New owner, concerns for Koopa the Chameleon

[MoniqueC]

Yesterday my boyfriend and I bought a baby veiled chameleon from Petco. We bought the chameleon starter kit (all screen cage, zoo med day and night lamp, some vines, fake plants althought we plan on getting real plants to regulate humidity, substrate flooring) we use a spray bottle with repti safe water vitamins) bought small meal worms and crickets, which I plan on dusting and guy loading today. Now, here are my concerns:
1. The basking spot won't go above 80F an he spends all day up there and never at the bottom for food
2. He hasn't eaten, I tried to hand feed some meal worms but to no avail, Petco said it's normal not to eat or drink for 2-3 days due to stress, but I still worry
3. Hasn't drank (althought I just heard him lick but not a wet leaf?)
4. I've handled him once yesterday and once today(to TRY to feed) he seems to like it although I try to handle him as less as possible, and like when I take him into natural sun
5. Turns bright green when he crawls on me but dark green under light and sun

I know it takes time for them to adjust to new habitat but I want to know if I'm doin anything wrong before it becomes problematic. I want to be the best owner for him!

Ps, cage is about 3 ft tall, 2ft wide

 

[ChamDE86]

Yesterday my boyfriend and I bought a baby veiled chameleon from Petco. We bought the chameleon starter kit (all screen cage, zoo med day and night lamp, some vines, fake plants althought we plan on getting real plants to regulate humidity, substrate flooring) we use a spray bottle with repti safe water vitamins) bought small meal worms and crickets, which I plan on dusting and guy loading today. Now, here are my concerns:
1. The basking spot won't go above 80F an he spends all day up there and never at the bottom for food
2. He hasn't eaten, I tried to hand feed some meal worms but to no avail, Petco said it's normal not to eat or drink for 2-3 days due to stress, but I still worry
3. Hasn't drank (althought I just heard him lick but not a wet leaf?)
4. I've handled him once yesterday and once today(to TRY to feed) he seems to like it although I try to handle him as less as possible, and like when I take him into natural sun
5. Turns bright green when he crawls on me but dark green under light and sun

I know it takes time for them to adjust to new habitat but I want to know if I'm doin anything wrong before it becomes problematic. I want to be the best owner for him!

Ps, cage is about 3 ft tall, 2ft wide

Hello Monique,

Please fill this out and be as descriptive as possible. It will give us a better understanding of what is going on with your chameleon. To answer some of your questions, they can go without food for a couple of weeks. I would focus more on the hydration part. What type of bulb are you using that you are unable to get it passed 80? Also, mealworms should be fed as a treat as they are high in fat and chitin. Lastly, chameleons will turn dark under the light in order to better absorb heat, so no worries there.

https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/

 

[kplatvoet]

Welcome
I see you have a "day/night light" - no light at night - Here's the veiled care sheet- It's likely Petco gave you some information that is totally wrong-
(like a light at night)
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/

If he's small you can put your feeding cup up closer where he can see it - I used a little cup with a velcro button to hang it off a the side of the cage higher up when my guy was little and had a big cage. I had a couple of them so he could find his food. Your not going to want to use any substrate -
You also might want to try a dripper - just poke a small hole in a plastic bottle - you can put something in the cage to catch the drips but make sure he can't fall in and let the water drip on a leaf slowly enough so that it drips for a while after spraying.
janb has a great blog entry for newbies -

 

[kwengkynator]

Yesterday my boyfriend and I bought a baby veiled chameleon from Petco. We bought the chameleon starter kit (all screen cage, zoo med day and night lamp, some vines, fake plants althought we plan on getting real plants to regulate humidity, substrate flooring) we use a spray bottle with repti safe water vitamins) bought small meal worms and crickets, which I plan on dusting and guy loading today. Now, here are my concerns:
1. The basking spot won't go above 80F an he spends all day up there and never at the bottom for food
2. He hasn't eaten, I tried to hand feed some meal worms but to no avail, Petco said it's normal not to eat or drink for 2-3 days due to stress, but I still worry
3. Hasn't drank (althought I just heard him lick but not a wet leaf?)
4. I've handled him once yesterday and once today(to TRY to feed) he seems to like it although I try to handle him as less as possible, and like when I take him into natural sun
5. Turns bright green when he crawls on me but dark green under light and sun

I know it takes time for them to adjust to new habitat but I want to know if I'm doin anything wrong before it becomes problematic. I want to be the best owner for him!

Ps, cage is about 3 ft tall, 2ft wide

Welcome to the forums! Seems like you are very fond of your new pet. I would like to direct your attention to the caresheet. https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/chameleons/

That should give you a good basic knowledge of chameleon care. I'm also gonna point out a few things here and there. That seems like a big cage for a baby veiled cham. Might encounter a few issues locating food. About the lighting what type of bulb and wattage is in use? If the temperature doesn't dive lower than high 50's I wont recommend a night light. I would also recommend not using a substrate. It's extra stuff to clean and the change of ingestion (causing impaction leading to death) is low, but with the presence of substrate increases the chances. Highly recommend going without. Also about the dust supplement you use check if it has D3 vitamins in it. If it does dont use it daily. That is supposed to be only used 1 or 2 times a month. Look for dusting supplements without D3. High amounts of D3 can result to many illnesses. Try looking for a multivitamin supplement for your cham also. The natural sun is very beneficial to your new cham but I would recommend not moving him for at least a week. Let him familiarize himself with the new environment.

Hand feeding can be a great tool to get your cham to bond with you just make sure youre not intruding into his space. Springboard from the caresheets learn what you can and if you have any questions feel free to ask.

 

[MoniqueC]

Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? Baby, 3 or 4 weeks? Veiled , I THINKS it's a male
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? I've had him since yesterday, so once yesterday and once today, I will avoid handling unless needed as I've read they're not to be handled much, I don't want to stress him!
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? Gut loading with store bought pin head cricket food but tomorrow I will be making my own! I want the best for Koopa (I like to know what I'll be putting in his tummy. 7 dusted crickets and worms, I think he's eaten a couple (or they might be hiding, but that still worries me
Supplements - I use repti calciu without d3 to dust the crickets and worms, I also have calcium with d3 which I have not used yet and repti vitamins which I have not used yet
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? Spray bottle 3 to 4 times a day, I saw him drink for the first time after I got the second bulb replaced! Yay!
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? Not as far as I know, haven't spotted any fecal matter yet
History - Bought from Petco, was in a glass tank (not sure of that's relevant)

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Describe your cage all screen cage about 3ft tall and 2ft wide
Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? Zoo med day/night, use both during the day and none at night. It's on a time to be on from 11 am to 11pm
Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Fixed it! The second bulb was out, bought a new one. LOL basking is 85-90 floor about 70-75
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? I don't know, I will buy the hydrometer as soon as I can, using a spray bottle with repti safe water vitamins
Plants - Are you using live plants? Umbrella plant and focus bought today
Placement - Where is your cage located? On a night stand in my room, there is an air vent but not close, the cage isn't close to the ceiling, not high traffic.
Location - Napa, California (Bay Area)
Current Problem - feeding

 

[MoniqueC]

Thank you! Use calicium without d3 but I also have with d3 that I was gonna use next week. I want to hand feed him.. I just have to psyc myself up and be able to touch the bugs, they make me a little squeamish, I know it's something I have to get used to though! I just don't know how to get myself past the fact that I'll be touching live bugs

 

[kwengkynator]

Thank you! Use calicium without d3 but I also have with d3 that I was gonna use next week. I want to hand feed him.. I just have to psyc myself up and be able to touch the bugs, they make me a little squeamish, I know it's something I have to get used to though! I just don't know how to get myself past the fact that I'll be touching live bugs

Thats good to know. I have friends that got their supplements from petco and the associates recommend a the one with D3 for everyday feeding. I'd stick with pinhead crickets for now the mealworms might have a bit too much chitin in them for a young cham. Chitin is the hard exoskeleton of the worm. That might cause some impaction and might lead to death. His digestive system is still adjusting at this early stage to his diet. When he gets older there should be no issues as long as he is healthy. I would recommend calciworms/reptiworms small ones as another feeder variety. They can be bought here:

http://www.reptiworms.com/
http://www.lindasgonebuggie.com/page/397479218
dubiaroaches.com

They have high amount of calcium and a great choice for young chams. Just make sure to put them in a dish bowl floating on warm water first to liven them up a bit. Dont buy anywhere that sells them for more than 6/7 dollars for a 100 pieces. THATS TOO MUCH! Then again if you can find somewhere close by so you wont have to pay shipping its cool. Linda also offers a variety of feeders and crickets that you can buy. I recommend buying them in bulk. It's WAY cheaper that way. You can also breed them and be self sufficient. Crickets are great staple at the beginning. Although once your cham is maturing enough switch to Dubia roaches. Bare with me here, I can just see your face fill up with fear and disgust as I said roaches

They are not bad, they dont smell and require less maintenance compared to crickets and they dont have any noise. Also a better source of nutrients. WAY easy to breed too!

You will get over the fear about insects soon. Its a process almost every cham owner was afraid to touch one type of insect at one point but after owning these wonderful animals its no biggie :3


DISREGARD[/B]Also did you say a glass cage? That might be an issue. Glass cages arent usually recommended unless you have issues with humidity. If you can return it for your money back I would go for it. If not, its a big cage as long as you can offer plenty of climbing space and regulate humidity you should be good.

Also can you send pics of the enclosure and your cham.

 

[MoniqueC]

Thats good to know. I have friends that got their supplements from petco and the associates recommend a the one with D3 for everyday feeding. I'd stick with pinhead crickets for now the mealworms might have a bit too much chitin in them for a young cham. Chitin is the hard exoskeleton of the worm. That might cause some impaction and might lead to death. His digestive system is still adjusting at this early stage to his diet. When he gets older there should be no issues as long as he is healthy. I would recommend calciworms/reptiworms small ones as another feeder variety. They can be bought here:

http://www.reptiworms.com/
http://www.lindasgonebuggie.com/page/397479218
dubiaroaches.com

They have high amount of calcium and a great choice for young chams. Just make sure to put them in a dish bowl floating on warm water first to liven them up a bit. Dont buy anywhere that sells them for more than 6/7 dollars for a 100 pieces. THATS TOO MUCH! Then again if you can find somewhere close by so you wont have to pay shipping its cool. Linda also offers a variety of feeders and crickets that you can buy. I recommend buying them in bulk. It's WAY cheaper that way. You can also breed them and be self sufficient. Crickets are great staple at the beginning. Although once your cham is maturing enough switch to Dubia roaches. Bare with me here, I can just see your face fill up with fear and disgust as I said roaches

They are not bad, they dont smell and require less maintenance compared to crickets and they dont have any noise. Also a better source of nutrients. WAY easy to breed too!

You will get over the fear about insects soon. Its a process almost every cham owner was afraid to touch one type of insect at one point but after owning these wonderful animals its no biggie :3


DISREGARD[/B]Also did you say a glass cage? That might be an issue. Glass cages arent usually recommended unless you have issues with humidity. If you can return it for your money back I would go for it. If not, its a big cage as long as you can offer plenty of climbing space and regulate humidity you should be good.

Also can you send pics of the enclosure and your cham.

As requested:

 

[zlew]

Your cham looks cute and healthy to me! Only a few changes more that I would suggest based on the pics.

-Add some horizontal branches for basking spots. You don't want him to only have one place where he can bask.

-Get some foliage in the back and the middle, just so to move from side to side he doesn't have to feel like he's exposing himself

-Don't need the calcium spray if you have the right powdered supplements, which work better for me. You also don't need the water conditioner. Any water you can drink should be fine for your cham. But it's no harm done if you feel more comfortable using it.

Other than that, I'd say you're doing much better than I did when I had my first chameleon!

P.S. Unless he looks dehydrated (eye turrets sunken into his head, looking little grayish and down in the dumps) don't worry about not seeing him drink. A lot of chams feel self conscious about their eating and drinking habits

 

[MeruJack]

You said, "I THINK it's a male." It is very easy to tell if it is a male. Look on the back of it's back feet. It you see a little somewhat triangular flap/growth on the back of its back feet then it is a boy. If the back of the feet are smooth then it's a female.

Also, don't forget to put a lightweight feeding dish or two higher up where your chameleon likes to hang out.

Rarely do any of my chams venture near the bottom of the cage to eat.

I think you're doing GREAT for a newbie.

 

[kwengkynator]

You have a great set-up and seems to be well invested into you cham. About the dusting/spraying issue they both have ups and down. Dusting is traditional and proven but spraying is really convenient, although they are newer items in the market. I use both personally when I dont have time I just toss the worms and roaches in my feeding bin and spray them. If I can spare a few mins I dust them. Both seems does the job.

You are very well off and as long as you follow the care sheets you should be very well off. Next project for you would be breeding feeders and taming procedures. Both will be tackled in the forums. GOOD LUCK! If you have any questions the forums will be here