Small brown bump / scab / ?? on side

SammieJxne

New Member
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Deku is a veiled chameleon , male, not exactly sure, got him about 2 weeks ago from Petco who said they had him for about 2 weeks before that. He’s still very small.
  • Handling - At least once a day if not twice for 10-30 mins
  • Feeding - He’s currently only eating crickets, tried some mealworms but he wasn’t interested in the slightest. Started giving him crickets free roam but he could never find them, so in fear of him not eating I usually put 2/3 of the crickets in a bowl thats too slick for the crickets to climb out of, with small bits of kale, and he seems to like this WAY more. Gutload crickets w whatever veggies I happen to have
  • Supplements - Dusting crickets with calcium w/o d3 daily, and w/ d3 once a week.
  • Watering - He has a misting system that goes off hourly for 30 seconds for when I’m not home, and monitor humidity when I’m home and hand mist.
  • Fecal Description - Not really the expert at describing chameleon poop but its either brown or white small lumps.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - He has a screen 16x16x30 with a towel draped over the back until i can get some sort of background covering.
  • Lighting - I use a UVB and basking lamp 8-8 and a red light at night.
  • Temperature - Overall cage temp is about 80 F and 95ish at the top basking spot.
  • Humidity - Humidity is 40-60. 50-60 if I’m home. Again, have a misting system that goes off for 30 seconds hourly, and hand mist when home.
  • Placement - Cage is on a wall opposite of large living room near the corner, no fans, air vents, and no one walks to that side of the room unless they’re feeding the fish / over there specifically for him. Top of cage is about eye level
  • Location - Pacific Northwest Washington State

Current Problem - A couple days ago I noticed this weird brown scab-like thing that almost looks like something stuck to Deku’s side. I tried gently rubbing it off with my nail but it didnt budge and I dont want to hurt him. He doesnt seem bothered or affected by it and isn’t acting weird otherwise. Today though I also a noticed a small black dot on his tail. No clue if the two could even be related but I cant find anything anywhere online that looks like the thing on his side, and saw a couple people asking about black spots. Anyone able to help? Pictures attached.
 

Attachments

  • D260AD69-890C-4EC2-A5B9-6599B560E418.jpeg
    D260AD69-890C-4EC2-A5B9-6599B560E418.jpeg
    90.5 KB · Views: 121
  • FF8DD7A6-9DC0-4016-AD17-F4C49F443C22.jpeg
    FF8DD7A6-9DC0-4016-AD17-F4C49F443C22.jpeg
    73.9 KB · Views: 124
  • 6BFC7850-1865-46BE-A6E5-DF17609F4921.jpeg
    6BFC7850-1865-46BE-A6E5-DF17609F4921.jpeg
    72.5 KB · Views: 109
Last edited:

CamoChameleonsHuman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Please see my notes in red and care sheets posted below.

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Deku is a veiled chameleon , male, not exactly sure, got him about 2 weeks ago from Petco who said they had him for about 2 weeks before that. He’s still very small.
  • Handling - At least once a day if not twice for 10-30 mins chameleons aren't really that into being handled. It causes unwanted stress and in some extreme cases that stress can cause sickness. Occasional handling every few days is ok but you will find your veiled, as he gets older, will not tolerate it. However, some do.
  • Feeding - He’s currently only eating crickets, tried some mealworms but he wasn’t interested in the slightest. Started giving him crickets free roam but he could never find them, so in fear of him not eating I usually put 2/3 of the crickets in a bowl thats too slick for the crickets to climb out of, with small bits of kale, and he seems to like this WAY more. Mealworms are a no no anyways. They lack nutritional value and can cause impaction due to being high in ciatin which is hard for our chams to digest. See care sheet on feeders below. Also how are you gutloading your feeders?
  • Supplements - Dusting crickets with calcium w/o d3 daily, and w/ d3 once a week. Dusting regiment for feeders for Veiled chameleons is calcium everyday, calcium + D3 once every 2 weeks, and a multivitamin with preformed vitamin A once every 2 weeks. Also what brands are you using?
  • Watering - He has a misting system that goes off hourly for 30 seconds for when I’m not home, and monitor humidity when I’m home and hand mist. It is suggested to do at least 2min intervals when misting to make sure your chameleon gets the cue to drink. I would do 3-4 hrs 2 min intervals if possible. Do you see him drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Not really the expert at describing chameleon poop but its either brown or white small lumps.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - He has a screen 16x16x30 with a towel draped over the back until i can get some sort of background covering. Veileds grow fast! In no time he will need at least a 2x2x4 enclosure
  • Lighting - I use a UVB and basking lamp 8-8 and a red light at night. No lights at night whatsoever. Chameleons need complete darkness for sleep. They can even take night time temp drops in the mid 50s. Unless his enclosure gets colder then that no lights. If it does get colder than that get a ceramic heat emitter instead (no light) What type of UVB bulb coil or linear? What wattage basking bulb and brand?
  • Temperature - Overall cage temp is about 80 F and 95ish at the top basking spot. How are you measuring this? Also babies are very sensitive to heat. He needs nothing more than 82* at his age.
  • Humidity - Humidity is 40-60. 50-60 if I’m home. Again, have a misting system that goes off for 30 seconds hourly, and hand mist when home. How are you measuring this? Increase night time humidity to 80% this can be done with a ultrasonic cool mist humidifier.
  • Placement - Cage is on a wall opposite of large living room near the corner, no fans, air vents, and no one walks to that side of the room unless they’re feeding the fish / over there specifically for him. Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? Top of cage is about eye level
  • Location - Pacific Northwest Washington State

Current Problem - A couple days ago I noticed this weird brown thing that almost looks like something stuck to Deku’s side. He doesnt seem bothered or affected by it and isn’t acting weird otherwise. Today though I also a noticed a small black dot on his tail. No clue if the two could even be related but I cant find anything anywhere online that looks like the thing on his side, and saw a couple people asking about black spots. Anyone able to help?
This looks to be a possible skin/scale infection he may need to see a vet for a biopsy. I will tag some others to chime in with their thoughts on this as well.
@Beman @Brodybreaux25 @JoXie411 @snitz427
 

Attachments

  • chameleon-food.jpg
    chameleon-food.jpg
    182.8 KB · Views: 50
  • chameleon-gutload.jpg
    chameleon-gutload.jpg
    189.5 KB · Views: 46
  • chameleon-supplements.jpg
    chameleon-supplements.jpg
    203.3 KB · Views: 48
  • chameleon-non-uvb-light.jpg
    chameleon-non-uvb-light.jpg
    184.7 KB · Views: 48
  • chameleon-uvb-light.jpg
    chameleon-uvb-light.jpg
    203.6 KB · Views: 49

SammieJxne

New Member
At least once a day he’ll try to climb onto my hand / arm while im switching out / cleaning the bowl at the bottom of his tank, and never changes color / puffs up and for the most part seems to enjoy being out of his tank. If he ever seems stressed / puffed up I let him do his own thing. Currently gutloading feeders w carrots, kale, and sometimes potatoes. Currently using the supplements that come w a ZooMed kit, was planning on buying more soon as they’re not very big so any recommendations on brands for supplements? Not sure on the brands but I believe the basking lamp is 75 watt and the UVB bulb is a coil until I upgrade his cage in the next 2ish weeks. I have a digital thermometer with a probe, and a digital hygrometer.
 

CamoChameleonsHuman

Chameleon Enthusiast
At least once a day he’ll try to climb onto my hand / arm while im switching out / cleaning the bowl at the bottom of his tank, and never changes color / puffs up and for the most part seems to enjoy being out of his tank. If he ever seems stressed / puffed up I let him do his own thing. Currently gutloading feeders w carrots, kale, and sometimes potatoes. Currently using the supplements that come w a ZooMed kit, was planning on buying more soon as they’re not very big so any recommendations on brands for supplements? Not sure on the brands but I believe the basking lamp is 75 watt and the UVB bulb is a coil until I upgrade his cage in the next 2ish weeks. I have a digital thermometer with a probe, and a digital hygrometer.
Everything that is recommended I attached in the charts for you. Switch out his basking bulb for a 50w and or raise the bulb higher. 95 is just way too hot for a baby. Do you see him opening his mouth while basking a lot? And please remove the red light like right now if possible.
 

SammieJxne

New Member
Everything that is recommended I attached in the charts for you. Switch out his basking bulb for a 50w and or raise the bulb higher. 95 is just way too hot for a baby. Do you see him opening his mouth while basking a lot? And please remove the red light like right now if possible.
Already turned off the red light. But i don’t ever see him opening his mouth while basking, usually stays pretty stationary and darkens up a bit when he’s up there but i’ll definitely try a lower wattage basking bulb. Biggest thing I’m worried about is the brown thing on his side, even though he doesn’t seem bothered by it, its either some kind of growth or lump, or reaally stuck on there. If its something serious I want to take him to the vet ASAP but the nearest reptile vet is almost a 2 hr drive so I dont want to make the drive if it’s nothing to worry about.
 

CamoChameleonsHuman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Already turned of the red light. But i don’t ever see him opening his mouth while basking, usually stays pretty stationary and darkens up a bit when he’s up there but i’ll definitely try a lower wattage basking bulb
Hmmm this is strange. Usually a chameleon that is too warm will lighten in color and gape (hold mouth open) to try and thermoregulate. They don't know to move away from a source that's too warm. You could possibly have a bad thermometer?!?! I always use a laser temp gun to check the temperature that my chameleons are directly. With veileds having such a high casque (especially males) this is usually the warmest spot and the first to get burnt. I take measurements at the top of the casque and top of the back.
 

SammieJxne

New Member
Hmmm this is strange. Usually a chameleon that is too warm will lighten in color and gape (hold mouth open) to try and thermoregulate. They don't know to move away from a source that's too warm. You could possibly have a bad thermometer?!?! I always use a laser temp gun to check the temperature that my chameleons are directly. With veileds having such a high casque (especially males) this is usually the warmest spot and the first to get burnt. I take measurements at the top of the casque and top of the back.
Could just be a cheap thermometer. Im sure amazon has cheap laser ones. Edited my last message about the spot as well if you missed it.
 

CamoChameleonsHuman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Could just be a cheap thermometer. Im sure amazon has cheap laser ones. Edited my last message about the spot as well if you missed it.
Harbor Freight or any auto parts store should have a temp gun for a decent price. You'll learn chameleon keeping isn't as cheap as you thought it might be. These are by far the most interesting yet special needs reptiles I've ever owned. If they weren't so beautiful and cool I would just keep geckos (way cheaper and easier to care for lol). I personally am not a vet nor have I had personal experience with any sick chameleons. If it is as you described however, I would definitely suggest seeing that vet or another vet close by that has chameleon knowledge. Not just any Herp vet will do. These are the exotic of the exotics.
 

CamoChameleonsHuman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Also because of the time of night the people I tagged will probably not be on until morning. We are a community of chameleon keepers here with not one person having the "God Like" knowledge. I, like you, am always learning about these fascinating beasts and their special husbandry care.
 

SammieJxne

New Member
Harbor Freight or any auto parts store should have a temp gun for a decent price. You'll learn chameleon keeping isn't as cheap as you thought it might be. These are by far the most interesting yet special needs reptiles I've ever owned. If they weren't so beautiful and cool I would just keep geckos (way cheaper and easier to care for lol). I personally am not a vet nor have I had personal experience with any sick chameleons. If it is as you described however, I would definitely suggest seeing that vet or another vet close by that has chameleon knowledge. Not just any Herp vet will do. These are the exotic of the exotics.
Oh every extra cent in my life goes towards my pets. If you cant spoil them and give them the best why bother? Currently trying to find a vet closer to me so I wont feel as bad if this is over nothing because I really wanna make sure he’s okay. But I agree! Chameleons are so fascinating, love learning everything that I can about them and how to care for them properly.
 

CamoChameleonsHuman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Oh every extra cent in my life goes towards my pets. If you cant spoil them and give them the best why bother? Currently trying to find a vet closer to me so I wont feel as bad if this is over nothing because I really wanna make sure he’s okay. But I agree! Chameleons are so fascinating, love learning everything that I can about them and how to care for them properly.
Call around in the morning for a Herp vet with chameleon experience and by then you should have more responses on what others think the areas could possibly be on his side and tail. Goodluck with him and welcome to the forums. I hope you stick around.
 

Brodybreaux25

Chameleon Enthusiast
Agree with most above^

Hmmm this is strange. Usually a chameleon that is too warm will lighten in color and gape (hold mouth open) to try and thermoregulate.
He’s not gaping because he’s not overheated. Respectfully, I think your both underestimating his age. Also remember that the temperature guidelines we advocate for are generalized, adult and baby chams are exposed to the same temperatures in the wild. The difference is how they manage it. That said it would sill probably be a good idea to lower the basking temps a bit while your getting everything dialed in as suggested above.

Laser thermometers- while they do have their place in your husbandry, this isn’t it. Lasers measure surface temperature of a given object, like your basking branch, but do not provide an accurate reflection of your ambient temps around your chams body and head/casque. Invest in a QUALITY digital thermometer/hydrometer for this, it’s your most important measuring tool, it has to be reliable.

Onto your reason for this thread, spray him gently with room temp water so both spots get wet, do this a few times over a 20 min period. Then gently pick him up and gently rub each spot with a wet qtip for a few seconds. He won’t like this so it will require some effort on your part, but it’s for his own good. You’d be surprised how many keepers take there chams to the vet for something like this only to have the vet remove it with a qtip. If it won’t come off after this, that’s when I’d say you should get him to a vet.

CCH touched on gutloading above. Respectfully what your currently doing is completely insufficient. A quality gotloading schedule is just as important as your supplement schedule. If you can’t make your own based on the graphics above I’d recommend you pick up Cricket Crack or Bug Burger on Amazon.

Welcome to the forums!
 

SammieJxne

New Member
Agree with most above^


He’s not gaping because he’s not overheated. Respectfully, I think your both underestimating his age. Also remember that the temperature guidelines we advocate for are generalized, adult and baby chams are exposed to the same temperatures in the wild. The difference is how they manage it. That said it would sill probably be a good idea to lower the basking temps a bit while your getting everything dialed in as suggested above.

Laser thermometers- while they do have their place in your husbandry, this isn’t it. Lasers measure surface temperature of a given object, like your basking branch, but do not provide an accurate reflection of your ambient temps around your chams body and head/casque. Invest in a QUALITY digital thermometer/hydrometer for this, it’s your most important measuring tool, it has to be reliable.

Onto your reason for this thread, spray him gently with room temp water so both spots get wet, do this a few times over a 20 min period. Then gently pick him up and gently rub each spot with a wet qtip for a few seconds. He won’t like this so it will require some effort on your part, but it’s for his own good. You’d be surprised how many keepers take there chams to the vet for something like this only to have the vet remove it with a qtip. If it won’t come off after this, that’s when I’d say you should get him to a vet.

CCH touched on gutloading above. Respectfully what your currently doing is completely insufficient. A quality gotloading schedule is just as important as your supplement schedule. If you can’t make your own based on the graphics above I’d recommend you pick up Cricket Crack or Bug Burger on Amazon.

Welcome to the forums!
I ended up sending pics to a vet who said it looked very similar to a cricket bite and to keep an eye on it and apply small amounts of neosporin to soften the bump/scab so it falls off on its own, and it already did! Thankfully theres no mark or scratch underneath where it was so I think he’s okay but still keeping a close eye on him and keeping all of his crickets in a bowl to prevent future problems. Thank you everyone for the help!
 

SammieJxne

New Member
Can’t see that being a cricket bite... he said that about both of them? On the tail too?
They said the thing on his side was a cricket bite, which is the part that came off when it was softened w the neosporin. They said the spot on the tail may be additional trauma from the bites, but since it would be on the tail it doesnt have the same blood flow causing it not to puff up/become raised from the skin. Thankfully i have the next few days off so I’m still keeping a close eye on him taking pics of the dot on his tail when i can to make sure it’s not changing shape / growing. He’s been extremely active lately so he’s definitely not lethargic or acting like he’s hurt/ sick.
 
Top Bottom