What fixture should I get

I agree with bbyoda in post #13.

If any help, mine (male panther age ~13 months) eats 7 LG crix every other day or 3-4 every day. Right now he's eating the same in MED (5/8"-3/4") dubias, with a few giant mealworms for treats.

I let him out twice a week for a few hours. He likes to explore the Missus plant table in front of the window next to his enclosure.
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Getting to the enclosure... While not quite full-grown, his enclosure is still too small. 24 x 24 x 48 minimum—larger if you can afford it. Several mfrs. are now moving toward 48 x 24 x 48 (essentially double-width).

Between your misting schedule, vet's assessment, readings, and Utah, it appears you're having some humidity challenges. It's fine during the day, but a little low for nighttime. This can happen with all-screen enclosures (hybrid enclosures are more suited to many areas as they're easier to control both temps & RH). You can increase/retian humidity by wrapping the screen enclosure in something impervious—window insulation, shower curtain, PVC sheeting, corrugated plastic, etc.

Live plants help increase and maintain humidity. Bioactive enclosures also increase/maintain humidity, but that may be a different discussion.

The compact UVBs used to have an issue with eye damage, but that was years ago, and the issue has been rectified. NONETHELESS, you should really have a linear T5 UVB—Reptisun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% (both rated for and warrantied 1 year). They will reach 9-12", while the one you have will only radiate 2-4".

Basking lamp should be a flood—not a spot. Flood lights produce a temperature gradient so the cham can choose what temperature it wants to bask at. Spot lights produce hot spots, which are all or nothing, and have been known to burn.

The best basking bulbs are (in order of preference):
  1. Household incandescent bulb
  2. Incandescent flood light
  3. Halogen flood light
  4. Ceramic heat emitter (CHE)
  5. LEDs should not be used for basking—they don't produce enough heat.
Your cham's urates should have a slight orange tint, which is an indicator of proper hydration.

Enclosure should be high enough that his basking site is at or above eye level.
A 24 x 24 x 48 enclosure on top of a 29-30" high table/stand works out perfectly.

+1 on fake vines. All plants & vines should be live.

Panthers reach full-growth between 18-24 months, but can be considered adults at one year.

I see bbyoda just posted, so I'll try to keep up.

Solarmeters may seem expensive, but they're an investment, and can pay for themselves in time. You'll get basking distances more accurate, and not replace bulbs prematurely (There are other ways of extending UVB bulb life). If you're good with electronics, you can build one for less that $50.

Thermometers & hygrometers should be digital with probes—not analog/dial types. The analog types are notoriously inaccurate—up to 40°/40% off. Digital with probes are good to within ±2°/2%.
I have an environmental control center with two temp probes and a humidity probe.
Since I switched out his compact uvb his eyes are doing a lot better every day I've ordered a reptisun t5 ho and gonna take the zilla back.


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I feed him the smaller medium crix because the bigger ones die so fast.and its probably closer to 10-12 every other day because I buy 3 dozen and it lasts about 3 feeds and several of them die or get stuck and die or get ate by others and don't make it to him.
I honestly think I know more than the vet I took him to and before I took him in he was dehydrated.its getting colder here so I turned on his ceramic heater and he was laying under it a lot.i didn't have a temperature probe at the time but I would feel with my forearm how warm it was.


Chameleon Enthusiast
Please help!what do I do?
First, relax. :) You have a beautiful little lady and care of females isn’t all that difficult.
Do you have a lay bin? If not, you’ll need to prepare one and keep it in the bottom of her enclosure. It’s a pretty simple thing. I use a plastic bin that is at least 12” long and wide…depth doesn’t matter as you’re only going to fill it to about 6”. You may want to dril a few super tiny holes in the bottom so it won’t accumulate drainage from misting. Get some washed play sand and put about 6” of it in the bin. Moisten it throughout until it can hold a tunnel without collapsing. Keep in mind that they don’t dig straight down, but dig at an angle. Provide a couple of stable ways for her to get in/out of the bin. Keep the bin ready and when she needs it, it’s there.
As long as your husbandry is correct, she shouldn’t have any problems with laying. Unless she’s been mated, the eggs will be infertile. You’ll just want to remove and count them and then dispose of them.
Once she enters her lay bin, she’ll need total privacy. If she sees anyone watching or is disturbed, she may stop digging and become egg bound. I cover just the visible parts of my enclosure with a light sheet that I’ve poked holes in so I can discretely peek. The whole process takes 1-2 days and she may sleep in her tunnel. You’ll know she’s done when she’s covered her holes and is basking/sitting in her usual place looking much thinner. You’ll want to feed and hydrate her well for 2-3 days. I love hornworms and silkworms for this time. Then you’ll start her on a diet of 3-4 feeders, 3 days a week and keep her basking temp no higher than 80f. This works in reducing egg production in veileds very well (at least for me) and should do the same for a panther. I actually do the same for all of my chameleons with the exception of my boys get slightly higher basking temps.
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