What fixture should I get

What fixture should I get for my panther cham from reading these forums and doing online research I've come to the conclusion that my compact reptisun t5 may be hurting his eyes hes constantly rubbing them on branches and closing them a lot during the day please help!
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
What fixture should I get for my panther cham from reading these forums and doing online research I've come to the conclusion that my compact reptisun t5 may be hurting his eyes hes constantly rubbing them on branches and closing them a lot during the day please help!
Welcome on here! Starting your own thread will help us help you better! If you could fill out this form in as much detail as possible (including pics of your cham, his lights, and his entire cage- lights to bottom) on that thread, it'd be much appreciated! As for your question, a T5 High Output linear UVB bulb and fixture that is at least as long as your cage is is best. You'll need either an Arcadia 6% or Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 T5 HO bulb of the matching size. If you are able to get a Solarmeter 6.5, it'll give you the best and most accurate measurements to ensure proper UVI distances for your cham and tell you when to actually replace your bulb! It's literally a life-saver! Here's the help form:

Here is some recommended information to include when asking for help in the health clinic forum. By providing this information you will receive more accurate and beneficial responses. It might not be necessary to answer all these questions, but the more you provide the better. Please remember that even the most knowledgeable person can only guess at what your problem may be. Only an experienced reptile veterinarian who can directly examine your animal can give a true diagnosis of your chameleon's health.
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

Klyde O'Scope

Chameleon Enthusiast
What fixture should I get for my panther cham from reading these forums and doing online research I've come to the conclusion that my compact reptisun t5 may be hurting his eyes hes constantly rubbing them on branches and closing them a lot during the day please help!
As far as T5 HO fixtures go, most sold today come from the same factory in China.
All made by Shenzen Sunlight Lighting Co. (OEM) and all are virtually identical.

1618240919804.png

  • Arcadia Pro T5
  • Biodude T5HO
  • Carolina Custom Cages T5HO
  • Hydrofarm "Jumpstart"
  • Sunblaster T5HO Nanotech
  • Vivarium T5
  • and Others
So shop for price.

If you're asking about UVB bulbs, you want a T5HO linear UVB—either Reptisun 5.0 or Arcadia 6%.
I have both, and IMO they are of equal quality—both rated and warrantied for 1 year.

Some vendors may sell the fixture with a 'daylight' (6500K) bulb, and you'll need to buy the UVB bulb in addition. Others may allow to buy just the fixture & UVB together.

You'll want one that runs the full width of your enclosure.
 

bbyoda

Chameleon Enthusiast
I bout the zilla fixture with a t8 in it but it has a lens on it with the uvb still make it through?
Can you return that one by chance? The T5 5.0 Reptisun or 6% Arcadia is what you want.

The Zilla T8 fixture does come with plastic on the bulb that you need to remove in order for UVB to come through but it's still not the right light or fixture for our chameleons. It'd be a temporary solution until you get the 5.0 or 6%, which provides the right amount of UVB at the correct depts for chameleon cages (2x2x4).
 
Can you return that one by chance? The T5 5.0 Reptisun or 6% Arcadia is what you want.

The Zilla T8 fixture does come with plastic on the bulb that you need to remove in order for UVB to come through but it's still not the right light or fixture for our chameleons. It'd be a temporary solution until you get the 5.0 or 6%, which provides the right amount of UVB at the correct depts for chameleon cages (2x2x4).
The fixture wont work with a reptisun t5?
 

bbyoda

Chameleon Enthusiast
The fixture wont work with a reptisun t5?
No, it wont. The fixture and bulbs are either T8 or T5. T5 fixture has better output and cage penetration, which is why they're recommended for chameleons. I'm pretty sure you can buy any brand of T5 fixture & some members like to buy dual or quad T5 hoods. The bulb needs to be either Reptisun T5 5.0 High Output or Arcadia 6%.

Here are some fun resources to dig into on UVB:

https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-cage-set-up-replicating-the-sun/

https://reptilesmagazine.com/an-in-depth-look-at-uv-light-and-its-proper-use-with-reptiles/
 
No, it wont. The fixture and bulbs are either T8 or T5. T5 fixture has better output and cage penetration, which is why they're recommended for chameleons. I'm pretty sure you can buy any brand of T5 fixture & some members like to buy dual or quad T5 hoods. The bulb needs to be either Reptisun T5 5.0 High Output or Arcadia 6%.

Here are some fun resources to dig into on UVB:

https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-cage-set-up-replicating-the-sun/

https://reptilesmagazine.com/an-in-depth-look-at-uv-light-and-its-proper-use-with-reptiles/
Where do you recommend I get one for a decent price? I was also thinking about getting a led one it has night settings as well what's your thoughts on them?
 

bbyoda

Chameleon Enthusiast
Where do you recommend I get one for a decent price? I was also thinking about getting a led one it has night settings as well what's your thoughts on them?

They need pitch black at night to sleep properly. So no night lights. LEDs are good for plant lights but not for uvb or heat.

I like this product guide - has a bunch of links to different T5 hoods and some come with bulbs. Then you can price compare. https://caskabove.com/lighting-resources

I've gotten mine at a local pet shop because I like supporting them, it's comparable in price, I get it right away, and I'm able to test that they actually work (I make them plug it in and use my solarmeter on it). I got one off Amazon once that had clearly been returned and had no UVB output anymore.

Edit: removed my last paragraph...I got confused, thought I was on a different thread. 😅
 
Male panther chameleon almost a year old been in my care since he was two months old I sometimes stroke his side he was jumpy at first but hes grown comfortable with it (even seems to enjoy it) I will get him out and let him explore around on my bed while I'm cleaning or modifying his cage.
I feed him about 15 to twenty crix every other day and if there's some lingering around I don't put too many in the next time.
I dust lightly with no phosphorus calcium pretty much ever feed.once every two weeks with calcium with D3 and ever other week with a multivitamin I'm using zoomed repticalcium with D3,zoo meds reptivite w/o D3,and zoomed calcium w/o D3 (phosphorus free). I also feed him horned worms maybe 2-4 every two weeks.i was until recently just buying my feeders from the pet store and feeding them the orange cubes but I now gut load them with kale apples oranges a few orange cubes and some dog food.
WATERING:I have an electric mister going off every hour for 20 seconds,I mist the leaves/branches at 10 am 2 PM and three or four more times till I go to bed at night.i never saw him drink until after I took him to the vet so check on him.but now I see him drinking. i also have a reptifogger it's set up with my environmental control system with a humidity sensor..I have a zilla 18" tropical uvb light and a 75 w reptile basking spot lamp to control his basking temp.they are set up to run from 730 am to 730 pm. He hasn't been tested for parasites his urates have been white and pop part looks healthy.no live plants drainage system at the bottom of his 18×18×36" CAGE that's in my bedroom no fans running or vents by him top of his cage is about 5'5". I live in central utah
Current problem is hes rubbing his eyes on branches and closing them a lot during the day.its getting better since I took him to the vet he said it was the humidity and he was dehydrated he wouldn't do blood work cause I wanted to see if he was good on his vitamins but he gave him a fluid shot to give him a boost.hes doing a ton better and his eyes look a lot healthier I just need help with getting him the right uvb light and open to suggestions on his husbandry.thanks!
 

bbyoda

Chameleon Enthusiast
Male panther chameleon almost a year old been in my care since he was two months old I sometimes stroke his side he was jumpy at first but hes grown comfortable with it (even seems to enjoy it) I will get him out and let him explore around on my bed while I'm cleaning or modifying his cage.
I feed him about 15 to twenty crix every other day and if there's some lingering around I don't put too many in the next time.
I dust lightly with no phosphorus calcium pretty much ever feed.once every two weeks with calcium with D3 and ever other week with a multivitamin I'm using zoomed repticalcium with D3,zoo meds reptivite w/o D3,and zoomed calcium w/o D3 (phosphorus free). I also feed him horned worms maybe 2-4 every two weeks.i was until recently just buying my feeders from the pet store and feeding them the orange cubes but I now gut load them with kale apples oranges a few orange cubes and some dog food.
WATERING:I have an electric mister going off every hour for 20 seconds,I mist the leaves/branches at 10 am 2 PM and three or four more times till I go to bed at night.i never saw him drink until after I took him to the vet so check on him.but now I see him drinking. i also have a reptifogger it's set up with my environmental control system with a humidity sensor..I have a zilla 18" tropical uvb light and a 75 w reptile basking spot lamp to control his basking temp.they are set up to run from 730 am to 730 pm. He hasn't been tested for parasites his urates have been white and pop part looks healthy.no live plants drainage system at the bottom of his 18×18×36" CAGE that's in my bedroom no fans running or vents by him top of his cage is about 5'5". I live in central utah
Current problem is hes rubbing his eyes on branches and closing them a lot during the day.its getting better since I took him to the vet he said it was the humidity and he was dehydrated he wouldn't do blood work cause I wanted to see if he was good on his vitamins but he gave him a fluid shot to give him a boost.hes doing a ton better and his eyes look a lot healthier I just need help with getting him the right uvb light and open to suggestions on his husbandry.thanks!

Can you share recent pictures of him?

1) Supplement type and schedule sounds good. It's a shame the vet didn't do bloodwork, that would've given you a sense of his calcium levels. Which could be an issue since you don't have the right type of UVB. You need a T5 asap. Either way, your supplements aren't expired right? That's another thing to keep an eye out for.

2) Cage should be 2x2x4 for an adult Panther. They like to be up high like on a table looking down on everything. Then they feel safest.

3) Live plants are better for humidity and for them to drink off of. Panthers aren't foliage munchers like Vieleds so that isn't the most pressing thing on the husbandry to adjust. Do you have any fake vines in your enclosure? Like the Xterra ones? Those flake off and get into chameleons eyes.

4) You're feeding too much. Once they're adults you should drop down to like 5 feeders every other day or they'll become obese, which is detrimental to their health.

5) Skip the dog food for gutloading. The dog food leads to uric acid built-up which can cause gout. Check out this gutloading graphic for a good recipe with different fruits, veggies, and supplements to use to keep the crix healthy and good for your cham.

chameleon-gutload.jpg


6) You're misting too much. Should be 2-3 times a day for 1-2 minutes and the cage should dry out completely during the day. When do you run your fogger? It's good to do that at night for hydration but only if evening temperatures are low (under 67), to lower risk of a respiratory infection.


Okay phew that's a lot. There's a ton of misinformation out there but what you learn here will give your cham the best life so keep asking questions and improving! Please also read through this, it's an excellent resource:

https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/
 
Can you share recent pictures of him?

1) Supplement type and schedule sounds good. It's a shame the vet didn't do bloodwork, that would've given you a sense of his calcium levels. Which could be an issue since you don't have the right type of UVB. You need a T5 asap. Either way, your supplements aren't expired right? That's another thing to keep an eye out for.

2) Cage should be 2x2x4 for an adult Panther. They like to be up high like on a table looking down on everything. Then they feel safest.

3) Live plants are better for humidity and for them to drink off of. Panthers aren't foliage munchers like Vieleds so that isn't the most pressing thing on the husbandry to adjust. Do you have any fake vines in your enclosure? Like the Xterra ones? Those flake off and get into chameleons eyes.

4) You're feeding too much. Once they're adults you should drop down to like 5 feeders every other day or they'll become obese, which is detrimental to their health.

5) Skip the dog food for gutloading. The dog food leads to uric acid built-up which can cause gout. Check out this gutloading graphic for a good recipe with different fruits, veggies, and supplements to use to keep the crix healthy and good for your cham.

View attachment 314199

6) You're misting too much. Should be 2-3 times a day for 1-2 minutes and the cage should dry out completely during the day. When do you run your fogger? It's good to do that at night for hydration but only if evening temperatures are low (under 67), to lower risk of a respiratory infection.


Okay phew that's a lot. There's a ton of misinformation out there but what you learn here will give your cham the best life so keep asking questions and improving! Please also read through this, it's an excellent resource:

https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/
So I did have a reptisun 5.0 uvb self balloted lamp but I heard that they went good for their eyes.ive been misting a lot because the vet told me he was dehydrated and I needed to get his humidity up so I have it set to keep the humidity at at least 60% during the day and 53 at night.
 
They need pitch black at night to sleep properly. So no night lights. LEDs are good for plant lights but not for uvb or heat.

I like this product guide - has a bunch of links to different T5 hoods and some come with bulbs. Then you can price compare. https://caskabove.com/lighting-resources

I've gotten mine at a local pet shop because I like supporting them, it's comparable in price, I get it right away, and I'm able to test that they actually work (I make them plug it in and use my solarmeter on it). I got one off Amazon once that had clearly been returned and had no UVB output anymore.

Edit: removed my last paragraph...I got confused, thought I was on a different
How much was the solar meter?
 
Can you share recent pictures of him?

1) Supplement type and schedule sounds good. It's a shame the vet didn't do bloodwork, that would've given you a sense of his calcium levels. Which could be an issue since you don't have the right type of UVB. You need a T5 asap. Either way, your supplements aren't expired right? That's another thing to keep an eye out for.

2) Cage should be 2x2x4 for an adult Panther. They like to be up high like on a table looking down on everything. Then they feel safest.

3) Live plants are better for humidity and for them to drink off of. Panthers aren't foliage munchers like Vieleds so that isn't the most pressing thing on the husbandry to adjust. Do you have any fake vines in your enclosure? Like the Xterra ones? Those flake off and get into chameleons eyes.

4) You're feeding too much. Once they're adults you should drop down to like 5 feeders every other day or they'll become obese, which is detrimental to their health.

5) Skip the dog food for gutloading. The dog food leads to uric acid built-up which can cause gout. Check out this gutloading graphic for a good recipe with different fruits, veggies, and supplements to use to keep the crix healthy and good for your cham.

View attachment 314199

6) You're misting too much. Should be 2-3 times a day for 1-2 minutes and the cage should dry out completely during the day. When do you run your fogger? It's good to do that at night for hydration but only if evening temperatures are low (under 67), to lower risk of a respiratory infection.


Okay phew that's a lot. There's a ton of misinformation out there but what you learn here will give your cham the best life so keep asking questions and improving! Please also read through this, it's an excellent resource:

https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/
Hes not full grown yet right? At almost a year old...I bought one from a guy who was selling his a while ago and he was two at least 2 times the size my little flint guy is now...
 

bbyoda

Chameleon Enthusiast
Hes not full grown yet right? At almost a year old...I bought one from a guy who was selling his a while ago and he was two at least 2 times the size my little flint guy is now...
Once they're a year (12 months) old, they're considered adults. But let's see pics of him and how he's doing.

Solarmeters are like $230 on Amazon. They're great and I think the investment pays for itself over time if you have multiple chameleons but you don't need one if you listen to advice given here on the forums on which bulb/fixture to buy and how often to replace it.

Your UVB light is a compact coil bulb. They put out way less UVB than linear. The T8 zilla you got is better than that but still not as good as T5. Look at this diagram. See how little the compact fluorescent (CFL) bulbs put out?

UVB-UVB-penetration-map-011421-untitled-1024x801.jpg


Regarding hydration, the way you assess that is through urates. If his urates are white, he's hydrated. Humidity is important but fogging during the day while it's hot or the heat bulb is on can cause respiratory issues. Ways to keep humidity up during the day include putting shower curtains around the sides of the cage and keeping lots of live plants inside the cage (they hold humidity).

What are you measuring temps and humidity with? Does your vet have experience with reptiles and specifically chameleons?

I'm surprised they mentioned hydration if his urates are white. And surprised the vet didn't talk with you about your UVB light.

I know you came here for just advice on the fixture. But every part of husbandry is interrelated.

Let's get some pics of your chameleon and the entire enclosure top to bottom.
 

Klyde O'Scope

Chameleon Enthusiast
Male panther chameleon almost a year old been in my care since he was two months old I sometimes stroke his side he was jumpy at first but hes grown comfortable with it (even seems to enjoy it) I will get him out and let him explore around on my bed while I'm cleaning or modifying his cage.
I feed him about 15 to twenty crix every other day and if there's some lingering around I don't put too many in the next time.
I dust lightly with no phosphorus calcium pretty much ever feed.once every two weeks with calcium with D3 and ever other week with a multivitamin I'm using zoomed repticalcium with D3,zoo meds reptivite w/o D3,and zoomed calcium w/o D3 (phosphorus free). I also feed him horned worms maybe 2-4 every two weeks.i was until recently just buying my feeders from the pet store and feeding them the orange cubes but I now gut load them with kale apples oranges a few orange cubes and some dog food.
WATERING:I have an electric mister going off every hour for 20 seconds,I mist the leaves/branches at 10 am 2 PM and three or four more times till I go to bed at night.i never saw him drink until after I took him to the vet so check on him.but now I see him drinking. i also have a reptifogger it's set up with my environmental control system with a humidity sensor..I have a zilla 18" tropical uvb light and a 75 w reptile basking spot lamp to control his basking temp.they are set up to run from 730 am to 730 pm. He hasn't been tested for parasites his urates have been white and pop part looks healthy.no live plants drainage system at the bottom of his 18×18×36" CAGE that's in my bedroom no fans running or vents by him top of his cage is about 5'5". I live in central utah
Current problem is hes rubbing his eyes on branches and closing them a lot during the day.its getting better since I took him to the vet he said it was the humidity and he was dehydrated he wouldn't do blood work cause I wanted to see if he was good on his vitamins but he gave him a fluid shot to give him a boost.hes doing a ton better and his eyes look a lot healthier I just need help with getting him the right uvb light and open to suggestions on his husbandry.thanks!
I agree with bbyoda in post #13.

If any help, mine (male panther age ~13 months) eats 7 LG crix every other day or 3-4 every day. Right now he's eating the same in MED (5/8"-3/4") dubias, with a few giant mealworms for treats.

I let him out twice a week for a few hours. He likes to explore the Missus plant table in front of the window next to his enclosure.
1636293457288.jpeg


Getting to the enclosure... While not quite full-grown, his enclosure is still too small. 24 x 24 x 48 minimum—larger if you can afford it. Several mfrs. are now moving toward 48 x 24 x 48 (essentially double-width).

Between your misting schedule, vet's assessment, readings, and Utah, it appears you're having some humidity challenges. It's fine during the day, but a little low for nighttime. This can happen with all-screen enclosures (hybrid enclosures are more suited to many areas as they're easier to control both temps & RH). You can increase/retian humidity by wrapping the screen enclosure in something impervious—window insulation, shower curtain, PVC sheeting, corrugated plastic, etc.

Live plants help increase and maintain humidity. Bioactive enclosures also increase/maintain humidity, but that may be a different discussion.

The compact UVBs used to have an issue with eye damage, but that was years ago, and the issue has been rectified. NONETHELESS, you should really have a linear T5 UVB—Reptisun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% (both rated for and warrantied 1 year). They will reach 9-12", while the one you have will only radiate 2-4".

Basking lamp should be a flood—not a spot. Flood lights produce a temperature gradient so the cham can choose what temperature it wants to bask at. Spot lights produce hot spots, which are all or nothing, and have been known to burn.

The best basking bulbs are (in order of preference):
  1. Household incandescent bulb
  2. Incandescent flood light
  3. Halogen flood light
  4. Ceramic heat emitter (CHE)
  5. LEDs should not be used for basking—they don't produce enough heat.
Your cham's urates should have a slight orange tint, which is an indicator of proper hydration.
https://chameleonacademy.com/basics-hydration-for-chameleons/

Enclosure should be high enough that his basking site is at or above eye level.
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-cage-placement/
A 24 x 24 x 48 enclosure on top of a 29-30" high table/stand works out perfectly.

+1 on fake vines. All plants & vines should be live.

Panthers reach full-growth between 18-24 months, but can be considered adults at one year.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/when-is-a-male-panther-fully-grown.49346/

I see bbyoda just posted, so I'll try to keep up.

Solarmeters may seem expensive, but they're an investment, and can pay for themselves in time. You'll get basking distances more accurate, and not replace bulbs prematurely (There are other ways of extending UVB bulb life). If you're good with electronics, you can build one for less that $50.
https://www.google.com/search?clien...WJKM0KHUuuAb8QvgUoAXoECAEQMg&biw=1024&bih=584

Thermometers & hygrometers should be digital with probes—not analog/dial types. The analog types are notoriously inaccurate—up to 40°/40% off. Digital with probes are good to within ±2°/2%.
 
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