Some Questions I Have

I have a Jackson Chameleon I am not sure how old the store never told me.
I just have some questions about him all feed back would be really helpful
1. Should I turn off his lamp at night
I usually do this from like 8am-8pm just want to know if this is actually ok.
2. He opens his mouth every once and a while I want to know of this okay/normal or not
3. He doesn't mind being held I know they are a look don't touch but he likes to be out of his cage every once and awhile should I hold him as much as I do though?
4. Sometimes he wont eat for a week but the next week he eats all his crickets up is this normal?
Again all feed back is helpful
 
@JacksJill should be able to answer some of this better than I can!

Lights should all be off at night. 8 am to 8 pm on should be fine.

When does he open his mouth? When under the basking light? When he sees you. Or when?
He opens his mouth at random moments
Sometimes when he sees my mom and in his cage under his light
 
If he does it while under the light he might be too hot there and he should move.

If he does it for people, it's just his reacting to the person.

(If he does it and the saliva is stringy and he's making popping noises then it could be a respiratory infection..just to let you know what to watch for.)
 
1. Should I turn off his lamp at night Yes he needs 12 hours of darkness
I usually do this from like 8am-8pm just want to know if this is actually ok. Yes a regular schedule is a good thing
2. He opens his mouth every once and a while I want to know of this okay/normal or not There could be a few reasons some normal some a big problem. If his temps are to high he might gape to cool himself. Sometimes they yawn to loosen skin before a shed or it could be a sign of a respiratory infection. It would be good to do a husbandry review to find out which it is.
3. He doesn't mind being held I know they are a look don't touch but he likes to be out of his cage every once and awhile should I hold him as much as I do though? If his cage is too hot he may be eager to come out and escape if your temps are in line and he walks on to your hand willingly once in a while (weekly) is ok but he's not getting UVB while out of his cage unless you are outside. He must climb on you of his own free will with no coaxing.
4. Sometimes he wont eat for a week but the next week he eats all his crickets up is this normal? Not really he should have a consistent appetite with only a small variation a husbandry review could sort this out as well.

Here are the review questions.


Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Just to follow this up...

My experience has been that Jackson’s do well with only 2-3 hours of basking in the AM—say 9am-11am/12pm. And the basking temp needn’t be hotter than 80. I have found that my Jackson’s do really well when they are given a significant nightime temp drop, into the 50s at least. When I see gaping in Jackson’s, I always check: a) temps - ambients in the low 70’s; b) daytime humidity -I like things to dry out and hit RHs of 40-50; c) TGI - temperal gland infection.

A) is an easy fix, dial in your temps
B) is important, as consistently humid/wet daytime conditions seems to be linked with respiratory infection, which can cause gaping
C) TGIs are common enough in Jackson’s. Look for green, cheesy discharge at the corner of their mouths.

Last, it’s always worth it to make a wellness appointment with your Cham vet.
 
1. Should I turn off his lamp at night Yes he needs 12 hours of darkness
I usually do this from like 8am-8pm just want to know if this is actually ok. Yes a regular schedule is a good thing
2. He opens his mouth every once and a while I want to know of this okay/normal or not There could be a few reasons some normal some a big problem. If his temps are to high he might gape to cool himself. Sometimes they yawn to loosen skin before a shed or it could be a sign of a respiratory infection. It would be good to do a husbandry review to find out which it is.
3. He doesn't mind being held I know they are a look don't touch but he likes to be out of his cage every once and awhile should I hold him as much as I do though? If his cage is too hot he may be eager to come out and escape if your temps are in line and he walks on to your hand willingly once in a while (weekly) is ok but he's not getting UVB while out of his cage unless you are outside. He must climb on you of his own free will with no coaxing.
4. Sometimes he wont eat for a week but the next week he eats all his crickets up is this normal? Not really he should have a consistent appetite with only a small variation a husbandry review could sort this out as well.

Here are the review questions.


Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
Jackson Chameleon Male
I hold him twice a week
I feed him Crickets he usually eats 3-4 whole inch crickets
Eats every other day but I do put at least a cricket even if he isn't hungry
I use Repti-Calcium with D3 I dust Crickets once a week
I use a water fountain and mist his cage 3 times a day with warm water. I see him drink every night before I turn off his lights
His poop usually is brown looks kinda like a wet raisin and the white part always come out watery
I don't think hes had any problems before
He has been in my care for a couple of months
He cage is about 2 feet tall Glass
He has a basking light right now I am currently trying to get a UVB one as well
I am not sure how you can check humidity and I have a thermometer on its way from Amazon to check how hot it gets
I use fake leafs from Magoos pet outlet
His cage is on top of a filing cabinet in my closet not near any vents or fans not in a high traffic area he is 54 inches from the floor
I live in the united states in Michigan
I hope this information helps
 

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Just to follow this up...

My experience has been that Jackson’s do well with only 2-3 hours of basking in the AM—say 9am-11am/12pm. And the basking temp needn’t be hotter than 80. I have found that my Jackson’s do really well when they are given a significant nightime temp drop, into the 50s at least. When I see gaping in Jackson’s, I always check: a) temps - ambients in the low 70’s; b) daytime humidity -I like things to dry out and hit RHs of 40-50; c) TGI - temperal gland infection.

A) is an easy fix, dial in your temps
B) is important, as consistently humid/wet daytime conditions seems to be linked with respiratory infection, which can cause gaping
C) TGIs are common enough in Jackson’s. Look for green, cheesy discharge at the corner of their mouths.

Last, it’s always worth it to make a wellness appointment with your Cham vet.
Ok thanks I'll see if I can make an appointment
 
He only shows one sign of respiratory infection.
The mouth opening he doesn't have crust in his mouth. He doesn't have any visable mucus. He doesn't make bubbles or anything.
 
He only shows one sign of respiratory infection.
The mouth opening he doesn't have crust in his mouth. He doesn't have any visable mucus. He doesn't make bubbles or anything.
I am not a vet, so I cannot say either way. If it’s not the beginning signs of an RI, and you get to meet the vet you’ll be dealing with for the next 10 years, then you win! Your vet should catch a TGI and if that’s not it, then just tweak your temps. If it is the beginning signs of an RI, then you’ve caught it soon, and you’ve also met the vet you’ll be dealing with for the next decade: you win here too!
 
I am not a vet, so I cannot say either way. If it’s not the beginning signs of an RI, and you get to meet the vet you’ll be dealing with for the next 10 years, then you win! Your vet should catch a TGI and if that’s not it, then just tweak your temps. If it is the beginning signs of an RI, then you’ve caught it soon, and you’ve also met the vet you’ll be dealing with for the next decade: you win here too!
Ok I'll look into chameleon vets
 
For right now stop giving him D3 weekly it should only be given once monthly to Jackson's this could be affecting his appetite and other things. I will review everything else tomorrow.
 
For right now stop giving him D3 weekly it should only be given once monthly to Jackson's this could be affecting his appetite and other things. I will review everything else tomorrow.
Ok thanks because I looked up the D3 and it said it could cause problems its good to have another source to confirm it thank you for all your help
 
I can't be sure because you don't have temperature measurements yet but your cage is likely way too hot. As Kaizen said Jackson's don't need more than a few hours of basking it varies depending on the temperatures of your house. I'm not anti glass cages but they do hold a lot of heat in. He is likely baking in there. The best thing you can do today is move your light up and away from the cage to lessen the heat. You probably only need a 40 watt bulb like the kind that go around bathroom mirrors most of the year,
There are hygrometer/ thermometer combos that will measure both for you. You don't need a reptile one they are just more expensive. Amazon has all of this including the T5 linear lights and fixture you need ASAP. It's amazing he's gone 2 months without it.
While you are out get a real live plant. It will help you maintain humidity which is going to be an issue with your winters. I recommend pothos see this link https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/plants/ any of the plants on this page except hibiscus is fine.
You may also want to get an ultra sonic cool mist humidifier without a built in timer, just a simple on of switch.

You should read this and the rest of the resources section today. https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/jacksons/ this is a good basic guide but there is even more to learn.
Ask us any specific questions you have.
 
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