There is a very nice gutloading blog at the very bottom of the main forum page that will help steer you in the right direction. It provides a lot of good information. There are gutloads that are adequate, you can purchase, such as repashy bug burger and cricket crack. Check out the sponsor, Full Throttle Feeders for cricket crack and Bug Buffet. You can use organic babyfood, such as sweet potato, butternut squash, banana, ones with blueberries, mango, and forth, as a moisture source for gutloading crickets and other feeders. Perhaps fresh produce is best, but when you feed 9-10 bins of feeders, produce gets time consuming and expensive, plus is very seasonal where I live. I do chop fresh produce and cactus pads sometimes, but primarily rely on the babyfood. I'm giving you the easy way to get on the right track, but you can go as far as you have the time and budget for, with gutloading. I make my own gutload and it cost about $250 per 20lbs, so I provided a simpler approach. If you wanted to be in between ready made and self supplemented, take a look at nuts.com and add some of the various fruit powders and healthy flours they have available. Keep in mind, you want you gutload to be higher is veggies and calcium, then fruits, as fruits contain list of phosphorus, which cancel out some of the available calcium.
For montane animals, I really like Dendorcare for dart frogs. It's a gentle vitamin supplement and can be safely used 1-2 per week. I also like to use another supplement that contains Vitamin A, not from beta carotene. Opinions differ on this, but I find PREformed A to be needed and beta carotene sources have been inadequate in many cases. Repashy products are good for this and you can choose one of the many they offer, but use this sparingly and 1-2 times per month. A good rule, I follow is to only supplement 3-4 times a week and on about 1/3 of the feeders offered at a time. Other than those products, plain calcium is needed, 1-2 times a week. Dendrocare and many repashy products will have calcium in them, so no need to double up.
Yes, leave the fan on for air circulation, if you feel the air is stale and heavy, but likely it is just fine.
As for the plant situation, you could utilize a hanging or vining plant, such as pothos or faux foliage to add cover. You will find hibiscus difficult to maintain indoors, in a chameleon cage. They like much more light than should be offered to the chameleon. Schefflera, ficus, aralias, crotons, and similar "houseplants" are a bit easier to find and take medium light.
If you are using UVA and UVB already, your lighting may be adequate. My opinions and knowledge regarding lighting is pretty complex and above and beyond adequate and I'd prefer not to overwhelm you, as I light for my plantings, as much as for the chameleons. Lightyourreptiles.com can provide you customized support on what is ideal/adequate for your set-up and species. I'd suggest you shoot him an email or given him a call and compare notes on what you currently are using and what he recommends. He is less a salesmen and more an educator and he offers everything you could need.
@Venutus1
I would highly, highly recommend investing in a mist system. At the very least, a pressurize hand sprayer that will mist and spray for 5 mins, when the handle is set, needs to be used up to 3 times per day. It is obvious why your lack of a drainage system that you are not supplying enough water, because your cage floor and household floor would quickly be overwhelmed by the amount of water that the chameleon should be getting.
There is a stick thread, under the enclosures section that has some ideas for handling drainage. Hope this helps.
