Wc Oustalets chameleon health

Gillett2012

New Member
I received an oustalets chameleon from a breeder. When I originally received him i took him for a vet check because his lips didn't look right and we found that he had mouth rot. After a month or so of treatment (ceftamazine and baytrol) that has gone away. Only problem is now that he won't eat on his own. My vet has him on liquid vitamins, he has also started his dewormer now that his mouth is healed. I am currently in the position that I'm being told by the vet to force feed him food till he starts on his own. I'm at a complete loss as to what I can possibly do to help him eat on his own.
 

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If his mouth is healed, and the only issue you are currently treating is worms, then the treatment shouldn't be more often then once a week, in most cases.
My advice is to not do ANY handling, outside of the medications, leave the chameleon alone and offer enticing food, in a bowl, underneath his perch, in clear sight, every 3 days.
If he doesn't eat, remove the food and try again, 3 days later. If he hasn't eaten at all, then when you are handling him for medications, then you can feed the chameleon with whole feeder insects. It may take several attempts before he is willing to swallow the feeder, but once it does, maintain a line or one feeder after the other, until he's been given a good amount. Stick with high calcium and substantial items, such as silkworms, hornworms, medium sized feeder roaches, butter worms, and crickets. You can use forceps to drop several butterworms or a few crickets in the animals open mouth at a time. I'd feed up to 4-5 larger prey items and up to 10 smaller ones. Wait 3 days and offer bowl feeding again. Keep up this routine, until the chameleon eats on its own. Don't forget to dust the feeders on the usual schedule of calcium and vitamins. I'd discuss this program with your vet and avoid feeding him the vet vitamins, as it's more handling and more risk. The chameleon appears to have good body condition, so it can survive once a week supplementation and feeding, until it gets going, in my opinion.
 
Looking at your enclosure, it should be vertically oriented, these are large, active lizards, and one light bulb is depressing to sun-loving species, like these. Get that cage on its side and get that cage lit with a 48" quad fixture and a couple spots. @Venutus1 can help you with the best lighting options. I'd recommend a 48" quad T5, with 2 of his daylight bulbs and 2 of his 10.0 or 12.0s, with a couple basking spots of either his GE reveal bulbs or halogen baskers.
 
His medication for worms is every 14 days for 3 times. He has a uvb light towards the back (hidden in the picture) he's getting a much larger cage once I find one that is suitable for his adult size. I'm looking into a bird cage or custom building a screen cage
 
That's good news. I would only force feed him once a week and try the every 3 days offering food in a bowl. Make sure his lighting and basking temperatures match a panther's recommended parameters, even a veileds parameters should suit them well. They like sun and an 85-90F basking spot.
 
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