Veiled Chameleon’s “Cone”

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Totaylor, Jun 28, 2018.

  1. Totaylor

    Totaylor New Member

    New to Chams. Just bought a 6 - 8 month old male veiled chameleon several days ago from a local reptile shop. Took him to an exotic pets vet. She thought he was dehydrated because his head “cone” was concave and not puffy. Never read anything about that anywhere.

    She recommended soaking him for an hour - didn’t say how often.

    He seems to be eating all his live crickets and having daily formed tic-tac like black droppings and a few daily white unrates the size of a dime.

    Thoughts?

    I have a cage mister going every hour for 60 seconds during the day and a dripper that goes constantly for a few hours every morning.
     

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  2. Totaylor

    Totaylor New Member

    He’s also very active during the day and the vet called him very scrappy.
     
  3. CamrynTheCham22

    CamrynTheCham22 Avid Member

    Could you fill out this form and post a better picture of his head a body?

    Chameleon Info:
    • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
    • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
    • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
    • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
    • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
    • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
    • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

    Cage Info:
    • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
    • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
    • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
    • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
    • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
    • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
    • Location - Where are you geographically located?

    Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
     
  4. jannb

    jannb Chameleon Enthusiast

    Welcome to the forums. From what I can see he looks fine. Don’t soak him and find a new vet. Where do you live? I might be able to recommend a good chameleon vet.
     
  5. Totaylor

    Totaylor New Member

    Fort Lauderdale, FL
     
  6. jannb

    jannb Chameleon Enthusiast

    Totaylor and JacksJill like this.
  7. Totaylor

    Totaylor New Member

  8. andrearamirezo91

    andrearamirezo91 Established Member

    I live in Weston. @jannb suggested Dr. Strauss and I really liked him. He printed a bunch of care sheets for me upon arrival, and sat with me for about 15-20 mins to talk about chameleon care before even asking to look at my chameleon. He was great and gentle with my boy, very charming and looked like he knew what he was doing. I’d take the 20min drive to Weston :)
     
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  9. Angelwolf

    Angelwolf Chameleon Enthusiast

    Yes. What @jannb said. Your vet, while probably trying to genuinely help, have you there wrong advice. Never soak a chameleon. They do not absolu moisture through their skin like other reptiles do, so it would only be detrimental to his well being by causing him A LOT of stress. Your misting schedule is off, too. You want 2-3 good long misting sessions (5+ min) throughout the day, and you want to allow the cage to dry out between sessions. What size is the cage he is in now? You have it set up very nicely, however he will outgrow that one in just a few months. I can tell you did your research before getting him, but you're still a little behind the eight ball, simply because of where he came from. Pet stores don't care for them properly. Also his "cone" (it's actually called a casque) isn't puffy because he probably wasn't eating due to the stress of being in the pet store. They keep fat stores in their casque, so as he gets back to better health, he will begin to replace those fat stores and it will be nice and plump again. Good luck with him. You're on the right track, but have a little work to do.
     
  10. Totaylor

    Totaylor New Member

    Thanks. His enclosure is 3’ H x 3’ W x 18” deep. It’s the largest commercial screen enclosure I could find. If he gets very much bigger and seems too cramped I’ll just make my own from window screens.

    He seems to be eating every cricket I give him (around a dozen medium a day). I’ve also made small super worms available. Does not appear to be eating them. I just installed a dish at the top of the enclosure so I’ll see if that motivates him to also eat them. I also put chopped raw collard greens and chopped strawberries in the dish too.

    His poop is black and thick like tar and his urates are white. He seems to be going one or twice a day.

    He’s also very active - moving around the enclosure - possibly hunting crickets...
     
  11. Angelwolf

    Angelwolf Chameleon Enthusiast

    All signs are pointing to him improving. Do you have a UVB light on him? That's very important. The poop should return to normal soon. What you are seeing is most likely attributed to the stress he has recently been subjected to and probable poor nutrition. You would be wise to have a fecal test done (by a different vet) just to make sure there are no worms.
     
  12. Totaylor

    Totaylor New Member

    I do! Went up to a UVB 10 vs 5 per the vet but he gets a few hours of direct sunlight every morning since his cage is outside in the SOFLO humidity. He also has a full spectrum heat lamp at 95 degrees.

    The vet did a fecal test and found mild pin worms. Being treated 1 time a week for 3 weeks.
     
  13. Totaylor

    Totaylor New Member

    Thin casque
    Black formed stools
    White urates
     
  14. kyle0417

    kyle0417 Established Member

  15. Totaylor

    Totaylor New Member


    Details are above.

    Mainly looking for others who keep theirs outside in south Florida and any warning signs / conditions to monitor.
     
  16. Totaylor

    Totaylor New Member

    Done
     
  17. Totaylor

    Totaylor New Member

    May be wishful thinking but I think his casque is filling out. Seems like the base is fuller. His droppings have nearly doubled in size and length from 7 days ago.
     
  18. jannb

    jannb Chameleon Enthusiast

    It’s really hot here in South Florida. Be sure to keep his outside enclosure in the shade and make sure there’s plenty more shade inside the enclosure. The enclosure should not be made of screen or the wildlife here can tear right through screen and so can dogs and cats. We use plastic coated hardware cloth. My guys go outside for 3 to 5 hours almost daily. I misted for 3 to 5 minutes twice and keep a dripper going the entire time they are outside. You can see my outside enclosures below.

    CFC0E875-1023-45BA-A036-11C70D93A5B8.jpeg E527E588-6430-4D3A-9530-A6536025F3EB.jpeg 6628CE7F-7A63-4D08-8A4B-B954461D1CB1.jpeg 2397FB12-96E3-4F7A-8AAA-3BAAA913AF3A.jpeg 87A35C27-8973-47C7-BA77-A61F1E10292F.jpeg 5895CF19-2C27-47C4-9A0E-564AA2233065.jpeg 4E8A3C03-C8B9-48E6-802C-B87DE5163767.jpeg
     
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  19. Totaylor

    Totaylor New Member

  20. andrearamirezo91

    andrearamirezo91 Established Member


    Stanley is beautiful!!! I definitely tried zooming in as much as I could to get a better view lol :rolleyes: Awesme setup. Out of curiosity.. what’s the last, longer enclosure for?
     
    Totaylor and jannb like this.

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