Sleeping Flap Neck

luis

New Member
i have a flap necked chameleon and its my first chameleon i have ever owned and i am worried because it sleep all day and night and it only wakes up to move its bearly a baby is that normal because i havnt seen it drink water and i havnt seen it eat neiter AND IF ANYBODY GIVES ADVICE THANKS
 
You haven't given us enough information to really help. Can you fill out the questionaire in the health section under the title "how to ask for help" please?
 
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - flap necked chameleon age about 4 months . been in my care for 4 days
Handling - never took it out scared something might happen. was thinking about taking him outside for some sun
Feeding - put about 5 crickets in the cage but wont eat them .
Supplements - calcium with D3 dusting on the crickets .
Watering - dripper and misting about 4 times each day . and i havnt seen my chameleon drinking water
Fecal Description -regular brown dropping with no liquid and it hasnt been proven for parasites.


Cage Info:
Cage Type -cage is a 10 gallon glass tank has a screen top.
Lighting -using a tube light that is about 50 watts daily lighting schedule is 12hrs day and 12hrs night

Plants - using plastic plants and misting them.
Placement - in a corner of a room it is not that loud a regular room noise and has no fans or A.C.

I WAS THINKING IS IT SAFE TO TAKE HIM OUTSIDE FOR A WHILE TO GET SUN OR IS HE TOO SMALL ? ?
 
Feeding - put about 5 crickets in the cage but wont eat them .
Supplements - calcium with D3 dusting on the crickets .
Watering - dripper and misting about 4 times each day . and i havnt seen my chameleon drinking water
Cage Type -cage is a 10 gallon glass tank has a screen top.
Lighting -using a tube light that is about 50 watts daily lighting schedule is 12hrs day and 12hrs night
Plants - using plastic plants and misting them.

If the crickets are too large (larger than the cham's head is wide) it can't/won't eat them. It is obviously sick (could have been even before you got it) and stressed and probably dehydrated. Dehydrated chams don't eat. Also, loose crickets hide in the cage pretty quickly so confine them in some sort of container. You need to feed the crickets well before they are offered to the cham. Include fresh dark leafy greens, fruit, fortified cereal grains.
Dust the crix with plain calcium (no added D3) each day, dust with calcium WITH D3 about once a week, and dust with a herp vitamin about once every 6 weeks.
You MUST measure the cage temp and humidity. Too hot or too cool will make a sick cham sicker. Tanks are hard to regulate as they tend to get too warm and don't cool off at night either. A cham can get dehydrated from low air humidity even if you spray several times a day. Without knowing the humidity level it will just go downhill.
You must have the correct type of lighting. A low watt basking bulb for heat (a regular house light bulb will work, but again you have to watch the temp in a tank). In addition to the basking bulb you must have a UVB emitting fluorescent tube. The one most of us use is the ReptiSun 5.0. A "regular" white fluorescent tube or a plant growlight won't work. Turn all lights off at night so the cham can cool down for sleep.
Live plants are much better than fakes. They provide humidity and help with air quality especially in a tank. If the cham doesn't have enough cover to hide from view it may just shut down from stress too.
 
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