Hey guys, I've got a quick question regarding the incubation of veiled chameleon eggs. I have a female who was bred once. Her first clutch produced no viable eggs, so I assumed her second clutch would turn out the same. But when I emptied out her laying box I found one big egg surrounded by a clump of moldy black eggs. The one egg had no mold on it, but it was a little yellow. When I candled it I though I could see something moving inside. I changed the sand and re buried it with the air sack facing up. Do y'all think it has a chance of hatching under the sand, or should I move it to a box with vermiculite instead?
Sand Vs. Vermiculite
- Thread starter Candice
- Start date
nightanole
Chameleon Enthusiast
BIG CHUNK verm would be a more humidity stable environment, get more air, and more mold proof.
drcrossfire
Avid Member
Hatch rite and superhatch are also good options
jannb
Chameleon Enthusiast
You might find find this section from my blog helpful.
I incubate the eggs the same way that Lynda (kinyonga) does. Put them in a plastic Tupperware shoe box with about 3 inches of moist vermiculite and keep them in a closet where the temps with be around 76 degrees. I punch two tiny holes in the lid. To test for moisture, take a fist full of the vermiculite and squeeze it, if no more than a drop or two of water comes out then the moisture level should be okay. Do not turn the eggs as you move them from where they were laid to the container. Lay them in rows about an inch apart in all directions in shallow dents made with your thumb in the vermiculite. Put the lid on and place them in a dark place where the temperature is between 72-78 F. Moisture will form on the sides of the container and underside of the lid. It takes about 8 to 9 months for the eggs to hatch. It they are not fertile they will mold over in a couple of weeks.
I incubate the eggs the same way that Lynda (kinyonga) does. Put them in a plastic Tupperware shoe box with about 3 inches of moist vermiculite and keep them in a closet where the temps with be around 76 degrees. I punch two tiny holes in the lid. To test for moisture, take a fist full of the vermiculite and squeeze it, if no more than a drop or two of water comes out then the moisture level should be okay. Do not turn the eggs as you move them from where they were laid to the container. Lay them in rows about an inch apart in all directions in shallow dents made with your thumb in the vermiculite. Put the lid on and place them in a dark place where the temperature is between 72-78 F. Moisture will form on the sides of the container and underside of the lid. It takes about 8 to 9 months for the eggs to hatch. It they are not fertile they will mold over in a couple of weeks.
Channel
Member
Hi tell me I read all this. My veiled chameleon is on her 41th day still waiting to lay her eggs. I'm going away to America so my parents would take over the work. If she is done laying her eggs and they took it out and put it in the vermiculite am I a lowed to put the male chameleon back with her or not? If not when then?
Daniel Martin
Member
All I can day is don't put them back together
They look fertile to me.
You might want to slow her reproduction/clutch size down a little. Laying that many eggs is hard on them.
If you out them back together now, the male will try to mate with her and she will likely try to repel him so they could hurt each other. The stress will not be good for the female. They should be kept separately except for mating . They don't live together in the wild. In her wild if they don't want to be together, theybcan move away from each other. In the cage they can't move far enough.
You might want to slow her reproduction/clutch size down a little. Laying that many eggs is hard on them.
If you out them back together now, the male will try to mate with her and she will likely try to repel him so they could hurt each other. The stress will not be good for the female. They should be kept separately except for mating . They don't live together in the wild. In her wild if they don't want to be together, theybcan move away from each other. In the cage they can't move far enough.
Channel
Member
Ok it makes sence, I need urgent help please I'm desperate!!! My male chameleon had MBD so I had him treated he is fine now looks good and my mom sais he eats good and gets bigger. My female chameleon have the same disease now. She's so weak after she layed her eggs. My mom said she didn't have grip so she fell of the sticks she broke one front leg and her behind legs. What do I do please help me I'm so so sad I don't know what to do please help me please!!!!
You're very lucky she even got through the egg laying if she had MBD. Did she eat and drink since??
Can you post photos of both chameleons so I can see how bad they are?
What supplements have you been using and how often for each? What do you feed / gutload the insects with? Do you have a proper UVB light that does not pass through glass or plastic?
To correct MBD, if it is MBD, you need to give them liquid calcium gluconate or liquid calcium sandoz until the bones and muscles and other systems are strong again and also supplement/dust the insects properly, provide appropriate temperatures, provide proper UVB, and feed/gutload the insects properly, water properly and keep the stress down. MBD is due to an imbalance in nutrients especially calcium, D3, and vitamin A. Also overfeeding constantly can lead to signs of MBD, impaction and prolapse.
Appropriate temperatures allow for proper digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. low to mid 80's F is good for a veiled female.
A UVB light allows the chameleon to produce the D3 needed to allow it to use the calcium in its system.
Dusting at most feedings with a phosphorous-free calcium powder helps make up for the poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous found in most feeder insects.
Dusting twice a month with a phosphorous - free calcium / D3 powder ensures that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving the chameleon to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to overdoses but D3 from exposure to UVB won't likely build up as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB when it wants to.
Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene ( prOformed ) source of vitamin A provides vitamins without having to worry about overdosing the vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A cannot build up in the system and lead to overdoses like prEformed sources can and will leave it up to you to decide whether the chameleon needs prEformed or not and provide it if needed.
Crickets, locusts, superworms, roaches, etc can be fed / gutloaded with greens such as collards, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, kale, mustard greens, etc and veggies such as carrots, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, etc.
I know this is a lot to take in but it's all important.
Can you post photos of both chameleons so I can see how bad they are?
What supplements have you been using and how often for each? What do you feed / gutload the insects with? Do you have a proper UVB light that does not pass through glass or plastic?
To correct MBD, if it is MBD, you need to give them liquid calcium gluconate or liquid calcium sandoz until the bones and muscles and other systems are strong again and also supplement/dust the insects properly, provide appropriate temperatures, provide proper UVB, and feed/gutload the insects properly, water properly and keep the stress down. MBD is due to an imbalance in nutrients especially calcium, D3, and vitamin A. Also overfeeding constantly can lead to signs of MBD, impaction and prolapse.
Appropriate temperatures allow for proper digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. low to mid 80's F is good for a veiled female.
A UVB light allows the chameleon to produce the D3 needed to allow it to use the calcium in its system.
Dusting at most feedings with a phosphorous-free calcium powder helps make up for the poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous found in most feeder insects.
Dusting twice a month with a phosphorous - free calcium / D3 powder ensures that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving the chameleon to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to overdoses but D3 from exposure to UVB won't likely build up as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB when it wants to.
Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene ( prOformed ) source of vitamin A provides vitamins without having to worry about overdosing the vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A cannot build up in the system and lead to overdoses like prEformed sources can and will leave it up to you to decide whether the chameleon needs prEformed or not and provide it if needed.
Crickets, locusts, superworms, roaches, etc can be fed / gutloaded with greens such as collards, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, kale, mustard greens, etc and veggies such as carrots, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, etc.
I know this is a lot to take in but it's all important.
Channel
Member
I don't know about eating and drinking since I'll ask my parents. Sure ill try and post some photos now of them. Well when I took the male chameleon to the vet he gave me a calcium that I can use for them he said only that calcium is needed if I get a photo of that tomorrow I'll post it on here as well so you can see. I feed the insects only carrots I have a UVB a warm light that's red and another white light desert terranium bulb. It's an open cage almost like mesh. She is going to the vet for some shots with the liquid calsium and then my parents have to force feed her and give her water that's what I did with my male chameleon and he is eating now.
