Supplements

[Slyfox]

I'm just a little confused as to what I should be dusting on locust every feed... These are the two supplements I have at the moment

Front:


Back:


And this

Front:


Back:


The first is calci-dust a high calcium dusting powder 150g contents per gram 400mg calcium.. Is calcium d3?

The other is nutrobal a calcium balancer and multivitamin supplement

Which one of these do I use to dust every feed or do I need something else too.. Neither really explain how to use it.. If you can read the backs from the pics?




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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=52.456621,-2.072954

 

[kinyonga]

No...calcium is not D3. The chameleon needs D3 in order to use the calcium though. If the chameleon is exposed to UVB from a proper UVB bulb or from direct sunlight it will produce D3 and as long as it can move in and out of the UVB it shouldn't lead to an overdose of D3. D3 from supplements is ready to go and can build up in the system so we only dust with a phos.-free calcium powder with D3 in it twice a month and we use a phos.-free calcium powder without D3 at the rest of the feedings except for two feedings at which we give the chameleon vitamins.

Here's some information I hope will help explain it all....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.

Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.

Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.

 

[Slyfox]

Thanks for the info.. So the calci-dust I should be using for every feed? It says a "pure natural calcium compound - ground super fine for maximum digestibility and to stick to all foods.

It's 150g contents per from 400mg calcium.. Use this ever feed yes?


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=52.456651,-2.072900

 

[sandrachameleon]

generally The nutribol can be used a couple times a week, and the calcium the other days, as needed. Depends on type of chameleon, its age and sex, what you are feeding the chameleon (locust and?) and what you feed the feeders.
I agree with everything Kinyonga has provided.
More Info: https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/65-supplements.html