adam and rocky
New Member
where can i buy a zoomed reptisun 10.0 light and fixture? I need it quick!
Where can i buy
- Thread starter adam and rocky
- Start date
lele
Avid Member
www.lllreptile.com probably has the best current prices ($17.99 no matter size) and they are quick on shipping, maybe you can even call it in.
What is the problem/hurry? I mean you might find one at a chain pet store but you will easily pay 3x an online price (even with shipping). Are you sure you need a 10.0? It is not so much that they are stringer, but that they UVB goes deeper(farther) than the 5.0 (12" vs. 20")
What is the problem/hurry? I mean you might find one at a chain pet store but you will easily pay 3x an online price (even with shipping). Are you sure you need a 10.0? It is not so much that they are stringer, but that they UVB goes deeper(farther) than the 5.0 (12" vs. 20")
Marc10edora
Avid Member
yep, lll reptile has them. I bought one last week and it got here pretty fast. I searched all over town for one, but no stores were selling them. Why does every pet store sell repti-glo and no other uvb light? Reptisun is way better.
adam and rocky
New Member
fixture
im ordering the bulb right now, but what about the fixture? and ive have also noticed the repti-glo bullcrap in all these pet stores. the hurry is that my cham has been down the past few days and have to think its the light, because everything else is set up perfect.
im ordering the bulb right now, but what about the fixture? and ive have also noticed the repti-glo bullcrap in all these pet stores. the hurry is that my cham has been down the past few days and have to think its the light, because everything else is set up perfect.
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adam and rocky
New Member
would this be and appropiate fixture for a 24' bulb
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/light-fixtures/-/30-fluorescent-hood-fixture/
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/light-fixtures/-/30-fluorescent-hood-fixture/
lele
Avid Member
yes, that size is fine. BUT...I just looked over some of your recent post and you said you had a Mercury Vapor bulb (posted 5/1). Sounds like you may be jumping around a bit on figuring out what the problem is. you say everything is "perfect" and it may seem to be but let me suggest you answer the following questions (completely - brands, too) and if you can, post photos of cham and set up. You said
1. Cage type: What size and type of cage (screen, glass, etc.)?
2. Temperatures: What is the basking temperature? How do you measure the temperature in your setup? What is the temperature in the warmest spot? The coolest spot? At night? During the day? You should measure the temperature of the chameleons' skin or the surface of its current branch to get a more accurate reading. Do you leave any heat on at night? What is the temperature in the room at night?
3. Lighting: What brand is your UVB light? How long have you been using it? How long are your lights on each day? Do you leave any lights on at night? Where are the lights? on top?
4. Humidity: Do you have a humidity gauge? What is the range of relative humidity (RH) from lowest to highest? How long does it take to go from high to low? Do you use a humidifier? Do you live in the north or south (or other)?
5. Water: Have you observed your chameleon drinking? How often do you mist? Do you have a dripper?
6. Food: Have you observed your chameleon eating? What is the chameleon's diet? Where do you get your live feeder prey? What are you feeding the feeders? Fresh veggies? Gut load? If you use a commercial gut load what is the brand? If you make your own what are the ingredients?
7. Supplements: What type of supplement(s) do you use? Brand name(s)? How often do you use supplements?
8. Plants & branches: What plants do you have? Are your plants alive or fake? Do the plants provide lots of coverage where the chameleon will feel safe? Can you see your chameleon most of the time or can it hide from your view?
9. Chameleon facts: How old is the chameleon? Do you know if it is wild caught or captive born? Did you get the chameleon at a show? Breeder?
10. Handling: Do you handle your chameleon? How often and how long? What is its reaction to you? Is the cage in a quiet part of the house or is it in a busy or noisy area? Any big stereo speakers near the cage? Is your chameleon alone in the cage? Can your chameleon see any other herps or pets from the cage?
11. Veterinarians: Do you have a veterinarian who KNOWS chameleons?
One last thing: As great as everyone is here (and they are), if there is a medical problem there is no substitute for a trip to the veterinarian.
what do you mean "down"???
1. Cage type: What size and type of cage (screen, glass, etc.)?
2. Temperatures: What is the basking temperature? How do you measure the temperature in your setup? What is the temperature in the warmest spot? The coolest spot? At night? During the day? You should measure the temperature of the chameleons' skin or the surface of its current branch to get a more accurate reading. Do you leave any heat on at night? What is the temperature in the room at night?
3. Lighting: What brand is your UVB light? How long have you been using it? How long are your lights on each day? Do you leave any lights on at night? Where are the lights? on top?
4. Humidity: Do you have a humidity gauge? What is the range of relative humidity (RH) from lowest to highest? How long does it take to go from high to low? Do you use a humidifier? Do you live in the north or south (or other)?
5. Water: Have you observed your chameleon drinking? How often do you mist? Do you have a dripper?
6. Food: Have you observed your chameleon eating? What is the chameleon's diet? Where do you get your live feeder prey? What are you feeding the feeders? Fresh veggies? Gut load? If you use a commercial gut load what is the brand? If you make your own what are the ingredients?
7. Supplements: What type of supplement(s) do you use? Brand name(s)? How often do you use supplements?
8. Plants & branches: What plants do you have? Are your plants alive or fake? Do the plants provide lots of coverage where the chameleon will feel safe? Can you see your chameleon most of the time or can it hide from your view?
9. Chameleon facts: How old is the chameleon? Do you know if it is wild caught or captive born? Did you get the chameleon at a show? Breeder?
10. Handling: Do you handle your chameleon? How often and how long? What is its reaction to you? Is the cage in a quiet part of the house or is it in a busy or noisy area? Any big stereo speakers near the cage? Is your chameleon alone in the cage? Can your chameleon see any other herps or pets from the cage?
11. Veterinarians: Do you have a veterinarian who KNOWS chameleons?
One last thing: As great as everyone is here (and they are), if there is a medical problem there is no substitute for a trip to the veterinarian.
adam and rocky
New Member
all about my setup and my cham
1. Cage type: I have a 2' long 2' wide and 4'tall all mesh with a plastic slide out bottom.
2. Temperatures: 90-100 basking temperature. I use a temperature guage. 100 temperature in the warmest spot? 65 is the coldest spot? lows of 60 to 80s At night? top around 85-90 mid cage is 70-80 and 65 at the bottom? I have a heat emitter at night, the room temp is 70.
3. Lighting: zoomed powersun uv, tis about a month old light, both the heat and light are sitting on top. lights from 9am to 7pm
4. Humidity: i have a humidity gauge. i live in the bay area. humidity is about 40 and rises to 70 when i mist.
5. Water: I have a drop system and he drinks from that, he also drinks from my misting bottle after i mist. he doesnt like to be misted.
6. Food: He has been eating less and less. He doesnt seem to have that big of an apetite. flukers gut load and water for the crickets, and oatmeal for the waxworms. silkies. i get it from a pet shop. what fresh veggies and other tings can i gutlead any feeder with? what do you use as feeders and gutlaod?
7. Supplements: I dust the crickets with calcium dust.
8. Plants & branches: I have a real ficus and a money tree. and a bunch of fake and real vines. the plants do provide coverage, but not enough in my opinion. What tall strong plants do you use? i can see it almost all the time, his cage is elevated 3 feet from the ground, his bask and favorite branch are above eye level.
9. Chameleon facts: 4 month old Veiled. captive born by breeder. i got it at 2 months.
10. Handling: i handle my cham once a day, sometimes hes afriad when i first get him, but sometimes hell walk onto my hand, after i take him out hes happy, really happy outside but i cant wlways take him outside. i take him out for usually 30 minutes to and hour if hes just perching somewhere. the cage is in a room with no noise in the room, some noise outside. the cham is alone in the cage but sometimes a cat is in the room.
11. Veterinarians: I have a vet who knows Chams and he said he is healthy but a little bit thin. Told me to get a Mercury Vapor bulb and try to feed different things. What type of feeders do u suggest?
Thanks for all the help in trying to make sure my cham is healthy, I really appreciate it!
-Adam
1. Cage type: I have a 2' long 2' wide and 4'tall all mesh with a plastic slide out bottom.
2. Temperatures: 90-100 basking temperature. I use a temperature guage. 100 temperature in the warmest spot? 65 is the coldest spot? lows of 60 to 80s At night? top around 85-90 mid cage is 70-80 and 65 at the bottom? I have a heat emitter at night, the room temp is 70.
3. Lighting: zoomed powersun uv, tis about a month old light, both the heat and light are sitting on top. lights from 9am to 7pm
4. Humidity: i have a humidity gauge. i live in the bay area. humidity is about 40 and rises to 70 when i mist.
5. Water: I have a drop system and he drinks from that, he also drinks from my misting bottle after i mist. he doesnt like to be misted.
6. Food: He has been eating less and less. He doesnt seem to have that big of an apetite. flukers gut load and water for the crickets, and oatmeal for the waxworms. silkies. i get it from a pet shop. what fresh veggies and other tings can i gutlead any feeder with? what do you use as feeders and gutlaod?
7. Supplements: I dust the crickets with calcium dust.
8. Plants & branches: I have a real ficus and a money tree. and a bunch of fake and real vines. the plants do provide coverage, but not enough in my opinion. What tall strong plants do you use? i can see it almost all the time, his cage is elevated 3 feet from the ground, his bask and favorite branch are above eye level.
9. Chameleon facts: 4 month old Veiled. captive born by breeder. i got it at 2 months.
10. Handling: i handle my cham once a day, sometimes hes afriad when i first get him, but sometimes hell walk onto my hand, after i take him out hes happy, really happy outside but i cant wlways take him outside. i take him out for usually 30 minutes to and hour if hes just perching somewhere. the cage is in a room with no noise in the room, some noise outside. the cham is alone in the cage but sometimes a cat is in the room.
11. Veterinarians: I have a vet who knows Chams and he said he is healthy but a little bit thin. Told me to get a Mercury Vapor bulb and try to feed different things. What type of feeders do u suggest?
Thanks for all the help in trying to make sure my cham is healthy, I really appreciate it!
-Adam
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Jordan
New Member
I would suggest picking up some more supplements.
I use Rep-Cal along with many other memebers on this forum. I think all three of these types of supplements should be used.
Phosphorus-Free Calcium with vitamin D3
Calcium: no phosphorus or D3
A multivitamin
The age and species of your chameleon can help determine what kind of regiment you want to use these in. What species and age (size will help too) is your chameleon?
I use Rep-Cal along with many other memebers on this forum. I think all three of these types of supplements should be used.
Phosphorus-Free Calcium with vitamin D3
Calcium: no phosphorus or D3
A multivitamin
The age and species of your chameleon can help determine what kind of regiment you want to use these in. What species and age (size will help too) is your chameleon?
Marc10edora
Avid Member
For the fixture, you can just use any standard florescent fixture that can be found at wal mart or home depot. Don't get the ones that they sale in pet stores. They are way over priced. One at walmart will go for $17.
You said..."I have a heat emitter at night, the room temp is 70"...if the room temperature is 70 then are you keeping the cage warmer by using the heat emitter? Veiled chameleons can be even a few degrees cooler than 70 at night without a problem. Its supposed to be good for them.
You said..."zoomed powersun uv, tis about a month old light, both the heat and light are sitting on top. lights from 9am to 7pm"...I have no idea how good/bad a zoomed powersun is...I use Repti-sun 5.0's and have for years. I've been happy with it so I've never changed. I have found that changing to different bulbs affects the balance of other things. UVB from tube lights or from direct sunlight allows the chameleon to produce D3 and thus use the calcium in its diet. The UVB from either should not pass through glass or plastic.
You said..."He has been eating less and less. He doesnt seem to have that big of an apetite"...what size crickets are you feeding him? As he becomes an adult he would cut down a bit on the amount he eats and the size of the crickets/insects would become larger...but if he's losing weight, then I would take him to a vet. There is something wrong if that is happening.
You said you use..."flukers gut load and water for the crickets, and oatmeal for the waxworms. silkies"...I feed/gutload crickets with greens (dandelion, kale, collards, endive, ROMAINE lettuce, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, white potato, etc.). I don't use commercial products because I find they can throw off the balance I have going doing things the way I do. By "balance" I'm concerned mostly with the calcium/phosphorous, vitamin A and vitamin D3. Silkies should be fed mulberry leaves or the powder that is made for them. Waxworms...here is a site that talks about them...
http://adcham.com/html/insects/insects-waxworm-rearing.html
You can feed him small superworms, and butterworms in addition to the crickets and waxworms. BTW...waxworms are fatty so don't overdo them!
You said..."I dust the crickets with calcium dust."...I dust at most feedings with a phosphorous-free calcium powder. Most insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phos. so this helps to compensate for it. I also dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A since beta carotene can't build up in the system. Its controversial whether chameleons can convert beta carotene to vitamin A...so some people give the chameleons a little preformed vitamin A...but you have to be very careful with this since it can build up in the system. Excess preformed vitamin A can prevent vitamin D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD. Scince my chameleons only get artificial UVB, I dust with a calcium/D3 powder twice a month lightly. D3 from supplements can build up in the system, so don't overdo it.
You said you have a money tree in the cage...I'm not familiar with that. It should be fine as long as its non-toxic and has been well washed (both sides of the leaves).
Does your chameleon show any signs of MBD? Crooked limbs (bowed or that appear to have an extra joint in the limb), can't shoot his tongue out all the way, flexible jaw or casque, grasping his own limbs with other limbs, inablility to lift its body off the branches, etc.?
Do you have a substrate? Is he pooping?
Is he sleeping during the day?
You said..."zoomed powersun uv, tis about a month old light, both the heat and light are sitting on top. lights from 9am to 7pm"...I have no idea how good/bad a zoomed powersun is...I use Repti-sun 5.0's and have for years. I've been happy with it so I've never changed. I have found that changing to different bulbs affects the balance of other things. UVB from tube lights or from direct sunlight allows the chameleon to produce D3 and thus use the calcium in its diet. The UVB from either should not pass through glass or plastic.
You said..."He has been eating less and less. He doesnt seem to have that big of an apetite"...what size crickets are you feeding him? As he becomes an adult he would cut down a bit on the amount he eats and the size of the crickets/insects would become larger...but if he's losing weight, then I would take him to a vet. There is something wrong if that is happening.
You said you use..."flukers gut load and water for the crickets, and oatmeal for the waxworms. silkies"...I feed/gutload crickets with greens (dandelion, kale, collards, endive, ROMAINE lettuce, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, white potato, etc.). I don't use commercial products because I find they can throw off the balance I have going doing things the way I do. By "balance" I'm concerned mostly with the calcium/phosphorous, vitamin A and vitamin D3. Silkies should be fed mulberry leaves or the powder that is made for them. Waxworms...here is a site that talks about them...
http://adcham.com/html/insects/insects-waxworm-rearing.html
You can feed him small superworms, and butterworms in addition to the crickets and waxworms. BTW...waxworms are fatty so don't overdo them!
You said..."I dust the crickets with calcium dust."...I dust at most feedings with a phosphorous-free calcium powder. Most insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phos. so this helps to compensate for it. I also dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A since beta carotene can't build up in the system. Its controversial whether chameleons can convert beta carotene to vitamin A...so some people give the chameleons a little preformed vitamin A...but you have to be very careful with this since it can build up in the system. Excess preformed vitamin A can prevent vitamin D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD. Scince my chameleons only get artificial UVB, I dust with a calcium/D3 powder twice a month lightly. D3 from supplements can build up in the system, so don't overdo it.
You said you have a money tree in the cage...I'm not familiar with that. It should be fine as long as its non-toxic and has been well washed (both sides of the leaves).
Does your chameleon show any signs of MBD? Crooked limbs (bowed or that appear to have an extra joint in the limb), can't shoot his tongue out all the way, flexible jaw or casque, grasping his own limbs with other limbs, inablility to lift its body off the branches, etc.?
Do you have a substrate? Is he pooping?
Is he sleeping during the day?
Will Hayward
New Member
They aren't overpriced much at all. It's the ceramic fixture (reptile brands) that you need to take prolonged daily used, high wattages, and the intense constant heat. You risk melting, fires, short circuits, danger to the animal and your home and family.
With the cheap home brands... anything over a 50W, send up a flag of caution. They are not built for long term use and most will say "Max 60Ws" or similar.
----------------------
And just now after reading this, I see you were commenting on Florescent fixtures and I have completely gone off base thinking you meant incandescent. Well, carry on and Ill leave this up as a warning regardless.
Home Depot Carries a 4' double tube T10-T12 fixture for only $14 Canadian (~$12 USD). These are great if you have a couple cages, or one that is 4' long.
adam and rocky
New Member
a little more info
where can i get :
Phosphorus-Free Calcium with vitamin D3
Calcium: no phosphorus or D3
A multivitamin
and what should my schedule be for dusting?
I Moved his cage up 3 feet yesterday, and today he was alot more active. yesterday i also took him outside for about and hour and he loved it. I feed him 4week old crickets. he is a 4month old veiled. he also ate 2 silkies today. none the less i want to make sure he is getting a balanced diet. i will start immediately gutlaoding the crickets with "dandelion, kale, collards, endive, ROMAINE lettuce, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, white potato, "
I have ordered the reptisun 10.0 for lighting
I would like to find a taller plant that could provide him with more coverage, any ideas?
I took him in last week and the doc said there where no signs of anything wrong other than a littlebit skinny.
He is pooping, and he does not sleep during the day
Thank you all so much
-Adam
where can i get :
Phosphorus-Free Calcium with vitamin D3
Calcium: no phosphorus or D3
A multivitamin
and what should my schedule be for dusting?
I Moved his cage up 3 feet yesterday, and today he was alot more active. yesterday i also took him outside for about and hour and he loved it. I feed him 4week old crickets. he is a 4month old veiled. he also ate 2 silkies today. none the less i want to make sure he is getting a balanced diet. i will start immediately gutlaoding the crickets with "dandelion, kale, collards, endive, ROMAINE lettuce, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, white potato, "
I have ordered the reptisun 10.0 for lighting
I would like to find a taller plant that could provide him with more coverage, any ideas?
I took him in last week and the doc said there where no signs of anything wrong other than a littlebit skinny.
He is pooping, and he does not sleep during the day
Thank you all so much
-Adam
You asked..."where can i get : Phosphorus-Free Calcium with vitamin D3
Calcium: no phosphorus or D3 A multivitamin"...I don't know where you live. I just go to the petstores or the reptile shows to get what I need.
If you are in the States, Canada or Japan...try this...
http://www.repcal.com/retlrs.htm
or try this....
http://www.mulberryfarms.com/suppl.htm
You said..."and what should my schedule be for dusting?"...from my post (above)..."I dust at most feedings with a phosphorous-free calcium powder. Most insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phos. so this helps to compensate for it. I also dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A since beta carotene can't build up in the system. Its controversial whether chameleons can convert beta carotene to vitamin A...so some people give the chameleons a little preformed vitamin A...but you have to be very careful with this since it can build up in the system. Excess preformed vitamin A can prevent vitamin D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD. Scince my chameleons only get artificial UVB, I dust with a calcium/D3 powder twice a month lightly. D3 from supplements can build up in the system, so don't overdo it."
You said..."He is pooping, and he does not sleep during the day"...that's good.
I hope you can figure out what the problem is and all will be well with him soon.
Calcium: no phosphorus or D3 A multivitamin"...I don't know where you live. I just go to the petstores or the reptile shows to get what I need.
If you are in the States, Canada or Japan...try this...
http://www.repcal.com/retlrs.htm
or try this....
http://www.mulberryfarms.com/suppl.htm
You said..."and what should my schedule be for dusting?"...from my post (above)..."I dust at most feedings with a phosphorous-free calcium powder. Most insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phos. so this helps to compensate for it. I also dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A since beta carotene can't build up in the system. Its controversial whether chameleons can convert beta carotene to vitamin A...so some people give the chameleons a little preformed vitamin A...but you have to be very careful with this since it can build up in the system. Excess preformed vitamin A can prevent vitamin D3 from doing its job and lead to MBD. Scince my chameleons only get artificial UVB, I dust with a calcium/D3 powder twice a month lightly. D3 from supplements can build up in the system, so don't overdo it."
You said..."He is pooping, and he does not sleep during the day"...that's good.
I hope you can figure out what the problem is and all will be well with him soon.