I’d just like to say thanks for your help and support. It means a lot. As I was writing the survey I realized how much I don’t know. The survey was just a list of things that weren’t in my knowledge base. I didn’t realize how much of a newbie I am. Thanks again.
You are totally welcome! I'm just glad that you are willing to learn!
In the forums It was suggested where they said to feed 10 Phoenix worms every other day. Just making sure. What feeders do you recommend and how many days per week should they be fed to the Chammy?
10 phoenix worms every other day is insufficient. While phoenix worms and can be a staple food item, your feeding regimen should revolve around picking a primary feeder such as crickets or dubia roaches (or both). After picking a primary feeder, you can pick other insects like phoenix worms, superworms, silkworms to cycle around. If your cham is still growing, feed as much as he will eat every day. If your cham is mature, then feed him every other day 2-3 food items. One day I'll feed a dubia roach and a superworm. Then the next time I feed, I'll give him a dubia roach and two phoenix worms. Hornworms are also good feeders and very common.
as far as calcium goes is Miner-All d3 okay ? And as far as Multivitamins goes is Herptivite okay as well?
Herptavite has no preformed vitamin A (retinol) which is what chameleons need for good eye-tongue coordination. Herptavite uses proformed vitamin A (beta carotene) which humans use to convert to preformed vitamin A; however it is speculated that some species of chameleons cannot do this conversion process. In short, stick to a multivitamin that has performed vitamin A or a mix between preformed and proformed. I recommend Reptivite with D3 or Repashy Calcium Plus LoD both of which have the necessary multivitamins and D3. This means that you won't need to use the miner-all with D3 at all. If you really want to use the miner-all with D3, then I suggest getting Reptivite without D3. Do not use Reptivite with D3 or Repashy Calcium Plus LoD with Miner-all with D3 or you will overdose your cham with D3.
Plain calcium: every feeding
Multivitamin and D3: once a month
His poop was dark and white.
Okay, well this is good. This means that he was well hydrated--good job!
the uvb bulb is eight inches above the closest branch.
Perfect! This is a good height! Just make sure to replace the bulb every year as the effectiveness decreases over time.
Regarding thermometers, how many should be housed in the terrarium at any giving time. Where should they be placed? Here‘s a pic of the thermometers I currently have. What ones would you go with?
Put one thermometer probe reader in the basking spot to monitor temps to make sure they are not getting too hot. Then Put another one in the middle to bottom portion of the cage to read temperature and humidity. Some people use Govee hygrometer/thermometer probes while others, such as myself, just use whatever is available at the local hardware store. Just make sure the "outside" thermometer probe can read humidity as well. I will say that the next probe I will get will be a Govee probe because they are pretty dang cheap, super reliable, and can be monitored on your phone. Here's the link:
Bluetooth Option:
https://www.amazon.com/Govee-Thermo...words=govee+temperature&qid=1624846399&sr=8-9
WiFi Option (more expensive but you can monitor the temps and humidity away from home):
https://www.amazon.com/Govee-Indoor...words=govee+temperature&qid=1624846485&sr=8-5
You should be A-OKAY buying the cheaper option of bluetooth as you really don't need to monitor temps/humidity away from home. But if you want to spend more money, the option is there.
For placement: make sure all temperature/hygrometer probes are out of the mist zone as water will result in inaccurate readings.
