Your chameleon: veiled chameleon, female, approximately 4-5 1/2 months old (pet co guy said 4-6 weeks when I got her) been in my care for 4 months she looks large, and appears To have her big girl colors. She looks older than 5 months to me, but I cant be certain. Petco tends to give a lot of sketchy info that is not very trustworthy.
Handling: wednesdays if I’m not working (take her outside for natural sun) doesn’t like to be handled have to use one of her live plants
Feeding: feeding her super worms and crickets, 7 crickets a day and 5 super worms, dust and leave her food before I leave for work or class, super worms have dry oatmeal and apple for water, crickets have kale, apples, and carrots (hasn’t been eating as much) That is a lot of food for her. You might want to cut that back to 3-5 feeders every other day, or 3 times a week. Also you might want to consider gut loading with dark leafy greens such as collard greens, escarole, dandelion greens, sweet potatoes, sweet peppers, etc.
Supplements: calcium without d3 everyday but wednesdays (dip super worms tails in calcium, calcium with d3 and reptile vitamin on the 1st and 22nd of every month, why do you skip wednesdays? I like the no D3 every feeding but 2 times a month. Does your vitamin have D3 in it? If so you can skip the calcium with D3. If not the vitamin and calcium with D3 should be alternated once a week (like say Mondays)
Watering: hand spray her with warm water before I leave for work for about 30 seconds, leave mister on after goes on 3 times a day till 7 for 45 seconds, her poops are always whitish she needs to have longer misting sessions, and fewer a day. Ideally you would mist for 2-5 minutes before lights on, and 2-5 minutes after lights off. You should not be misting during the day because heat+humidity can lead to RI. Also your enclosure will need time to dry during the day.
Decal description: have gotten smaller than before, darker color with white urates , hasn’t been test for parasites
History: nothing crazy she hasn’t shown any weird signs
Cage info:
Cage type: screen cage 16x16x30 inches as already pointed out, she will need a 2x2x4 ft enclosure or will become restless and want out, which may be happening here. Bigger is better. She needs her space to roam.
Lighting: reptisun t5 HO linear UVB, goes on at 7am goes off at 7pm this is good. Remember to buy a new one every 6ish months so she continues to get the proper amount of uv. Her basking branch should be 9 inches below the uv light.
Temperature: basking temp is around 88 degrees , rest of cage is around 64 degrees, lowest at night is 64, tempature gauges at basking spot and bottom of cage, (heat gun coming in mail) this is way too hot for her. You dont want her hottest spot (basking) to be above 80 degrees or she will produce too many eggs and her health will likely decline due to it. You also only need the basking bulb on for a few hours a day. It isn't needed all day.
Humidity: 60% using humidifier, humidity gauge hand thingy her humidity should be around 30-50% during the day. 60 is too high for her. At night, during the coolest hours, her humidi6can jump to 100%. Dry, warm days. Moist, cool nights. Night temp can drop as low as 40 degrees and still be good.
Plants: 2 money trees at bottom of cage k would get some more live plants in there. A pothos is cheap and easy, and fills a lot of space.
Placement: on the right side of my bed in the right corner of my room, no fans or air vents, only me pretty much in the room, it’s on a table for elevation, note it is next to my windowed doors
Location: Southern California
Current problem: hasn’t been eating as much and keeps going to bottom right of cage and scratching around towards glass doors and proceeds to go up till she hits upper branches then goes to basking spot. she could be looking to lay her eggs, or should feel cramped and hot in her enclosure
