Ok here's the break down, females need a temp all through out their life like that if juveniles so no higher basking than 85 degrees. They need a lay bin around about 6 months old inside their cage 24/7. I recommend trying calci-worms and also allowing them to pupate into soldier flies and allowing those to be recreational feeders. Phoenix worms, black soldier larvae, or calci-worms never need to be dusted as they are naturally amazingly high in calcium and are great for growing babies. Stick insects are good for growing for your own colonies as their food sources, since almost all eat evergreen oak and bramble, are easy to find. Dubia roaches and other types of feeder roaches are amazingly easy to breed and almost all types are practically garbage disposals. Great for getting rid of scraps of veggies or fruit. Crickets are great for gutloading but make sure to get them from a safe breeder or else you could end up with some serious parasite ridden crickets. Silkworms and hornworms are amazingly healthy, silkworms are easier to breed, and both are great for getting a boost of hydration. There are also mantis, though they are an extreme amount of work for a feeder. Isopods, superworms. Probably some others I am forgetting. Most of the ones I have mentioned I raise so that's why it's easy to remember lol. Remember not to feed any of your feeder insects animal proteins. It has been proven with some feeders that when they are fed large amounts of animal protein regularly they build up to much uric acid and can pass it onto the chameleon in the form of gout. I would recommend finding a good exotic vet near you who you trust with your chameleon. Remember though, just because they have treated reptiles before doesn't mean they know beans about chameleons. I also recommend when the time comes and you have to worry about laying thinking about getting some liquid calcium from a vet. It's amazing how much calcium it can take from the body of a female to lay and create eggs. And a female who has no wild caught genes is susceptible to having more problems with mbd down the line even with proper supplementing, more than people realize. I have begun recommending giving about .1 cc or .2 a few days before and after laying. That's just a maintenance measurement and will make it much easier on her to recover. I honestly recommend a uvb light fixture from light your reptiles, ask Todd who is the owner of them, about which you should have. I am now hungry and have to go eat.
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