When a chameleon has MBD it's important not only to give her liquid calcium to help the MBD but to provide her with proper supplements, appropriate basking temperatures, feed/gutload the insects properly and provide proper hydration so that it won't come back again.
I recommend that the insects be dusted just before feeding them to the chameleon with a phosphorus-free calcium powder at almost every feeding to help balance the poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus found in most feeder insects.
I recommend that you dust the insects twice a month with a phosphorus-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon is getting some D3 without over doing it and leaving it to produce the rest of the D3 from it's exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system leading to health issues but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB when it wants to.
I recommend dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A will not build up in the system like prEformed sources will. This means though that you will have to decide when/if the chameleon needs any prEformed vitamin A.
For crickets, roaches, superworms, locusts you can feed/gutload them with dandelion greens, kale, collards, endive, escarole, squash, zucchini, sweet potato sweet red pepper, carrots and a bit of apple, pear, berries, melon, etc.
For a veiled females I would have the basking temperature in the low to mid 80's F. Appropriate temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part in nutrient absorption.
Concerning egg production...veiled females can produce eggs once they're mature without having mated...so we advise providing a place in her cage where she can lay eggs at all times after she is mature. It should be an opaque container at least 12" deep x 12" x 8" filled with washed play sand that is just moist enough to hold a tunnel.
Good luck with her!
I recommend that the insects be dusted just before feeding them to the chameleon with a phosphorus-free calcium powder at almost every feeding to help balance the poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus found in most feeder insects.
I recommend that you dust the insects twice a month with a phosphorus-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon is getting some D3 without over doing it and leaving it to produce the rest of the D3 from it's exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system leading to health issues but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB when it wants to.
I recommend dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A will not build up in the system like prEformed sources will. This means though that you will have to decide when/if the chameleon needs any prEformed vitamin A.
For crickets, roaches, superworms, locusts you can feed/gutload them with dandelion greens, kale, collards, endive, escarole, squash, zucchini, sweet potato sweet red pepper, carrots and a bit of apple, pear, berries, melon, etc.
For a veiled females I would have the basking temperature in the low to mid 80's F. Appropriate temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part in nutrient absorption.
Concerning egg production...veiled females can produce eggs once they're mature without having mated...so we advise providing a place in her cage where she can lay eggs at all times after she is mature. It should be an opaque container at least 12" deep x 12" x 8" filled with washed play sand that is just moist enough to hold a tunnel.
Good luck with her!
