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I don't mind helping... That is what I am in the forum for... Ok so the UVB I spent the last hour scouring their sites lol. I literally can not find where they say if their measurements are through screen or not. I will say they are almost always given not through screen. So if you can do a large gauge metal screen top this is going to allow more UVB to pass through. Which helps not losing half of the output. So I do not think the UVB100 would be ok for a T8 but I think the UVB 150 would be and close to what we consider a UVB 10.0 in a T8 to be. Now they say they print on the box the distance from the fixture for certain UVI levels. So I would imagine again they are basing these on not going through screen. So I would go with the 150 and then let me know what the dang box says because for the life of me I can not find the box image that actually shows what they suggest. lol

Now for the fixture go with what you found. The reflector is a great thing to have but if you can not get it then that is kinda that lol.

The mesh you chose for the sides will be great for the simple fact nails getting caught will not be an issue. Just make sure when you get it that it is smooth no sharp edges to the plastic that might cut toes.

Veileds tolerate lower humidity so if you can at least maintain 30% in the winter with the heat that will be good. You could always do a removable side panel that you can take on and off depending on the season. Ya know like hook it over the screen on the outside?

Now to get him to not climb really not possible unless your going to have solid sides from the top down at least 8 inches which I think will defeat the purpose of what you envision for the enclosure. So this means heat fixture will have to be lifted up off the top at least 4 inches. UVB with a T8 that we are not 100% certain on I do not know that I would lift it more than 2 inches if using a larger gauge screen for the top. If it was a T5 I would for sure.
Thank you for your time that you spent researching it really.

Their site says that the higher output UVB tubes can compensate for the screen filtering some of the UVB, but they do not have specific measurements for that unfortunately.. i think the information on the box they meant is the table with stars they have on the site i linked before, for veiled they state he should be 20cm or 8 inches from the source, but when it goes through screen I'm sure it can be closer.

So I'll definitely have to go with the kitchen light fixture and i will try to make a DIY reflector, it will be better than nothing. Maybe bending a thin aluminum sheet will be better than tin foil? It will have less wrinkles.. plus UVB150 45cm T8 tube to go with it.

The humidity will not be a problem then, and the removable side panel is great idea!

So the verdict is larger metal screen (can be basic zinc one with plastic coating, gauge size of 13mm?) and then raising the UVB and heat source from that to make sure he don't burn himself. That would mean i have to put basking spot higher to the top screen, the 7 inches from source so 5 inches from top screen for UVB and adjust heating to be 29 degrees at the basking spot?
 
Thank you for your time that you spent researching it really.

Their site says that the higher output UVB tubes can compensate for the screen filtering some of the UVB, but they do not have specific measurements for that unfortunately.. i think the information on the box they meant is the table with stars they have on the site i linked before, for veiled they state he should be 20cm or 8 inches from the source, but when it goes through screen I'm sure it can be closer.

So I'll definitely have to go with the kitchen light fixture and i will try to make a DIY reflector, it will be better than nothing. Maybe bending a thin aluminum sheet will be better than tin foil? It will have less wrinkles.. plus UVB150 45cm T8 tube to go with it.

The humidity will not be a problem then, and the removable side panel is great idea!

So the verdict is larger metal screen (can be basic zinc one with plastic coating, gauge size of 13mm?) and then raising the UVB and heat source from that to make sure he don't burn himself. That would mean i have to put basking spot higher to the top screen, the 7 inches from source so 5 inches from top screen for UVB and adjust heating to be 29 degrees at the basking spot?
I doubt it is through screen measurements. Just based off of other UVB distances that I know for a T8. For example a 12% arcadia T8 bulb is going to produce a 3 UVI at 5 inches away from the bulb through screen. I think the measurements they are giving you are not through screen. Unless they indicate specifically that they are through standard screen then they are giving measurements without it.

I think the aluminum sheet would be much better than foil.

You could do a panel that is corrugated plastic. If they have that here. It is pretty cheap here. Then use velcro to attach it to the frame of the enclosure on the outside.

Yes, that is what I would do because you still have to ensure they are not in overexposure levels consistently. So basing your readings off the 8 inches they are saying. I would raise 2 inches off the top. Then branches would be 6 inches below the top. Now keep in mind. They are temporary branches.... You want to be able to easily pull these ones out. You need other branches 8 inches below the screen as well. Those are for when the cham stops screen climbing and you can pull the ones that are closer and drop the UVB back on the top.
I have a full 12 inches between my heat fixture and branch. To ensure there is not a thermal burn risk. I have my fixture raised off the top 4 inches and then 8 inches to the branch below it. Put the heat fixture in a back corner that has both wall panels being solid. THis will help stabilize the temp in that back corner.
 
I doubt it is through screen measurements. Just based off of other UVB distances that I know for a T8. For example a 12% arcadia T8 bulb is going to produce a 3 UVI at 5 inches away from the bulb through screen. I think the measurements they are giving you are not through screen. Unless they indicate specifically that they are through standard screen then they are giving measurements without it.

I think the aluminum sheet would be much better than foil.

You could do a panel that is corrugated plastic. If they have that here. It is pretty cheap here. Then use velcro to attach it to the frame of the enclosure on the outside.

Yes, that is what I would do because you still have to ensure they are not in overexposure levels consistently. So basing your readings off the 8 inches they are saying. I would raise 2 inches off the top. Then branches would be 6 inches below the top. Now keep in mind. They are temporary branches.... You want to be able to easily pull these ones out. You need other branches 8 inches below the screen as well. Those are for when the cham stops screen climbing and you can pull the ones that are closer and drop the UVB back on the top.
I have a full 12 inches between my heat fixture and branch. To ensure there is not a thermal burn risk. I have my fixture raised off the top 4 inches and then 8 inches to the branch below it. Put the heat fixture in a back corner that has both wall panels being solid. THis will help stabilize the temp in that back corner.
Yeah their measurmets are without screen for sure. So when they say put it 8 inch away without screen, how far it should be with a screen there? Or do i ignore the screen when it's wide gauge one?

I will do my best polishing the aluminium sheet to act as a reflector then, thank you! For the temporary side, i can get basically any material that won't absorb moisture so i'll figure that one out, but i think it will be just good without it too, i will measure and make adjustments if necessary.

So the setup would be UVB150 raised 2 inches, then top screen with large gauge, then another 6 inches under the top screen and then basking branch. I would adjust the heating with dimmer so that i can too raise it at least 2 - 3 inches to keep him from burns, but still keep the 29°C mark on the basking spot. That is until he stops climbing the sides, once he stops i will put UVB and heating on top of the top screen directly and adjust the basking branch to be 8 inches under the UVB, and dim the heat so the basking temps are correct too. Do i get it right please?
 
Yeah their measurmets are without screen for sure. So when they say put it 8 inch away without screen, how far it should be with a screen there? Or do i ignore the screen when it's wide gauge one?

I will do my best polishing the aluminium sheet to act as a reflector then, thank you! For the temporary side, i can get basically any material that won't absorb moisture so i'll figure that one out, but i think it will be just good without it too, i will measure and make adjustments if necessary.

So the setup would be UVB150 raised 2 inches, then top screen with large gauge, then another 6 inches under the top screen and then basking branch. I would adjust the heating with dimmer so that i can too raise it at least 2 - 3 inches to keep him from burns, but still keep the 29°C mark on the basking spot. That is until he stops climbing the sides, once he stops i will put UVB and heating on top of the top screen directly and adjust the basking branch to be 8 inches under the UVB, and dim the heat so the basking temps are correct too. Do i get it right please?
Ignore since you will be using a wide gauge metal screen. Just ensure this one has no sharps on it as well.

See if you can get PVC sheets. They sell them here in 2ft by 4 ft sheets. Run about 30 bucks here. I got the 1/8inch thick one. This is what I used on my cage to convert it to a hybrid. Then you can just remove when you need to.

Yes for the UVB fixture and distances.

For heat your going to want to pull the fixture up higher so he can not hang right below it. Temp at basking should be about 26-27 for a baby. When he stops screen climbing the top panel you can drop UVB to the screen top I would leave the basking fixture raised 3-4 inches still off the top. Then branches would be 8 inches below screen top.

You will want to put your hand there under the heat fixture on the screen to ensure your hand does not feel too hot. If it feels hot to you it could burn baby.
 
Ignore since you will be using a wide gauge metal screen. Just ensure this one has no sharps on it as well.

See if you can get PVC sheets. They sell them here in 2ft by 4 ft sheets. Run about 30 bucks here. I got the 1/8inch thick one. This is what I used on my cage to convert it to a hybrid. Then you can just remove when you need to.

Yes for the UVB fixture and distances.

For heat your going to want to pull the fixture up higher so he can not hang right below it. Temp at basking should be about 26-27 for a baby. When he stops screen climbing the top panel you can drop UVB to the screen top I would leave the basking fixture raised 3-4 inches still off the top. Then branches would be 8 inches below screen top.

You will want to put your hand there under the heat fixture on the screen to ensure your hand does not feel too hot. If it feels hot to you it could burn baby.
I will make sure it's a smooth PVC coated one. Also ur right about the heating too, as always. So UVB 2 inches off screen and heating 4 inches? And then dim the heating bulb so basking is 27 while he's a baby and once he's an adult, raise to 29? Or some other temp? Good trick with the hand, will do :)

EDIT: One more question, what wattage basic bulb are you using? I don't know whether a 75W would make enough heat to achieve those basking temps? It's because the light dome i was looking at is for bulbs of 75W or less. Thanks!
 
I will make sure it's a smooth PVC coated one. Also ur right about the heating too, as always. So UVB 2 inches off screen and heating 4 inches? And then dim the heating bulb so basking is 27 while he's a baby and once he's an adult, raise to 29? Or some other temp? Good trick with the hand, will do :)

EDIT: One more question, what wattage basic bulb are you using? I don't know whether a 75W would make enough heat to achieve those basking temps? It's because the light dome i was looking at is for bulbs of 75W or less. Thanks!
Correct, you got it. I use a 75 watt regular incandescent bulb for basking. With it in a corner the heat builds more. I also have a full 12 inches to basking and I can get the temps I need. I keep mine at 28 for an adult. In winter this is where having panels that you can add on will be super helpful because you will be able to stabilize your temps much easier. Even Clear acrylic sheets might be a good option for you. You just need about 5 inches of screen at the front bottom of the panel that will make the chimney effect work to cycle your air up and out the top.
 
Correct, you got it. I use a 75 watt regular incandescent bulb for basking. With it in a corner the heat builds more. I also have a full 12 inches to basking and I can get the temps I need. I keep mine at 28 for an adult. In winter this is where having panels that you can add on will be super helpful because you will be able to stabilize your temps much easier. Even Clear acrylic sheets might be a good option for you. You just need about 5 inches of screen at the front bottom of the panel that will make the chimney effect work to cycle your air up and out the top.
Allright, thanks! So heating should go into the corner? And where to place UVB and basking branch? Do you think a 75W will be sufficient for me too? I can either get a dimmer or buy multiple wattages of bulbs, that will be cheaper and try different ones to achieve temps i need. Thanks for tips too ! :)
 
Allright, thanks! So heating should go into the corner? And where to place UVB and basking branch? Do you think a 75W will be sufficient for me too? I can either get a dimmer or buy multiple wattages of bulbs, that will be cheaper and try different ones to achieve temps i need. Thanks for tips too ! :)
I prefer heating in a solid corner just because it allows temps to be more stable. I have tried it a few different ways with different enclosures set ups over the last few years. this has become my favorite. I place my UVB parallel to the branch directly below it.

As far as wattage. I think 75 is a good starting point. Your home is going to differ from mine so you will need to play with it to find the sweet spot. But as you mentioned your looking at dome fixtures that are rated up to 75 watt. So you will need to stay with a max of 75. They have dimable domes as well.
 
I prefer heating in a solid corner just because it allows temps to be more stable. I have tried it a few different ways with different enclosures set ups over the last few years. this has become my favorite. I place my UVB parallel to the branch directly below it.

As far as wattage. I think 75 is a good starting point. Your home is going to differ from mine so you will need to play with it to find the sweet spot. But as you mentioned your looking at dome fixtures that are rated up to 75 watt. So you will need to stay with a max of 75. They have dimable domes as well.
Allright, so heating in the corner and uvb above basking branch, got it. Should i go for higher rated dome just to be sure? Or do you think that 75W will be more than enough.. so i dont buy two domes if 75 wont be enough.
 
Allright, so heating in the corner and uvb above basking branch, got it. Should i go for higher rated dome just to be sure? Or do you think that 75W will be more than enough.. so i dont buy two domes if 75 wont be enough.
It depends entirely on if you will need to use a CHE for winter. Those have specific domes they should be put into due to the heat output.
 
It depends entirely on if you will need to use a CHE for winter. Those have specific domes they should be put into due to the heat output.
I dont think it will get that cold here, as i said in winter it will be aroun 22 degrees ambient in the room, with his heating it should be enough?
 
I dont think it will get that cold here, as i said in winter it will be aroun 22 degrees ambient in the room, with his heating it should be enough?
I would think so. You can always go for the dome rated to 100watt. I have a 100 watt rated dome but run 75 watt bulbs. I liked having the cushion when I was new... I bought like 3 domes because I kept finding something I didn't like about mine. lol Then I ended up getting a herpstat thermostat with probe to use with my heat dome. The probe hooks in at the branch and you set it to the max temp you want and it dims the light up and down to adjust. This way no matter what your ambient temp is doing the basking will adjust accordingly.
 
I would think so. You can always go for the dome rated to 100watt. I have a 100 watt rated dome but run 75 watt bulbs. I liked having the cushion when I was new... I bought like 3 domes because I kept finding something I didn't like about mine. lol Then I ended up getting a herpstat thermostat with probe to use with my heat dome. The probe hooks in at the branch and you set it to the max temp you want and it dims the light up and down to adjust. This way no matter what your ambient temp is doing the basking will adjust accordingly.
Oh that thermostat thing is cool! Making the process much easier. I will go for higher rated i think, closest one here is up to 150W and costs just under 20€, i think ill go for that one and try different bulbs to see what is the right wattage to achieve the correct temps, always better to have the reserve there and option to use more than 75W one. Thank you again for all you help man, you helped me a lot! I will update my progress here once i start buying and building, and of course fine tune it with yall. Thank you again! :)
 
Oh that thermostat thing is cool! Making the process much easier. I will go for higher rated i think, closest one here is up to 150W and costs just under 20€, i think ill go for that one and try different bulbs to see what is the right wattage to achieve the correct temps, always better to have the reserve there and option to use more than 75W one. Thank you again for all you help man, you helped me a lot! I will update my progress here once i start buying and building, and of course fine tune it with yall. Thank you again! :)
Your welcome hun. I doubt you will ever need a wattage higher than 100. I use 100 watt bulbs in the winter just because it allows basking to heat up quicker. But like I said I have a thermostat that controls it so I do not have to worry about temps and I keep the fixture 12 inches from the branch to avoid thermal burns. I can get away with the 100 watt bulb in winter because of this.

Good luck. Let me know if you have any questions as you move along in the process. :)
 
Your welcome hun. I doubt you will ever need a wattage higher than 100. I use 100 watt bulbs in the winter just because it allows basking to heat up quicker. But like I said I have a thermostat that controls it so I do not have to worry about temps and I keep the fixture 12 inches from the branch to avoid thermal burns. I can get away with the 100 watt bulb in winter because of this.

Good luck. Let me know if you have any questions as you move along in the process. :)
Yeah I think so too but it's only 75 or 150 here, no middle ground. But as i think about it more, i think 75 will be sufficient. If not, i can move it a little bit closer to the branch from the corner, or put branch higher and raise UVB as well. The 75W should be enough then :) Of course, i will ask right away, thanks :)
 
Allright so i found a supplier that is offering Arcadia T5 Forest 6% 24W UVB lamp, that should be perfect for veiled chameleon, am i right? Before we talked about 8 inches between basking and UVB, 2 off top screen and 6 under it. Now with this Arcadia UVB, what would the correct dimensions be? I'm currently building the top part and would like to build it right hah. Thanks!
Ignore since you will be using a wide gauge metal screen. Just ensure this one has no sharps on it as well.

See if you can get PVC sheets. They sell them here in 2ft by 4 ft sheets. Run about 30 bucks here. I got the 1/8inch thick one. This is what I used on my cage to convert it to a hybrid. Then you can just remove when you need to.

Yes for the UVB fixture and distances.

For heat your going to want to pull the fixture up higher so he can not hang right below it. Temp at basking should be about 26-27 for a baby. When he stops screen climbing the top panel you can drop UVB to the screen top I would leave the basking fixture raised 3-4 inches still off the top. Then branches would be 8 inches below screen top.

You will want to put your hand there under the heat fixture on the screen to ensure your hand does not feel too hot. If it feels hot to you it could burn baby.
 
Allright so i found a supplier that is offering Arcadia T5 Forest 6% 24W UVB lamp, that should be perfect for veiled chameleon, am i right? Before we talked about 8 inches between basking and UVB, 2 off top screen and 6 under it. Now with this Arcadia UVB, what would the correct dimensions be? I'm currently building the top part and would like to build it right hah. Thanks!
The fixture is what you need. :) Correct so the fixture bottom would be exactly 2 inches from the aluminum screen top. Then you want 6-7 inches to the branches below it. I would raise the heat fixture 4 inches from the top screen. You material used for the screen maters as well so if you are not using aluminum window screen there can be a big change in the UVI level that passes through.
 
The fixture is what you need. :) Correct so the fixture bottom would be exactly 2 inches from the aluminum screen top. Then you want 6-7 inches to the branches below it. I would raise the heat fixture 4 inches from the top screen. You material used for the screen maters as well so if you are not using aluminum window screen there can be a big change in the UVI level that passes through.
Thank you for confirmation! So the measurments are correct even for T5 bulb? And what if i dont use aluminum screen. Here we dont have one, just fiberglass everywhere. I planned on using a znced one with PVC coating so its smoother. I can use bigger gauge to compensate for another material?
 
Thank you for confirmation! So the measurments are correct even for T5 bulb? And what if i dont use aluminum screen. Here we dont have one, just fiberglass everywhere. I planned on using a znced one with PVC coating so its smoother. I can use bigger gauge to compensate for another material?
So I would not use fiberglass. Can you order in the aluminum screen?

With the fiberglass it reduces the output of UVB greatly which is why we do not recommend it. A larger gauge metal would be more ideal. It will let through more UVB though. So depending on what you use your distances will change. For example. Something like metal hardware cloth... https://www.homedepot.com/p/YARDGAR...e-Galvanized-Hardware-Cloth-308225B/202515238

Something like that you would change distances completely. UVB would be raised 4 inches... Then your closest branches below would be 7-8 inches down from the screen. Total distance is 11-12 inches to compensate for virtually no reduction in UVI because there is basically nothing blocking the output of the bulb.

This then gives you the same uvi of 3 where the cham rises off the branch.
 
So I would not use fiberglass. Can you order in the aluminum screen?

With the fiberglass it reduces the output of UVB greatly which is why we do not recommend it. A larger gauge metal would be more ideal. It will let through more UVB though. So depending on what you use your distances will change. For example. Something like metal hardware cloth... https://www.homedepot.com/p/YARDGAR...e-Galvanized-Hardware-Cloth-308225B/202515238

Something like that you would change distances completely. UVB would be raised 4 inches... Then your closest branches below would be 7-8 inches down from the screen. Total distance is 11-12 inches to compensate for virtually no reduction in UVI because there is basically nothing blocking the output of the bulb.

This then gives you the same uvi of 3 where the cham rises off the branch.
yeah i figured the fiberglass is a no-go, but the aluminum one is not available anywhere and ordering it from like Amazon and stuff is expensive as hell. For sides i'm going to use a HDPE plastic one 5x5mm gauge, that should be powerful enough to even keep cats out, but for top im scared to use it, as it's plastic and can melt after all. So going with a gauge of 13x13mm, i guess ill have to change the distance a lot huh ..
 
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