New Cham owner, just checking everything is okay.

Humble

Member
Hello all, tomorrow makes two weeks having my first cham. We got him from PetSmart, I believe he is between 4 and 5 months old.
I know that the cage size is incorrect, as we got the chameleon kit for him so we would be able to bring him home. I know it's recommended to have your set up ready before you bring them home, but alas. We did not..
I am mostly happy with everything aside from the size. I already had a number of plants perfect for an enclosure so being able to use them this way was exciting to me.
I changed the soil in all of them to jungle mix repi-breeze.
His stick for basking is right at 6 inches from his heat lamp. (I have to double check what he's go in there for that. I know it's one of the blue blubs that emits the soft white light.
We have the reptisun T5 H0 5.0 UVB 24" fixture, and it is 4 feet from the bottom of his enclosure. I see this is recommended for enclosure this size. (I don't quite understand UVB yet. would love help on that.... ) We just got the correct bulb for him yesterday.
ambient temps in house are usually 68-70.
I have a thermal heat gun as well as the probe thermometer and circular hydrometer that came with the kit. I know they tend to be kind of off, but I like it for a general idea. I also have a digital reader for temp and humidity. I move it around in the day. sometimes I keep it right by the window and I know if its high there, it's probably getting that way in his enclosure. I will close the blinds and or curtains and turn the air down one degree in the house and that does the trick.
I don't let it get any hotter that 90 at his basking spot. I will turn his heat bulb off for a while if it starts getting up there.
I check his temps a time or two throughout the day, especially around 12, as he is near a window. I keep the ceiling fan on during the day and that helps the humidity stay down. Between 35 and 55, depending on how it is outside/ inside
Lights turn on at 8am and off at 8pm
Fogger turns on at 1am until 7am
I hand mist for one minute right after his lights turn off, and for one minute, 30 minutes before his lights come on. ( Will get the mist king when we get his 2X2x4 enclosure in about 3 weeks. ) He is not a fan of the misting. he absolutely hates it.
When his lights turn off, I cover two sides of his enclosure with a clear shower curtain cut to size, and turn off the ceiling fan.
I take it off about 7:30am.
As far as I know. Temps get down to 68 late in the night. And the highest I can get the humidity is between 60% and 70%
Once I get the mist king I know it'll be able to get a bit higher in the late/early hours.
Oxylus (my cham) seems to wake up between 6-6:30AM. And he then moves to sit under his fogger. Once it cuts off, he slowly walks around some. Or goes to one of the sun beams coming through the window into his enclosure. Once I uncover him he either comes to life and is I assume hunting, or sits and watches me when I lay back down. I am thinking of keeping him covered until his lights come on.
He ate two Dubia roaches and is showing ZERO interest in them after. He eats crickets fine. This is what he ate at the pet store so I expect that.. He seems unsure of the horn worm but it also was on my hand. He will eat from a bowl that I am holding, but still isn't crazy about my hand. I am still trying out bugs.
I gut load with sweet potato, mango and bell pepper at the moment.
In his first week he was only eating up to 7 crickets a day.. but the last week he's been eating up to 19.
I also have some Wax worms. I give him two or three every few days.
He enjoys to free rang his food more than the bowl. He seems to loose interest in the bowl after about 3-5 bugs and then will literally go eat dirt until I shake the bowl and stir up the crickets. Or let one loose to catch his eye.. I am getting some flat rocks to cover the dirt.. I know I got dirt safe for him.. But it's stressing me out seeing him eating this dirt..
I've watches several videos and read articles on how to dust. And I feel like I'm doing everything accordingly.
Repti Calcium without D3 every feeding except the 1st and 15th, I use Reptivite with D3
(once again help understanding UVB would be awesome.. I feel like I have a decent grasp on everything else )
update as I type.. He seems to still be going for his dirt even after eating at least 19 crickets today. It is 4:05 pm. He still has one cricket that I can see left. If its not gone soon Ill take it out... I just put a small glass jars upside down on top of the soil. But he's still going for it. I have no idea what do.. I gotta find rocks.. but whats making him to do it in the first place?!?!?!?
 

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Hello all, tomorrow makes two weeks having my first cham. We got him from PetSmart, I believe he is between 4 and 5 months old.
I know that the cage size is incorrect, as we got the chameleon kit for him so we would be able to bring him home. I know it's recommended to have your set up ready before you bring them home, but alas. We did not..
I am mostly happy with everything aside from the size. I already had a number of plants perfect for an enclosure so being able to use them this way was exciting to me.
I changed the soil in all of them to jungle mix repi-breeze.
His stick for basking is right at 6 inches from his heat lamp. (I have to double check what he's go in there for that. I know it's one of the blue blubs that emits the soft white light.
We have the reptisun T5 H0 5.0 UVB 24" fixture, and it is 4 feet from the bottom of his enclosure. I see this is recommended for enclosure this size. (I don't quite understand UVB yet. would love help on that.... ) We just got the correct bulb for him yesterday.
ambient temps in house are usually 68-70.
I have a thermal heat gun as well as the probe thermometer and circular hydrometer that came with the kit. I know they tend to be kind of off, but I like it for a general idea. I also have a digital reader for temp and humidity. I move it around in the day. sometimes I keep it right by the window and I know if its high there, it's probably getting that way in his enclosure. I will close the blinds and or curtains and turn the air down one degree in the house and that does the trick.
I don't let it get any hotter that 90 at his basking spot. I will turn his heat bulb off for a while if it starts getting up there.
I check his temps a time or two throughout the day, especially around 12, as he is near a window. I keep the ceiling fan on during the day and that helps the humidity stay down. Between 35 and 55, depending on how it is outside/ inside
Lights turn on at 8am and off at 8pm
Fogger turns on at 1am until 7am
I hand mist for one minute right after his lights turn off, and for one minute, 30 minutes before his lights come on. ( Will get the mist king when we get his 2X2x4 enclosure in about 3 weeks. ) He is not a fan of the misting. he absolutely hates it.
When his lights turn off, I cover two sides of his enclosure with a clear shower curtain cut to size, and turn off the ceiling fan.
I take it off about 7:30am.
As far as I know. Temps get down to 68 late in the night. And the highest I can get the humidity is between 60% and 70%
Once I get the mist king I know it'll be able to get a bit higher in the late/early hours.
Oxylus (my cham) seems to wake up between 6-6:30AM. And he then moves to sit under his fogger. Once it cuts off, he slowly walks around some. Or goes to one of the sun beams coming through the window into his enclosure. Once I uncover him he either comes to life and is I assume hunting, or sits and watches me when I lay back down. I am thinking of keeping him covered until his lights come on.
He ate two Dubia roaches and is showing ZERO interest in them after. He eats crickets fine. This is what he ate at the pet store so I expect that.. He seems unsure of the horn worm but it also was on my hand. He will eat from a bowl that I am holding, but still isn't crazy about my hand. I am still trying out bugs.
I gut load with sweet potato, mango and bell pepper at the moment.
In his first week he was only eating up to 7 crickets a day.. but the last week he's been eating up to 19.
I also have some Wax worms. I give him two or three every few days.
He enjoys to free rang his food more than the bowl. He seems to loose interest in the bowl after about 3-5 bugs and then will literally go eat dirt until I shake the bowl and stir up the crickets. Or let one loose to catch his eye.. I am getting some flat rocks to cover the dirt.. I know I got dirt safe for him.. But it's stressing me out seeing him eating this dirt..
I've watches several videos and read articles on how to dust. And I feel like I'm doing everything accordingly.
Repti Calcium without D3 every feeding except the 1st and 15th, I use Reptivite with D3
(once again help understanding UVB would be awesome.. I feel like I have a decent grasp on everything else )
update as I type.. He seems to still be going for his dirt even after eating at least 19 crickets today. It is 4:05 pm. He still has one cricket that I can see left. If its not gone soon Ill take it out... I just put a small glass jars upside down on top of the soil. But he's still going for it. I have no idea what do.. I gotta find rocks.. but whats making him to do it in the first place?!?!?!?
So, everything you are doing is correct from the info you gave! There is a lot of help that will be here Monday I assume, since there are people like @Beman and @MissSkittles and @kinyonga that will help tons more than I can. I am not sure why you are covering the cage... Is it for humidity? If so, the mister will help, but you may want to look into a hybrid vivarium depending on the humidity of the area you are in. I would suggest Dragonstrand.

There is a lot of online help for questions about UVB and other questions along the way. For that, I suggest Neptune the Chameleon and Chameleon Academy. They both are very reputable. For the UVB, with my knowledge, you should be ok with it when the 2x 2x 4x cage gets there, but for before, I'd make sure the UVB levels are correct with it's location.

If you wanted to know what UVB does, then heres a tiny description, but you can skip it if that isn't what you are asking.
UVB basically helps your chameleon with it's calcium levels and with things like vitamin D3. This is why/so you don't need to dust with D3 more than twice with Veiled's and Panthers.

Your hiding spots are great though, I couldn't see him in the last picture for a solid minute, which is a great thing. HOWEVER, I would check the backs of his feet to check for tarsal spurs because pet stores are TERRIBLE at sexing chams correctly. Some females have started to have spurs too, so getting a good look at the coloration might help. You can post more pictures here for someone else to check. The main concern would be a laying basket if they sexed him incorrectly.


Hybrid enclosure: https://dragonstrand.com/product/tall-hybrid-chameleon-cage-system/
Neptune the Chameleon (youtube): https://www.youtube.com/@NeptunetheChameleon/videos
Neptune the Chameleon (website): https://neptunethechameleon.simplybook.me/v2/
Chameleon Academy (youtube): https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/
Chameleon Academy (basics): https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/
Chameleon Academy (Veiled's): https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/

Sorry if this is all stuff you knew/boring to read! I wanted to make sure you have a good amount of resources just in case it takes a while for anyone else to respond. You are doing great for your cham so far and if you have anymore questions, just ask! Someone will answer them, and I know I will try my best to answer them as well.
 
I’ll be breaking this into two parts as I tend to talk a lot. ;)
Hello all, tomorrow makes two weeks having my first cham. We got him from PetSmart, I believe he is between 4 and 5 months old. It’s really hard for me to see your baby. I’d like to confirm gender by seeing the tarsal spurs on his back feet and get a better idea of age by a good pic of him.
I know that the cage size is incorrect, as we got the chameleon kit for him so we would be able to bring him home. I know it's recommended to have your set up ready before you bring them home, but alas. We did not.. 😱 Oh no! How horrible!😛 That’s ok. Most of us have less than ideal starts, to put it kindly. You will want at least a 2x2x4’ enclosure, which is the minimum size for an adult. If you are able to give him larger than that, he’ll use all of the space.
I am mostly happy with everything aside from the size. I already had a number of plants perfect for an enclosure so being able to use them this way was exciting to me. Yes, your plants are perfect.
I changed the soil in all of them to jungle mix repi-breeze. Ok. Did you wash the leaves or are they plants that you’ve had for a while? Some like to cover the soil with stones that are too large to be eaten. That’s up to you. Unless he’s really chowing down on soil for some reason, it should be ok.
His stick for basking is right at 6 inches from his heat lamp. (I have to double check what he's go in there for that. I know it's one of the blue blubs that emits the soft white light. This light needs to be raised at least a few inches off the screen top. Little ones enjoy walking upside down along the screen top and are at risk for burns. I use wire baskets from the dollar store to raise my lights...nothing fancy. The distance between basking area and lights is dictated by your uvb. See below. :)
We have the reptisun T5 H0 5.0 UVB 24" fixture, and it is 4 feet from the bottom of his enclosure. I see this is recommended for enclosure this size. (I don't quite understand UVB yet. would love help on that.... ) We just got the correct bulb for him yesterday. Yes, this is the correct. In order for your little one to get the ideal UV index/level of 3.0, you need the uvb light to be 8-9” above basking area. UVB is a big subject and I’d direct you to search for blogs about it and go to chameleon academy for learning.
ambient temps in house are usually 68-70. Nice.
I have a thermal heat gun as well as the probe thermometer and circular hydrometer that came with the kit. I know they tend to be kind of off, but I like it for a general idea. The analog circle thing is notoriously inaccurate. I also have a digital reader for temp and humidity. Perfect. I move it around in the day. sometimes I keep it right by the window and I know if it’s high there, it's probably getting that way in his enclosure. I will close the blinds and or curtains and turn the air down one degree in the house and that does the trick. Hmmm….:unsure: Does the sun shine directly in on him? If so, you may want to move his enclosure so the sun is more indirect and won’t heat him up.
I don't let it get any hotter that 90 at his basking spot. I will turn his heat bulb off for a while if it starts getting up there. This is much too hot. For a baby, you don’t want temps to exceed 80. For an adult male you don’t want his temps above 85. Older standards had us baking our chams but as more has been learned about their life in the wild, we keep them cooler now.
I check his temps a time or two throughout the day, especially around 12, as he is near a window. I keep the ceiling fan on during the day and that helps the humidity stay down. Between 35 and 55, depending on how it is outside/ inside Very good.
Lights turn on at 8am and off at 8pm Also very good.
Fogger turns on at 1am until 7am I would advise having it set to turn off earlier, like around 5-6.
I hand mist for one minute right after his lights turn off, and for one minute, 30 minutes before his lights come on. ( Will get the mist king when we get his 2X2x4 enclosure in about 3 weeks. ) He is not a fan of the misting. he absolutely hates it. You could increase the time to 2 minutes each time when you get his bigger enclosure and Mist King. If he needs, you could add a brief mid day misting of a minute or so. Go by his urates. If white/light, he’s well hydrated. A little dark on the end is normal, especially if he hasn’t pooped for a few days.
When his lights turn off, I cover two sides of his enclosure with a clear shower curtain cut to size, and turn off the ceiling fan. Unless it drastically increases your humidity, you could probably leave it on during the day.
I take it off about 7:30am.
As far as I know. Temps get down to 68 late in the night. And the highest I can get the humidity is between 60% and 70% That’s ok. It isn’t always possible to get humidity higher at night.
Once I get the mist king I know it'll be able to get a bit higher in the late/early hours. This looks to be a good spot to break this up.
To be continued…..
 
Oxylus (my cham) seems to wake up between 6-6:30AM. And he then moves to sit under his fogger. Once it cuts off, he slowly walks around some. Or goes to one of the sun beams coming through the window into his enclosure. Once I uncover him Do you mean the shower curtain in two sides, or are you using a different type of cover? he either comes to life and is I assume hunting, or sits and watches me when I lay back down. I am thinking of keeping him covered until his lights come on.
He ate two Dubia roaches and is showing ZERO interest in them after. Keep trying. Many chams aren’t that thrilled with roaches at first. I guess it’s an acquired taste. 🤢He eats crickets fine. This is what he ate at the pet store so I expect that.. He seems unsure of the horn worm but it also was on my hand. Do be careful with hornworms. They have super sticky feet and on some surfaces your cham will have difficulty snagging them. It can result in tongue damage. I only hand feed them or put them on smooth plastic. He will eat from a bowl that I am holding, but still isn't crazy about my hand. Keep at it. Great way to build trust. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/ I am still trying out bugs. Attaching graphics to help you. Some on line vendors sell variety or sample packs, which are great. Check the sponsors. https://www.chameleonforums.com/sponsors/?tag=food
I gut load with sweet potato, mango and bell pepper at the moment. Great start, but you could add a bit more. Healthy well fed bugs are more nutritious. I don’t gut load…just keep my bugs fed. Do avoid things like the orange cubes, calcium diets and stuff like that. There are a few good commercial bug diets…listed on graphic below.
In his first week he was only eating up to 7 crickets a day.. but the last week he's been eating up to 19. Veileds are opportunistic eaters with bottomless stomachs. How much we feed them depends on age and gender. The younger they are, the more we want to offer for them to grow. Once a female reaches sexual maturity (which can be as young as 5-6 months) we are careful not to overfeed which would cause her to produce too many eggs. So it’s important to verify gender and age of your cham to determine diet.
I also have some Wax worms. I give him two or three every few days.
He enjoys to free rang his food more than the bowl. He seems to loose interest in the bowl after about 3-5 bugs and then will literally go eat dirt until I shake the bowl and stir up the crickets. Or let one loose to catch his eye.. I am getting some flat rocks to cover the dirt.. I know I got dirt safe for him.. But it's stressing me out seeing him eating this dirt.. Ok…yup. You’ll want to get the rocks then. I would suggest trying a feeding station. There’s several different types on the market. I like/use the shooting gallery. https://www.rainbowmealworms.net/shooting-gallery-chameleon-feeder-1/ Some prefer the Full Throttle kind. https://www.fullthrottlefeeders.com/ and other types from various sources.
I've watches several videos and read articles on how to dust. And I feel like I'm doing everything accordingly.
Repti Calcium without D3 every feeding except the 1st and 15th, I use Reptivite with D3 Perfect! 🤩
(once again help understanding UVB would be awesome.. I feel like I have a decent grasp on everything else )
update as I type.. He seems to still be going for his dirt even after eating at least 19 crickets today. It is 4:05 pm. He still has one cricket that I can see left. If its not gone soon Ill take it out... I just put a small glass jars upside down on top of the soil. But he's still going for it. I have no idea what do.. I gotta find rocks.. but whats making him to do it in the first place?!?!?!? If you figure that out, let the rest of us know. Some believe it to be a mineral deficiency, like pica. 🤷‍♀️ Oh…just wondering if you’re aware that veileds often nibble their plants. Some take rare bites and some devour them. No one has figured the reason for this either.
You’ve got a fantastic start. I’ll see what links I can find about uvb for you and/or give you my simplistic understanding of it. 🥸 I’m very glad that you’ve found your way here. Do ask whatever questions you may have, share pics of your little one and just celebrate how incredible our animals are.
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So, everything you are doing is correct from the info you gave! There is a lot of help that will be here Monday I assume, since there are people like @Beman and @MissSkittles and @kinyonga that will help tons more than I can. I am not sure why you are covering the cage... Is it for humidity? If so, the mister will help, but you may want to look into a hybrid vivarium depending on the humidity of the area you are in. I would suggest Dragonstrand.

There is a lot of online help for questions about UVB and other questions along the way. For that, I suggest Neptune the Chameleon and Chameleon Academy. They both are very reputable. For the UVB, with my knowledge, you should be ok with it when the 2x 2x 4x cage gets there, but for before, I'd make sure the UVB levels are correct with it's location.

If you wanted to know what UVB does, then heres a tiny description, but you can skip it if that isn't what you are asking.
UVB basically helps your chameleon with it's calcium levels and with things like vitamin D3. This is why/so you don't need to dust with D3 more than twice with Veiled's and Panthers.

Your hiding spots are great though, I couldn't see him in the last picture for a solid minute, which is a great thing. HOWEVER, I would check the backs of his feet to check for tarsal spurs because pet stores are TERRIBLE at sexing chams correctly. Some females have started to have spurs too, so getting a good look at the coloration might help. You can post more pictures here for someone else to check. The main concern would be a laying basket if they sexed him incorrectly.


Hybrid enclosure: https://dragonstrand.com/product/tall-hybrid-chameleon-cage-system/
Neptune the Chameleon (youtube): https://www.youtube.com/@NeptunetheChameleon/videos
Neptune the Chameleon (website): https://neptunethechameleon.simplybook.me/v2/
Chameleon Academy (youtube): https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/
Chameleon Academy (basics): https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/
Chameleon Academy (Veiled's): https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/

Sorry if this is all stuff you knew/boring to read! I wanted to make sure you have a good amount of resources just in case it takes a while for anyone else to respond. You are doing great for your cham so far and if you have anymore questions, just ask! Someone will answer them, and I know I will try my best to answer them as well.

So, everything you are doing is correct from the info you gave! There is a lot of help that will be here Monday I assume, since there are people like @Beman and @MissSkittles and @kinyonga that will help tons more than I can. I am not sure why you are covering the cage... Is it for humidity? If so, the mister will help, but you may want to look into a hybrid vivarium depending on the humidity of the area you are in. I would suggest Dragonstrand.

There is a lot of online help for questions about UVB and other questions along the way. For that, I suggest Neptune the Chameleon and Chameleon Academy. They both are very reputable. For the UVB, with my knowledge, you should be ok with it when the 2x 2x 4x cage gets there, but for before, I'd make sure the UVB levels are correct with it's location.

If you wanted to know what UVB does, then heres a tiny description, but you can skip it if that isn't what you are asking.
UVB basically helps your chameleon with it's calcium levels and with things like vitamin D3. This is why/so you don't need to dust with D3 more than twice with Veiled's and Panthers.

Your hiding spots are great though, I couldn't see him in the last picture for a solid minute, which is a great thing. HOWEVER, I would check the backs of his feet to check for tarsal spurs because pet stores are TERRIBLE at sexing chams correctly. Some females have started to have spurs too, so getting a good look at the coloration might help. You can post more pictures here for someone else to check. The main concern would be a laying basket if they sexed him incorrectly.


Hybrid enclosure: https://dragonstrand.com/product/tall-hybrid-chameleon-cage-system/
Neptune the Chameleon (youtube): https://www.youtube.com/@NeptunetheChameleon/videos
Neptune the Chameleon (website): https://neptunethechameleon.simplybook.me/v2/
Chameleon Academy (youtube): https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/
Chameleon Academy (basics): https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/
Chameleon Academy (Veiled's): https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/

Sorry if this is all stuff you knew/boring to read! I wanted to make sure you have a good amount of resources just in case it takes a while for anyone else to respond. You are doing great for your cham so far and if you have anymore questions, just ask! Someone will answer them, and I know I will try my best to answer them as well.
Thank you! I appreciate it. and Yes, I cover him at night just to help get the humidity up just a bit more.. When I cover it, his humidity gets around 65-75% sometimes 80 if I wake up in the night and mist. But if I leave it uncovered, with just his fogger, it doesn't like to get much above 50%.
 
@Humble please scroll up. You will not get notifications for every post in your thread. @MissSkittles went through everything. There are a few areas that have to be corrected asap such as the UVB... Looks like you have it raised way off the cage. This is too far and will not get UVB to your cham. Please see her feedback on this. Welcome to the forum.
 
@Beman @MissSkittles Thanks for all of that!!!
I will get some better pictures of him soon! He definitely has spurs on the back feet. (The people at the pet store had no idea what sex he was)
All plants were ones I've had in my kitchen for at least a year, but I still washed all of them when I changed the soil.
Should I lower his UVB light? I watched a few videos from Neptune the Chameleon and I see that the UVB should be 4 feet from the bottom.. That has been my biggest question about the UVB bulb. That if his enclosure is 4ft tall, the light will be right on top of it, as well as heat bulb, Meaning the two lights will be right next to each other.. But because his enclosure is too small, the bulb needs to be raised, so he doesn't get TOO much UVB.. His basking spot should be 6-8 inches from the bulb(s) ????? ( Im sorry Im have having a hard time explaining my thoughts of confusion over a message )
Should his UVB bulb not be 4 feet from the bottom? I thought this bulb was designed for a 4ft cage and that is why it is 4ft from the bottom... But I also have been concerned he's not getting enough uvb with it being so high up.. But I didnt want to lower it, and him have nowhere to hide from the uvb.. ( A solar meter is on our list of things to get. correct enclosure is just first)
I will lower his light today if needed.
The sun does not shine directly into the room at all. Just indirect light. A low light plant would need to be no further than a foot away if it wanted any benefit from the light.
When I say cover, I mean she shower curtain. If left on during the day, his humidity get way up there. If I don't have it on at night, It just doesn't get up there the way I'd like.. No higher than 57 (even with the ceiling fan off) Any time the air kicks on, the humidity drops.
Thanks for correction on temps! Got that fixed!
Will change fogger times, I had the extra hour because I don't have a mister that goes off in the night yet, and I figured it would help a bit with more humidity and moisture until i get a mister. And I noticed when he wakes up, he goes and sits next to or in the line of fog for about 10 minutes.. So I figured he liked it.. He has started sleeping closer to it though now that he has gotten more comfortable and everything is on timers now.
His poops have all looked fine. So far Ive gotten at least one a day. Urite has been white or slight creme color. Once it was a bit watery but it was the day after the two horn worms, today his poop is normal.
(Read and saw video on feeding hornworms and how sticky they are, when he wouldn't eat from my hand. I used a smooth plastic lid. I don't feel comfortable using tongs, plastic or the ones with the little covers on them)
Thanks for the links on bug vendors!
I've got rocks to cover all of the dirt.
My guy loves his plants. He favors the golden pothos over the jade. He ate one bite of his jade his first night with us.. Taking maybe one or two bites of it a day... I gave him the golden, and he ate an entire leaf in two days. then we went back to just a bite or two from a plant a day, but was eating all the dirt.. Now that the rocks are there, instead of doing a round and reading dirt, he just circled the enclosure and took about 4 or 5 bites from his plants.
Will get more things for gut loading. I also keep food with the bugs I'm not feeding him. His crickets all have food in there with them. And every night I have my husband take out about 18-20 bugs in a separate container and I put food in there with them.
Getting some pictures now.
Thank you again everyone
 
Trying to get pictures without upsetting him
 

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He watches me, and it cracks me up.. He will "follow me" If I am sitting up in bed, lots of times he moves down from his basking spot and watches me through the leaves.. If I lay back, he moves over an inch or two, and I can see his little head bend around a leaves sometimes. I try not to make eye contact, especially when feeding.. In the mornings, I sit on the floor in front of his enclosure, he comes to the front and watches me get his bowl out and dust his crickets. When I open it, he now will just lift up one of his arms, and lean back a bit. Used to he ran to the other side.. for my husband. He puffs up and gapes his mouth ( My husband is gone every morning for work so I do his feedings, except Saturdays, if Im running late, my husband tends to him.)
Sometimes he is uninterested when I sit at his enclosure, but as soon as I open it and show him the crickets hopping around the bowl, he all but runs to the door.
 
You have a young male...

Can you tell me the specifics about the UVB fixture and bulb strength you got? I need to know if this is a T5HO and if the bulb strength is a 5.0, 6%, 10.0, or 12%. Then I can give you an exact distance from the bottom of the fixture to the basking branches below.
 
You have a young male...

Can you tell me the specifics about the UVB fixture and bulb strength you got? I need to know if this is a T5HO and if the bulb strength is a 5.0, 6%, 10.0, or 12%. Then I can give you an exact distance from the bottom of the fixture to the basking branches below.
 

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I love when people save boxes it helps me so much... Ok so you have a T5HO fixture and the UVB bulb that comes with that one is a 5.0 strength. You are going to drop that fixture all the way down. You want to measure 9 inches from the branch to the bottom of the fixture. So if your branches sit 8-9 inches down from the screen top you will place the fixture directly on the cage top. If your branches sit 6 inches from the screen top you will place the fixture 3 inches above the screen. This will put the cham in the needed 3 uvi level which stimulates growth, appetite and much more. Also provides the correct UVI exposure for D3 conversion in the chams body which equals healthy strong bones. He is a very handsome little boy. Based on size and his coloring coming in, I am betting more like 6 months old.

Take and mount that wall plug onto the wall away from the cage. You do not want electronics and water in the same area. Too big of a risk.

You have done really well setting up the baby cage with all live plants and I am glad you have already ordered his big boy house.
 
I love when people save boxes it helps me so much... Ok so you have a T5HO fixture and the UVB bulb that comes with that one is a 5.0 strength. You are going to drop that fixture all the way down. You want to measure 9 inches from the branch to the bottom of the fixture. So if your branches sit 8-9 inches down from the screen top you will place the fixture directly on the cage top. If your branches sit 6 inches from the screen top you will place the fixture 3 inches above the screen. This will put the cham in the needed 3 uvi level which stimulates growth, appetite and much more. Also provides the correct UVI exposure for D3 conversion in the chams body which equals healthy strong bones. He is a very handsome little boy. Based on size and his coloring coming in, I am betting more like 6 months old.

Take and mount that wall plug onto the wall away from the cage. You do not want electronics and water in the same area. Too big of a risk.

You have done really well setting up the baby cage with all live plants and I am glad you have already ordered his big boy house.
I will have to get a picture of his night time set up with his cover. The left over shower curtain is used to cover the outlets and plugs. I don't usually have it on the table. But yes a wall mount is the plan! His whole set up will get an upgrade soon. We have a stand being built for him, so we can drill holes for drainage. It will also be a litter taller so he's more elevated.. ! We definitely got him before we had everything ready. But I had been watching him outgrow his tiny tank in the pet store for a month! They put him on sale and I couldn't stop myself!!!
 
Thank so much for the help! I've been seeing how serious UVB is and I've been so stressed over it!!! Every time I've looked at his light I've told my husband "he just cant be getting enough with it all the way up there!" But I kept seeing it needed to be 4 feet from the bottom.. but it might have been a different bulb.. Anyway.. Thank you again!!!!
 
@Beman UVB bulb moved down. I'll lift his heat bulb an inch above the cage.
Will keep an extra eye on temp. If it starts to get above 80 I will turn his heat bulb off.
If air is set to 70 in house, we are upstairs with a carpet room so it is always a bit warmer in here than downstairs. So let's say bedroom temp is 72. My guy has already eaten for the day, done his basking. And with heat bulb off, it still stays around 73 or 74 in his enclosure being near the window. Does his heat bulb need to be on the full 12 hours as well? Or will it hurt to just turn his bulb off from about.. 12 until 2 or 3 when it starts to cool off outside again?
The sun doesn't shine directly through the window. But the house itself warms up midday until 3 or so in the summer. And by the window is a degree or two warmer as well. So even with his heat bulb off, midday his enclosure is easy 75 most days unless is raining out.
I'm on the Mississippi Gulf Coast.
I've thought about maybe turning his heat light off about 7, but I don't feel experienced enough to make decisions like that 🤣
 

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@Beman UVB bulb moved down. I'll lift his heat bulb an inch above the cage.
Will keep an extra eye on temp. If it starts to get above 80 I will turn his heat bulb off.
If air is set to 70 in house, we are upstairs with a carpet room so it is always a bit warmer in here than downstairs. So let's say bedroom temp is 72. My guy has already eaten for the day, done his basking. And with heat bulb off, it still stays around 73 or 74 in his enclosure being near the window. Does his heat bulb need to be on the full 12 hours as well? Or will it hurt to just turn his bulb off from about.. 12 until 2 or 3 when it starts to cool off outside again?
The sun doesn't shine directly through the window. But the house itself warms up midday until 3 or so in the summer. And by the window is a degree or two warmer as well. So even with his heat bulb off, midday his enclosure is easy 75 most days unless is raining out.
I'm on the Mississippi Gulf Coast.
I've thought about maybe turning his heat light off about 7, but I don't feel experienced enough to make decisions like that 🤣
Ok so rework your plan for the showercurtain. It can not be completely blocking all the sides. This does not allow for air circulation and you will get stagnant moist air. With fogging you need air movement and you need lower temps at least 67. So you could have it wrap the side and the door panel but then there would need to be an opening where the service door is to allow air flow into the bottom of the cage to pull the air up and out the top.

I run my basking fixture for about 5 hours only 9-2. this allows for the cage to slowly heat up and then cool back down.

What is your distance now for the UVB from the bottom of the fixture to the branches? Still looks a bit far.
 
38" from the bottom
Right at 11" from his basking spot. I will have my husband move it down another two inches when he gets home.
His shower curtain only covers the door and the side of his enclosure. I didn't get a full picture sorry. The top is uncovers as well as the other two sides are uncovered. The fog rolls to the bottom, and then out the other two sides. Should I move him another inch away from the wall to let it flow out more?
Will let the service door be uncovered
 
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