I’ll be putting my feedback in bold. Disclaimer: I talk a lot. 
My chameleon- I purchased at PetSmart, age, gender is unknown because they didn’t know when I asked. I know for sure it’s a vieled chameleon. I just got it yesterday.
Can you post more pics? If you can get a clear pic of the back of the back feet, we can determine gender. Males have little nubs on their heels, called tarsal spurs. We can also give a rough age estimate.
Handling- I have not handled my chameleon yet as I want it to get used to its habitat because it seems quite scared when I try to handle it.
Poor little one is scared. It’s best to give it about a week or so to settle in and then approach slowly. You need to build trust. This is a great blog on doing so. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
Feeding- I Feed my chamelon small crickets about the length in between it’s eyes, mealworms dusted in calcium powder, and I am starting to give it greens.
Yes, feeders can’t be any larger than the space between the eyes. Mealworms aren’t a good staple feeder. There are lots of great options. Attaching some graphics for you. Even though veileds will eat some produce, they have no need for it. It’s better to feed the fresh produce to your feeder insects. Keeping the feeders healthy and well fed will make them more nutritious for your chameleon. Avoid the orange cubes and such.
Vitamins- i use zoo med’s reptivite powder with d3, I dusted a few worms for the first time but I’ll most likely be dusting once or twice a week unless someone knows when I should. Let me know please.
You’ll need a phosphorus free calcium without D3 to lightly dust at every feeding except those you’ll be using other supplements. I like/use the Reptivite with D3 as an all in one multivitamin and D3. You’ll use that for one feeding every other week.
Watering- I have a misting machine coming in the mail on Sunday but for water I have a little fountain bowl it can drink out of and I mist it’s cage 2-3 times a day.
While fountains look nice, they are not good for chams. It’s much better to just mist for at least 2 minutes 2-3 times a day - right before lights go on, right before lights off and you can either add another 2 minute mist mid day or add a dripper for about 20 minutes. The fountain should be removed as it will become a bacterial risk.
Fecal description- dark brown to black little pebble looking
There should also be a little white/yellow bit to it which is the urate. I always think a veterinary wellness visit with a fresh fecal sample for parasites testing is a great idea. Coming from Petsmart, the risk of having a parasite are increased.
History- at petsmart this guy was in the smallest cage ever so I’m not sure how they treated him, I’m glad he’s in a bigger one now. I hope he’ll be alright.
With your love and attentive care, he should be just fine. 
Cage info:
So I had the
Thrive Tropical Reptile Terrarium
Essentials Kit - 30 Gallon what the chamelon is in now but I have a new cage coming in the mail today because I heard glass cages aren’t good for them. The cage I ordered that’s coming today is reptibreeze chamelon kit. It’s a screened cage.
Glass actually isn’t bad, but it depends on your location and other aspects. For a new keeper though, I am partial to suggesting screen. Minimum size for adults is 2x2x4’. While that may seem huge, your cham will use all of that space and be happy to have it.
Lighting- as of now we use a 13Watt UVB bulb and a 60Watt daytime blue heat bulb from thrive.
I’m not familiar with Thrive products but do believe it most likely isn’t correct. You’ll need a linear T5HO fixture (as long as your enclosure’s width) with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Lights should be about 8-9” above basking area. Since smaller chams like to screen climb along the top, it’s best to raise the lights off the screen. I use little wire baskets from the dollar store for this - not pretty but works great. Temp ranges in the cage in between 70-80 according to thermometer, at night it ranges between 60-70 as I turn off the heat lamp and give my chameleon complete darkness to sleep.
Basking temp should be 80 and no higher than 82. Adult males can have temps a bit higher up to 85, but females should stay at 80. A good nighttime temp drop is ideal and veileds can handle temps down to the low 60’s. Yes, no lights at night. A 12 hour on/off cycle is perfect and timers make this super easy.
Humidity levels- the level right now is over 100 which is bad I don’t know how to fix it so if I could have some info on humidity and how to help it that would be really great thank you. Humidity at night is usually in between 80-90 it’s day now and it’s at 100 so that’s not good. Please leave feedback
Yikes! 100% during the day is not good! Ideal daytime range is between 30-50%. You need good air circulation. Until you get the screen enclosure, try placing a small muffin type fan on top to draw the air out of the tank. If your night temps drop to at least 70, humidity can go all the way to 80-100%. This simulates the natural hydration from fog that they get in the wild. High heat + high humidity = respiratory infection risk. I do need to add that the analog thermometers/hygrometers are notoriously inaccurate. Digital ones with probe ends are much better.
Plants- I am using real wooden logs for climbing but all the leaves I am using are fake. I have a dripper exo plant as well.
Yes! Real wood and branches are awesome! Make sure to give a gentle wash with soapy water and very thorough rinse to natural branches (you can use any from outside except pine and other sappy ones). There should be a variety of diameters to keep those cute little mitten feet muscles well exercised. Lots of branches/vines = more roads for your cham to traverse. Fake plants are an impaction risk for veileds as they do nibble their plants and it only takes one bite. Replace all with washed safe live plants and hang the fake on the outside of the enclosure for added privacy. Anything beyond pothos & philodendron will need an additional special plant light. Create a little forest edge for your cham…places of dappled and full shade. Oh…the dripper plant also needs to go - bacterial hazard.
Placement. My cage is right next to my tv on a desk in my room, it’s away from any light/windows so too much sunlight doesn’t get in. It’s usually dark in here with a little light.
While chams have very poor hearing, just be careful of light and sound vibrations from the TV after cham lights out. The higher they are, the safer they feel.
Location- I am located in the middle of California , specifically east Bay Area.
Worries concerns-
I am just worried about the cage itself and how it is effecting him if it is I hope the new cage I ordered today is gonna be better because it’s screened. I’d like feedback on everything if possible and thanks so much for your help guys I really appreciate you I’m just trying to give this little one the best life possible
Well, I’ve given you a lot of feedback and suggestions. 
I’ve given you the basic standards of care for making and keeping your sweet little one in the happiest and healthiest conditions. While there are a lot of changes, getting the correct supplementation, lighting and in your situation, enclosure changed are the most important and priority. If the screen enclosure you ordered isn’t a 2x2x4’ one, it’s your choice to use it and order the larger or return for larger. You do want to get your cham‘s humidity down ASAP though. Do ask any questions you may have and don’t forget to post the pics so we can determine gender and age. If you have a female, you’ll need to know that they do lay eggs even if not mated and that’s more instruction needed to give to you.
