Veiled Chameleon Dying

Real plants are best, but right now that is one of the lowest priorities. If your little guy pulls thru (and I’m praying that he does), it would be best to go thru all of your husbandry.
I seem to recall something about natural unfiltered sunlight helping to push supplemented Vitamin D out of the body. I’ll have to try searching for that. @ERKleRose do you know about this?
Yes, I believe hydration and natural sunlight help a lot
 
So far I’ve found this, but still searching.
The body metabolizes Vitamin A and D into compounds for use, these compounds use the same receptor so if you overdose D3 you block Vitamin A and get a deficiency not only because in this case none has been offered in the diet and because D3 is blocking it in the body.

That's exactly it....they use the same receptors. I believe an imbalance in either the D3 or the A can have the same results in many ways. I believe Dr. Ken Lopez uses one (A or D3) to treat a hypervitminosis of the other.
 
Your basking temperatures are too high as are your cage temperatures. 80F is the most it should be in the basking area.

How long have you had him?

If you're using calcium powder with D3 at all the feedings, then you're likely overdosing him with D3 especially since your using a 10 uvb light. Is it a compact or long linear tube? What brand?
What light are you using as a basking light. No lights on at night...right?

The food should be fed/Gutloaded with a nutritious diet since you want the chameleon to have healthy food. Has he been eating at all lately?

Can he shoot his tongue out?

Please post photos of the cage including the lights.
 
So far I’m not able to find anything about natural sunlight helping to increase the metabolism of supplemented vitamin D3. Hydration is essential though. Although it may be very stressful, the vet could give him some fluids subcutaneously.
What is the medication that the vet gave you, besides the vitamin A?
 
Herptivite has no D3.

@ERKleRose ...he's already getting a vitamin A product ordered by the vet. IMHO...I wouldn't normally be happy about that...but it might help counter the overdose of D3 if there is one....however it might also not be good for the organs if both are too high...I'm not a vet so I'm only giving an opinion. You should ask a good chameleon vet about that

@AnonymousChameleon ...did the vet suggest a food supplement like carnivore care be given to the chameleon?
Here's a recipe for bug juice that you could give him with a needleless syringe, very carefully so he doesn't aspirate it ...
https://www.adcham.com/html/husbandry/bug-juice.html
 
Your basking temperatures are too high as are your cage temperatures. 80F is the most it should be in the basking area.

How long have you had him?

If you're using calcium powder with D3 at all the feedings, then you're likely overdosing him with D3 especially since your using a 10 uvb light. Is it a compact or long linear tube? What brand?
What light are you using as a basking light. No lights on at night...right?

The food should be fed/Gutloaded with a nutritious diet since you want the chameleon to have healthy food. Has he been eating at all lately?

Can he shoot his tongue out?

Please post photos of the cage including the lights.
Basking is too high???? I read 90 is fine for veiled chameleons, but idk. Had him for 3 months now, he’s 6 months old. I use Reptisun 10uvb 13 watt bulb, which my vet recommended. At night I use 1 black light for little heat at night which goes between 70 - 75, and I can barely see anything in tank with the black light on. I feed him small crickets and meal worms from pet store, how do I gutload them? Haven’t seen him ate in 2 weeks. He used to shoot his tounge out fine till he past 2 weeks. I will post tank with night light on, i’ll post day light on tomorrow
 
@ERKleRose ...he's already getting a vitamin A product ordered by the vet. IMHO...I wouldn't normally be happy about that...but it might help counter the overdose of D3 if there is one....however it might also not be good for the organs if both are too high...I'm not a vet so I'm only giving an opinion. You should ask a good chameleon vet about that
Sorry, missed that! Thanks!
 
Your basking temperatures are too high as are your cage temperatures. 80F is the most it should be in the basking area.

How long have you had him?

If you're using calcium powder with D3 at all the feedings, then you're likely overdosing him with D3 especially since your using a 10 uvb light. Is it a compact or long linear tube? What brand?
What light are you using as a basking light. No lights on at night...right?

The food should be fed/Gutloaded with a nutritious diet since you want the chameleon to have healthy food. Has he been eating at all?

Can he shoot his tongue out?

Please post photos of the cage including the lights.
Here is tank with black light on
 

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Herptivite has no D3.

@ERKleRose ...he's already getting a vitamin A product ordered by the vet. IMHO...I wouldn't normally be happy about that...but it might help counter the overdose of D3 if there is one....however it might also not be good for the organs if both are too high...I'm not a vet so I'm only giving an opinion. You should ask a good chameleon vet about that

@AnonymousChameleon ...did the vet suggest a food supplement like carnivore care be given to the chameleon?
Here's a recipe for bug juice that you could give him with a needleless syringe, very carefully so he doesn't aspirate it ...
https://www.adcham.com/html/husbandry/bug-juice.html
Vet gave me EmerAidIC Carnivore powder with syringes to feed every other day 0.5ml if not eating.
 
Herptivite has no D3.

@ERKleRose ...he's already getting a vitamin A product ordered by the vet. IMHO...I wouldn't normally be happy about that...but it might help counter the overdose of D3 if there is one....however it might also not be good for the organs if both are too high...I'm not a vet so I'm only giving an opinion. You should ask a good chameleon vet about that

@AnonymousChameleon ...did the vet suggest a food supplement like carnivore care be given to the chameleon?
Here's a recipe for bug juice that you could give him with a needleless syringe, very carefully so he doesn't aspirate it ...
https://www.adcham.com/html/husbandry/bug-juice.html
Vet also gave me papers on what uvb light to get and what vegetables to feed him and what bugs to feed him, which are only phoenix worms, dubia roaches and crickets, only if gutloaded. I’ve been trying to find out how to gutload the crickets
 
Yes...absolutely too high...you're to dehydrating his small body....and overheating him. It should be cooler at night. You don't need heat at night unless your room gets colder than 50F at that age.

Is the black light a UVB producing black light or just a black colored
Incandescent bulb? Either way, it shouldn't be used.
Is the UVB light a compact or long linear tube light?

Mealworms are not the best insect to use. Try, along with the crickets, silkworms, BSFL, roaches, small superworms, once in a while waxworms. Feed the crickets and roaches and superworms with greens such as dandelions, kale, collards, endive, and veggies such as squash, zucchini, carrots, sweet potatoes, sweet red pepper, etc.and Avery small amount of Apple, pear, berries, etc.

Tongue issue might be because he's losing nutrition or it could be from too much UVB and D3.
 
I'm not a fan of carnivore care...but it's ok for a few days.
All the vets use it even thought there are better things IMHO.
 
Gutloading is feeding the bugs you feed your chameleon with healthy foods so more nutrition is passed onto your cham. Here is our gutload chart, try to use as many ingredients as possible (in the correct ratios). Everything should be organic, too.
 

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How often should I be misting him, and with hot, warm or cold water? I tend to use a spray bottle with warm water for a few seconds on him 2 - 3 times a day, sometimes every other day
Do not spray mist directly onto his face and not into his mouth.
A dripper as @MissSkittles suggested is the best idea...drip it at the rate of one or two drops per second. It will take a while to get him to drink...and don't do it for too long at first.
 
Yes...absolutely too high...you're to dehydrating his small body....and overheating him. It should be cooler at night. You don't need heat at night unless your room gets colder than 50F at that age.

Is the black light a UVB producing black light or just a black colored
Incandescent bulb? Either way, it shouldn't be used.
Is the UVB light a compact or long linear tube light?

Mealworms are not the best insect to use. Try, along with the crickets, silkworms, BSFL, roaches, small superworms, once in a while waxworms. Feed the crickets and roaches and superworms with greens such as dandelions, kale, collards, endive, and veggies such as squash, zucchini, carrots, sweet potatoes, sweet red pepper, etc.and Avery small amount of Apple, pear, berries, etc.

Tongue issue might be because he's losing nutrition or it could be from too much UVB and D3.
No UVB in night light, compact light. I will get those type of insects, do they also sell those in stores like Petco or Pet Smart or would I have to order online?
 
There should be no lights on at night and you do want the temps to get cool. Veileds can handle temps down to the mid 50’s. Whatever you give him, make sure to get it as far back in his mouth as possible to avoid aspiration.
Unfortunately, there’s a lot of conflicting information about the proper care of chameleons and many vets lack experience with them or just haven’t kept up to date. The site that you were provided for Chameleon Academy is the most accurate and up to date care guidelines and the creator of the site has been a leading force in the chameleon community. The vast majority of pet stores, especially the chain ones like Petco, really have little correct knowledge about keeping chams and will sell people a bunch of wrong stuff.
Both @kinyonga and @ERKleRose have much more experience and knowledge than I do and I defer to their advice.
 
Do not spray mist directly onto his face and not into his mouth.
A dripper as @MissSkittles suggested is the best idea...drip it at the rate of one or two drops per second. It will take a while to get him to drink...and don't do it for too long at first.
Where should I place dripper? I currently have one placed at bottom of tank and it drips into a bowl
 
"My opinion (for what its worth) is preformed vitamin A is a medication used to treat severe cases of hypovitaminosis A and symptoms suggestive of such. It is too dangerous to use as a supplement. I use it carefully to elevate vitamin A levels. I sometimes use it to treat vitamin D toxicosis. I also use it when there is liver dysfunction. Bile salts are required for the uptake of retinol into the liver. I also use vitamin D to treat vitamin A toxicosis (along with vitamin E which seems to help)."....
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/comm...ard-gecko-care-sheet-geckos-unlimited-10.html

I'm especially referring to this part of the quote..."I sometimes use it to treat vitamin D toxicosis."...so if the D3 has been overdone, the vitamin A might help.
 
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