New owner of chameleon

[Sir Francis 222]

Hello guys , I just bought my chameleon just yesterday and wanted to know if I need things to improve on I really want my little guy to live I am not sure how old he is, I had a question about the lighting I have the 5.0 UVB light watt the one for his vitamin D and also the basking one is it important to have both on?
I am reading on his thermometer that it's at a comfortable temperature. So I should. Turn the other on when he begins to eat ?

 

[carol5208]

No, turn both on now. Most leave on 12/12 off but you can go sun up/sun down if you prefer. They need the uvb for d3 and the basking for heat for digestion. You say you have a comfortable temperature. What might that be? You should have varied temps in the cage from the top to the bottm and of course the hottest point being in the basking area.

 

[Sir Francis 222]

Right now it's at 21.9 degrees Celsius at the top right now I am watching him right now and he's a bit dark at the moment but he is near where the light is at so I think he may be enjoying it

 

[carol5208]

So around 71 degrees in what part of the cage? Basking? You never mentioned what kind of chameleon and how old. Basking temps will vary depending on the species and the age.

 

[Sir Francis 222]

It's at that the top and no that's not basking and he is a Vield chameleon and I don't know how old he his they didn't tell me at the pet store

 

[Sir Francis 222]

I just went right now to check on him and he is puffy! I am not sure why I have not done anything to him
But he all the way at the top near where the UVB light! Any Ideas why he may be like that?
I wanted to feed him but I am afraid he may hiss at me

 

[Loadout]

Hi Francis

They puff up when they are frightened/angry and sometimes when they bask to absorb more heat. Seeing as he is new it will take time for him to get used to you. You should post a picture of him so that someone can estimate his age, then we can make sure your basking temperature is correct, this is very important for his health. Which supplements did they give you at the store to dust his food with?

 

[teejayteej]

Print of the care sheet in the care resource section, your lighting and care are there. as for if he will hiss at you that is just part of being a cham owner. Like I posted on another thread Chams have personalities and they will let you know if they are in the mood to be handled. you need to feed him even if he hisses at you just put the food in the cage. (were you trying to hand feed?)
He may just need time to adjust if you just got him. He will hiss because he is out of his element.

 

[Sir Francis 222]

Hi Francis

They puff up when they are frightened/angry and sometimes when they bask to absorb more heat. Seeing as he is new it will take time for him to get used to you. You should post a picture of him so that someone can estimate his age, then we can make sure your basking temperature is correct, this is very important for his health. Which supplements did they give you at the store to dust his food with?

Okay! how do you post a picture up?
As for supplements I just bought crickets at the moment and I use the Flukers calcium with vitamin D3 phosphorus free also feed the crickets the Flukers orange cubes
As well I saw the thing about gut loading ?
So I put a piece of fresh carrot for the crickets is that okay?

 

[Sir Francis 222]

Print of the care sheet in the care resource section, your lighting and care are there. as for if he will hiss at you that is just part of being a cham owner. Like I posted on another thread Chams have personalities and they will let you know if they are in the mood to be handled. you need to feed him even if he hisses at you just put the food in the cage. (were you trying to hand feed?)
He may just need time to adjust if you just got him. He will hiss because he is out of his element.

Okay I will do that thank you!
And no I have not tried to Hand feed him yet
And a few minutes later he was back to his Normal size so I have him his crickets

 

[Loadout]

Okay! how do you post a picture up?
As for supplements I just bought crickets at the moment and I use the Flukers calcium with vitamin D3 phosphorus free also feed the crickets the Flukers orange cubes
As well I saw the thing about gut loading ?
So I put a piece of fresh carrot for the crickets is that okay?

To post a picture you hit 'post reply' and then underneath the text box there is a 'Manage Attachments' box. From here you can select a picture to upload

I'm afraid the store has given you the wrong information regarding supplementation. He needs a calcium powder without d3 for every feeding along with a calcium with d3 (like you already have) to be used only once every two weeks and a multivitamin powder to be used once every two weeks. I'm not familiar with the Flukers brand but this is a very common mistake that stores make. Overdosing on vitamin D3 can lead to metabolic bone disease and the early death of your cham. It's something that you should try to sort as soon as possible. Since they got this wrong it's likely they told you other things that are incorrect. I would suggest filling out this form https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/ and posting another picture of your setup so we can make suggestions to ensure your cham gets the best care he can.

Carrots are a great start for your feeders but variety is best, the nutrients you give your feeders will be passed on to your chameleon, meaning more variety will lead to a healthier and happier cham. Here's some information on gutloading https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html and a care sheet https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/

 

[Djturna4thakidz]

Excess D3 does not cause metabolic bone disease but it is harmful to your chameleon. As previously stated, you need calcium without D3. Most pet stores don't have it on hand but it can be ordered. If it needs to be delivered we have some other methods to help you get calcium in a pinch.

The orange cubes from flukers are not a good gutload. I would also add much more than just carrots to your gutload. As experienced keepers will tell you, gutload is extremely important. Sandrachameleon has some amazing blogs on recipes if you search for it.

You definitely need both the UVB and the basking light on during the day, total darkness at night. I would aim for 85 degrees F under your basking light. 21 degrees C is a good temp at the bottom of the cage but they need a temperature gradient.

Good luck! Let us know of any more questions you have, pictures always help

 

[kinyonga]

Excess vitamin D3 can lead to bone issues (MBD). D3 produced from exposure to UVB won't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB.

Appropriate temperatures, proper lighting, proper supplementing and gutloading of the insects are all important for your chameleon's health. If you check the archives you will find information I've posted about this before.

 

[Djturna4thakidz]

My bad, I was under the impression that lack of D3 caused MBD

 

[kinyonga]

D3 from supplements can build up in he system...so this is why it's usually only give a couple of times a month.

Vitamin A from prEformed sources also can build up in the system. PrOformed sources of vitamin A like beta carotene can't....but then it's not known if chameleon's can convert the prOformed vitamin A effectively.

 

[Sir Francis 222]

Hello guys , I just bought my chameleon just yesterday and wanted to know if I need things to improve on I really want my little guy to live I am not sure how old he is, I had a question about the lighting I have the 5.0 UVB light watt the one for his vitamin D and also the basking one is it important to have both on?
I am reading on his thermometer that it's at a comfortable temperature. So I should. Turn the other on when he begins to eat ?

To post a picture you hit 'post reply' and then underneath the text box there is a 'Manage Attachments' box. From here you can select a picture to upload

I'm afraid the store has given you the wrong information regarding supplementation. He needs a calcium powder without d3 for every feeding along with a calcium with d3 (like you already have) to be used only once every two weeks and a multivitamin powder to be used once every two weeks. I'm not familiar with the Flukers brand but this is a very common mistake that stores make. Overdosing on vitamin D3 can lead to metabolic bone disease and the early death of your cham. It's something that you should try to sort as soon as possible. Since they got this wrong it's likely they told you other things that are incorrect. I would suggest filling out this form https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/ and posting another picture of your setup so we can make suggestions to ensure your cham gets the best care he can.

Carrots are a great start for your feeders but variety is best, the nutrients you give your feeders will be passed on to your chameleon, meaning more variety will lead to a healthier and happier cham. Here's some information on gutloading https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/75-feeder-nutrition-gutloading.html and a care sheet https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/

Oh man where can I get the multivitamin ? Will they also have the supplement without d3? I bought him at pets Mart
So what do people mean when you have to powder the crickets every time you feed the chameleon, but now I am hearing every two weeks for one and one week for another ? I'm confused now
Here is his cage not sure why the picture turned sideway
Also as there feces what should I be looking for?
Cause I have not seen any and I am worried about that too

 

[Sir Francis 222]

Here Is my littl guy his name is Francis
I have not held him yet and he is vield chameleon I am not sure how old he is I hope this picture helps

 

[Sir Francis 222]

Excess D3 does not cause metabolic bone disease but it is harmful to your chameleon. As previously stated, you need calcium without D3. Most pet stores don't have it on hand but it can be ordered. If it needs to be delivered we have some other methods to help you get calcium in a pinch.

The orange cubes from flukers are not a good gutload. I would also add much more than just carrots to your gutload. As experienced keepers will tell you, gutload is extremely important. Sandrachameleon has some amazing blogs on recipes if you search for it.

You definitely need both the UVB and the basking light on during the day, total darkness at night. I would aim for 85 degrees F under your basking light. 21 degrees C is a good temp at the bottom of the cage but they need a temperature gradient.


Good luck! Let us know of any more questions you have, pictures always help

Thank you for your help I will search for that person . I have also posted pictures of its cage and him I am all ears for changes

 

[BKFritz]

I don't have a chameleon yet (it's in the works) but heres what I know and some advice I have gotten.

1. You need more sticks and foliage at the top. Chameleons are tree dwellers and will feel more safe and secure if they have places to hide. You need both vertical and horizontal "highways" so they can move up and down the cage.
   
2. Live plants will help hold in the humidity better than fake ones. Make sure you choose plants from the safe plant list and cover the soil with rocks so they don't accidentally ingest any of it.
   
3. You will probably want to remove the substrate at the bottom. It can hold bacteria and uneaten crickets. It's better to have nothing at the bottom of the cage.

 

[Juliaf3]

I don't have a chameleon yet (it's in the works) but heres what I know and some advice I have gotten.

1. You need more sticks and foliage at the top. Chameleons are tree dwellers and will feel more safe and secure if they have places to hide. You need both vertical and horizontal "highways" so they can move up and down the cage.
   
2. Live plants will help hold in the humidity better than fake ones. Make sure you choose plants from the safe plant list and cover the soil with rocks so they don't accidentally ingest any of it.
   
3. You will probably want to remove the substrate at the bottom. It can hold bacteria and uneaten crickets. It's better to have nothing at the bottom of the cage.

Kudos BK! Looks like you've listened and retained some great info