Some readings.

Today I took some readings on a 18" linear tube fixture. I wanted to give people an idea of what to expect with some real world application. The two lamps I tested have about 1.5-2 months of use on the clock (UVB output drops as the lamp ages). The reflector aluminum foil from the kitchen. You will see two different readings if the shiny side is face up or if the more dull side is face up. the dull side works better.

I did 8 readings at 6" from the lamp. When using the screen to cover the fixture I measured 5.5" from the screen since the lamp sits half an inch from the screen.

5.0 Zoo Med Reptisun lamp:

  1. Without reflector
  2. with reflector
  3. without reflector and with screen
  4. with reflector and with screen

10.0 Zoo Med Reptisun lamp:


  1. Without reflector
  2. with reflector
  3. without reflector, with screen
  4. with reflector, with screen

Here are the readings from the 5.0 lamp:

(Sorry the meter reading is upside down....)

Without reflector, 26:

IMG_9602.jpg


With reflector, 51:

IMG_9601.jpg


Without reflector and screen, 18:

IMG_9604.jpg


With reflector and screen, 34:

IMG_9605.jpg




Here are the readings from the 10.0 lamp:

Without reflector, 52:

IMG_9612.jpg


With reflector, 110:

IMG_9610.jpg


Without reflector and with screen, 35:

IMG_9614.jpg


With reflector and with screen, 67:

IMG_9615.jpg
 
Cool, good to see your still putting in work on this. What is it again that we shoot for as output? 15-30?
 
First off, I dont like to read. Secondly, I was baffled as to how you got an E and L in your readings. LOL I seriously had to go back and relook, so thank you for the brain strain.;)

Overall, thank you for the information!!!!
 
Great info, so you say the dull side of the aluminum foil works better than the shiny side eh? I guess I'll be flipping my foil. haha
 
To give you an idea what some of this means head to the UV Guide website and read the 'what UV light do reptiles need' page. And, sorry Amanda, there is a lot of reading there... but its right-side-up... you won't see an 3's or 7's ;):D

And thank you guys for the compliments. Dave's meter is so much fun to play with. :D

I'm excited to get one :D
Gary said he should get them in about a week. When I get mine I'm gonna test out my cage. Instead of normal screen on the top I have some Chickenwire-ish material with 1/4" spaces so more light doesn't get blocked out. I'll post the results if you don't mind on here.

and BTW thanks for the worms, my chams had never seen a silkie before. Needless to say, they went crazy for 'em :p
 
I'm excited to get one :D
Gary said he should get them in about a week. When I get mine I'm gonna test out my cage. Instead of normal screen on the top I have some Chickenwire-ish material with 1/4" spaces so more light doesn't get blocked out. I'll post the results if you don't mind on here.

and BTW thanks for the worms, my chams had never seen a silkie before. Needless to say, they went crazy for 'em :p

With the wider mesh there is more light and UVB coming into the cage.

The example above shows how intense even a T8 18" 10.0 can be. EVEN with screen over it to cut the power down. People using 10.0 lamps really should be aware of their output. Now when I say how intense a T8 18" 10.0 I am not implying that the output of that lamp versus a 48" T12 10.0 will be different. I do imagine that if someone didn't really know much about lighting that they might just think 'bigger is better' and it isn't. Not all lamps are created equal at the factory, which is why owning a meter is important. The general rule of thumb that a 10.0 should be the same output as the next 10.0 no matter the size... but this isn't always true.
 
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