Possibly blind Chameleon?

Herpcentric

Member
I would really LOVE to know if my new baby is ok and if I can do anything to help her. Here’s her info for better help!


Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Female Ambilobe Panther Chameleon. Her previous owner said she is a year and a half old. I have only had her for a week from the date of Tuesday, August 20th. She is also on the smaller side of females I’ve noticed.



  • Handling - I handle her once a day to take her outside to her outside enclose to sunbathe for about a hour to hour and a half every day, as I’ve read on several sites that it’s very crucial for panthers to receive natural sunlight when ever possible if not daily.



  • Feeding - Mealworms and crickets as of right now. With intentions to order butter worms and dubia roaches in near future if I can’t find them at this up-coming rep convention. Also would love to give her horn worms as I’ve heard they are great for extra hydration. Currently she is eating 2-4 mealworms with 3-4 crickets every day around 5-7 pm when I return from classes. Her crickets are got loaded with fresh Carrots, Romain Lettuce, Gala Apples and small Golden Potatoes. And they have just tried Cucumber and love it. (I’ve learned you treat your chams food like you would them, royalty!)



  • Supplements - Currently using Exo-Terra Calcium as a everyday supplement. It is a very light dusting with any excess blown off the feeders. I have great intention of getting Repashy super plus for her 2-3 times monthly dusting. I know she can not have phosphorus and D3 and it was painful and scary to buy the Exo-Terra, but she seems to be doing good with it.(would greatly appreciate pointers if there is a better brand out there that does not contain phosphorus/ vitamin D3)



  • Watering - I hand mist her enclosure twice daily from 2-4 minutes. Once before I leave in the morning and once about a hour to 30 mins before lights go out. She has a dripper set up too. Yes, I see her drinking very well.



  • Fecal Description - Dark brown to brown with a little white-ish calcified bit and clear urination/liquid. Has stayed consistent coloring/liquid. She’s pooing ever day-every other day. No she has not been tested and I honestly do not trust any of the vets in my area to check her as I’ve lost my previous veiled Cham that I loved to death to a incompetent vet that claimed she was a rep specialist and yet still called my chameleon a, and I’m quoting here, “Such a pretty gecko”. No, sadly, she has not been tested.



  • History - She has bred once and lain two fertile(?) clutches with her previous owner, being cross bred with a Ambanja. I don’t know if this is possibly what damaged her eye? If maybe the male got a little too rough and scratched it? Or a feeder scratched it, I just don’t know. She came this way to me and I’m just curious to know if I can possibly help return her sight.



Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - She is currently in a 18’x18’x24’ for a day or two more while her new cage finishes drying and airing out. It’s just been stained and urethane. But her permi enclosure is Pine wood frame, with glass sides, wood backing, plexiglass door, screen venting beneath door and a screen top. It is a hand build (myself) 2”x2”x4”. She would be in my bigger cage, a 2”x4”x7” but its been out of commission since I moved a few years ago and need to find a back paneling replacement since its glass didn’t survive the move.



  • Lighting - Her current lighting is a zoomed 5.0 accompanied with a red inferred night light for heat maintainability as it stays around 72 in my room. Her lights come on with the sun’s schedule, so its a progressing change through the year but currently maintaining 8am to 8pm(with sunrise and sunset)



  • Temperature - Cage floor is fluctuating from 74-76, the middle fluctuating from 76-80, and her basking is almost 86 degrees. Her night temp dropped a bit lower than what I would have liked her first night so she has a red inferred night bulb to maintain heat, and it holds where she sleeps at 74 degrees. I have small temp gauges stuck to the bottom of her cage, the middle and just above her basking spot.



  • Humidity - Humidity maintains from 67-82, with help from dipper maintaining humidity while I’m gone. I’m misting her morning and evening about an hour to 30 mins before lights out, and it maintains a percentage that I feel comfortable with.(I know it should be higher, but until her permi cage is set up I don’t know if there’s much I can do. And naturally its pretty humid where I live too, so that’s helping in my favor) I have a hygrometer in the middle of her back glass panel.



  • Plants - In her current temp enclosure I have fake satin foliage, while her permi cage has a umbrella plant. I would like to put another plant in there until her umbrella plant grows tall enough but I don’t know what will be viney enough to filter enough light down to her main plant so it doesn’t die.



  • Placement - Her current temp cage is located on my desk a few feet from my bed. There is a fan about 10 feet away, no air vents and it is a semi high traffic area, but she does not stress/show stress coloration when ever I or my dog walks near. She just watches on and kinda tilts her head this way and that. The top of her cage is about 5 feet off the ground, almost half way up a 12” wall it’s backed against.



  • Location - Just out side of Fort Worth Texas. So it’s nice and sunny and warm and humid right now!—err, was at least, since its currently raining..







Current Problem - She’s completely blind in her left eye.. When I first received Peaches(cham) I noticed that she tended to keep her left eye closed and sunken. Figured at that time it was from the stress of moving. But she would open it still and look around, only about 40-50% of the time. She also likes to inflate(?) it and try to scratch it that way and occasionally rubs on foliage.

The next day I set her outside around noon under the dappling of my trees as the sun shifted over head. She sat on her umbrella plant and scouted around on it for a while, while I’m snapping pics of this absolute cutie! The more pics I took, the more I noticed her keeping that left eye closed. I waved my hand pretty close next to her left side first opportunity I saw that eye open. She didn’t flinch, move away, change coloration or anything, just kept shifting her eye to look around before drawing it in to do the funny puff up eye itch that they do and closing it again only to attempt a few minutes later if she could use it. I waved my hand on her right side and got an immediate reaction. Almost got bit! I’m talking the hissing, the mouth gape, the black pin stripes, that horribly cute arm pulling back against a completely flat and defensive Chameleon. She flaunted the whole 9 yards!

When she next opened her left eye I got a quick look at her iris/pupil. It didn’t look right at all! Her pupil looks contracted, showing a lot of the iris. But the iris doesn’t look right. It’s not clear and pretty molten amber flecked with black like her right eye. It’s almost zebra/tiger striped circling her pupil. And a foggy yellowy brown. It also has a pin point of foggy yellow in the very center of her pupil.

Now I don’t know what happened, but I’m possibly hoping that I can help heal this and she’ll be able to see again. But hopes aren’t very high seeing as she’s a year and a half old and I really don’t know how long she’s been like this before she came to my care. She’s also been mated once, and I didn’t know if possibly that big boy Ambanja got a little too rough with this little female and scratched her eye, or if a feeders leg possibly got it. If I can I’ll try to get a pic of her pupil/iris, but I don’t want to stress her more than she already is, and I don’t want to hurt her trying to get a pic to better diagnose her problem.

Has anyone heard of this happening before? If so, can it be healed? I’m honestly afraid that she’s permanently blind on that side, but hope this isn’t the case and she’s just got a nasty looking eye infection? If nothing can be done, I understand. But it’s just worrying when I have to make sure she sees food on her right side and she’s left completely defenseless to anything on her left..

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She’s moving it around while the eye is still closed, so she’s really trying to see but when she actually opens her eye it detects nothing..



Also, any suggestions on how I can better feed/care for her would be fantastic! She’s my first panther and already she’s so much different than veildes. Especially her diet. She’s also smaller then veiled females and I’m afraid of over feeding her. She’s a foodie x_x

I know she also isn’t in the best enclosure right now, but that’s not going to last long. Soon as her bigger cage is set up, she’s being moved! :D She’s actually really friendly now that we’ve gotten used to each other and readily walks onto my hand to be escorted outside to her daily basking spot.



Thank you guys so much for any/all help in advance! I’ve only known her for a week, but if anything happens to her, I’m killing everyone, then myself. She’s just to precious and amazing and I love her so much!
 

Brodybreaux25

Chameleon Enthusiast
The only think you can do for her is to take her to the vet. If it’s as bad as you say it is there’s nothing you can do about it.

If possible I’d be very interested to see her pupil.
 

JacksJill

Chameleon Enthusiast
Biggest red flag I've seen so far is having a red light on at night. She needs absolute darkness at night to sleep. Night time temperatures down into the 60's are a good thing. She probably has a bit of sleep deprivation.
You can try rinsing her eye as you spray her but I agree the vet is your best option.
 

JacksJill

Chameleon Enthusiast
  • Your Chameleon - Female Ambilobe Panther Chameleon. Her previous owner said she is a year and a half old. I have only had her for a week from the date of Tuesday, August 20th. She is also on the smaller side of females I’ve noticed.
    She will need a lay bin as she will continue to lay eggs most of her life. Her eggs may be fertile for a clutch or two.

  • Handling - I handle her once a day to take her outside to her outside enclose to sunbathe for about a hour to hour and a half every day, as I’ve read on several sites that it’s very crucial for panthers to receive natural sunlight when ever possible if not daily.
    As long as she gets daily sunlight you won't need D3 but will need to add it twice monthly if you can't get her outside.

  • Feeding - Mealworms and crickets as of right now. With intentions to order butter worms and dubia roaches in near future if I can’t find them at this up-coming rep convention. Also would love to give her horn worms as I’ve heard they are great for extra hydration. Currently she is eating 2-4 mealworms with 3-4 crickets every day around 5-7 pm when I return from classes. Her crickets are got loaded with fresh Carrots, Romain Lettuce, Gala Apples and small Golden Potatoes. And they have just tried Cucumber and love it. (I’ve learned you treat your chams food like you would them, royalty!)
    Mealworms are a poor feeder do't get anymore and switch to super worms in their place in addition to the other feeders you are adding. Here are some other gut load ingredient you can add: Best - These gutloading ingredients are best because they are highest in calcium, low in phosphorus, oxalates and goitrogens. They should be the primary components of your gutload: mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion leaves, collard greens, escarole lettuce, papaya, watercress and alfalfa.
    Good - These gutloading ingredients are good because they are moderately high in calcium and other vitamins/minerals. They should be used in addition to those from the previous category: sweet potato, carrots, oranges, mango, butternut squash, kale, apples, beet greens, blackberries, bok choy and green beans.



  • Supplements - Currently using Exo-Terra Calcium as a everyday supplement. It is a very light dusting with any excess blown off the feeders. I have great intention of getting Repashy super plus for her 2-3 times monthly dusting. I know she can not have phosphorus and D3 and it was painful and scary to buy the Exo-Terra, but she seems to be doing good with it.(would greatly appreciate pointers if there is a better brand out there that does not contain phosphorus/ vitamin D3)
    Exoterra has two calcium supplements one without D3 and one with D3. If you are using the one with D3 stop immediately and get the other ASAP. Do not use the D3 again for two months. You also need a good multi Vitamin probably one with a little bit of vitamin A if you have been giving too much D3. Repashy Calcium Plus LoD will work well for you if you continue getting her into actual sunlight multiple times a week.

  • Watering - I hand mist her enclosure twice daily from 2-4 minutes. Once before I leave in the morning and once about a hour to 30 mins before lights go out. She has a dripper set up too. Yes, I see her drinking very well.
    Adding humidity at night would benefit her but is not a priority for her eye problem. A cool mist humidifier would do the trick.

  • Fecal Description - Dark brown to brown with a little white-ish calcified bit and clear urination/liquid. Has stayed consistent coloring/liquid. She’s pooing ever day-every other day. No she has not been tested and I honestly do not trust any of the vets in my area to check her as I’ve lost my previous veiled Cham that I loved to death to a incompetent vet that claimed she was a rep specialist and yet still called my chameleon a, and I’m quoting here, “Such a pretty gecko”. No, sadly, she has not been tested.
    If you tell us your city and state we may be able to get you a recommendation.

  • History - She has bred once and lain two fertile(?) clutches with her previous owner, being cross bred with a Ambanja. I don’t know if this is possibly what damaged her eye? If maybe the male got a little too rough and scratched it? Or a feeder scratched it, I just don’t know. She came this way to me and I’m just curious to know if I can possibly help return her sight.



Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - She is currently in a 18’x18’x24’ for a day or two more while her new cage finishes drying and airing out. It’s just been stained and urethane. But her permi enclosure is Pine wood frame, with glass sides, wood backing, plexiglass door, screen venting beneath door and a screen top. It is a hand build (myself) 2”x2”x4”. She would be in my bigger cage, a 2”x4”x7” but its been out of commission since I moved a few years ago and need to find a back paneling replacement since its glass didn’t survive the move.



  • Lighting - Her current lighting is a zoomed 5.0 accompanied with a red inferred night light for heat maintainability as it stays around 72 in my room. Her lights come on with the sun’s schedule, so its a progressing change through the year but currently maintaining 8am to 8pm(with sunrise and sunset)
    Stick to the 12 on 12 off schedule she if from the equator and they don't have the seasonal day variation that we do. She needs darkness at night, cool temperatures and higher humidity so no red light

  • Temperature - Cage floor is fluctuating from 74-76, the middle fluctuating from 76-80, and her basking is almost 86 degrees. Her night temp dropped a bit lower than what I would have liked her first night so she has a red inferred night bulb to maintain heat, and it holds where she sleeps at 74 degrees. I have small temp gauges stuck to the bottom of her cage, the middle and just above her basking spot.
    Down to 55˚F at night is acceptable

  • Humidity - Humidity maintains from 67-82, with help from dipper maintaining humidity while I’m gone. I’m misting her morning and evening about an hour to 30 mins before lights out, and it maintains a percentage that I feel comfortable with.(I know it should be higher, but until her permi cage is set up I don’t know if there’s much I can do. And naturally its pretty humid where I live too, so that’s helping in my favor) I have a hygrometer in the middle of her back glass panel.
    Good



  • Plants - In her current temp enclosure I have fake satin foliage, while her permi cage has a umbrella plant. I would like to put another plant in there until her umbrella plant grows tall enough but I don’t know what will be viney enough to filter enough light down to her main plant so it doesn’t die.
    Good

  • Placement - Her current temp cage is located on my desk a few feet from my bed. There is a fan about 10 feet away, no air vents and it is a semi high traffic area, but she does not stress/show stress coloration when ever I or my dog walks near. She just watches on and kinda tilts her head this way and that. The top of her cage is about 5 feet off the ground, almost half way up a 12” wall it’s backed against.


Has anyone heard of this happening before? If so, can it be healed? I’m honestly afraid that she’s permanently blind on that side, but hope this isn’t the case and she’s just got a nasty looking eye infection? If nothing can be done, I understand. But it’s just worrying when I have to make sure she sees food on her right side and she’s left completely defenseless to anything on her left..
I suspect she has one of two problems with that eye. Either she has something stuck under the lid that is irritating it and need to be flushed out. She could have got grit in her eye while laying eggs or retained some shed skin. You can try flushing it but a qualified vet may do a better job.
The other possibility is a Vitamin A deficiency that can cause damage to the tissues around the eye and irritation. A regular supplement schedule with multi vitamin that includes vit. A as retinol may help over time.
Untreated either of these problems can cause scaring and permanent blindness.
 

GoodKarma19

Chameleon Enthusiast
I'd definitely get her to a good reptile vet with cham experience. @jannb is a wizard, and can give all sorts of recommendations for a vet close to you!

My girl, Lily, had problems with her eyes (especially her left eye) when she first came to me, and it has since been almost completely resolved. She required a few eye flushes (plugged nasolacrimal duct, grit in her eye) and a course of 3-Biotic eye ointment (NeoPolyBac + H) to get her on the road to recovery, as well as a vet prescribed regimen of extra vitamins to help make up for potential deficiencies.
 
Last edited:

MissSkittles

Chameleon Enthusiast
Lighting - Her current lighting is a zoomed 5.0

Just curious if you are using linear UVB or the compact type that fits in a dome?
 

Herpcentric

Member
  • Your Chameleon - Female Ambilobe Panther Chameleon. Her previous owner said she is a year and a half old. I have only had her for a week from the date of Tuesday, August 20th. She is also on the smaller side of females I’ve noticed.
    She will need a lay bin as she will continue to lay eggs most of her life. Her eggs may be fertile for a clutch or two.

  • Handling - I handle her once a day to take her outside to her outside enclose to sunbathe for about a hour to hour and a half every day, as I’ve read on several sites that it’s very crucial for panthers to receive natural sunlight when ever possible if not daily.
    As long as she gets daily sunlight you won't need D3 but will need to add it twice monthly if you can't get her outside.

  • Feeding - Mealworms and crickets as of right now. With intentions to order butter worms and dubia roaches in near future if I can’t find them at this up-coming rep convention. Also would love to give her horn worms as I’ve heard they are great for extra hydration. Currently she is eating 2-4 mealworms with 3-4 crickets every day around 5-7 pm when I return from classes. Her crickets are got loaded with fresh Carrots, Romain Lettuce, Gala Apples and small Golden Potatoes. And they have just tried Cucumber and love it. (I’ve learned you treat your chams food like you would them, royalty!)
    Mealworms are a poor feeder do't get anymore and switch to super worms in their place in addition to the other feeders you are adding. Here are some other gut load ingredient you can add: Best - These gutloading ingredients are best because they are highest in calcium, low in phosphorus, oxalates and goitrogens. They should be the primary components of your gutload: mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion leaves, collard greens, escarole lettuce, papaya, watercress and alfalfa.
    Good - These gutloading ingredients are good because they are moderately high in calcium and other vitamins/minerals. They should be used in addition to those from the previous category: sweet potato, carrots, oranges, mango, butternut squash, kale, apples, beet greens, blackberries, bok choy and green beans.



  • Supplements - Currently using Exo-Terra Calcium as a everyday supplement. It is a very light dusting with any excess blown off the feeders. I have great intention of getting Repashy super plus for her 2-3 times monthly dusting. I know she can not have phosphorus and D3 and it was painful and scary to buy the Exo-Terra, but she seems to be doing good with it.(would greatly appreciate pointers if there is a better brand out there that does not contain phosphorus/ vitamin D3)
    Exoterra has two calcium supplements one without D3 and one with D3. If you are using the one with D3 stop immediately and get the other ASAP. Do not use the D3 again for two months. You also need a good multi Vitamin probably one with a little bit of vitamin A if you have been giving too much D3. Repashy Calcium Plus LoD will work well for you if you continue getting her into actual sunlight multiple times a week.

  • Watering - I hand mist her enclosure twice daily from 2-4 minutes. Once before I leave in the morning and once about a hour to 30 mins before lights go out. She has a dripper set up too. Yes, I see her drinking very well.
    Adding humidity at night would benefit her but is not a priority for her eye problem. A cool mist humidifier would do the trick.

  • Fecal Description - Dark brown to brown with a little white-ish calcified bit and clear urination/liquid. Has stayed consistent coloring/liquid. She’s pooing ever day-every other day. No she has not been tested and I honestly do not trust any of the vets in my area to check her as I’ve lost my previous veiled Cham that I loved to death to a incompetent vet that claimed she was a rep specialist and yet still called my chameleon a, and I’m quoting here, “Such a pretty gecko”. No, sadly, she has not been tested.
    If you tell us your city and state we may be able to get you a recommendation.

  • History - She has bred once and lain two fertile(?) clutches with her previous owner, being cross bred with a Ambanja. I don’t know if this is possibly what damaged her eye? If maybe the male got a little too rough and scratched it? Or a feeder scratched it, I just don’t know. She came this way to me and I’m just curious to know if I can possibly help return her sight.



Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - She is currently in a 18’x18’x24’ for a day or two more while her new cage finishes drying and airing out. It’s just been stained and urethane. But her permi enclosure is Pine wood frame, with glass sides, wood backing, plexiglass door, screen venting beneath door and a screen top. It is a hand build (myself) 2”x2”x4”. She would be in my bigger cage, a 2”x4”x7” but its been out of commission since I moved a few years ago and need to find a back paneling replacement since its glass didn’t survive the move.



  • Lighting - Her current lighting is a zoomed 5.0 accompanied with a red inferred night light for heat maintainability as it stays around 72 in my room. Her lights come on with the sun’s schedule, so its a progressing change through the year but currently maintaining 8am to 8pm(with sunrise and sunset)
    Stick to the 12 on 12 off schedule she if from the equator and they don't have the seasonal day variation that we do. She needs darkness at night, cool temperatures and higher humidity so no red light

  • Temperature - Cage floor is fluctuating from 74-76, the middle fluctuating from 76-80, and her basking is almost 86 degrees. Her night temp dropped a bit lower than what I would have liked her first night so she has a red inferred night bulb to maintain heat, and it holds where she sleeps at 74 degrees. I have small temp gauges stuck to the bottom of her cage, the middle and just above her basking spot.
    Down to 55˚F at night is acceptable

  • Humidity - Humidity maintains from 67-82, with help from dipper maintaining humidity while I’m gone. I’m misting her morning and evening about an hour to 30 mins before lights out, and it maintains a percentage that I feel comfortable with.(I know it should be higher, but until her permi cage is set up I don’t know if there’s much I can do. And naturally its pretty humid where I live too, so that’s helping in my favor) I have a hygrometer in the middle of her back glass panel.
    Good



  • Plants - In her current temp enclosure I have fake satin foliage, while her permi cage has a umbrella plant. I would like to put another plant in there until her umbrella plant grows tall enough but I don’t know what will be viney enough to filter enough light down to her main plant so it doesn’t die.
    Good

  • Placement - Her current temp cage is located on my desk a few feet from my bed. There is a fan about 10 feet away, no air vents and it is a semi high traffic area, but she does not stress/show stress coloration when ever I or my dog walks near. She just watches on and kinda tilts her head this way and that. The top of her cage is about 5 feet off the ground, almost half way up a 12” wall it’s backed against.


Has anyone heard of this happening before? If so, can it be healed? I’m honestly afraid that she’s permanently blind on that side, but hope this isn’t the case and she’s just got a nasty looking eye infection? If nothing can be done, I understand. But it’s just worrying when I have to make sure she sees food on her right side and she’s left completely defenseless to anything on her left..
I suspect she has one of two problems with that eye. Either she has something stuck under the lid that is irritating it and need to be flushed out. She could have got grit in her eye while laying eggs or retained some shed skin. You can try flushing it but a qualified vet may do a better job.
The other possibility is a Vitamin A deficiency that can cause damage to the tissues around the eye and irritation. A regular supplement schedule with multi vitamin that includes vit. A as retinol may help over time.
Untreated either of these problems can cause scaring and permanent blindness.
Permanent enclosure is set up with a lay bin if she doesn’t lay in plant. Actually wanted supper worms but store was fresh out. Their horn worms were WAY to big for Peaches. To keep variety in her diet I settled (hate this word so much) and got mealies. She goes outside everyday from an hour to hour and a half. Exception of today. Her Exo-Terra dust does NOT have D3. Don’t know how many times I checked those ingredients to be sure I wouldn’t harm her. Sat squatted in that isle almost an hour debating its safety.

244420


Ingredient list of calcium dust. No phosphorous/vitamin D3. Will be misting 3 times daily big enclosure along with a humidifier if I can find one small enough to fit a 2”x2”, if she still needs extra humidity? Some of your points were a tad conflicting. Sorry!
 

Herpcentric

Member
  • Your Chameleon - Female Ambilobe Panther Chameleon. Her previous owner said she is a year and a half old. I have only had her for a week from the date of Tuesday, August 20th. She is also on the smaller side of females I’ve noticed.
    She will need a lay bin as she will continue to lay eggs most of her life. Her eggs may be fertile for a clutch or two.

  • Handling - I handle her once a day to take her outside to her outside enclose to sunbathe for about a hour to hour and a half every day, as I’ve read on several sites that it’s very crucial for panthers to receive natural sunlight when ever possible if not daily.
    As long as she gets daily sunlight you won't need D3 but will need to add it twice monthly if you can't get her outside.

  • Feeding - Mealworms and crickets as of right now. With intentions to order butter worms and dubia roaches in near future if I can’t find them at this up-coming rep convention. Also would love to give her horn worms as I’ve heard they are great for extra hydration. Currently she is eating 2-4 mealworms with 3-4 crickets every day around 5-7 pm when I return from classes. Her crickets are got loaded with fresh Carrots, Romain Lettuce, Gala Apples and small Golden Potatoes. And they have just tried Cucumber and love it. (I’ve learned you treat your chams food like you would them, royalty!)
    Mealworms are a poor feeder do't get anymore and switch to super worms in their place in addition to the other feeders you are adding. Here are some other gut load ingredient you can add: Best - These gutloading ingredients are best because they are highest in calcium, low in phosphorus, oxalates and goitrogens. They should be the primary components of your gutload: mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion leaves, collard greens, escarole lettuce, papaya, watercress and alfalfa.
    Good - These gutloading ingredients are good because they are moderately high in calcium and other vitamins/minerals. They should be used in addition to those from the previous category: sweet potato, carrots, oranges, mango, butternut squash, kale, apples, beet greens, blackberries, bok choy and green beans.



  • Supplements - Currently using Exo-Terra Calcium as a everyday supplement. It is a very light dusting with any excess blown off the feeders. I have great intention of getting Repashy super plus for her 2-3 times monthly dusting. I know she can not have phosphorus and D3 and it was painful and scary to buy the Exo-Terra, but she seems to be doing good with it.(would greatly appreciate pointers if there is a better brand out there that does not contain phosphorus/ vitamin D3)
    Exoterra has two calcium supplements one without D3 and one with D3. If you are using the one with D3 stop immediately and get the other ASAP. Do not use the D3 again for two months. You also need a good multi Vitamin probably one with a little bit of vitamin A if you have been giving too much D3. Repashy Calcium Plus LoD will work well for you if you continue getting her into actual sunlight multiple times a week.

  • Watering - I hand mist her enclosure twice daily from 2-4 minutes. Once before I leave in the morning and once about a hour to 30 mins before lights go out. She has a dripper set up too. Yes, I see her drinking very well.
    Adding humidity at night would benefit her but is not a priority for her eye problem. A cool mist humidifier would do the trick.

  • Fecal Description - Dark brown to brown with a little white-ish calcified bit and clear urination/liquid. Has stayed consistent coloring/liquid. She’s pooing ever day-every other day. No she has not been tested and I honestly do not trust any of the vets in my area to check her as I’ve lost my previous veiled Cham that I loved to death to a incompetent vet that claimed she was a rep specialist and yet still called my chameleon a, and I’m quoting here, “Such a pretty gecko”. No, sadly, she has not been tested.
    If you tell us your city and state we may be able to get you a recommendation.

  • History - She has bred once and lain two fertile(?) clutches with her previous owner, being cross bred with a Ambanja. I don’t know if this is possibly what damaged her eye? If maybe the male got a little too rough and scratched it? Or a feeder scratched it, I just don’t know. She came this way to me and I’m just curious to know if I can possibly help return her sight.



Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - She is currently in a 18’x18’x24’ for a day or two more while her new cage finishes drying and airing out. It’s just been stained and urethane. But her permi enclosure is Pine wood frame, with glass sides, wood backing, plexiglass door, screen venting beneath door and a screen top. It is a hand build (myself) 2”x2”x4”. She would be in my bigger cage, a 2”x4”x7” but its been out of commission since I moved a few years ago and need to find a back paneling replacement since its glass didn’t survive the move.



  • Lighting - Her current lighting is a zoomed 5.0 accompanied with a red inferred night light for heat maintainability as it stays around 72 in my room. Her lights come on with the sun’s schedule, so its a progressing change through the year but currently maintaining 8am to 8pm(with sunrise and sunset)
    Stick to the 12 on 12 off schedule she if from the equator and they don't have the seasonal day variation that we do. She needs darkness at night, cool temperatures and higher humidity so no red light

  • Temperature - Cage floor is fluctuating from 74-76, the middle fluctuating from 76-80, and her basking is almost 86 degrees. Her night temp dropped a bit lower than what I would have liked her first night so she has a red inferred night bulb to maintain heat, and it holds where she sleeps at 74 degrees. I have small temp gauges stuck to the bottom of her cage, the middle and just above her basking spot.
    Down to 55˚F at night is acceptable

  • Humidity - Humidity maintains from 67-82, with help from dipper maintaining humidity while I’m gone. I’m misting her morning and evening about an hour to 30 mins before lights out, and it maintains a percentage that I feel comfortable with.(I know it should be higher, but until her permi cage is set up I don’t know if there’s much I can do. And naturally its pretty humid where I live too, so that’s helping in my favor) I have a hygrometer in the middle of her back glass panel.
    Good



  • Plants - In her current temp enclosure I have fake satin foliage, while her permi cage has a umbrella plant. I would like to put another plant in there until her umbrella plant grows tall enough but I don’t know what will be viney enough to filter enough light down to her main plant so it doesn’t die.
    Good

  • Placement - Her current temp cage is located on my desk a few feet from my bed. There is a fan about 10 feet away, no air vents and it is a semi high traffic area, but she does not stress/show stress coloration when ever I or my dog walks near. She just watches on and kinda tilts her head this way and that. The top of her cage is about 5 feet off the ground, almost half way up a 12” wall it’s backed against.


Has anyone heard of this happening before? If so, can it be healed? I’m honestly afraid that she’s permanently blind on that side, but hope this isn’t the case and she’s just got a nasty looking eye infection? If nothing can be done, I understand. But it’s just worrying when I have to make sure she sees food on her right side and she’s left completely defenseless to anything on her left..
I suspect she has one of two problems with that eye. Either she has something stuck under the lid that is irritating it and need to be flushed out. She could have got grit in her eye while laying eggs or retained some shed skin. You can try flushing it but a qualified vet may do a better job.
The other possibility is a Vitamin A deficiency that can cause damage to the tissues around the eye and irritation. A regular supplement schedule with multi vitamin that includes vit. A as retinol may help over time.
Untreated either of these problems can cause scaring and permanent blindness.
Live on western outskirts of Fort Worth Texas. And do not have much time to travel far to take her to a vet 2-3 hours out. Hate it. I want to give this baby the most spoiled, best life. When I save some better money to afford a vet bill I will def be taking her for a check up.
8am-8pm for lighting then seeing as that’s what it is currently. Red light off at night if you’re absolutely sure?
As for her eye, I’m hoping for the first you suggested, but honestly looks like a type of cataract. It’s very filmy/foggy like my old dogs eyes. Even has foggy pupil. But will definitely try washing it to see if that helps. How would you suggest I go about flushing her eye with out irritating further, or stressing her too much? I’m fearful using tap water. It’s very hard, heavily treated with chemicals. I don’t want to make things worse.
 

Herpcentric

Member
  • Your Chameleon - Female Ambilobe Panther Chameleon. Her previous owner said she is a year and a half old. I have only had her for a week from the date of Tuesday, August 20th. She is also on the smaller side of females I’ve noticed.
    She will need a lay bin as she will continue to lay eggs most of her life. Her eggs may be fertile for a clutch or two.

  • Handling - I handle her once a day to take her outside to her outside enclose to sunbathe for about a hour to hour and a half every day, as I’ve read on several sites that it’s very crucial for panthers to receive natural sunlight when ever possible if not daily.
    As long as she gets daily sunlight you won't need D3 but will need to add it twice monthly if you can't get her outside.

  • Feeding - Mealworms and crickets as of right now. With intentions to order butter worms and dubia roaches in near future if I can’t find them at this up-coming rep convention. Also would love to give her horn worms as I’ve heard they are great for extra hydration. Currently she is eating 2-4 mealworms with 3-4 crickets every day around 5-7 pm when I return from classes. Her crickets are got loaded with fresh Carrots, Romain Lettuce, Gala Apples and small Golden Potatoes. And they have just tried Cucumber and love it. (I’ve learned you treat your chams food like you would them, royalty!)
    Mealworms are a poor feeder do't get anymore and switch to super worms in their place in addition to the other feeders you are adding. Here are some other gut load ingredient you can add: Best - These gutloading ingredients are best because they are highest in calcium, low in phosphorus, oxalates and goitrogens. They should be the primary components of your gutload: mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion leaves, collard greens, escarole lettuce, papaya, watercress and alfalfa.
    Good - These gutloading ingredients are good because they are moderately high in calcium and other vitamins/minerals. They should be used in addition to those from the previous category: sweet potato, carrots, oranges, mango, butternut squash, kale, apples, beet greens, blackberries, bok choy and green beans.



  • Supplements - Currently using Exo-Terra Calcium as a everyday supplement. It is a very light dusting with any excess blown off the feeders. I have great intention of getting Repashy super plus for her 2-3 times monthly dusting. I know she can not have phosphorus and D3 and it was painful and scary to buy the Exo-Terra, but she seems to be doing good with it.(would greatly appreciate pointers if there is a better brand out there that does not contain phosphorus/ vitamin D3)
    Exoterra has two calcium supplements one without D3 and one with D3. If you are using the one with D3 stop immediately and get the other ASAP. Do not use the D3 again for two months. You also need a good multi Vitamin probably one with a little bit of vitamin A if you have been giving too much D3. Repashy Calcium Plus LoD will work well for you if you continue getting her into actual sunlight multiple times a week.

  • Watering - I hand mist her enclosure twice daily from 2-4 minutes. Once before I leave in the morning and once about a hour to 30 mins before lights go out. She has a dripper set up too. Yes, I see her drinking very well.
    Adding humidity at night would benefit her but is not a priority for her eye problem. A cool mist humidifier would do the trick.

  • Fecal Description - Dark brown to brown with a little white-ish calcified bit and clear urination/liquid. Has stayed consistent coloring/liquid. She’s pooing ever day-every other day. No she has not been tested and I honestly do not trust any of the vets in my area to check her as I’ve lost my previous veiled Cham that I loved to death to a incompetent vet that claimed she was a rep specialist and yet still called my chameleon a, and I’m quoting here, “Such a pretty gecko”. No, sadly, she has not been tested.
    If you tell us your city and state we may be able to get you a recommendation.

  • History - She has bred once and lain two fertile(?) clutches with her previous owner, being cross bred with a Ambanja. I don’t know if this is possibly what damaged her eye? If maybe the male got a little too rough and scratched it? Or a feeder scratched it, I just don’t know. She came this way to me and I’m just curious to know if I can possibly help return her sight.



Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - She is currently in a 18’x18’x24’ for a day or two more while her new cage finishes drying and airing out. It’s just been stained and urethane. But her permi enclosure is Pine wood frame, with glass sides, wood backing, plexiglass door, screen venting beneath door and a screen top. It is a hand build (myself) 2”x2”x4”. She would be in my bigger cage, a 2”x4”x7” but its been out of commission since I moved a few years ago and need to find a back paneling replacement since its glass didn’t survive the move.



  • Lighting - Her current lighting is a zoomed 5.0 accompanied with a red inferred night light for heat maintainability as it stays around 72 in my room. Her lights come on with the sun’s schedule, so its a progressing change through the year but currently maintaining 8am to 8pm(with sunrise and sunset)
    Stick to the 12 on 12 off schedule she if from the equator and they don't have the seasonal day variation that we do. She needs darkness at night, cool temperatures and higher humidity so no red light

  • Temperature - Cage floor is fluctuating from 74-76, the middle fluctuating from 76-80, and her basking is almost 86 degrees. Her night temp dropped a bit lower than what I would have liked her first night so she has a red inferred night bulb to maintain heat, and it holds where she sleeps at 74 degrees. I have small temp gauges stuck to the bottom of her cage, the middle and just above her basking spot.
    Down to 55˚F at night is acceptable

  • Humidity - Humidity maintains from 67-82, with help from dipper maintaining humidity while I’m gone. I’m misting her morning and evening about an hour to 30 mins before lights out, and it maintains a percentage that I feel comfortable with.(I know it should be higher, but until her permi cage is set up I don’t know if there’s much I can do. And naturally its pretty humid where I live too, so that’s helping in my favor) I have a hygrometer in the middle of her back glass panel.
    Good



  • Plants - In her current temp enclosure I have fake satin foliage, while her permi cage has a umbrella plant. I would like to put another plant in there until her umbrella plant grows tall enough but I don’t know what will be viney enough to filter enough light down to her main plant so it doesn’t die.
    Good

  • Placement - Her current temp cage is located on my desk a few feet from my bed. There is a fan about 10 feet away, no air vents and it is a semi high traffic area, but she does not stress/show stress coloration when ever I or my dog walks near. She just watches on and kinda tilts her head this way and that. The top of her cage is about 5 feet off the ground, almost half way up a 12” wall it’s backed against.


Has anyone heard of this happening before? If so, can it be healed? I’m honestly afraid that she’s permanently blind on that side, but hope this isn’t the case and she’s just got a nasty looking eye infection? If nothing can be done, I understand. But it’s just worrying when I have to make sure she sees food on her right side and she’s left completely defenseless to anything on her left..
I suspect she has one of two problems with that eye. Either she has something stuck under the lid that is irritating it and need to be flushed out. She could have got grit in her eye while laying eggs or retained some shed skin. You can try flushing it but a qualified vet may do a better job.
The other possibility is a Vitamin A deficiency that can cause damage to the tissues around the eye and irritation. A regular supplement schedule with multi vitamin that includes vit. A as retinol may help over time.
Untreated either of these problems can cause scaring and permanent blindness.
Should I use a bottled water or like a fish aquarium water treatment tablet to soften the water? Also, on a side/last note. She’s only been mated once and lain two possibly fertile clutches, that first clutch for sure. Are you sure she can still possibly lay more fertile eggs for another clutch or two? On one last note: am I feeding her enough? aside from the mealies, is she eating enough crickets? Today she’s had 6-7 and no mealworms. Her previous owner never told me how much she ate. Nor did he ever tell me when she had lain eggs, or when she had been mated, and it’s hard to get him to respond to any questions. I’m actually going to be searching through general care to see what better suggestions I can find to adjust her daily care! :D Thank you so much! And I’m going to try to get a good pic of her pupil for better description.
 

AnamCara

Chameleon Enthusiast
Use distilled or RI water in your mister and do longer mists to let her wash her eye out and make sure vitamin a is a part of her diet. And absolutley no light at night.

Get the linear bulb asap buy one to fit your bigger enclosure and let it hang over the edge of the small one.
 

JacksJill

Chameleon Enthusiast
I know it is a lot to process.
Here is the care sheet incase I missed any points. https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/panther/
Daytime humidity (Panther chameleons require levels around 50-70%) is usually lower than night time which can be in the 80-100% range.
Is there a specific question I can answer?
Typical supplement schedule for a panther.
"Supplementation:
Feeder insects should be lightly dusted with powdered supplement before being fed to your chameleon. Many keepers successfully use calcium (without D3 or phosphorus) at nearly every feeding, multivitamin once every 2 weeks, and calcium with D3 once every 2 weeks."
Because she get outside daily she probably needs less D3 than normal as UVB in sunlight helps them make their own D3.
 

JacksJill

Chameleon Enthusiast
I would use RO bottled water or distilled in a pump sprayer to gently flush the eye.
Considering your description she probably already has an ulcer or scaring on the surface of the eye. It should be treated with eye meds. I don't know of any practical way to get that without a veterinarian. You should at least try a dose of vitamin A as retinol.
I'm positive about no lights at night.
 

Herpcentric

Member
Use distilled or RI water in your mister and do longer mists to let her wash her eye out and make sure vitamin a is a part of her diet. And absolutley no light at night.

Get the linear bulb asap buy one to fit your bigger enclosure and let it hang over the edge of the small one.
Besides a vet prescription, how do I get vitamin A? I’m not sure my local vet will perceive a little cham vit A when they mainly work with equine/bovine and your common house pets like dogs and cats. Don’t even think they handle birds
 

JacksJill

Chameleon Enthusiast
Vitamin A as retinol is available in some reptile supplements. Repashy calcium plus LoD has it and can be used daily in place of your other supplements, or you can buy human vitamin A supplement capsules and put a very small smear on the back of a feeder insect. Do this only once a month and use very little too much vitamin A is toxic.
The eye ointment would be by prescription only. a veterinarian could give you an antibiotic eye ointment.
 

Herpcentric

Member
I’m going to be calling into the nearest vet with a rep specialist tomorrow. Hopefully I might get a specialists perspective on what might be wrong! But I will def try to rinse her eye in the mean time
 

Herpcentric

Member
Ok, just got back from Vet. She does not have a eye infection. Her cornea is scarred. Vet said it’s recent too because she’s still trying to use the eye to see even though it’s completely blind. There’s nothing in her eye, or socket, but she’s trying to clean her lens. She said its probably from when she was digging and trying to lay that dirt caught her cornea and did some good damage. Her prior owner used sand for a lay bin material. Is it still safe to use that since it’s already been shown it’ll completely blind a eye? Or can I use a mix of materials like substrate and vermiculite? Would that be smarter? I really don’t want to cause any further damage to her eyes!

On a side note, I have a question about food for her, but I’m going to ask it in the food forum
 
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