New owner. Underweight?

[Throwingstones]

I just got this girl a few days ago. I’m unsure on age, the prior owner said she’s about to lay a clutch and I’m guessing her first since they didn’t get the laying box ready. I mainly want to know if she’s underweight. I’m afraid to feed her too much and somehow cause egg binding when she does lay. Also are her colors alright? I’m assuming the brown is for heat, I don’t think it’s warm enough for her and I have more stuff coming. She did turn a red hue to hunt so that was cool but it wasn’t very vibrant.

 

[Beman]

Hey there. Welcome to the forum. Can you post a few more pics of her up close without the cage screen in between? Did they say how long they had her for? How long do you think she is from tip of nose to her vent?

 

[Throwingstones]

The prior picture is from right after bringing her home. These two were about 10min ago and the lights have only been on an hour or so. I’m going to guess maybe about 6in without the tail? She’s pretty pissy even when she was with them. So I can’t really handle her, which I don’t want to do too much anyway. They said the first cage she had that was smaller she was nicer. Didn’t give me a timeline. Mentioned she was from petco. I’ll ask the prior owner. I just want to make sure I’m starting off on the right foot.

 

[Beman]

I am not seeing any signs of being receptive or gravid. Her coloring is quite plain for that. If you go to this page you can see what normal adult female coloring is vs receptive and then gravid. https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/

Overall she looks good. No signs of MBD. Eyes look good. Being pissy is normal for a veiled regardless of gender.

And there are no tarsal spurs on the back of the back feet right?

 

[Throwingstones]

Not that I saw. I will look again tonight.

 

[Throwingstones]

Prior owner said the store thought she was 2-3 months old when she got her and she’s had 2 sheds since.

 

[Beman]

Prior owner said the store thought she was 2-3 months old when she got her and she’s had 2 sheds since.

Yeah she looks to be somewhere in the 5-6 months range...

Should still be getting about a dozen medium feeders a day at this point. With correct supplementation.

 

[Throwingstones]

I am not seeing any signs of being receptive or gravid. Her coloring is quite plain for that. If you go to this page you can see what normal adult female coloring is vs receptive and then gravid. https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/

Overall she looks good. No signs of MBD. Eyes look good. Being pissy is normal for a veiled regardless of gender.

And there are no tarsal spurs on the back of the back feet right?

Was able to check. No spurs

 

[MissSkittles]

Was able to check. No spurs

Hi. I hate to ask, but are you positive? Can you get a pic of the back feet?

 

[Throwingstones]

I hope these are good enough. As soon as I opened the door she was moving to her hiding spot

 

[MissSkittles]

I hope these are good enough. As soon as I opened the door she was moving to her hiding spot

Yeah…you do have a girl. Interesting as she has some visible vertical bars and in a couple of pics her casque looks big, which are male traits. I guess we’ll just say she’s a Tom boy. Regardless, she doesn’t look gravid. She may be receptive since she is showing color. Has she been very active or restless? Mine wander endlessly up, down and all around everywhere continuously when receptive. If that sounds about right for her, start getting her lay bin ready and put it in her enclosure. Some chams like to poop in a particular area. If you can find her poop spot, you’ll know not to put the lay bin too close. I use big bins (my chams have preferred bigger - pic below) and fill to only 5-6“ deep with moistened washed play sand. I do drill some tiny little holes in the bin bottom so it won’t become a muddy pond. Once the bin is set in place, it won’t leak sand. I always put a branch and a vine at least as ways in/out and if a pothos vine is long enough, hang that going in too. When time is getting to what I think is close, I get my cover ready. With thin or florist wire, I make attachments to hang a light sheet or torn open pillow case and usually just hang one end so when she goes in her bin, all I have to do is pull the sheet and secure it with a safety pin. I only cover the bottom half or third so she feels hidden and can’t see anyone.
Also adding pics of what my girls looked like when gravid. One was very subtle and only her dots darkened. The other‘s more pronounced and all of her body and markings darken. Sometimes they’d have a little egg lump visible when they moved a certain way. I wasn’t much for feeling them for eggs.

 

[Throwingstones]

Yeah…you do have a girl. Interesting as she has some visible vertical bars and in a couple of pics her casque looks big, which are male traits. I guess we’ll just say she’s a Tom boy. Regardless, she doesn’t look gravid. She may be receptive since she is showing color. Has she been very active or restless? Mine wander endlessly up, down and all around everywhere continuously when receptive. If that sounds about right for her, start getting her lay bin ready and put it in her enclosure. Some chams like to poop in a particular area. If you can find her poop spot, you’ll know not to put the lay bin too close. I use big bins (my chams have preferred bigger - pic below) and fill to only 5-6“ deep with moistened washed play sand. I do drill some tiny little holes in the bin bottom so it won’t become a muddy pond. Once the bin is set in place, it won’t leak sand. I always put a branch and a vine at least as ways in/out and if a pothos vine is long enough, hang that going in too. When time is getting to what I think is close, I get my cover ready. With thin or florist wire, I make attachments to hang a light sheet or torn open pillow case and usually just hang one end so when she goes in her bin, all I have to do is pull the sheet and secure it with a safety pin. I only cover the bottom half or third so she feels hidden and can’t see anyone.
Also adding pics of what my girls looked like when gravid. One was very subtle and only her dots darkened. The other‘s more pronounced and all of her body and markings darken. Sometimes they’d have a little egg lump visible when they moved a certain way. I wasn’t much for feeling them for eggs.
View attachment 339947View attachment 339948View attachment 339949View attachment 339950

So last night and today she got those little dark green spots and she bloated herself. She was basking and the brown went away. I assumed that she finally got warm enough. I didn’t grab a picture and she didn’t stay that way for long. The laying bin stuff I ordered won’t be here until after the weekend. Do you think I need to get something sooner?

Also question about doing the calcium powder. What I’m doing is just putting the crickets in a smaller Tupperware and sprinkling powder and lightly shaking them to get coated and they end up like all white I might be doing too much though. I saw a video and they used like tweezers and put a dash in there and they looked like they were hardly coated. What should it look like?

 

[MissSkittles]

Also question about doing the calcium powder. What I’m doing is just putting the crickets in a smaller Tupperware and sprinkling powder and lightly shaking them to get coated and they end up like all white I might be doing too much though. I saw a video and they used like tweezers and put a dash in there and they looked like they were hardly coated. What should it look like?

You want the feeders to be lightly coated with the supplement and not looking like powdered donuts. It is hard sometimes to get the right amount. I’ve tried using the tongs and they don’t pick up enough for the amount of feeders I’ve needed. I just put a tiny pinch in a deli cup and then the feeders. They coat themselves as they walk thru.
I have to ask, especially since you have a girl - what supplements are you giving and how often? Since you’re a new member I’ll also offer to review all of your husbandry if you’d like - make sure you have everything as perfect as possible.

 

[Throwingstones]

You want the feeders to be lightly coated with the supplement and not looking like powdered donuts. It is hard sometimes to get the right amount. I’ve tried using the tongs and they don’t pick up enough for the amount of feeders I’ve needed. I just put a tiny pinch in a deli cup and then the feeders. They coat themselves as they walk thru.
I have to ask, especially since you have a girl - what supplements are you giving and how often? Since you’re a new member I’ll also offer to review all of your husbandry if you’d like - make sure you have everything as perfect as possible.

Right now I’m using the repti calcium every feeding that she came with. I have the one with d3 and I read you should do that every 2 weeks? I was going to do that on the 1st, 14th, 28th of each month but I haven’t started yet. I also heard to do the multivitamin the same amount as well so I was going to get that. I’ve been doing crickets so far, we got meal worms as treats and then I read that they’re not even that good so I’m going to get the better worms.

Here is my cage. It’s all screen that they hand built and everything in it came with it. There’s a stool and a little metal stand in there I want to get rid of and I want to put more branches and plants in there. That metal bucket was going to be her laying bin that they included but I’m going a different route with a plastic tub I think. I got a mister today and will set that up. I did get one of those double lamp things because my plan was to do the lighted heat lamp and then the heat emitter bulb and have that one set to a temperature power supply to keep the heat up, especially at night because my house does get cold.

I also thought about a backdrop too but haven’t figured out how I want to do that was was going to look at what others have done with their enclosures first.

I’ve been looking into getting a chameleon for years and off and on reading about everything I need to do, and then I came up on this great rehoming deal and jumped on it. I just want to make sure I’m doing everything right. One day I do want one of those dragon strand enclosures that I see in the Neptune videos.

I appreciate everyone’s help!

 

[MissSkittles]

Right now I’m using the repti calcium every feeding that she came with. Perfect! I have the one with d3 and I read you should do that every 2 weeks? Yes. I was going to do that on the 1st, 14th, 28th of each month but I haven’t started yet. Ok I also heard to do the multivitamin the same amount as well so I was going to get that. Yes, you could get a calcium with D3 that you’d give once every other weeks (the weeks you don’t give the D3) OR you could get a combination product like Reptivite with D3 or Repashy calcium plus LoD that you’d use one feeding every other week instead of the seperate D3 & multivitamin. I’ve been doing crickets so far, we got meal worms as treats and then I read that they’re not even that good so I’m going to get the better worms. Attaching a couple of graphics below for you. There’s several really great staple feeders and variety is best. Many in line vendors sell variety packs (dubia.com, rainbow mealworms to name a couple) which are convenient. Just as important as what you feed your chameleon is what you feed your feeder bugs. A well fed healthy bug will be more nutritious than one barely clinging to life.

Here is my cage. It’s all screen that they hand built and everything in it came with it. It’s impossible for me to tell how big it is. The standard minimum for an adult is 2x2x4’ or equivalent. Dragon Strand enclosures are nice but if not fitting easily into your budget, Dragon Ledges are a fantastic way to modify a budget enclosure to hold branches, vines and even plants. I really gave my ledges a workout holding super heavy things and they never failed. There’s a stool and a little metal stand in there I want to get rid of and I want to put more branches and plants in there. Absolutely! The more, the merrier. That metal bucket was going to be her laying bin that they included but I’m going a different route with a plastic tub I think. As long as whatever you use is large enough. I got a mister today and will set that up. Ideally you’ll set up your misting sessions to be at least 2 minutes right before lights go on and off and optionally you could add a 1 minute misting mid day. You want the enclosure to dry out in between. I did get one of those double lamp things because my plan was to do the lighted heat lamp and then the heat emitter bulb and have that one set to a temperature power supply to keep the heat up, especially at night because my house does get cold. Cold nights are good! Veileds are very hardy and unless your house is going below 60 or even as low as the mid 50’s, that’s fine. With a good temp drop below at least 70, you can add a cool mist humidifier/fogger and boost night time humidity all the way. That simulates the natural hydration cycle like that in the wild thru fog. Ideal daytime humidity needs to be between 30-50%. Ideal basking temp during the day should stay around 80.
Don’t let the spot where the heat emitter was go to waste. It’s a perfect spot for a plant light like this one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BRKG7X1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 What is your uvb - I believe I see a linear fixture but is it a T5 or T8? The info should be written on the end of the bulb. Having the correct uvb source and having it at the correct distance is essential.
I also thought about a backdrop too but haven’t figured out how I want to do that was was going to look at what others have done with their enclosures first. The options are endless! There are commercial backdrops, but I’m not up on how they work attaching to screen. Many use shower curtains, primarily to prevent the water from misting to spray on walls and such. Some make faux backdrops. Some leave it all clear and attach clear acrylic/pvc panels to make a hybrid style. Myself - I had made faux background panels which were nice but after a bit I realized they were so dark. Now I’m using a light blue cloudy sky shower curtain on the outside and the screen hides the cloud details. But, it’s light and that’s what my goal was.

I’ve been looking into getting a chameleon for years and off and on reading about everything I need to do, and then I came up on this great rehoming deal and jumped on it. Excellent! Everything in its proper time. I just want to make sure I’m doing everything right. One day I do want one of those dragon strand enclosures that I see in the Neptune videos.

I appreciate everyone’s help! We enjoy helping and spreading success in keeping our amazing chameleons healthy and happy. Don’t be afraid to ask any questions you may have.

 

[Throwingstones]

Thank you so much!
The enclosure is 24”x22”x ~48”. It was way bigger than I expected it to be I was thinking for the night time heat to not go below 65 at the basking spot. It gets colder than that in the house. My uvb is a t5. I read that they should be replaced about every 6months? So I would replace in about October

 

[MissSkittles]

Thank you so much!
The enclosure is 24”x22”x ~48”. It was way bigger than I expected it to be I was thinking for the night time heat to not go below 65 at the basking spot. It gets colder than that in the house. My uvb is a t5. I read that they should be replaced about every 6months? So I would replace in about October

Did you happen to notice the brand and strength of your uvb bulb? The standard is either a 5.0 or 6% in a T5 and then you’d want a distance of 8-9” between light and basking area. If the bulb is a 10.0 or 12%, the distance would be increased to 10-11”. ReptiSun is said to need to be replaced every six months and Arcadia is every year. Some have said that ReptiSun has improved and is now also good for a year but I can’t confirm nor deny. I just use Arcadia.

 

[Throwingstones]

Did you happen to notice the brand and strength of your uvb bulb? The standard is either a 5.0 or 6% in a T5 and then you’d want a distance of 8-9” between light and basking area. If the bulb is a 10.0 or 12%, the distance would be increased to 10-11”. ReptiSun is said to need to be replaced every six months and Arcadia is every year. Some have said that ReptiSun has improved and is now also good for a year but I can’t confirm nor deny. I just use Arcadia.

I didn’t notice a brand on there. Should I just replace it anyway?

 

[MissSkittles]

I didn’t notice a brand on there. Should I just replace it anyway?

If you have access to a solarmeter 6.5 you could check the output. If you know for sure the age of the bulb, just change it in October as planned.

 

[Throwingstones]

If you have access to a solarmeter 6.5 you could check the output. If you know for sure the age of the bulb, just change it in October as planned.

Some more questions. So whenever her little food cup has some water in it from the misters, she tries to drink it. Right now the misters are set up 2min before and after lights, then 1 min in the afternoon. I also have a dripper going. So I bought a fogger and this is the first night using it. Usually she sleeps in the same spot every night and I directed the fogger towards that area but there would’ve been a leaf covering her up so it wouldn’t have hit her directly. Anyway, she changed her sleeping tonight a few inches above and so the fogger is directly hitting her and her nose is on the screen. Humidity is like 60% so far with as close as I could get the reader without waking her. Also I did end up buying a dragon strand hybrid that should come in a few weeks and that’ll help retain that humidity. The fogger for now I plan on just running very low setting all night. Thinking about a humidity controlled plug for the new cage.
Long winded, but is this okay? Will she be properly hydrated without risk of URI? I also have a sheet I Velcro to the front for privacy and tv light blockage every night.