Other feeders can be offered such as super worms (as a treat) Butter worms (treat) Silkworms and roaches.
Silk worms and horn worms are great snacks. Super worms or meal worms are not recommended. Chameleons absolutely love them. Abused (using them as a staple) is the only problem is if they are fed off without properly gut loading. Your chameleon will refuse any other food. Then it is a matter of time before the refuse these insects. They are poorly nutritional balance in the bran food/bedding they are kept in. It is strongly recommended to feed these off to only feed at the end of a feeding as a snack only. Limit to only 2-3. Wax worms should only be used as snacks also. Meal worms can be fed but are not recommended because their hard shells make them hard to digest.
Nontoxic wild caught bugs can be fed too if you wish; moths, dragonflie, Katydids, cicadas, moths, locust and bees to list a few. Wild caught insects have a risk of carrying parasites that could infect your chameleon. If you do choose to feed wild caught insects, it is important to have regular fecal exams done at your vet to catch a treat the parasites early, before they get out of hand.
Supplement Dusting:
http://www.lllreptile.com/info/library/care-and-husbandry-articles/-/chameleon-care--an-overview/
Dust every two weeks your gut-loaded cricket should be dusted with a calcium dust such as Reptical. Reptical with Vit D is recommended for chameleons that live under artificial UV lights instead of natural sunlight. Also use multivitamin dust such as Herptivite.
1st and 15th of the month Dust with Calcium WITH D3
28th of the month Dust with Multivitamin
Dust with Calcium WITHOUT D3 at all other feedings.
Plain phosphorus free calcium every feeding and Repetitive twice a month.
Panthers in general are sensitive to VitA sources we are able to provide in captivity. Providing a product with preformed VitA will solve this issue. You have to be cautious when using this. Any instance of a preformed vitamin, an animal can overdose leading to some serious health issues.
Gut loaded Feeders:
http://dynomitechameleons.com/
Gutload: Products like bug burger, cricket crack are good options. Here is a list of some ingredients you could use in making your own. Remembering variety is best.
alfalfa (protein, vitamins including K)
kelp (iodine, calcium, magnesium)
Dried, shredded dandelion leaves (calcium, vitamins)
sunflower seeds (B vitamins, folate, potasium, etc)
Sesame seed (calcium, iron, copper, magnesium, maganese, selenium)
Raw pumpkin and squash seeds (Protein, Vitamin K, Iron, Copper, Magnesium)
dried mixed cranberries and blueberries (sweetness, antioxidants)
ground (dead and dry) garry oak and maple tree leaves (tanins, fibre)
roasted seaweed (as used for maki sushi)
hemp seed (Essential Fatty Acids, essential amino acids, protein, fibre)
bee pollen
spirulina
brewers yeast (B vitmains including folic acid, chromium, selenium)
slivered raw almonds (potasium, b vitamins, vitamin E)
organic dried coconut
millet (fiber, niacin, thiamin, riboflavin, lecithin, iron, magnesium)
poppy seeds (calcium)
ginger powder (Vitamin E, B6, Iron, Magnesium, Potassium, Selenium, and Manganese)
Milk thistle (live kidney de tox)
Wolfs berry (Super foods)
Wet gut load (same ingredients as above):
Add Fresh vegetables and fruits. Blend with some water in a blender. Freeze in ice cube trays. Once frozen remove from trays and put in gallon zip lock baggies and freeze.
Health Signs:
http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/healthx/
If a chameleon is not feeling well, he will try to hide it from you. This is a instinct behavior so not to appear vulnerable to predators. This behavior may make it difficult for a keeper to spot a problem before it advances too far. Closely monitor your chameleon and look for any changes in behavior. Here are some basic ‘warning signs’ - A chameleon should be alert during the day. First sign of sickness is finding a chameleon sleeping during the day. - A chameleon should not be on the floor of its cage. - Eye turrets should never appear sunken in. Sunken eyes are a sign of dehydration - A chameleon should have a strong grip, not seem clumsy or fall frequently. Bones in the arms should not be bowed or deformed (possible sign of MBD) -Frequent breathing through the mouth can indicate too high of a temperature. It can also be a sign of a respitory infection if accompanied by ‘spit bubbles’ in the mouth of a crackling breathing sound.
Shedding:
Adult chameleons shed their skin every 4-5 months in bits and pieces. They do this by puffing their body and cracking the dry skin. The entire process might take several months for completion. It is not uncommon for the chameleons to eat their own shed off skin.
Tails:
Unlike many other reptiles, chameleons cannot re-grow their tails.
Vision:
Chameleons are one of the few reptiles that are able to see in color.
Their eyesight being extremely good, they can spot small insects from a 5-10 m distance.
Color:
Contrary to popular belief, the chameleon does not have the innate ability to change colors -- external factors such as temperature, danger, emotions and social signaling are responsible for their color change. The chameleon has a major distribution of melanophores in its body which are responsible for the change in color. A panther chameleon is distinguished by some of the most vibrant colors in all chameleon species. The color patterns of this species changes according to their geographical location. The male panther species are more colorful than a female, and the colors become more pronounced during defensive displays or courtship.
Feet:
Never clip the nails of a chameleon, if kept as a pet.
Tongue:
The tongue of a chameleon is about 1½ times its body length.
Hearing:
Chameleons have 2 small holes for ears, located near the eyes which are not visible to the naked eye. Even though they are almost deaf, they can hear tones and feel vibrations in the air.
Cages:[/B]http://dynomitechameleons.com/
http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/enclosures/
Size: Babies can be housed in smaller enclosures to be upgraded as they grow. A chameleon 1-4 months a 16x15x20 screen is perfect; allows them to hunt efficiently. From 4-8 months keep them in a 18x18x36 and then a minimum cage size of an adult should be 24x24x48' SCREEN.
Décor:
http://dynomitechameleons.com/
http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/enclosures/
The cage should have plenty of foliage for the chameleon to feel secure in. Lots of vines to climb on, as well as horizontal and vertical climbing branches. Artificial or real plants such as pothos, umbrella plant, hibiscus, schefflera, ficus benjimina or corn plant make a wonderful addition to the cage. This also helps keep the humidity up. Substrate should not be used since a chameleon may accidentally ingest the substrate and cause impaction. Replant all pots with plain top soil. If you don’t want any bugs microwave or bake the soil.
Location: High up to simulate tree tops; not at eye sight. Not near any vents, exterior doors, fans or windows.
Lighting:
http://dynomitechameleons.com/
http://www.lllreptile.com/info/library/care-and-husbandry-articles/-/chameleon-care--an-overview/http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/lighting/
Lighting in important to chameleon heath!
Natural sunlight is best; take your chameleon outside as much as possible.
Light #1: UVB florescent light - UVB light is needed to help calcium absorption. It prevents MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) a reptisun 5.0 tubular light is recommended along with reptiglo, zilla tropical linear tube. The light should be positioned above a horizontal branch allowing the chameleon to sit at least 12 inches away from the bulb. The bulb/fixture is to be placed on top of the cage and not inside. The UVB bulb loses its ability to produce beneficial UV light over time during normal use. The UVB bulb must be replaced ONCE A YEAR; some say every 6 months.
Light#2: Basking heat light - This lamp is so your chameleon can regulate his temperature. This is important for proper digestion. Wattage will vary depending on desired basking spot temperature, distance from basking spot and ambient temperature. You will want to place the bulb on one side of the cage; providing a gradient temperature. This gradient temperature should range from areas in the mid-70s to a recommended basking temperature in the high 90s. Basking branched should be underneath the light but not so close that your chameleon can touch the bulb and burn himself. The chameleon will bask under the light when needed to warm up and move to cooler parts of the cage when he wants to cool down. Chameleons do best with a slight drop in temperature at night. There is no need for any other type of nighttime lighting or heater. Chameleons need sleep at night so no lights. Lights should come on it the morning and turn off when the sun goes down in the evening.
Other lights: If you have live plants in the cage. You will want to put a 6800K plant light over the cage as well. Also a house hold bulb; or is that considered the basking light?
Temperatures:
Basking temp 90* ambient temps 72* measure by digital gauges. A 10-15 degree night time drop in temps is great. Not recommended to go below 50*. If temps get to low at night use a ceramic heat emitter. Absolutely no light at night.
Humidity:
http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/water/
Fluctuating humidity is best. 50-80% is ideal.
Hydration: [/B]http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/water/
Automated systems like a mist king, aquazamp, monsoon are great. Misting sessions should consist of 2-5 minutes/2-3 times a day. Another great addition is a dripper. It is very important that your cage dries out between watering sessions. Chameleons DON'T drink from a dish! In the wild, chameleons would drink dew or rain off the leaves. Completely wet all the leaves in the enclosure. Your chameleon will lick the running water and the water collecting on the leaves. Is it true that all the water should be treated with a reptile conditioner to remove harmful chlorine?
Food:
http://dynomitechameleons.com/
http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/food/
A growing baby veiled or panther should eat 7 to 10 crickets a day. Once they reach adult hood they should eat about 5 crickets every day or every other day if obesity becomes an issue. Crickets can be kept in a tote bin with a ventilation hole cut in the top. Crickets need to be 'gut-loaded' before they are fed to you chameleon.
Gut load feeders (4 hours before feeding). Fruits and veggies are a simple solution hydration and extra nutrient for most feeders like crickets, dubai, discoides, turkish red runner roaches. All of these should be considered your chameleon’s main staple diets. Other feeders can be offered such as super worms (as a treat) Butter worms (treat) Silkworms and roaches.
Silk worms and horn worms are great snacks. Super worms or meal worms are not recommended. Chameleons absolutely love them. Abused (using them as a staple) is the only problem is if they are fed off without properly gut loading. Your chameleon will refuse any other food. Then it is a matter of time before the refuse these insects. They are poorly nutritional balance in the bran food/bedding they are kept in. It is strongly recommended to feed these off to only feed at the end of a feeding as a snack only. Limit to only 2-3. Wax worms should only be used as snacks also. Meal worms can be fed but are not recommended because their hard shells make them hard to digest.
Nontoxic wild caught bugs can be fed too if you wish; moths, dragonflie, Katydids, cicadas, moths, locust and bees to list a few. Wild caught insects have a risk of carrying parasites that could infect your chameleon. If you do choose to feed wild caught insects, it is important to have regular fecal exams done at your vet to catch a treat the parasites early, before they get out of hand.
Supplement Dusting:
http://www.lllreptile.com/info/library/care-and-husbandry-articles/-/chameleon-care--an-overview/
Dust every two weeks your gut-loaded cricket should be dusted with a calcium dust such as Reptical. Reptical with Vit D is recommended for chameleons that live under artificial UV lights instead of natural sunlight. Also use multivitamin dust such as Herptivite.
1st and 15th of the month Dust with Calcium WITH D3
28th of the month Dust with Multivitamin
Dust with Calcium WITHOUT D3 at all other feedings.
Plain phosphorus free calcium every feeding and Repetitive twice a month.
Panthers in general are sensitive to VitA sources we are able to provide in captivity. Providing a product with preformed VitA will solve this issue. You have to be cautious when using this. Any instance of a preformed vitamin, an animal can overdose leading to some serious health issues.
Gut loaded Feeders:
http://dynomitechameleons.com/
Gutload: Products like bug burger, cricket crack are good options. Here is a list of some ingredients you could use in making your own. Remembering variety is best.
alfalfa (protein, vitamins including K)
kelp (iodine, calcium, magnesium)
Dried, shredded dandelion leaves (calcium, vitamins)
sunflower seeds (B vitamins, folate, potasium, etc)
Sesame seed (calcium, iron, copper, magnesium, maganese, selenium)
Raw pumpkin and squash seeds (Protein, Vitamin K, Iron, Copper, Magnesium)
dried mixed cranberries and blueberries (sweetness, antioxidants)
ground (dead and dry) garry oak and maple tree leaves (tanins, fibre)
roasted seaweed (as used for maki sushi)
hemp seed (Essential Fatty Acids, essential amino acids, protein, fibre)
bee pollen
spirulina
brewers yeast (B vitmains including folic acid, chromium, selenium)
slivered raw almonds (potasium, b vitamins, vitamin E)
organic dried coconut
millet (fiber, niacin, thiamin, riboflavin, lecithin, iron, magnesium)
poppy seeds (calcium)
ginger powder (Vitamin E, B6, Iron, Magnesium, Potassium, Selenium, and Manganese)
Milk thistle (live kidney de tox)
Wolfs berry (Super foods)
Wet gut load (same ingredients as above):
Add Fresh vegetables and fruits. Blend with some water in a blender. Freeze in ice cube trays. Once frozen remove from trays and put in gallon zip lock baggies and freeze.
Health Signs:
http://www.chameleonforums.com/care/healthx/
If a chameleon is not feeling well, he will try to hide it from you. This is a instinct behavior so not to appear vulnerable to predators. This behavior may make it difficult for a keeper to spot a problem before it advances too far. Closely monitor your chameleon and look for any changes in behavior. Here are some basic ‘warning signs’ - A chameleon should be alert during the day. First sign of sickness is finding a chameleon sleeping during the day. - A chameleon should not be on the floor of its cage. - Eye turrets should never appear sunken in. Sunken eyes are a sign of dehydration - A chameleon should have a strong grip, not seem clumsy or fall frequently. Bones in the arms should not be bowed or deformed (possible sign of MBD) -Frequent breathing through the mouth can indicate too high of a temperature. It can also be a sign of a respitory infection if accompanied by ‘spit bubbles’ in the mouth of a crackling breathing sound.
Shedding:
Adult chameleons shed their skin every 4-5 months in bits and pieces. They do this by puffing their body and cracking the dry skin. The entire process might take several months for completion. It is not uncommon for the chameleons to eat their own shed off skin.
Tails:
Unlike many other reptiles, chameleons cannot re-grow their tails.
Vision:
Chameleons are one of the few reptiles that are able to see in color.
Their eyesight being extremely good, they can spot small insects from a 5-10 m distance.
Color:
Contrary to popular belief, the chameleon does not have the innate ability to change colors -- external factors such as temperature, danger, emotions and social signaling are responsible for their color change. The chameleon has a major distribution of melanophores in its body which are responsible for the change in color. A panther chameleon is distinguished by some of the most vibrant colors in all chameleon species. The color patterns of this species changes according to their geographical location. The male panther species are more colorful than a female, and the colors become more pronounced during defensive displays or courtship.
Feet:
Never clip the nails of a chameleon, if kept as a pet.
Tongue:
The tongue of a chameleon is about 1½ times its body length.
Hearing:
Chameleons have 2 small holes for ears, located near the eyes which are not visible to the naked eye. Even though they are almost deaf, they can hear tones and feel vibrations in the air.
