Worms?

i think if you really research it, and make sure dietary needs
are met it is possible.
the great thing in this forum is there will likely be differing opinions.
i say
take them all in and use them to make an informed decision.
 
Can anyone by chance tell me the best variety of worms i should use for an all worm diet? and also with a diet of that much variation do i feed a different worm everyday or should i give him a variety of worms?
 
I know silkworms are very nutritious, Phoenix worms are high in calcium, wax worms have a high fat content. I'm sure you can pull up past threads and get more details ; )
 
i haven't tried them yet but red wigglers are real easy to keep and gut load.
i used them when i had discus fish in a prior life ;)

i am going to try them soon, uncle jim's worm farm is a good source.
 
I think it would be possible to make an all worm an almost all worm diet that would be healthy. I don't see why you would want to though. The worms mentioned are all good feeders but waxworms as mentioned should be fed only a couple of times a week maximum due to their high fat content (chams do love 'em though, can't deny that...).
Superworms would be a vital addition as they have plenty of chitin, but if you use a lot of superworms (also quite high fat) it would be better I think to give no waxworms.
The most often used staple foods are cricket and roach for good reason(s). Cheap, easy to keep and breed, easy to gutload with a variety of good stuff......
Here is a great list of other feeders - https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/74-feeders.html
 
Thanks for the feedback and the reason I want to is because it is the most convenient thing for me to keep in my house.
 
I really don't see how you can get around using either crickets or roaches without having a negative impact on your chameleon's health. The main problem is that in general worms do not gutload as well as crix or dubia. Gutloading is the primary source of an insect's nutrition.

Silkworms and phoenix worms are the most nutritious worms and can both be gutloaded, but they are pricy.

Can I ask why crickets are inconvenient? If it is the smell, then a well ventilated container (mesh on all sides and top) really goes a long way to preventing the bad odor.
 
No it's not the smell that can be easily overcome. It's the noise I don't have any where else to keep the crickets but In my bedroom and they keep me up all night.

It's really bad when I have crickets I generally get 3-4 hours of sleep a night.

And the silkworms and what not i have no problem affording. Plus the price is worth the sleep! : )
 
purplebiotch said:
No it's not the smell that can be easily overcome. It's the noise I don't have any where else to keep the crickets but In my bedroom and they keep me up all night.

It's really bad when I have crickets I generally get 3-4 hours of sleep a night.

And the silkworms and what not i have no problem affording. Plus the price is worth the sleep! : )
Click to expand...

Roaches make no noise. Well, very little. A bit of scuffling. Not like cricket chirping. I find it quite soothing now but I have been asked to move them downstairs away from people trying to sleep......no-one asks for the roaches to move (if they are covered with a towel you would hardly know they were there). Problem solved :)
 
Hmm I hadn't really thought of that but it seems to me that roaches can escape pretty easily can't they? I mean most of them can fly and even though finials don't technically fly they can still "hover"
Has anyone ever had problems with them escaping?
 
purplebiotch said:
Hmm I hadn't really thought of that but it seems to me that roaches can escape pretty easily can't they? I mean most of them can fly and even though finials don't technically fly they can still "hover"
Has anyone ever had problems with them escaping?
Click to expand...

With Dubia (a popular species of roach. The only one I've used) The males have wings, but I never seen them actually use them for anything. Roaches can escape about as easily as crickets I reckon. Dubia are tropical roaches and less likely to survive in the home.
I can almost guarantee you won't get an infestation. If you tip your whole box out though and spill them under your bed then it might be 'interesting' for a while.........
 
Dubia and discoids do not fly, climb smooth surfaces, smell, or make any noise other than their feet moving against the tub (which is very quiet anyways.) They are tropical and are unlikely to breed in your home. Mine never live for more than a week or so when they escape because they dry out from the lack of humidity and heat. If you are careful they will probably never escape. All you need is a smooth enclosure that they cannot climb, a way to feed them to the animals that does not allow them to escape (hand feeding or cup/tub feeding,) and make sure you never drop them.

edit: If you are concerned about any roaches escaping, do not get a flying variety or one that can climb. Particularly stay away from hissers. Those things live forever in my house when they escape.

Also, it would be possible, but not a good idea to use an all worm diet. The chameleons need a source of chitin for roughage in their diets, and the only worms suitable for this are superworms and mealworms. Mealworms are more for treats because of their very high fat content. Supers, while less fatty, are still a bit too fatty to use excessively. Plus, it really is not convenient for you to only keep worms. Meal/superworms and butterworms last a long time, but hornworms and silkworms do not last very long and are quite expensive unless you breed them yourself, which is time consuming.
 
I,ve heard Hornworms are the healthiest but they only eat a certain diet which would not accomplish the purpose of gutloading.
 
purplebiotch said:
Is it ok to feed a Cham a variety worms only (no crickets, roaches, etc.)? If he will eat them willingly.
Click to expand...

Forgive me if you've already gotten enough of an answer. I've not read all the posts in this thread.

YES, you could feed a chameleon a variety of larva/worms only (if it will accept them) and have the chameleon be healthy, IMHO.
But it takes effort.
You'd almost have to include silkworms that are gutloaded on a VARIETY of food, not just mulbery, as one of the primary feeders. But because those are soft bodied, you need to ensure some chinton /roughage is added: enter superworms. Also ensure these are gutloaded well, and dont use a lot of them. Add to these two some gutlaoded butterworms, gutloaded pheonix worms (soldier fly maggots) and a few gutloaded hornworms now and then, along with Leaf rollers and/or other larva you might have access to as well.

Dont believe anyone who says any of the above larva are not easily gutloaded - they ALL are, on a variety of things. But its not quite as easy as crickets or roaches! and gutloading, IMHO, is key.

Gutloading info:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blo...just-crickets-roaches-gutload-everything.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html

HOWEVER, I'd suggest included crickets and roaches and terrestrial isopods, and beetles, etc in addition to larva.
 
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DRuttle said:
I,ve heard Hornworms are the healthiest but they only eat a certain diet which would not accomplish the purpose of gutloading.
Click to expand...

Not true.

they'll eat quite a few things, including:
grape vine leaves (a good gutload option).
steamed and cooled sweet potatoe
butternut squash

You can make a paste (blender) from dandelion, grape vine leaves, arugula, mustard greens, basil, some sweet potatoe, some carrot, a little wheat germ, a dash of spirulina and a little brewers yeast.
 
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