Sorry for asking this again, but Gravid?

userBandit

Member
She looks plump and like she might be ready to lay eggs. She has been walking on the screen a lot lately but she has a lay bin plenty big enough and it’s 7” deep! Why won’t she lay the eggs? She isn’t stressed either as you can see lol plenty of foliage and branches to get in and out of her bin. It’s a perm part of enclosure.

1EE66807-A5F6-40B4-ABAD-41649C06D240.jpeg

15F69C53-BB5C-473D-A70D-B810E2915A99.jpeg
 

userBandit

Member
I’d like to add she has tons of privacy during the day while I’m at work. She’s in my room where nobody really bothers her.
 

userBandit

Member
Is she ever displaying yellow or green colors?
I mean... she is always green. She has never showed the yellow receptive colors. She sometimes gives off these spots of lighter and darker greens. See my profile picture she shows this off in it. Ill get a better picture tomorrow when she is awake.
 

userBandit

Member
If she is climbing around and making laps around the enclosure she is probably receptive vs gravid. In the pic she does not look too big.
Is receptive and gravid different? If so, please explain to me. New at this egg laying thing and I want it to go just right!
 

janjan20

Chameleon Enthusiast
Yes they are different I was confused at first too lol! Receptive is a period when they are looking for a mate. Gravid Is after they mate or after the receptive period and start producing eggs. Now I have been told and experienced that they may reabsorb the eggs since they didn’t mate. My girl was receptive back in Oct and never laid eggs. I monitored her weight weekly after she stopped climbing around her enclosure. Of course temps and feeding play a role too.
 

userBandit

Member
Yes they are different I was confused at first too lol! Receptive is a period when they are looking for a mate. Gravid Is after they mate or after the receptive period and start producing eggs. Now I have been told and experienced that they may reabsorb the eggs since they didn’t mate. My girl was receptive back in Oct and never laid eggs. I monitored her weight weekly after she stopped climbing around her enclosure. Of course temps and feeding play a role too.
She has to be around a year old. I got her in October as a little tiny thing, she fit on my pointer finger!

She eats 3 or 4 superworms ever other day as of now. Is that too many for superworms? They are also quite large. Maybe I should cut down on them?
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
She has to be around a year old. I got her in October as a little tiny thing, she fit on my pointer finger!

She eats 3 or 4 superworms ever other day as of now. Is that too many for superworms? They are also quite large. Maybe I should cut down on them?
Superworms shouldn’t be staples, only treats. Do you have proper lay bin set-up and in her enclosure? Here is a link for the most accurate and up-to-date veiled care:
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
Also, we can review your husbandry, if you want to. Here’s a lay bin info image:
 

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ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
Could you send me the husbandry form? As in paste it here i'd be more than happy to fill it out.
Sure! Make sure to fill it out with as much detail as possible and to post clear pics of her, her lights, and her entire enclosure (lights to bottom):
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 

userBandit

Member
@ERKleRose
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, unknown of her age I got her from Petco.
  • Handling - I rarely handle her. When I do handle her, I let her come to me on her own terms and it is mostly when I have her favorite buggies lol.
  • Feeding - I feed my chameleon superworms. She gets anywhere between 3-4 medium/large sized superworms every other day. I gut load her bugs by tossing in some collard greens, blueberries, carrots, cucumber, and apples. I store the superworms in a plastic tub container with air holes.
  • Supplements - I dust her insects each feeding with calcium with no d3 and a repti vitamin from ReptiMed each month. The calcium w/o d3 is the stuff from the ZooMed kit.
  • Watering - I mist her leaves with lukewarm water, and I always see her drinking the droplets of water right after and during I mist. I mist her herself too but I don't over do it.
  • Fecal Description - Her poop is moist looking with a little white urate thing. It sometimes has a yellowish color but that is just every here and there and only half of it.
  • History - Due to me getting her from Petco, I have little knowledge of things like her age, heritage, etc. I suspect she is 10 months or a year old. Possibly less but idk.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Custom build wooden cage with mesh screen. It is 4ft tall and 3ft wide.
  • Lighting - I use the ReptiBasking bulb 100W and her basking spot is 80-85 degrees. I also use the ReptiSun T5 10.0 Linear as a uvb.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - Humidity levels are about 50%-60%
  • Plants - She has 85% real plants in her enclosure. One pothos plant, 4 Mass Cane trees, all real branches, and the rest are fake leaves to add foliage. I haven't caught her eating leaves so I am not too concerned about that.
  • Placement - From floor to top of her cage, it is between 5.5-6ft tall because it has built in legs. It is in my bedroom where nobody really bothers her. All of my family is scared of her so they never mess with her either.
  • Location - Ohio, United States.
Old pic of her enclosure, I added two more mass cane after this for foliage.

13A0A707-50B5-4BC5-9FF6-EADEF2CDE21A.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Gingero

Chameleon Enthusiast
Please watch the video about egg laying below. It shows examples of what a receptive and gravid chameleon look like.

Here is some feedback/suggestions:

1. Superworms are not very nutritional and should only be fed as treats. Please try to diversify her bugs to include things like crickets, dubia roaches, silkworms, BSFL, etc.
2. Does your multivitamin have D3 in it?
3. How often are you misting?
4. Lower her temps to 80F. Higher temps = more eggs.
5. Since you have a 4ft tall enclosure, you'll want to switch to a 5.0 T5 HO UVB
6. Humidity is on the high side. Should be closer to 30-40%
7. I would add in WAY more branches and plants. Any empty space is unused space.

Here are some helpful videos:









 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
My feedback and any questions will be in red. I’ll post helpful links and care images at the bottom:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, unknown of her age I got her from Petco.
  • Handling - I rarely handle her. When I do handle her, I let her come to me on her own terms and it is mostly when I have her favorite buggies lol.
  • Feeding - I feed my chameleon superworms. She gets anywhere between 3-4 medium/large sized superworms every other day. I gut load her bugs by tossing in some collard greens, blueberries, carrots, cucumber, and apples. I store the superworms in a plastic tub container with air holes. You need a variety of healthy feeder insects to feed her ASAP! Superworms should only be used as treats. Also keep in mind there should be no one staple feeder, but have a variety of multiple types of healthy feeders to rotate through. Your bugs could use a more varied gutload, too. Variety for bugs and gutload is key! I’ve posted feeder and gutload pics below. Her age will determine how many feeders to give and how often to feed her. I’ll let someone else tell you her age because I suck at it.
  • Supplements - I dust her insects each feeding with calcium with no d3 and a repti vitamin from ReptiMed each month. The calcium w/o d3 is the stuff from the ZooMed kit. I have no idea what ReptiMed is. Does it have D3 in it? Does it contain preformed or proformed Vitamin A? She needs either a quality phosphorus-free calcium without D3 every feeding and a quality multivitamin with D3 once every two weeks or a quality phosphorus-free calcium without D3 every feeding, a quality phosphorus-free calcium with D3 once every two weeks, and a quality multivitamin without D3 once every two weeks.
  • Watering - I mist her leaves with lukewarm water, and I always see her drinking the droplets of water right after and during I mist. I mist her herself too but I don't over do it. Only use room temperature water. How long do you mist her for? It should be a minimum of 2-5+ minutes long for each daytime misting. Try to only mist her twice a day for her daytime mistings when her cage is cooler, once in the morning and once late afternoon/night.
  • Fecal Description - Her poop is moist looking with a little white urate thing. It sometimes has a yellowish color but that is just every here and there and only half of it. Take her to an experienced chameleon vet and get bloodwork, x-rays, and a fecal float (take a fresh fecal sample with you), etc, done. Also drop off at least 2-3+ fresh fecal samples afterwards to make sure no parasites were missed.
  • History - Due to me getting her from Petco, I have little knowledge of things like her age, heritage, etc. I suspect she is 10 months or a year old. Possibly less but idk. Definitely go to an experienced chameleon vet if she’s from Petco!

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Custom build wooden cage with mesh screen. It is 4ft tall and 3ft wide. How deep is her cage? Does she have a proper and permanent lay bin in her enclosure? Can she get in and out of the lay bin with ease? She needs TONS (like seriously way more) live plants, vines, and branches ASAP! I’ve posted two links for cage set-ups below.
  • Lighting - I use the ReptiBasking bulb 100W and her basking spot is 80-85 degrees. I also use the ReptiSun T5 10.0 Linear as a uvb. Her basking spot is too hot, it should be 78-80*F at the max. It should be measured with a digital thermometer with a probe where her casque/top of her back is when she‘s on her basking branch. How far away is her heat bulb from her basking branch? How old is her 10.0 UVB bulb, and how far away from it is her basking branch?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? These are crucial, so please fill them out!
  • Humidity - Humidity levels are about 50%-60% Her daytime humidity levels should be between 30-50% and up to 100% at night. What do you use to measure them? Do you you use a fogger/humidifier? Is so, what type, how often do you clean it, and when do you use it?
  • Plants - She has 85% real plants in her enclosure. One pothos plant, 4 Mass Cane trees, all real branches, and the rest are fake leaves to add foliage. I haven't caught her eating leaves so I am not too concerned about that. She needs 100% live plants only! No fake plants, fake leaf bunches, fake vines with leaves on them, etc. so take all of them out ASAP! They are an impaction risk for veileds! Only chameleon-safe live plants, real live/dead vines and/or fake vines without leaves on them (though no Exo Terra vines), and branches of multiple species and diameters (just not from any toxic or sap-producing trees) should be used! Make sure all of her live plants are cleaned properly beforehand and all soil in the pots is covered with rocks too big for her eat!
  • Placement - From floor to top of her cage, it is between 5.5-6ft tall because it has built in legs. It is in my bedroom where nobody really bothers her. All of my family is scared of her so they never mess with her either.
  • Location - Ohio, United States.
Old pic of her enclosure, I added two more mass cane after this for foliage. She needs more trees with usable branches and plants that vine in her enclosure.

Here are the links and images (read through every module and listen to as many podcasts as possible from The Chameleon Academy, they have the most up-to-date and accurate info!):

https://www.chameleons.info/en/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/
https://flchams.com/chameleon-safe-plant-list/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/external-resources/
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://chameleonacademy.com/setting-up-a-chameleon-cage/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/2012/04/how-to-set-up-proper-chameleon.html
 

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userBandit

Member
Please watch the video about egg laying below. It shows examples of what a receptive and gravid chameleon look like.

Here is some feedback/suggestions:

1. Superworms are not very nutritional and should only be fed as treats. Please try to diversify her bugs to include things like crickets, dubia roaches, silkworms, BSFL, etc.
2. Does your multivitamin have D3 in it?
3. How often are you misting?
4. Lower her temps to 80F. Higher temps = more eggs.
5. Since you have a 4ft tall enclosure, you'll want to switch to a 5.0 T5 HO UVB
6. Humidity is on the high side. Should be closer to 30-40%
7. I would add in WAY more branches and plants. Any empty space is unused space.

Here are some helpful videos:









omg hi i love your youtube channel and neptune is so beautiful!!

I will start getting some dubia roaches, but her superworms ARE gut-loaded with lots of nutritional items. Even after this they still arent that nutritious?
The multi vitamin is the one that comes in the chameleon kit in the little orange packet. I am un aware of its contents i just know it is a multi vitamin.
I will also work on her temperature when she wakes up in the morning x
She doesn't spend any time really at the bottom of the cage, so doesn't she still get the uvb she needs when she is up on her branches close to the uvb?
How can I lower humidity?
I've added more trees and branches since that photo was taken, I juts didn't want to disturb her sleep to take an updated photo.
 

userBandit

Member
My feedback and any questions will be in red. I’ll post helpful links and care images at the bottom:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, unknown of her age I got her from Petco.
  • Handling - I rarely handle her. When I do handle her, I let her come to me on her own terms and it is mostly when I have her favorite buggies lol.
  • Feeding - I feed my chameleon superworms. She gets anywhere between 3-4 medium/large sized superworms every other day. I gut load her bugs by tossing in some collard greens, blueberries, carrots, cucumber, and apples. I store the superworms in a plastic tub container with air holes. You need a variety of healthy feeder insects to feed her ASAP! Superworms should only be used as treats. Also keep in mind there should be no one staple feeder, but have a variety of multiple types of healthy feeders to rotate through. Your bugs could use a more varied gutload, too. Variety for bugs and gutload is key! I’ve posted feeder and gutload pics below. Her age will determine how many feeders to give and how often to feed her. I’ll let someone else tell you her age because I suck at it.
  • Supplements - I dust her insects each feeding with calcium with no d3 and a repti vitamin from ReptiMed each month. The calcium w/o d3 is the stuff from the ZooMed kit. I have no idea what ReptiMed is. Does it have D3 in it? Does it contain preformed or proformed Vitamin A? She needs either a quality phosphorus-free calcium without D3 every feeding and a quality multivitamin with D3 once every two weeks or a quality phosphorus-free calcium without D3 every feeding, a quality phosphorus-free calcium with D3 once every two weeks, and a quality multivitamin without D3 once every two weeks.
  • Watering - I mist her leaves with lukewarm water, and I always see her drinking the droplets of water right after and during I mist. I mist her herself too but I don't over do it. Only use room temperature water. How long do you mist her for? It should be a minimum of 2-5+ minutes long for each daytime misting. Try to only mist her twice a day for her daytime mistings when her cage is cooler, once in the morning and once late afternoon/night.
  • Fecal Description - Her poop is moist looking with a little white urate thing. It sometimes has a yellowish color but that is just every here and there and only half of it. Take her to an experienced chameleon vet and get bloodwork, x-rays, and a fecal float (take a fresh fecal sample with you), etc, done. Also drop off at least 2-3+ fresh fecal samples afterwards to make sure no parasites were missed.
  • History - Due to me getting her from Petco, I have little knowledge of things like her age, heritage, etc. I suspect she is 10 months or a year old. Possibly less but idk. Definitely go to an experienced chameleon vet if she’s from Petco!

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Custom build wooden cage with mesh screen. It is 4ft tall and 3ft wide. How deep is her cage? Does she have a proper and permanent lay bin in her enclosure? Can she get in and out of the lay bin with ease? She needs TONS (like seriously way more) live plants, vines, and branches ASAP! I’ve posted two links for cage set-ups below.
  • Lighting - I use the ReptiBasking bulb 100W and her basking spot is 80-85 degrees. I also use the ReptiSun T5 10.0 Linear as a uvb. Her basking spot is too hot, it should be 78-80*F at the max. It should be measured with a digital thermometer with a probe where her casque/top of her back is when she‘s on her basking branch. How far away is her heat bulb from her basking branch? How old is her 10.0 UVB bulb, and how far away from it is her basking branch?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? These are crucial, so please fill them out!
  • Humidity - Humidity levels are about 50%-60% Her daytime humidity levels should be between 30-50% and up to 100% at night. What do you use to measure them? Do you you use a fogger/humidifier? Is so, what type, how often do you clean it, and when do you use it?
  • Plants - She has 85% real plants in her enclosure. One pothos plant, 4 Mass Cane trees, all real branches, and the rest are fake leaves to add foliage. I haven't caught her eating leaves so I am not too concerned about that. She needs 100% live plants only! No fake plants, fake leaf bunches, fake vines with leaves on them, etc. so take all of them out ASAP! They are an impaction risk for veileds! Only chameleon-safe live plants, real live/dead vines and/or fake vines without leaves on them (though no Exo Terra vines), and branches of multiple species and diameters (just not from any toxic or sap-producing trees) should be used! Make sure all of her live plants are cleaned properly beforehand and all soil in the pots is covered with rocks too big for her eat!
  • Placement - From floor to top of her cage, it is between 5.5-6ft tall because it has built in legs. It is in my bedroom where nobody really bothers her. All of my family is scared of her so they never mess with her either.
  • Location - Ohio, United States.
Old pic of her enclosure, I added two more mass cane after this for foliage. She needs more trees with usable branches and plants that vine in her enclosure.

Here are the links and images (read through every module and listen to as many podcasts as possible from The Chameleon Academy, they have the most up-to-date and accurate info!):

https://www.chameleons.info/en/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/
https://flchams.com/chameleon-safe-plant-list/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/external-resources/
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://chameleonacademy.com/setting-up-a-chameleon-cage/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/2012/04/how-to-set-up-proper-chameleon.html
Sorry, I answered a LOT of what you've just asked already in a previous reply/thread.
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
omg hi i love your youtube channel and neptune is so beautiful!!

I will start getting some dubia roaches, but her superworms ARE gut-loaded with lots of nutritional items. Even after this they still arent that nutritious?
The multi vitamin is the one that comes in the chameleon kit in the little orange packet. I am un aware of its contents i just know it is a multi vitamin.
I will also work on her temperature when she wakes up in the morning x
She doesn't spend any time really at the bottom of the cage, so doesn't she still get the uvb she needs when she is up on her branches close to the uvb?
How can I lower humidity?
I've added more trees and branches since that photo was taken, I juts didn't want to disturb her sleep to take an updated photo.
Superworms are too fatty (which isn’t always bad thing but not meant for everyday or constantly), but mainly they have a lot of chitin, plus can become addictive. Pick from the healthy staple feeders instead for main feeders to use. Use the calcium without D3 every feeding and the supplement that came in the kit (which is Zoo Med Reptivite with D3) once every two weeks. You can lower humidity by using a whole room dehumidifier, which will lower cage levels
Sorry, I answered a LOT of what you've just asked already in a previous reply/thread.
Could you possibly post them on this thread, please?
 
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