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I agreed, I am more concern what I have been feeding my veiled chameleon over the last few months. Now she isn't doing well and worry if she has parasite infection or eggbound. Sadly I couldn't get any help from the vets in my area.

nick barta

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Another trick to keeping crickets in the feeding cup is after you have them in a cup dusted, give them a minute to calm down. Then GENTLY shake them into the feeder cup, they won't jump out.




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nice write up Linda!

Edit: I wanted to add that it's a good idea to manually cup feed (as in holding the cup for) the cham. This way crickets aren't running around the cage spreading excreted parasites. One of the reasons captive animals don't deal with parasites so well is a lot to do with not being out in the wild. Being in a cage means they mostly poop in one place and this creates a higher concentration of parasites. Sure we clean out cages but crickets getting loose and runing through some fresh droppings or digging in the dirt where poop has landed before can reintroduce a parasite, or increase the levels in the animal. Also chameleons like, Melleri, will (I have no idea why) aim their bottom at the feeding cup and deposit their droppings. Maybe it is to show the feeder bugs the end product of the process they are about to go through?

For this reason I hold the cup and monitor food intake as the cham eats. I also make sure no bugs get loose in the cage.
How does manually feeding your chameleon work for you? I'm curious about this idea, and it seems to make good sense, but don't chams get a lot of their exercise from hunting down feeder insects?

Does your chameleon usually eat as soon as you offer a cup, and how many do you give him at a time?
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