URGENT ADVICE NEEDED and egg bound veiled Chameleon

[MPTP]

My chameleon mate for 45 days ,Digging the hole already 15 days from today ,but no eggs laying be saw because be frightenned, and The mental state seems very good ,and no feeding for 20 days ,what can I do for her? could he die?
The the laying bin 20D(cm)*35L(cm)*18W(cm) for the female.

 

[jannb]

Take your chameleon to the vet and yes she could die. Below is my egg laying blog. You might find it helpful.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/jannb/345-egg-laying-laying-bin.html

 

[Texas Panther Man]

I hope you didnt wait too long man. She needs a shot of oxytocin to see if she will go into contractions/labor. If it works she should just start dropping them throughout her enclosure. She will also need a shot of calcium also. Dont waste any more time get her looked at by a qualified vet today.

 

[MPTP]

which one can give me some information about abdominal delivery?

I used oxytocin for female chameleon, oxytocin,10IU,i.m. q 24 hr for 4 days , Glucose sour calcium o.1g,p.o q 24 hr .but But have no effect.The female belly still more and more swells up,and no feeding .which one can give me some information about abdominal delivery.

 

[kinyonga]

Your profile says your occupation is veterinary...do you mean you are a veterinarian??

What species is your chameleon?

 

[MPTP]

The information about chameleon very few . could you help me ?

It is a veiled chameleon,The Chinese inshore reptile medical science just started, still don't understand chameleon abdominal delivery,the information about chameleon very few . could you help me ?

 

[kinyonga]

Are you a veterinarian?

 

[MPTP]

I am a veterinarian，But I don't understand　chameleon

 

[kinyonga]

I can't give you advice about how to do the surgery but if you want husbandry information I can give you quite a bit of that.

M Wheelock is a vet who posts on here sometimes...perhaps he can tell you about the surgery.

I do know that the spaying is becoming more successful these days.

 

[MPTP]

How do the directions of egg settle?

After Surgical operation , how to hatch egg, How to do with the eggs from belly cavity? can i hatch them?How does the directions of egg settle?

 

[fluxlizard]

They may sometimes hatch once removed.

Also if female dies before operation- you can still remove eggs from recently deceased female and sometimes hatch them.

If you can see embryonic disc on egg, I place that side up.
If not, any side up probably ok if egg is still good.

Sorry to hear of your problems.

pictures of spay procedure in iguana. Different lizard, same parts but chameleon much smaller:

http://www.lbah.com/reptile/iguana_spay.htm

 

[kinyonga]

You have to incubate the eggs at about 74F.

If there is a membrane (the tube that the eggs pass down) joining the eggs it must be removed.

You can put the eggs in rows in a plastic container about 2" deep on slightly moist vermiculite. Only fill the container half full. The eggs should not be turned/rotated.

To test the vermiculite for moisture, take a hand full of it and squeeze it...there should be no more than one or two drops of water come out of it when its squeezed. If the vermiculite is too moist the eggs will take on too much water and the embryo will die. The container should be in the dark.

Put two very small holes in the lid and put the lid back on the container. Put the container in a place where the temperature will stay at about 74F. The temperature can go up and down a several degrees without harming the embryo. It could take up to 8 months for them to hatch.

There will be water droplets on the inside of the container and on the bottom of the lid. This is normal.

The eggs may get a red color to them (its likely a mold) but I don't think it hurts the embryos.

 

[kinyonga]

How is the chameleon now??
Did you do surgery on her?

 

[MPTP]

you give me what anaesthetize medicine?

She is still still living, I am seeking a suitable anaesthesia medicine now, you give me what anaesthetize medicine?I put her in the box, make her not climb to come up and hope that she produces egg by herself.
I hear it is very good using aether for chameleon.aether because no relatived experience.

 

[MPTP]

how does my cham eggs become this appearance?

how does my cham eggs become this appearance?Seem to be a little bit to lack calcium? What way to prevent from?

 

[kinyonga]

They all look infertile...but the 3 bigger ones are strange...maybe fused. I'm not sure.

Did she lay these eggs?

 

[fluxlizard]

You pulled those out of her post-mortum or no?

coloring looks like maybe you did.

Some of those definitely are incorrectly formed. Calcium probably not the only problem.

Give us a list of your care -temperatures, lighting, diet, calcium/vitamin supplements and maybe we can help prevent future problems.

Some of those look like they *might* hatch, others no.

To me, they do not all look obviously infertile, a few to me just dirty from pulling out of the female and poorly calcified and many are poorly formed and obviously infertile, but maybe Kinyonga can tell better than I from the photo. Some look like maybe they are hard and cheesy.

Just throw away the obviously bad and give the others a try and find out- nothing to loose at this point. Maybe some will be lucky.

Calcium- use calcium supplement and uvb light or sunshine and/or some d3 sometimes to correct. If you explain your care up until now, some here can help you correct problems.

 

[MPTP]

Data of my chameleon husbandry, What problem?

My chameleon: veiled chameleo, 13mo,female ,i keep it for 8mo;
food Structure: Cricket,90%\cockroach,10%;
Nutritional product: Mixed by Bio Nutri,5% ,REPTIVITE,20%, and Glucose sour calcium slice 75%,3/wk. dust with food;
Water: Handicraft spray,3/day, provided water basin ;
Excrete: 3/wk.;
history of disease: No;the first time didn't lay egg in nest,also 15 soft hull egg like this picture ;
Cage size: wood box with screen, L55cm*W55cm*H110cm;
Lighting: Hangen compact UVB-5.0, 6h,UVA-50w,winter ,6h,summer,0h,raway 20cm;
Temperature: basking 84F,air temperature 59-86F throught year,winter now in china guangzhou;
Humidity: morning 80% noon 45% night 70%;
Plants:artificial plant;
Cage location: veranda,away street 100m;
Problem: egg bound ,soft hull eggs

 

[kinyonga]

You said..."the first time didn't lay egg in nest, also 15 soft hull egg like this picture"...the chameleon is obviously having some problems. Did you provide her with a place to dig/lay the eggs the first time?

Can you post some pictures of her please?

It would be best to have real non-toxic plants that have been well washed on both sides of the leaves in her cage. Veiled chameleons will eat plants and greens and vegetables sometimes. If she ate an artificial leaf, it would not be good for her and might cause a blockage in her digestive system.

If she laid the eggs, then she is not really eggbound. If she didn't have a place to lay them the first time it might be that the three big pieces that are in the picture of the eggs were retained. (As you know, I'm not a vet and can only assume this.)

Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you and your parents to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/