JackRipper
Avid Member
Oh man flash backs of when i had to pop the heads off meal worms and squeeze the guts out into an extremely emaciated waterdargons mouth. I was able to save the little guy.
Sick Veiled Cham
- Thread starter Ethantrombone16
- Start date
We gotta do what we gotta do.
Ethantrombone16
New Member
Unfortunately it is not but we could put him in front of a window
JackRipper
Avid Member
The glass would block most of the beneficial effects. Kind've a pickle
Wow I just read through your entire thread. @Brodybreaux25 really nailed it. Your boy is absolutely obese. This causes so many issues for them internally. The last place they show fat is in their casque and cheeks. Which means internally he has way too much of it wrapping around his organs. The fact that a vet would tell you that he was underweight is mind boggling. I really hope you found a new vet and are not getting your care recommendations from the same one.
Humidity is too high. You need it max 50% during the day and ideally between 30-40%. He is at risk of a respiratory infection with the humidity staying high and you misting every hour. Why did you decide to start misting every hour?
Can you post pics of the entire enclosure lights down?
Humidity is too high. You need it max 50% during the day and ideally between 30-40%. He is at risk of a respiratory infection with the humidity staying high and you misting every hour. Why did you decide to start misting every hour?
Can you post pics of the entire enclosure lights down?
Brodybreaux25
Chameleon Enthusiast
You feeling OK? lol Thank you.
Brodybreaux25
Chameleon Enthusiast
So where do you live? This vet is going to kill your Cham. We will help you find another.
Respectfully, why are you thanking us? We’ve accomplished nothing. You still have a long way to go before congratulations are called for.
Respectfully, why are you thanking us? We’ve accomplished nothing. You still have a long way to go before congratulations are called for.
Also...once again....In the other thread you also said you were dusting with a vitamin powder with vitamin A ...is the vitamin A prOformed (beta carotene) or prEformed (palmitate, retinol, etc)?
This could be part of the bone issue which is why I'm asking.
It's not going to do the chameleon much good if you give it calcium to help it's bones but don't balance the calcium, phosphorous, vitamin A and the D3 and gutload properly to keep it balanced.
This could be part of the bone issue which is why I'm asking.
It's not going to do the chameleon much good if you give it calcium to help it's bones but don't balance the calcium, phosphorous, vitamin A and the D3 and gutload properly to keep it balanced.
Ethantrombone16
New Member
Hey guys,
Update time. We are currently sitting at the vets office, my girlfriend had made an appointment with the vet we had been seeing against my wishes. Dvorak has not been getting better. But he has not been regressing. We are getting another liquid calcium to feed him, as well as an antibiotic, more as a precautionary measure than anything.
In terms of husbandry, he has been moved to a 18”x 18”x 36” screen cage, plenty of real and artificial foliage to provide cover. His basking spot is right around 87, anbient being about 76, at night it drops to about 65 (all in degrees Fahrenheit). He is still refusing food, although ive been able to sneak an apple and a large roach in while he is gaping at me. He chewed really well and swallowed with no issue. Everything he has eaten has been dusted with the calcium with loD. But in about a week he has only eaten that.
I am in the Southeast side of Iowa, would anyone know of a good vet to see in that area? Obviously im willing to travel a ways.
And I say thank you so frequently because you are continuing to provide good information and support, and you seem to care for the animal, which no one else seems to do. Im trying to do the best I can for Dvorak, and you all make it easier to understand and accomplish.
So thank you all
Update time. We are currently sitting at the vets office, my girlfriend had made an appointment with the vet we had been seeing against my wishes. Dvorak has not been getting better. But he has not been regressing. We are getting another liquid calcium to feed him, as well as an antibiotic, more as a precautionary measure than anything.
In terms of husbandry, he has been moved to a 18”x 18”x 36” screen cage, plenty of real and artificial foliage to provide cover. His basking spot is right around 87, anbient being about 76, at night it drops to about 65 (all in degrees Fahrenheit). He is still refusing food, although ive been able to sneak an apple and a large roach in while he is gaping at me. He chewed really well and swallowed with no issue. Everything he has eaten has been dusted with the calcium with loD. But in about a week he has only eaten that.
I am in the Southeast side of Iowa, would anyone know of a good vet to see in that area? Obviously im willing to travel a ways.
And I say thank you so frequently because you are continuing to provide good information and support, and you seem to care for the animal, which no one else seems to do. Im trying to do the best I can for Dvorak, and you all make it easier to understand and accomplish.
So thank you all
Ethantrombone16
New Member
Also, you all are providing more information than I can tend to at the moment. I will upload pictures of his enclosure as soon as I am back from the vet. As far as the Calcium goes, it is calcium prOformed, as stated on the bottle. I am trying to keep everything balanced by giving the calcium LoD as recommended, and as frequently as he eats.
Ethantrombone16
New Member
He also weighs 196g, and is just over 18” from head to tail.
Ethantrombone16
New Member
Ethantrombone16
New Member
This is his current cage setup. Please excuse the Pothos at the bottom, those were just temporary.
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Where’s his uvb and why is the humidifier going?
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
If your uvb looks like this
You are not providing adequate levels which is not going to help your cham synthesize the vitamin d needed to absorb calcium. You need a uvb like this which spans the length of the enclosure.
Usually humidifiers aren’t run during the day due to increasing risk of upper respiratory infection (heat +humidity = bacterial growth).
You are not providing adequate levels which is not going to help your cham synthesize the vitamin d needed to absorb calcium. You need a uvb like this which spans the length of the enclosure.
Usually humidifiers aren’t run during the day due to increasing risk of upper respiratory infection (heat +humidity = bacterial growth).
Ethantrombone16
New Member
Okay, have a repti-sun TH50 12" uvb we can switch to. So should I run the humidifier at night? I am just afraid without it he will not have the correct humidity, without it he sits around 20-30% humidity.
Ares05
Chameleon Enthusiast
The cage is very small for him. You will want to get a 2x2x4. I use the 2x2x4 reptibreeze for my little guy, and he's only 3-4 months old and uses every bit of his cage.
It also looks like the majority of your plants are fake. Veiled chameleons love eating plants, and if they eat or try to eat a plastic one is can cause mouth injury and impaction. Pothos are great because they grow quickly and fill up space very well, and are literally invincible. I use schefflera and Pothos. Hibiscus is also good but it is harder to take care of if you don't have a grow light (learned that the hard way lol) You can find really full and long Pothos at Home Depot or Lowes. I got my schefflera ( Umbrella plant) from lowes, most lowes have it. No need for organic plants, just repot with topsoil and rinses all of the leaves really well. Cover the exposed dirt with 1-2inch stones. They are like kids they will eat the dirt.
Bulb kits are normally absolute crap. They make it out like you need all these things when you don't. As @MissSkittles said change your uvb to a tube fixture and throw the coil one in the trash. For basking bulbs you can pick up a 60-75 watt bulb specifically for reptiles, or just use a regular light bulb ( Not colored!!)
Uvb light hood: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-2605...1_10?keywords=reptisun&qid=1575158322&sr=8-10
I don't see a digital temperature probe. Get rid of the little circle ones, they can be up to 20 degrees off.
https://www.amazon.com/Qooltek-Ther...ital+temperature+probe&qid=1575158388&sr=8-11
Add more branches for him to climb on. I use Bend-a-branches, they aren't rough on skin but have some soft texture. You can also use wooden dowels, bamboo sticks, driftwood, ect. Veiled's need different branches to climb on with different sizes to exercise their feet.
If you are having trouble with humidity during the day, ive heard you can wrap a shower curtain around 2-3 sides to keep in more humidity. No foggers during the day.
You can keep the paper towels if you want, but I personally find it easier with a bare bottom that I can just wipe with a diluted reptile-safe cleaner one a day.
Ive got no place to talk here (my drainage needs some work lol) but make sure you've got good drainage so its not constantly wet in there.
It also looks like the majority of your plants are fake. Veiled chameleons love eating plants, and if they eat or try to eat a plastic one is can cause mouth injury and impaction. Pothos are great because they grow quickly and fill up space very well, and are literally invincible. I use schefflera and Pothos. Hibiscus is also good but it is harder to take care of if you don't have a grow light (learned that the hard way lol) You can find really full and long Pothos at Home Depot or Lowes. I got my schefflera ( Umbrella plant) from lowes, most lowes have it. No need for organic plants, just repot with topsoil and rinses all of the leaves really well. Cover the exposed dirt with 1-2inch stones. They are like kids they will eat the dirt.
Bulb kits are normally absolute crap. They make it out like you need all these things when you don't. As @MissSkittles said change your uvb to a tube fixture and throw the coil one in the trash. For basking bulbs you can pick up a 60-75 watt bulb specifically for reptiles, or just use a regular light bulb ( Not colored!!)
Uvb light hood: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-2605...1_10?keywords=reptisun&qid=1575158322&sr=8-10
I don't see a digital temperature probe. Get rid of the little circle ones, they can be up to 20 degrees off.
https://www.amazon.com/Qooltek-Ther...ital+temperature+probe&qid=1575158388&sr=8-11
Add more branches for him to climb on. I use Bend-a-branches, they aren't rough on skin but have some soft texture. You can also use wooden dowels, bamboo sticks, driftwood, ect. Veiled's need different branches to climb on with different sizes to exercise their feet.
If you are having trouble with humidity during the day, ive heard you can wrap a shower curtain around 2-3 sides to keep in more humidity. No foggers during the day.
You can keep the paper towels if you want, but I personally find it easier with a bare bottom that I can just wipe with a diluted reptile-safe cleaner one a day.
Ive got no place to talk here (my drainage needs some work lol) but make sure you've got good drainage so its not constantly wet in there.
Ethantrombone16
New Member
Alright, I have been looking into getting a larger screen cage for him. We had him in a wood cage for a while that was considerably larger, about 2.5x2.5x4.5, but we moved him out of it for fear a respiratory infection was causing some issues. Ill pick up the thermometer you linked, and look into more Pothos plants for him. I have some dwarf umbrella trees in the other cage that I can give back to him in his screen cage.
Ares05
Chameleon Enthusiast
Your current priorities should be:
Weight loss!!!
Cage upgrade
Uvb light change
Real plants
More branches
I want you to do all of them but if I had to choose five you need to do now it would be these. Chameleons are not cheap, my whole setup has been upwards of 900$, some can be even more. Not saying you should spend that much, but to really do up his cage right might cost more than you think. Now im also not saying you are going to spend 900$ but to really get him healthy and happy again its going to cost you. Chameleons are expensive little buggers. I mean, seriously, we give them a 900 dollar enclosure and you hate us in return? What kind of deal is that lol. A great and worth it one if you ask me
Weight loss!!!
Cage upgrade
Uvb light change
Real plants
More branches
I want you to do all of them but if I had to choose five you need to do now it would be these. Chameleons are not cheap, my whole setup has been upwards of 900$, some can be even more. Not saying you should spend that much, but to really do up his cage right might cost more than you think. Now im also not saying you are going to spend 900$ but to really get him healthy and happy again its going to cost you. Chameleons are expensive little buggers. I mean, seriously, we give them a 900 dollar enclosure and you hate us in return? What kind of deal is that lol. A great and worth it one if you ask me
JackRipper
Avid Member
Veileds can do with lower humidity during the day as their natural habitats sometimes are very arid, the fog rolls in at night and the dew builds up on everything. They get most of their hydration needs in the morning from 3am to when the fog burns off. They may absorb some while sleeping but they should be drinking in the morning from a heavy misting. I supply a slow dripper also just incase they get thirsty throughout the day. My Dry off period is from noon to 5pm. After 5 a lite mist and a bottle of water diy drip system which I do morning and night. A full bottle of crystal gyser poke a hole in the bottom and one in the lid with a thumb tack- it drains heavy then slows to a drip. This would only be recommended for veileds and maybe Panthers with more fogger on-off throughout the day. Always Keep a close eye out for dehydration but also the perches and topsoil should be given time to dry out most every day, I do once or twice a week rain showers where it's heavy misting/drippers all day off and on depending on my chams needs.
