Shedding PLEASE HELP

[jewel0301]

I have a 2 month old chameleon that has been shedding for about 2 weeks now just on the top of his head and around his spine. I’m trying to get his humidity up in his cage, I’ve let him shower (by the water) I’ve very gently wiped w a cotton ball and/or a-tip and i just can’t seem to help him!

 

[Fchamel]

Hi! Just by looking at the photos it looks like you have a a female Veiled. She is also displaying possible receptive colors. If you do not yet have a lay bin, you will need to get one in there ASAP. When they are shedding, the best things to do is leave them alone. Not sure if two weeks is normal though....

I suggest getting your husbandry reviewed I will link it down here and another member can help.

 

[Fchamel]

Please fill this form out.
@MissSkittles @Beman
Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[nightanole]

Its too late. The humidity levels etc need to be set BEFORE the shed. Once the shed starts its a test of previous husbandry.

Now you just have to wait. With frequent mistings the shed will get moist and then dry out, and eventually turn to a flaky paper and fall off. But as long as its not around fingers/toes or spikes, i wouldnt lose sleep over a stuck shed.

 

[jewel0301]

Hi! Just by looking at the photos it looks like you have a a female Veiled. She is also displaying possible receptive colors. If you do not yet have a lay bin, you will need to get one in there ASAP. When they are shedding, the best things to do is leave them alone. Not sure if two weeks is normal though....

I suggest getting your husbandry reviewed I will link it down here and another member can help.

I had suspicions of being female but i was told that by the tarsal spur that my chameleon has, that makes them a male!
I’ve only given a shower twice and he absolutely loves it. he gets extremely bright, doesn’t his or show signs of stress.
This picture was also taken 10 minutes after he woke up!

 

[Kamikaze Chameleon]

Can you get better pictures of the talspur? It's hard to tell from that pic but I'm also leaning female. The husbandry review is wise, If you switch to live plants that will increase humidity and in turn can help with the shed issue, plastic plants are a BIG impaction hazard for veileds so you should replace them ASAP

 

[jewel0301]

Can you get better pictures of the talspur? It's hard to tell from that pic but I'm also leaning female. The husbandry review is wise, If you switch to live plants that will increase humidity and in turn can help with the shed issue, plastic plants are a BIG impaction hazard for veileds so you should replace them ASAP

these are the best pictures i have!
Thank you so much for your help i’m going to buy more live plants today!!

 

[Kamikaze Chameleon]

So the older pictures actually make it HARDER to determine

 

[Fchamel]

I apologize. Its a male. The colors and puffiness made me think female.

 

[Fchamel]

No need to worry about a lay bin. Please fill in the form though.

 

[MissSkittles]

I had suspicions of being female but i was told that by the tarsal spur that my chameleon has, that makes them a male!
I’ve only given a shower twice and he absolutely loves it. he gets extremely bright, doesn’t his or show signs of stress.
This picture was also taken 10 minutes after he woke up!

Hi. Welcome to the forum.
Now I need to burst your bubble a bit...sorry. Unless extremely dehydrated, you shouldn’t shower your chameleon. Not only is there risk of burns (water that feels ok to us is scalding to them), but those bright colors are a sign of stress. A happy relaxed chameleon doesn’t put on a show with it’s colors, with the exception of receptive females and when they are asleep. https://chameleonacademy.com/ep-6-chameleons-stress/ It’s a common misconception, so don’t feel bad.
You have a beautiful little guy and we’d love to help you make sure you have everything correct for him, so that you‘ll have many years to enjoy and love him. There’s so much misinformation about chameleons that it’s too easy to have something wrong. If you answer the help questions posted above, someone can review all of your husbandry and make sure all is perfect.

 

[Beman]

I have a 2 month old chameleon that has been shedding for about 2 weeks now just on the top of his head and around his spine. I’m trying to get his humidity up in his cage, I’ve let him shower (by the water) I’ve very gently wiped w a cotton ball and/or a-tip and i just can’t seem to help him!

I had suspicions of being female but i was told that by the tarsal spur that my chameleon has, that makes them a male!
I’ve only given a shower twice and he absolutely loves it. he gets extremely bright, doesn’t his or show signs of stress.
This picture was also taken 10 minutes after he woke up!

If you want thorough feedback then fill out the form posted above for you....


Veileds require ambient day time humidity of 30-40% not higher. They are dry shedders so adding moisture is actually the worst thing you could do. It makes the shed become more like paper mache and it sticks to the skin which is why that is not working for you. When a young chameleon is having issues shedding it means something in their husbandry is not correct and needs to be fixed.

And extremely bright indicates stress with a young veiled. So no baby boy does not like the shower. And if it is not room temp water your causing a great deal of stress with the heat from it.

 

[jewel0301]

Please fill this form out.
@MissSkittles @Beman
Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Veiled, Male, Assuming 2 months, I’ve had him for 4 weeks
• Handling - Once a week
• Feeding - Crickets, Waxworms, Hornworms.
• Supplements - Repti-calcium once daily
• Watering - Misting 3 times a day for 3-4 minutes. I use the little dripper as well. I do see him drink!
• Fecal Description - normal brownish color, regularly in the same spot everytime.
• History - I’ve only had issues with his eye. he was itching on the branch and it occasionally buldged out almost like a bubble. occurred twice, took his to the vet, reccommended some cream it it occurred again. it hasn’t occurred again but did read about it being vitamin A deficiency.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screen cage 16x16x30 (will get bigger cage as he starts to grow)
• Lighting - ZOO-MED UVB light/ 75W intense Heat Basking light- 8AM to 8:30-9PM daily
• Temperature - basking spot- 89°-95° (currently having to use 2 lights to keep it high) Bottom of cage ranges from 65°-70°. Night temp: 65°-70°
• Humidity - Levels range from 30%-60% i check it hourly i’m trying to maintain 50%-60% (if you have reccomendations of humidifiers please let me know!) i measure w manual humidity meter.
• Plants - Live Pathos and Croton, having trouble finding smaller “pot” for his cage.
• Placement - My bed room, on a desk table just for him, in a corner not near any vents.
• Location - Dallas, TX

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[jewel0301]

Hi. Welcome to the forum.
Now I need to burst your bubble a bit...sorry. Unless extremely dehydrated, you shouldn’t shower your chameleon. Not only is there risk of burns (water that feels ok to us is scalding to them), but those bright colors are a sign of stress. A happy relaxed chameleon doesn’t put on a show with it’s colors, with the exception of receptive females and when they are asleep. https://chameleonacademy.com/ep-6-chameleons-stress/ It’s a common misconception, so don’t feel bad.
You have a beautiful little guy and we’d love to help you make sure you have everything correct for him, so that you‘ll have many years to enjoy and love him. There’s so much misinformation about chameleons that it’s too easy to have something wrong. If you answer the help questions posted above, someone can review all of your husbandry and make sure all is perfect.

You’re not bursting my bubble at all! I am thankful for this info!!!! Please correct me on anything i need to change!!

 

[jewel0301]

If you want thorough feedback then fill out the form posted above for you....


Veileds require ambient day time humidity of 30-40% not higher. They are dry shedders so adding moisture is actually the worst thing you could do. It makes the shed become more like paper mache and it sticks to the skin which is why that is not working for you. When a young chameleon is having issues shedding it means something in their husbandry is not correct and needs to be fixed.

And extremely bright indicates stress with a young veiled. So no baby boy does not like the shower. And if it is not room temp water your causing a great deal of stress with the heat from it.

I am so glad i made an account and posted bc I’ve tried to research and i’ve asked the vet as well and they recommended the shower (never again) UGH! I filled out the information (sorry for the delay) What color should he be that indicates he is not stressed? i was under the impression dark colors were stress and especially spots?

 

[Beman]

I am so glad i made an account and posted bc I’ve tried to research and i’ve asked the vet as well and they recommended the shower (never again) UGH! I filled out the information (sorry for the delay) What color should he be that indicates he is not stressed? i was under the impression dark colors were stress and especially spots?

I will go through your help form. And answer your questions. Can you please post pics of your entire enclosure lights down so we can see everything.

Getting the wrong husbandry info is very common even from vets.

 

[nightanole]

I am so glad i made an account and posted bc I’ve tried to research and i’ve asked the vet as well and they recommended the shower (never again) UGH! I filled out the information (sorry for the delay) What color should he be that indicates he is not stressed? i was under the impression dark colors were stress and especially spots?

Im scared green:

Im stressed green:

Im happy green:

Guess a good process indicator would be the white bars.

 

[Beman]

@jewel0301 See my feedback in bold.

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Veiled, Male, Assuming 2 months, I’ve had him for 4 weeks He has tarsal spurs... It is a male.
• Handling - Once a week
• Feeding - Crickets, Waxworms, Hornworms. How much are you feeding and how often?
• Supplements - Repti-calcium once daily... Does your container say with D3 or without D3... You need additional supplements in your rotation but I need to know which calcium your using now. If it is calcium without D3 you need to buy Reptivite with D3. This is your multivitamin with A and D3. This would be used two times a month only say the 1st and the 15th then at all other feedings you would use calcium WITHOUT D3.
• Watering - Misting 3 times a day for 3-4 minutes. I use the little dripper as well. I do see him drink! Only mist morning and evening when temps in cage is cooler.
• Fecal Description - normal brownish color, regularly in the same spot everytime.
• History - I’ve only had issues with his eye. he was itching on the branch and it occasionally buldged out almost like a bubble. occurred twice, took his to the vet, reccommended some cream it it occurred again. it hasn’t occurred again but did read about it being vitamin A deficiency. Nope, This sounds like he was trying to clean it... Looks like this and lasts a few minutes. This has nothing to do with vitamin A deficiency.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screen cage 16x16x30 (will get bigger cage as he starts to grow) Good you will need a 2x2x4 min.
• Lighting - ZOO-MED UVB light/ 75W intense Heat Basking light- 8AM to 8:30-9PM daily I need to know what UVB bulb your using... Please take pictures for me. You need to get a timer and lights should run 12 on and 12 hours off. No light or heat added at night.
• Temperature - basking spot- 89°-95° (currently having to use 2 lights to keep it high) Bottom of cage ranges from 65°-70°. Night temp: 65°-70° Basking is wayyyyyyyy too hot. Reduce this to 80-82 max. Night temp you want 60-65 not hotter they need the cool down.
• Humidity - Levels range from 30%-60% i check it hourly i’m trying to maintain 50%-60% (if you have reccomendations of humidifiers please let me know!) i measure w manual humidity meter. Humidity should be 30-40% during the day. It can spike after misting but should fall to these levels. Not higher during the day. At night you can run a cool mist humidifier to get your night time humidity up to 80-100% when the cage is cool.
• Plants - Live Pathos and Croton, having trouble finding smaller “pot” for his cage.
• Placement - My bed room, on a desk table just for him, in a corner not near any vents.
• Location - Dallas, TX

Accurate info and Product links for things I like:

https://chameleonacademy.com/

https://www.chameleonbreeder.com/

https://www.youtube.com/c/NeptunetheChameleon?sub_confirmation=1

www.dragonstrand.com

https://tkchameleons.com/collections/accessories/products/shooting-gallery

 

[jewel0301]

@jewel0301 See my feedback in bold.

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Veiled, Male, Assuming 2 months, I’ve had him for 4 weeks He has tarsal spurs... It is a male.
• Handling - Once a week
• Feeding - Crickets, Waxworms, Hornworms. How much are you feeding and how often?
• Supplements - Repti-calcium once daily... Does your container say with D3 or without D3... You need additional supplements in your rotation but I need to know which calcium your using now. If it is calcium without D3 you need to buy Reptivite with D3. This is your multivitamin with A and D3. This would be used two times a month only say the 1st and the 15th then at all other feedings you would use calcium WITHOUT D3.
• Watering - Misting 3 times a day for 3-4 minutes. I use the little dripper as well. I do see him drink! Only mist morning and evening when temps in cage is cooler.
• Fecal Description - normal brownish color, regularly in the same spot everytime.
• History - I’ve only had issues with his eye. he was itching on the branch and it occasionally buldged out almost like a bubble. occurred twice, took his to the vet, reccommended some cream it it occurred again. it hasn’t occurred again but did read about it being vitamin A deficiency. Nope, This sounds like he was trying to clean it... Looks like this and lasts a few minutes. This has nothing to do with vitamin A deficiency.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screen cage 16x16x30 (will get bigger cage as he starts to grow) Good you will need a 2x2x4 min.
• Lighting - ZOO-MED UVB light/ 75W intense Heat Basking light- 8AM to 8:30-9PM daily I need to know what UVB bulb your using... Please take pictures for me. You need to get a timer and lights should run 12 on and 12 hours off. No light or heat added at night.
• Temperature - basking spot- 89°-95° (currently having to use 2 lights to keep it high) Bottom of cage ranges from 65°-70°. Night temp: 65°-70° Basking is wayyyyyyyy too hot. Reduce this to 80-82 max. Night temp you want 60-65 not hotter they need the cool down.
• Humidity - Levels range from 30%-60% i check it hourly i’m trying to maintain 50%-60% (if you have reccomendations of humidifiers please let me know!) i measure w manual humidity meter. Humidity should be 30-40% during the day. It can spike after misting but should fall to these levels. Not higher during the day. At night you can run a cool mist humidifier to get your night time humidity up to 80-100% when the cage is cool.
• Plants - Live Pathos and Croton, having trouble finding smaller “pot” for his cage.
• Placement - My bed room, on a desk table just for him, in a corner not near any vents.
• Location - Dallas, TX

Accurate info and Product links for things I like:

https://chameleonacademy.com/

https://www.chameleonbreeder.com/

https://www.youtube.com/c/NeptunetheChameleon?sub_confirmation=1

www.dragonstrand.com

https://tkchameleons.com/collections/accessories/products/shooting-gallery


View attachment 293481View attachment 293482

In regards to feeding- how much/ how often- 6-7 crickets twice a day sometimes 3 times daily. 4-5 Waxworms twice a day.

Supplement is w/o D3 so i will go grab the other one today!

I had two lights because i was told 80-90° is too cold! i will remove one of them!

the picture below is the light i have been using.

 

[Beman]

In regards to feeding- how much/ how often- 6-7 crickets twice a day sometimes 3 times daily. 4-5 Waxworms twice a day.

Supplement is w/o D3 so i will go grab the other one today!

I had two lights because i was told 80-90° is too cold! i will remove one of them!

the picture below is the light i have been using.

So this UVB is incorrect. You need a T5HO fixture and a 5.0 bulb that runs the width of your enclosure. I would get a 24 inch fixture since you will need to have that on the adult cage. Then the basking branch should be 8-9 inches below with the fixture sitting directly on the cage.

Make sure you get the reptivite with D3 version.

With your feeding... Cut back on the wax worms... Really those are meant more for treats. Not a staple feeder due to the high fat content.

I would feed in the morning so he has all day to bask. But if you want to add additional crickets do it like at noon. Otherwise it is more then ok to add all feeders to the feeder cup or run in the morning and he will eat as he wants.

Yeah nope so at the branch with a temp guage that has a probe you want it to be 80 Degrees. No hotter then 82. This is for their entire life. We do not increase temps just because they become adults. High heat shortens lifespans.