ChameleonsTree
New Member
First of all you can save money by buying your crickets from a distributor...i use reptilefood.com and you can order a reptarium from LLLreptile for under 40
poop problem
- Thread starter Jewel
- Start date
Get him in a mesh cage asap. I believe the cage can be done over the weekend. He might be able to survive in the glass tank for a while but you dont want him develope some sickness as it is hard to treat a sick chameleon. You can always give him shower in your bath room to make sure he is well hydrate. Place a pot of plant in your bath tub and turn on the shower with lurk warm water for about half hours. Adult veiled need stronger basking light compare to other species, a 100W heat light should do the trick. Live plants are always good for keeping humidity high. Pothos and ficus are the most common used. Ask more questions if you have any confusions, we are all hope to keep him alive and healty
I have kept/bred/raised veiled chameleons for over 12 years now. I've kept chameleons for over 20 years now. I live in an area where the winters are cold and the house is dry....and I have kept some of these chameleons in aquariums...just like many Europeans do. The aquariums usually had a screen lid and were long rather than tall. The cages that I keep them in now have screen lids and doors and the other 3 walls and floor are glass...and I find them hard to keep warm enough and humid enough in the winter. Keeping them as I do, most of my veiled females live to be 6 years old and the males usually live to be even older. BTW, I am not a vet.
I put the basking light at one end of the cage (which I see you have done) and the UVB tube runs the whole length of the cage. This provides a warm area and cooler areas in the cage and helps with the airflow. I leave the lights on 12 to 14 hours a day. Unless the room is very cold at night there is no need for heat on/in the cage at night.
The following information describes the way that I keep my chameleon and my own opinions about keeping veiled chameleons....there are other ways that work for people too which leads to the confusion. You must decide what to do for yourself. Be careful of just reading site after site on the internet...its hard for beginners to determine what information is good and what isn't...as you are already finding out. Here are a couple of sites with good information...
http://adcham.com/
http://www.chameleonnews.com/
IMHO the appropriate basking temperature/cage temperature is important because veiled chameleons need heat to warm up so that they can digest their food...thus use the nutrients that they are given.
I gutload my insects with an appropriate diet. I want the insects to be healthy and possibly contribute to what goes into my chameleons by looking after the insects properly. I use a wide variety or greens (dandelion greens, kale, collards, ROMAINE lettuce, endive, etc. NO CABBAGE, NO SPINACH), and veggies (sweet potatoes, squash, carrots, white potato, zucchini, etc.) to gutload them with. Here is a gutload that many people recommend too...
http://adcham.com/html/husbandry/gutload.html
I dust the insects with phosphorous-free calcium at most feedings because the insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phos. and this helps to even it out.
I use a vitamin powder twice a month that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A because it won't build up in the chameleon's system like preformed vitamin A can.
Because my chameleons rarely get direct sunlight and have to get their UVB from a tube light, I also dust with a vitamin D3/calcium powder twice a month. The light from the sun or the UVB bulb should not pass through glass or plastic. D3 from supplements can build up in a chameleon's system, so caution is needed not to overdo the D3 supplements.
I give my veileds some greens (same as listed above), veggies (except for white potato, same as listed above) and fruit (apple, pear, berries, melon, etc.) in a shallow dish in the cage since after they are mature, they are omnivorous....and it gives the insects something to eat while in the cage too.
I feed insects to my adult veileds every two or three days and I provide the greens, etc. every two or three days too. The wider the variety of insects you can use the better IMHO. Silkworms, superworms, butterworms, crickets and waxworms are usually available. I don't overdo the waxworms though.
I use no substrate with veiled chameleons because too many of the substrates can cause impaction (like calcisand). I don't want to even risk it.
I don't use plastic plants either...and the real ones that I use are well-washed (both sides of the leaves) and the soil covered with stones that are too big for the chameleon to ingest. The plants should be non-toxic too because veileds often/usually eat them.
I mist the chameleons and use a dripper. Its not advisable to let water stand on the floor of the cage because it aids in the growth of mold and bacteria.
You said..."He pooped once the day after we purchased him but has not pooped since"...if he eats he should poop. It might not be every day though. It might be that you have the temperatures in the basking area too low...but I think from the size of the cage and lightbulb you said you use, it shouldn't be too cold. It concerns me that you have used substrates in his cage due to the possibility of impaction.
I hope that your chameleon poops soon and that he will do well for you! He looks very healthy in the photos!
I put the basking light at one end of the cage (which I see you have done) and the UVB tube runs the whole length of the cage. This provides a warm area and cooler areas in the cage and helps with the airflow. I leave the lights on 12 to 14 hours a day. Unless the room is very cold at night there is no need for heat on/in the cage at night.
The following information describes the way that I keep my chameleon and my own opinions about keeping veiled chameleons....there are other ways that work for people too which leads to the confusion. You must decide what to do for yourself. Be careful of just reading site after site on the internet...its hard for beginners to determine what information is good and what isn't...as you are already finding out. Here are a couple of sites with good information...
http://adcham.com/
http://www.chameleonnews.com/
IMHO the appropriate basking temperature/cage temperature is important because veiled chameleons need heat to warm up so that they can digest their food...thus use the nutrients that they are given.
I gutload my insects with an appropriate diet. I want the insects to be healthy and possibly contribute to what goes into my chameleons by looking after the insects properly. I use a wide variety or greens (dandelion greens, kale, collards, ROMAINE lettuce, endive, etc. NO CABBAGE, NO SPINACH), and veggies (sweet potatoes, squash, carrots, white potato, zucchini, etc.) to gutload them with. Here is a gutload that many people recommend too...
http://adcham.com/html/husbandry/gutload.html
I dust the insects with phosphorous-free calcium at most feedings because the insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phos. and this helps to even it out.
I use a vitamin powder twice a month that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A because it won't build up in the chameleon's system like preformed vitamin A can.
Because my chameleons rarely get direct sunlight and have to get their UVB from a tube light, I also dust with a vitamin D3/calcium powder twice a month. The light from the sun or the UVB bulb should not pass through glass or plastic. D3 from supplements can build up in a chameleon's system, so caution is needed not to overdo the D3 supplements.
I give my veileds some greens (same as listed above), veggies (except for white potato, same as listed above) and fruit (apple, pear, berries, melon, etc.) in a shallow dish in the cage since after they are mature, they are omnivorous....and it gives the insects something to eat while in the cage too.
I feed insects to my adult veileds every two or three days and I provide the greens, etc. every two or three days too. The wider the variety of insects you can use the better IMHO. Silkworms, superworms, butterworms, crickets and waxworms are usually available. I don't overdo the waxworms though.
I use no substrate with veiled chameleons because too many of the substrates can cause impaction (like calcisand). I don't want to even risk it.
I don't use plastic plants either...and the real ones that I use are well-washed (both sides of the leaves) and the soil covered with stones that are too big for the chameleon to ingest. The plants should be non-toxic too because veileds often/usually eat them.
I mist the chameleons and use a dripper. Its not advisable to let water stand on the floor of the cage because it aids in the growth of mold and bacteria.
You said..."He pooped once the day after we purchased him but has not pooped since"...if he eats he should poop. It might not be every day though. It might be that you have the temperatures in the basking area too low...but I think from the size of the cage and lightbulb you said you use, it shouldn't be too cold. It concerns me that you have used substrates in his cage due to the possibility of impaction.
I hope that your chameleon poops soon and that he will do well for you! He looks very healthy in the photos!
Jordan
New Member
I would suggest going outside and getting some branches. Take them inside and clean them with soap and water. Break these up into several branches. You want to be able to lay them on the bottom at on side and long enough so that on the other side it rest high off the bottom of the aquarium. With some twisty ties (maybe able to find some in the garbage bags in the kitchen) you can now secure many other branches to give him some room to move around. Also when adding these branches do so in a fashion to snug them all up secure so he can move around safely. Keep in mind when doing this that he will need to get close to the bulb but not directly under it. He can burn his casque (big head) and not be able to feel it. Also speard out the folliage as best you can. Trying to give him several spots to find water and to hide. This should help him out for the time being until you can get something better for him. I bet when you get him in a little bit better enviroment he will be awesome looking. I could kind of see it in the last picture but still he was not all the way relaxed. He also did look hydrated in those photos.
southern Ontario Canada
He finally pooped so I guess I am on the right track thanks to all the help I have received from this forum, I could not have done it myself.
Thanks Kinyonga for all the helpful information. I also live in a very cold climate in the winter and our house is dry in the winter from having the heat on. We have a reptile store near us and the guy there also told us because of our climate it is best to keep him in a glass aquarium because it is imposssible to keep them warm and keep the cage humid in our climate if I go with screen. I am still on the fence about what kind of cage is best. I do know I need a taller cage though. I looked at the gutload recipe you recomended but I never heard of a lot of the stuff but I will do my best to find it.
Thank you everyone for all the helpful tips, I will improve his cage and his surounfings.
Thanks Kinyonga for all the helpful information. I also live in a very cold climate in the winter and our house is dry in the winter from having the heat on. We have a reptile store near us and the guy there also told us because of our climate it is best to keep him in a glass aquarium because it is imposssible to keep them warm and keep the cage humid in our climate if I go with screen. I am still on the fence about what kind of cage is best. I do know I need a taller cage though. I looked at the gutload recipe you recomended but I never heard of a lot of the stuff but I will do my best to find it.
Thank you everyone for all the helpful tips, I will improve his cage and his surounfings.
Brad Ramsey
Retired Moderator
Hooray!!
It's funny to get so excited about poop, but, if you keep animals or have children you understand.
I would still recomend the screen cage. I live in a dry climate as well, and everyone I know who keep chameleons here use screen cages.
Remember that although humidity is important, it is not as crucial with the veileds. A constant drip and frequent mistings are more than they would probably get in Yemen. Plus they like it to get quite a bit cooler at night with their lights off. The thermometer in my enclosure registers 60 or 61 degrees in the morning before I turn on the lights.
I'm so happy he pooped and is not compacted or blocked. You are on your way to having a great experience!
Keep us posted.
-B.
It's funny to get so excited about poop, but, if you keep animals or have children you understand.
I would still recomend the screen cage. I live in a dry climate as well, and everyone I know who keep chameleons here use screen cages.
Remember that although humidity is important, it is not as crucial with the veileds. A constant drip and frequent mistings are more than they would probably get in Yemen. Plus they like it to get quite a bit cooler at night with their lights off. The thermometer in my enclosure registers 60 or 61 degrees in the morning before I turn on the lights.
I'm so happy he pooped and is not compacted or blocked. You are on your way to having a great experience!
Keep us posted.
-B.
Taken from the ADCHAM site..."Indigenous to the southwestern coastal regions of Saudi Arabia and western Yemen, the veiled chameleon occupies the wadis and agricultural lands of this otherwise arid region"...note the word "otherwise"...doesn't that mean that the areas they come from are NOT the dry (arid) regions??
Climate is listed...
http://www.fao.org/ag/agl/aglw/aquastat/countries/yemen/index.stm
"In Aden mean figures of 25°C (January) to 32°C (June) occur, but maximun temperatures over 38°C are quite common, combined with a very high relative air humidity."
http://www.atlapedia.com/online/countries/yemen.htm
"Yemen has a hot and dry climate characterized by high humidity along the coastal regions."
http://www.strategypage.com/articles/operationenduringfreedom/chap5.asp
"Yemen forms the southwestern corner of the Arabian Peninsula, with the Red Sea to the west and the Gulf of Aden to the south, having an area roughly twice the size of Wyoming. Generally, temperatures are hot, ranging from a low of 71oF (22°C) to a high of 99oF (37°C). On the coast and desert plains, conditions are generally hot and humid for most of the year, with very little rain. This is especially true of the southern coast".
Climate is listed...
http://www.fao.org/ag/agl/aglw/aquastat/countries/yemen/index.stm
"In Aden mean figures of 25°C (January) to 32°C (June) occur, but maximun temperatures over 38°C are quite common, combined with a very high relative air humidity."
http://www.atlapedia.com/online/countries/yemen.htm
"Yemen has a hot and dry climate characterized by high humidity along the coastal regions."
http://www.strategypage.com/articles/operationenduringfreedom/chap5.asp
"Yemen forms the southwestern corner of the Arabian Peninsula, with the Red Sea to the west and the Gulf of Aden to the south, having an area roughly twice the size of Wyoming. Generally, temperatures are hot, ranging from a low of 71oF (22°C) to a high of 99oF (37°C). On the coast and desert plains, conditions are generally hot and humid for most of the year, with very little rain. This is especially true of the southern coast".
Dave Weldon
Avid Member
Howdy,
Here's an excerpt from "Chameleons: Nature's Hidden Jewels" by Petr Necas,2005.
"The center of abundance for Chamaeleo calyptratus is around the cities of Tai'zz and Ibb in Yemen. It includes a broad valley (1,200-2,000 m) surrounded by mountains over 2,900 m, that reaches Tihama to the southeast and the coast of the Indian Ocean to the south. This is the "greenest" part of the Arabian Peninsula. Despite the high elevation, the climate is subtropical to tropical. Yearly precipitation can reach 2,000 mm and is highly variable, with a period of "mild rain" in spring and "heavy rain" in summer. A brief, dry period is wedged between the two rainy seasons, and a marked "dry season" occures in fall and winter. Nevertheless, the dry season receives at least 50mm of rain per month."
Here's an excerpt from "Chameleons: Nature's Hidden Jewels" by Petr Necas,2005.
"The center of abundance for Chamaeleo calyptratus is around the cities of Tai'zz and Ibb in Yemen. It includes a broad valley (1,200-2,000 m) surrounded by mountains over 2,900 m, that reaches Tihama to the southeast and the coast of the Indian Ocean to the south. This is the "greenest" part of the Arabian Peninsula. Despite the high elevation, the climate is subtropical to tropical. Yearly precipitation can reach 2,000 mm and is highly variable, with a period of "mild rain" in spring and "heavy rain" in summer. A brief, dry period is wedged between the two rainy seasons, and a marked "dry season" occures in fall and winter. Nevertheless, the dry season receives at least 50mm of rain per month."
Brad Ramsey
Retired Moderator
I stand corrected.
Jordan
New Member
A couple of owners in Canada that I have seen pictures of opt for custom cages. Utilizing three solid walls. The floor, door and bottom are screen I would think this would minimize heat and humidity loss. With the bottom it could be solid depending on what type of drainage you go with. I honestly can do not have these problems with chameleon keeping. The area I am in could almost support veileds outside year round.
I went out today and bought some carpet for his cage so the sand is gone, one problem corrected. I went to a pet store today and they recomended a screen cage, they also had a aquarium with a big mesh part added to the top of it so it made it twice as high. They said it would help with the temperature and humidity because of the glass bottom and the top would be good for the air flow.
I also went to the reptile store and they reccomend a glass aquarium because it will keep in the heat and moisture. I am still confused. My son said he is going to build a screen cage. I hope this is the best solution. Are there any other Canadians from Ontario (Hamilton area) on this site and if so, what do you use?
I also went to the reptile store and they reccomend a glass aquarium because it will keep in the heat and moisture. I am still confused. My son said he is going to build a screen cage. I hope this is the best solution. Are there any other Canadians from Ontario (Hamilton area) on this site and if so, what do you use?
Jordan
New Member
Really even amonst owners people just kind of do stuff their own way. All have pros and cons to them. This is a good site to establish the way you are going to try it and hopefully some other people who have did it that way for some advice every now and again. I think the reason most people jumped in so quick to try to help out is that we have all heard those pet shop line: "they change colors to match their backgrounds, they will only grow to the size of the enclosure, handle them alot they will warm up to you." Feel free to start more specific threads if you need to. Some answers are opinionated. Some will be factual. Some have just developed into standards. It is just good to here different views from both sides of the fence before jumping in.
DrewNYC
New Member
jewel
as far as the cage thing you need to make a choice and work it, i live in new york so we also are cold and dry but i still go with the screen cage and improvise. i hang heavy clear plastic on the sides and back to help with humidity. the problem with the aquarium is where is all that misting water going? soaking into the reptile carpet? does it stay wet or dry out between misting? mold and bacteria can kill.
the good thing with screen is the ventilation (which would dry out the cage between misting) and then in the summer when it is hot and humid there is no worry.
any answer will work if you do the right things!
drew
as far as the cage thing you need to make a choice and work it, i live in new york so we also are cold and dry but i still go with the screen cage and improvise. i hang heavy clear plastic on the sides and back to help with humidity. the problem with the aquarium is where is all that misting water going? soaking into the reptile carpet? does it stay wet or dry out between misting? mold and bacteria can kill.
the good thing with screen is the ventilation (which would dry out the cage between misting) and then in the summer when it is hot and humid there is no worry.
any answer will work if you do the right things!
drew
Excellent info, but one correction:
That should be 90-95 degrees FAHRENHEIT, not Celsius. Sorry to split hairs, but 194-203 degrees Fahrenheit is (obviously) too hot.
First post, just wanted to jump in and help out.
JFab
http://blog.jfab.com
That should be 90-95 degrees FAHRENHEIT, not Celsius. Sorry to split hairs, but 194-203 degrees Fahrenheit is (obviously) too hot.
First post, just wanted to jump in and help out.
JFab
http://blog.jfab.com
