New Chameleon

Kleynie

Member
Hi all,
I joined the forums this morning to ask a question about my new 3 month old Nosy Be panther chameleon. His name is Zeus I got him on Tuesday this week from a trusted local breeder (specifically Global Geckos in Windlesham), and he has seemed to settle in really well overall, he seems happy in his vivarium and loves to explore, he also seems to enjoy being handled for short periods of time, which was a surprise to me. Anyway, to get to the point of this post, since yesterday, he hasn't eaten his locusts, and I'm not sure why. I have been feeding him 8-10 small/medium locusts a day (he is very fussy and won't eat the meal worms I have tried to feed him), dusting only some of them in Calcium, and he will be getting some multivitamins on them this weekend too. He seemed really happy to eat until yesterday morning, but now he is reluctant to eat them. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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kinyonga

Chameleon Enthusiast
Welcome to the forum and the world of chameleons!
Please answer the questions in this thread so we can help you better.
 

Trailgem

Avid Member
I don’t have the link, but this is what we need...

Chameleon Info:

◦ Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?

◦ Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

◦ Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

◦ Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?

◦ Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?



◦ Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?



◦ History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.



Cage Info:

◦ Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?

◦ Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?

◦ Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?





◦ Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?

◦ Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?

◦ Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?

◦ Location - Where are you geographically located?



Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
 

Kleynie

Member
Chameleon Info:

◦ Your Chameleon - 3 month old male Nosy Be panther chameleon

◦ Handling - Every other day, however this is being stepped down as I appreciate that this might be too often.

◦ Feeding - 8-10 locusts a day, have tried meal worms, he doesn't seem to like them. Crickets will come into the food mix in the next couple of days.

◦ Supplements - Prorep calcium powder every 3rd locust and multivitamins once a week.

◦ Watering - Currently using a dripper, which he uses, I have seen him drink from it. I also mist twice a day.

◦ Fecal Description - No signs of parasites, however I have never had a chameleon so I'm not entirely sure what it should look like.

◦ History - Born early June, raised in a screen vivarium.


Cage Info:

◦ Cage Type - Wooden, custom made, with a glass front and ventilation at the front, back and top.

◦ Lighting - 100W ceramic heater connected to a microclimate B1 set at 26°C. Also a 10% UVB lamp.

◦ Temperature - Central, about 26°C, basking around 30°C, not sure about the bottom of the Viv.

◦ Humidity - Around 50-70%

◦ Plants - Live plants, all were cleaned before planting, the vivarium is also bioactive.

◦ Placement - Not near any additional heating or cooling, placed on the floor in a shady spot.

◦ Location - South West London



Current Problem - He hasn't eaten since yesterday morning, but seems otherwise happy and healthy.
 

CamoChameleonsHuman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Some more horizontal branches for him would greatly increase his attitude about being in a viv instead of Madagascar. Putting some branches closer to basking zone as well. Are you free ranging the feeders or cup feeding?
 

Kleynie

Member
Some more horizontal branches for him would greatly increase his attitude about being in a viv instead of Madagascar. Putting some branches closer to basking zone as well. Are you free ranging the feeders or cup feeding?
I have some more plants coming for the top of the vivarium, to allow him to hide up there more comfortably, I am feeding him with locusts free in the tank, and I'm also hand feeding him.
 

CamoChameleonsHuman

Chameleon Enthusiast
I have some more plants coming for the top of the vivarium, to allow him to hide up there more comfortably, I am feeding him with locusts free in the tank, and I'm also hand feeding him.
Most chameleons like the hunt so keep trying the free ranging but also try a run cup. Doubtful you'll get a chameleon that young to hand feed for at least a couple more months unless you lucked out with a highly social laid back chameleon.
 

Kleynie

Member
Most chameleons like the hunt so keep trying the free ranging but also try a run cup. Doubtful you'll get a chameleon that young to hand feed for at least a couple more months unless you lucked out with a highly social laid back chameleon.
Surprisingly, he is actually very happy to hand feed, although I don't hand feed all the time, I do maybe once a day hand feeding. I think that's a healthy amount, although I'm obviously open to try the run cup method.
Thanks for the help
 

kinyonga

Chameleon Enthusiast
Thanks @Trailgem ...I forgot the link.

@Kleynie I recommend dusting at almost every feeding with a phos free calcium powder lightly and twice a month with a phos free calcium/D3 powder lightly and twice a month lightly with a vitamin powder with a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. This leaves it up to you to decide when/if your chameleon needs some prEformed vitamin A. i do it this way because prEformed vitamin A and D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues. This gives the a safe source of vitamin A and and some D3 but leaves them to produce the rest of the D3 from their exposure to the UVB light and prEformed A from what you provide them.

I have for years used the long linear ReptiSun 5.0 light for UVB.

As for the eating...I'm not worried about it if it's only one day...especially since you're free ranging the insects...but if it continues post again so we know.
 
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