New chameleon owner

Ckk1109

New Member
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - veiled, I’m unsure of her age.They told me when I bought her she was a baby I’ve had her since February.

  • Handling - probably twice a week, if that but she’s always demanding to come out and she jumps onto my hands when I feed her

  • Feeding daily; - 4-6 crickets daily. 4-6 Mealworms. Some special treat from weekly list.
  • Every other day. (Veggie mix) Fresh spinach, baby book Choy, collard greens, baby kale, mizuna,

  • Weekly; 2 hornworms a week, 2 superworms a week, flightless fruit flies, 1-2calciworms, 1-2 waxworms.

  • I feed her 2-3 crickets in the morning (will just let them free or i hand feed her. Then she gets 2-3 meal worms and veggie mix. On occasion she gets carrots, mango or other items to try.

Crickets eat, spinach, orange cube diet, blue cube diet, flukers high calcium cricket diet.

  • Supplements -photo enclosed. Sprinkled on crickets and worms. Weekly

  • Watering - i have a exo terra monsoon that runs from constantly. Pics enclosed with spray times. she also has a flukers little dripper and big dripper and will be getting a custom waterfall in her habitat.

  • Fecal Description - she is pretty consistent. dark brown poop with occasional white streaks.

  • Parasites are negative vet is very careful.
  • History - none that we’ve found.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - pics enclosed mesh top cage. Front opening double doors.

  • Lighting - pics enclosed. She has a timer for 10 hour changes. Uva. UVB then switches to red and blue

  • Temperature - pics posted never below 60°f

  • Humidity - pics enclosed.

  • Plants - She has a mix of plastic plans as well as the black rope thing, she also has several live plants including an orchid. Baby’s tears, bamboo, random small plants( unknown types but checked for pet safe)

  • Placement - she is currently in the living room, no vents but there’s a window. (Window is filmed to keep heat in and rays out) She likes to look out. She sits on a end table.
  • Location - i live in Des Moines Iowa.

Current Problem -
I wouldn’t say it’s a problem it’s more of a concern she’s extremely friendly. She puts her tail wrap surround a branch and begs to come out I took a video and I hope it’ll let me post it but if not I took a few photos and you can see where she’s got her hands on the cage like she’s trying to come out if I come over to her she will jump onto my arm and crawl all over me and just walk around with me, then she gets mad when I put her back.

I am new to chameleons I’m not familiar with them and I bought this one in February and I’m still learning so here’s hoping you guys have some help and advice.

 

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CamoChameleonsHuman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Ok so a few things.
1) she probably wants out because she's cramped in her enclosure. Recommended minimum size for a female veiled is 2x2x4. Also should be screened for maximum ventilation.
2) since you got a girl get ready for a lay bin. Females will lay infertile eggs like chickens. 12x12 with moist play sand at bottom of enclosure should be available to her at all times.
3)you're misting to frequently and for too long. Every hour for 4minutes if I'm correct? Should only have to mist 2-4 times a day. For a minimum of 2-5 minutes
4)your UVB lighting should be a T5HO linear UVB hood with a 10.0 or 12%bulb.
5)ditch the red and blue bulbs. You just need a basking light usually 50w or 60w and the light I stated above. 12hrs on 12hrs off. I like to use timers for this.
6)no waterfalls! They harbor bacteria and dead feeders.
7) stay away from mealworms hard for our chams to digest.
 

Lennoncham

Chameleon Enthusiast
As @CamoChameleonsHuman said.

Also I only see a multivitamin and a calcium with d3 in those pictures. You should be using a calcium without d3 every feeding. A calcium with d3 twice a month and a multivitamin twice a month.


That Exo Terra multivitamin has d3 in it. So you will either want a different one without d3 or don’t use the calcium with d3 and just the multi twice a month. You don’t want a d3 overdose.
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
So thank you for filling out the form. I agree with the above. While I do have a friendly Veiled this is also very rare in this species. Typically it is due to a cage issue so they are trying to get out to get somewhere better. I would follow the advice given. Make the cage upgrade asap along with the lighting. Provide real plants like pothos and tons of horizontal vines. Once her home is a safe feeling environment you will discover how her personality really is. She may stay friendly or she may prefer to be in her cage and be a chameleon. Use the forum search function as it it full of fabulous info.
 

Ckk1109

New Member
Ok so a few things.
1) she probably wants out because she's cramped in her enclosure. Recommended minimum size for a female veiled is 2x2x4. Also should be screened for maximum ventilation.
2) since you got a girl get ready for a lay bin. Females will lay infertile eggs like chickens. 12x12 with moist play sand at bottom of enclosure should be available to her at all times.
3)you're misting to frequently and for too long. Every hour for 4minutes if I'm correct? Should only have to mist 2-4 times a day. For a minimum of 2-5 minutes
4)your UVB lighting should be a T5HO linear UVB hood with a 10.0 or 12%bulb.
5)ditch the red and blue bulbs. You just need a basking light usually 50w or 60w and the light I stated above. 12hrs on 12hrs off. I like to use timers for this.
6)no waterfalls! They harbor bacteria and dead feeders.
7) stay away from mealworms hard for our chams to digest.


1. As stated it is screened. The tank is 18"x18" on the bottom and 24" tall

2. Lay bin is set up separately which is what the vet suggested.

3. It mists 1min every 4 hours

4. The uvb bulb is what’s on it.

5. Why no red or blue when it’s suggested to do so. ???

6 the waterfall can’t harbor anything it’s separate from her.

7. Mealworms ??
 

Ckk1109

New Member
As @CamoChameleonsHuman said.

Also I only see a multivitamin and a calcium with d3 in those pictures. You should be using a calcium without d3 every feeding. A calcium with d3 twice a month and a multivitamin twice a month.


That Exo Terra multivitamin has d3 in it. So you will either want a different one without d3 or don’t use the calcium with d3 and just the multi twice a month. You don’t want a d3 overdose.


As @CamoChameleonsHuman said.

Also I only see a multivitamin and a calcium with d3 in those pictures. You should be using a calcium without d3 every feeding. A calcium with d3 twice a month and a multivitamin twice a month.


That Exo Terra multivitamin has d3 in it. So you will either want a different one without d3 or don’t use the calcium with d3 and just the multi twice a month. You don’t want a d3 overdose.


Will use the multi vitamin. But sticking with vets orders.
 

Ckk1109

New Member
So thank you for filling out the form. I agree with the above. While I do have a friendly Veiled this is also very rare in this species. Typically it is due to a cage issue so they are trying to get out to get somewhere better. I would follow the advice given. Make the cage upgrade asap along with the lighting. Provide real plants like pothos and tons of horizontal vines. Once her home is a safe feeling environment you will discover how her personality really is. She may stay friendly or she may prefer to be in her cage and be a chameleon. Use the forum search function as it it full of fabulous info.

Cage has pothos several of them.
 

CamoChameleonsHuman

Chameleon Enthusiast
1. As stated it is screened. The tank is 18"x18" on the bottom and 24" tall

2. Lay bin is set up separately which is what the vet suggested.

3. It mists 1min every 4 hours

4. The uvb bulb is what’s on it.

5. Why no red or blue when it’s suggested to do so. ???

6 the waterfall can’t harbor anything it’s separate from her.

7. Mealworms ??
1) The pictures show an exoterra glass
2)better to have it in at all times. You never know when she might want to lay.
3)try 2min every 4hrs
4)not all uvb bulbs are created equal. A coil bulb is worthless as far as usable UVB output is concerned. Which is why we all use T5HO hoods that are tested with solarmeters to be good.
5)because they're not needed. Just a white basking light and linear UVB light is all that is required.
6) everything harbors bacteria. Stagnant water that isn't changed or cleaned religiously can lead to URI
7) mealwoems aren't very nutritious and are high in chiatin which is basicly like your finger nails.
 

Graves923

Chameleon Enthusiast
I dont understand how someone can come here, ask for advice, and then respond with "I'll just stick to my vets orders" with two different accounts.... Clearly this vet doesn't know about chameleon husbandry.

@Ckk1109 , you need to suck up your pride and stop being so ignorant... All the people that have tried to offer advice, on both threads, have many years of successful chameleon care between them. I would, and do, trust some of the members here with the husbandry information more than a vet who has probably never owned a chameleon.

All the information that has been spoon fed to you in both threads is to help you prevent ever having to go to a vet for problems that can be avoided.

Oh, you mentioned you have an 8 foot tall enclosure on the other thread... Nobody here is going to take you seriously with blatant lies like that....

Time to grow up and take responsibility for that chameleons health.
 

Lunatuck

Established Member
Just for clarification, a “screen” cage is screen all around. Not just the top. The stagnant air causes respiratory issues in glass cages.

Respiratory issues are very common and deadly in Chams.

Also, familiarize yourself with D3 overdoses. You want to ensure he’s not getting too much. I use D3 2x a month.
 

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Honestly this thread just makes me sad. It was brought to my attention that this was the same person from the other thread prior to Zilla figuring it out. We had hoped that the OP would respond differently this time and be open to learning from us. So we both stayed quiet and offered advice. However seeing the OP's responses it is clear that they do not want to learn from us. It is situations like this that make us all more guarded in helping other people that come here. Because it is just one more situation where our time and energy is wasted on a thread.

Considering a lot of vets give Chameleon advice without having a real knowledge of them it makes this situation even more scary. We see it all the time. With Chams that are on deaths door and the keeper was given entirely wrong advice from a vet or a pet store. By the time people find the forum more often then not the cham is too far gone and passes due to the improper husbandry advice.

I think the only thing to do is unwatch the thread and walk away from trying to be of assistance to this person. They will understand our warnings when the Chameleon becomes ill and the Vet is unable to save it. Incredibly sad.
 

Lunatuck

Established Member
Ckk, have you been anticipating needing a new cage? There seem to be two schools of thought, and depending on who helped you choose your setup, you could go one of two ways. Some people suggest starting with an 18x18x36 cage for Baby/Juvenile. But then switch to a 24x24x48 cage when they outgrow the smaller cage. How fast your chameleon grows determines when you need the new cage. I'm a new keeper, and Cosmo is surprising me with his growth rate. He'll be getting a larger cage sooner rather then later.

If you've anticipated that, I'd definitely look into a screen cage. Your current cage appears very cramped.

You've done alot of things right, but there are some things you've done wrong. I think you know that and that's why you are here.
 

Lennoncham

Chameleon Enthusiast
Just for clarification, a “screen” cage is screen all around. Not just the top. The stagnant air causes respiratory issues in glass cages.

Respiratory issues are very common and deadly in Chams.

Also, familiarize yourself with D3 overdoses. You want to ensure he’s not getting too much. I use D3 2x a month.

Not to mention that no plain calcium will almost definitely lead to egg binding.
 

Chameleomom

Chameleon Enthusiast
Your gut load sucks to be quite honest. Get Bug burger or Cricket Crack and start there. We can help you with further but you have to be willing to listen
 
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