Right now I’m using the repti calcium every feeding that she came with.
Perfect! I have the one with d3 and I read you should do that every 2 weeks?
Yes. I was going to do that on the 1st, 14th, 28th of each month but I haven’t started yet.
Ok I also heard to do the multivitamin the same amount as well so I was going to get that.
Yes, you could get a calcium with D3 that you’d give once every other weeks (the weeks you don’t give the D3) OR you could get a combination product like Reptivite with D3 or Repashy calcium plus LoD that you’d use one feeding every other week instead of the seperate D3 & multivitamin. I’ve been doing crickets so far, we got meal worms as treats and then I read that they’re not even that good so I’m going to get the better worms.
Attaching a couple of graphics below for you. There’s several really great staple feeders and variety is best. Many in line vendors sell variety packs (dubia.com, rainbow mealworms to name a couple) which are convenient. Just as important as what you feed your chameleon is what you feed your feeder bugs. A well fed healthy bug will be more nutritious than one barely clinging to life.
Here is my cage. It’s all screen that they hand built and everything in it came with it.
It’s impossible for me to tell how big it is. The standard minimum for an adult is 2x2x4’ or equivalent. Dragon Strand enclosures are nice but if not fitting easily into your budget, Dragon Ledges are a fantastic way to modify a budget enclosure to hold branches, vines and even plants. I really gave my ledges a workout holding super heavy things and they never failed. There’s a stool and a little metal stand in there I want to get rid of and I want to put more branches and plants in there.
Absolutely! The more, the merrier. That metal bucket was going to be her laying bin that they included but I’m going a different route with a plastic tub I think.
As long as whatever you use is large enough. I got a mister today and will set that up.
Ideally you’ll set up your misting sessions to be at least 2 minutes right before lights go on and off and optionally you could add a 1 minute misting mid day. You want the enclosure to dry out in between. I did get one of those double lamp things because my plan was to do the lighted heat lamp and then the heat emitter bulb and have that one set to a temperature power supply to keep the heat up, especially at night because my house does get cold.
Cold nights are good! Veileds are very hardy and unless your house is going below 60 or even as low as the mid 50’s, that’s fine. With a good temp drop below at least 70, you can add a cool mist humidifier/fogger and boost night time humidity all the way. That simulates the natural hydration cycle like that in the wild thru fog. Ideal daytime humidity needs to be between 30-50%. Ideal basking temp during the day should stay around 80.
Don’t let the spot where the heat emitter was go to waste. It’s a perfect spot for a plant light like this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BRKG7X1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 What is your uvb - I believe I see a linear fixture but is it a T5 or T8? The info should be written on the end of the bulb. Having the correct uvb source and having it at the correct distance is essential.
I also thought about a backdrop too but haven’t figured out how I want to do that was was going to look at what others have done with their enclosures first.
The options are endless! There are commercial backdrops, but I’m not up on how they work attaching to screen. Many use shower curtains, primarily to prevent the water from misting to spray on walls and such. Some make faux backdrops. Some leave it all clear and attach clear acrylic/pvc panels to make a hybrid style. Myself - I had made faux background panels which were nice but after a bit I realized they were so dark. Now I’m using a light blue cloudy sky shower curtain on the outside and the screen hides the cloud details. But, it’s light and that’s what my goal was.
I’ve been looking into getting a chameleon for years and off and on reading about everything I need to do, and then I came up on this great rehoming deal and jumped on it.
Excellent! Everything in its proper time. 
I just want to make sure I’m doing everything right. One day I do want one of those dragon strand enclosures that I see in the Neptune videos.
I appreciate everyone’s help!
We enjoy helping and spreading success in keeping our amazing chameleons healthy and happy. 
Don’t be afraid to ask any questions you may have.
Regardless, she doesn’t look gravid. She may be receptive since she is showing color. Has she been very active or restless? Mine wander endlessly up, down and all around everywhere continuously when receptive. If that sounds about right for her, start getting her lay bin ready and put it in her enclosure. Some chams like to poop in a particular area. If you can find her poop spot, you’ll know not to put the lay bin too close. I use big bins (my chams have preferred bigger - pic below) and fill to only 5-6“ deep with moistened washed play sand. I do drill some tiny little holes in the bin bottom so it won’t become a muddy pond. Once the bin is set in place, it won’t leak sand. I always put a branch and a vine at least as ways in/out and if a pothos vine is long enough, hang that going in too. When time is getting to what I think is close, I get my cover ready. With thin or florist wire, I make attachments to hang a light sheet or torn open pillow case and usually just hang one end so when she goes in her bin, all I have to do is pull the sheet and secure it with a safety pin. I only cover the bottom half or third so she feels hidden and can’t see anyone.
I was thinking for the night time heat to not go below 65 at the basking spot. It gets colder than that in the house. My uvb is a t5. I read that they should be replaced about every 6months? So I would replace in about October
