Why wont my baby cham eat?

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Jessica1, Feb 11, 2018.

  1. Jessica1

    Jessica1 New Member

    Hi I just got my new baby cham yesterday and this morning I tried to feed him he didn't seel interested so at like 12:00 I put the crickets back into his cage and he still hasn't touched them (btw the crickets are in a small container and he's 3 months old)
  2. Jessica1

    Jessica1 New Member

    The crickets are also 1/2 of a quarter is that to big
  3. If you are going to try and feed them crickets they have be just hatched crickets. You can get a cricket farm going you just need a 1000 adult crickets and organic soil/separate containers then you don’t have to buy them anymore if you want more information message me...but just so you know crickets are not the best feeder
  4. @Jessica1 Do you have a picture so it gives everyone an idea it’s size?
  5. Jessica1

    Jessica1 New Member

  6. kinyonga

    kinyonga Chameleon Enthusiast

    IMHO crickets are a good feeder because they are easily attained, easy to feed/gutload and easy to keep alive. That doesn't mean that you should only use crickets...small superworms, fruit flies, BSFL, silkworms are all good choices too. And there are more options when the chameleon grows.
    I can't be sure if the ones in the dish are small enough or not...there's nothing to gauge it by.

    What's the basking temperature in your cage?
    Syreptyon likes this.
  7. Jessica1

    Jessica1 New Member

  8. I meant a picture of your chameleon...what species do you have?
  9. Jessica1

    Jessica1 New Member

    Hey is a male Veiled Chameleon
  10. Syreptyon

    Syreptyon Avid Member

    With all due respect to the previous poster, you will likely not want to listen to the advice about breeding your own crickets. It is notoriously inconvenient, difficult, and very few people actually breed their own. It's totally unnecessary and almost always easier to just order them. A picture of your chameleon would be great! Also it's enclosure please :)
    Graves923 likes this.
  11. Syreptyon

    Syreptyon Avid Member

    Are you free ranging the crickets or cup feeding them?
  12. Jessica1

    Jessica1 New Member

    Cup feeding/free ranging
  13. Jessica1

    Jessica1 New Member

    I alreay put a photo of my cham
  14. Graves923

    Graves923 Avid Member

    Your enclosure looks like it needs a bit more foliage. Adding foliage creates places for the chameleon to hide and overall make him feel safe.

    They also tend to be very shy when in a new home. Try putting the food in there and leaving the room for a while.

    As for feeder size, make sure the crickets are no longer than the space between your chameleons eyes.

    Crickets, in my opinion, are a great staple feeder but I would not breed them. They are notoriuously smelly when kept in large numbers or poorly ventilated containers
    Jessica1 and Syreptyon like this.
  15. Dürja

    Dürja New Member

    I wouldn't worry just yet. These animals are incredibly timid and shy by nature, as such they stress very easily. Moving into a whole new world is a very stressful and tolling experience and it's not at all uncommon for them to go off food for a few days. Make sure you have the proper lighting (heat and linear UVB), and plenty of foliage (it looks like you might be a bit on the sparse side) and then just give the little one a solid 48 hours or more to actually settle in.
  16. Do you keep it indoors or outside? If you keep in a cooler area you it might not be getting warm enough. I keep mine out in the garage due to the humidity being higher. Are you misting the chameleon before feeding the reason I’m asking is it needs to be hidrated to lube up the tongue so it can eat. The chameleon might be stressed out because of the environment being new surroundings. What type of lightning are you using? I personally free range my feeders because it allows the chameleon to hunt for its food like it does in the wild. Give it time and your chameleon should eat. How many times are you misting a day. They typically usually during the early daytime but this isn’t always the case. I would leave 5-7 feeders in the enclosure so your chameleon can eat when it wants to until you see a regular pattern in eating but I would make sure you gutload your feeders with kale and greens high in protein and vitamins. I would dust the feeders as well because in Veiled chameleons seem from what I’ve picked up on here have a tendency to get metabolic bone disease easier but not just this particular species all species. A good diet and variations of feeders is a good practice. Dubia roaches are a good feeder but in some places can be kind of pricey. If you want to try and breed dubia roaches they are easy to breed and don’t smell..a male has wings and a female does not. Just use a container with good air flow like a critter keeper would work if you want try this and they reproduce quickly.

    Back to the lightning this is how a chameleon uses the light to regulate its vitamin D3 so it is very important correct lighting is provided this can be done with a zoomed Reptisun 5.0/Reptisun 10.0/ powersun...exoterra makes bulbs as well...but always keep in mind if using a hotter bulb it depends on the temperature of where you keep your chameleon (I emphasize the regular temperature without a light when saying this) some bulbs can exceed the desired heat emmision. What lighting are you currently using? I would suggest replacing the light bulbs every 6 months because the benefit of uvb will stop giving out uvb even if the bulb is still working. A basting light should be used as well where your chameleon usually basts. But find one that stays consistent. You might be able to use a 50-75 watt basting bulb but you’ll need to figure out if it will go over the required temperature. And you should monitor the temperatures when trying new bulbs.

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