Your baby looks a little dehydrated.
The retained sperm plugs are a symptom of Vitamin A deficiency, which I think is a pretty big problem with captive chameleons, especially captive bred ones. I've never seen a sperm plug hanging from any one of my many adult males chameleons. I believe the reason is because all but two of my male chameleons were hatched or grew up in the wild and their mothers had a perfect diet so the egg they hatched out of would have been very nutrient rich, which is not the case for captive bred veileds. Many of the vitamin powders use Beta Carotene which a chameleon doesn't convert to Vitamin A. The vitamin powders that actually do contain Vitamin A begin to deteriorate as soon as they are opened (if not before) and last at most 6 months in the refrigerator. I use human Vitamin A gel caps and put a drop from a 8000 IU Vitamin A cap on a feeder once a month. I am thinking of doing it twice a month and for some I do. I am hesitant to write what I do since there is more to Vitamin A than just Vitamin A and I haven't read all the research. I have also bought some injectable Vitamin A (with Vitamin E included I think) from my vet but am not sure of the dosage to give (she gave me a dosage but I question what the vet tech wrote down because the math just doesn't add up) and am unsure of the strength since she didn't sell me a vial of it, just a syringe full to inject into feeders. With all the usual caveats, I think there is so much Vitamin A deficiency in captive chameleons, I am going to take the position that a drop of human-grade Vitamin A (NOT Beta Carotene) from a 8000 IU human gel cap on a feeder once a month will not do any harm. But, of course, it might.
I also think that an automatic misting system is a necessity for every pet chameleon. Hand misting is just not the same as a mister going on and fogging the place for a few minutes several times a day. I rarely if ever see my chameleons drink. In fact, if I do I think they must be sick or dehydrated. It seem to me that my chameleons seem to breath in the water rather than actively drink exept after something like laying a clutch of eggs.
You mention that your chameleon is "unbothered/un-agitated" by a light on at night. I don't think you understand the dynamics of stress in captive chameleons. Stress is not something you or I can see. It is a physiological response of the chameleon. It is internal. It is the balance of stress hormones in the blood stream. You cannot see that. You might find somewhere down the line that your chameleons gets sick or just doesn't so well. You won't be able to connect that illness to the chronic low grade stress of a light at night. Stress suppresses the immune system. There is a reason that people who handle their chameleons a lot have chameleons that tend to die prematurely or become ill often. A chameleon's immune system keeps it healthy, not a vet's intervention.
You do not need to add heat at night. The only time I think you might need a heat source at night is if you lived in an igloo and I really doubt that is the case. Really, if the house is warm enough for humans, it is most certainly warm enough for a veiled chameleon at night. You don't need a ceramic heat emitter at night for a veiled. A regular light bulb will be enough during the day.
I hope that helps you as you obviously adore your little guy.
.
