Need Help!

[Wykd]

Yeah that is kind of where I was going with pushing him on the temperature. That basking spot is low and basically on the ground so not much variation could be had in that glass tank. I was worried the guy was over heating and needing more air is why he keeps going to the dark side and up high. Sadly in that small glass tank he may get a 10-15 degree differnce without a fan pulling air out. Or do some rearranging and put a lower watt bulb in and raise the basking spot location to higher in the tank. no?

You want to have it about 100 at the basking spot but mid 70's towards the bottom because he needs to be able to cool down. Watch out while he is in the glass, tanks tend to keep the heat in. If you can put a fan across the top so it pulls the air out of the tank and circulates it.

 

[camimom]

You want to have it about 100 at the basking spot but mid 70's towards the bottom because he needs to be able to cool down. Watch out while he is in the glass, tanks tend to keep the heat in. If you can put a fan across the top so it pulls the air out of the tank and circulates it.

Personally I would never
Keep a male veiled over a baskin temp of 88. 100 is way to high in my opinion. Panthers can handle a higher baskin temp but
Not veileds. And anyone with a veiled I think will say the same thing. Jmo

 

[justjumpit621]

Personally I would never
Keep a male veiled over a baskin temp of 88. 100 is way to high in my opinion. Panthers can handle a higher baskin temp but
Not veileds. And anyone with a veiled I think will say the same thing. Jmo

I thought it is the other way around? Veileds are from Yemen, which is arid and can get super hot. Madagascar is a bit cooler because of the forest density


http://www.veiledchameleoncaresheet.com/

 

[camimom]

I thought it is the other way around? Veileds are from Yemen, which is arid and can get super hot. Madagascar is a bit cooler because of the forest density

Nope. Panthers can take higher temps, but at max I'd only do 95 (if that) for them. anything past 90 for a veiled, ESP in a glass cage is asking for trouble. I keep my male at 88 and he's fine. Go higher and he gapes and hides on the bottom. If you read jannbs blog
On veileds you'll see she doesn't do anything that high either

 

[Jordantheblind]

thanks for the advice guys. really is very helpful

 

[reptilover]

Nope. Panthers can take higher temps, but at max I'd only do 95 (if that) for them. anything past 90 for a veiled, ESP in a glass cage is asking for trouble. I keep my male at 88 and he's fine. Go higher and he gapes and hides on the bottom. If you read jannbs blog
On veileds you'll see she doesn't do anything that high either

My male veiled looses it over 92. 100 is like uromastx temps.. so I agree with camimom. As usual

 

[camimom]

My male veiled looses it over 92. 100 is like uromastx temps.. so I agree with camimom. As usual

Well thank ya.

And yea my guy hates anything over 88, and some days.. he even hates that.... he'll go hide lower in his plants and glare at me.

 

[justjumpit621]

I have just always heard 90-100 basking for adult male veileds and lower for panthers. My panther doesn't really like the high temps, but my veiled always did. all care sheets I read also have a lower temperature for panthers like 85, but range from 88-high 90's for veileds. Dunno...

Edit: Found this posted by Olimpia

https://www.chameleonforums.com/blo...caresheet-comparing-male-panther-veileds.html

 

[Elizadolots]

I think a basking temperature over 90 is going to work well in a large, well planted cage. That may well be ideal. However, this is a pretty small environment and there isn't going to be much difference between hottest to coolest, so a healthy in between temperature at the basking point is going to be desirable.

I think the "coolest" temperature is as important in this sort of situation as the warmest and I don't think the "coolest" temperature should be anything over 75 degrees. On a guess that's going to mean a basking temperature of no more than 85 degrees.

The ability to create a temperature range is one of the reasons a bigger enclosure is important.

 

[Wykd]

Agree, in this chameleon's situation I would avoid the higher temp if possible, there is not alot of room to create a temperature variation across the tank.

Temp variations/range is really dependant on the size/type of tank no? ie a small glass tank should shoot for the lowest basking temp allowable I would think, so that there is more chance for a lower temp area in the tank.

At least that is how I think on it, is that logic flawed?

I think a basking temperature over 90 is going to work well in a large, well planted cage. That may well be ideal. However, this is a pretty small environment and there isn't going to be much difference between hottest to coolest, so a healthy in between temperature at the basking point is going to be desirable.

I think the "coolest" temperature is as important in this sort of situation as the warmest and I don't think the "coolest" temperature should be anything over 75 degrees. On a guess that's going to mean a basking temperature of no more than 85 degrees.

The ability to create a temperature range is one of the reasons a bigger enclosure is important.

 

[Jordantheblind]

okay this is my third day with him now. ive moved the light to about 1 foot away from the cage and only turn it on for an hour or so at a time. humity is in the low 90s and i have two water bottles set up for drip. ive gut loaded some crix n put em in there but hes still not eating. im sure hes stressed. he just got out of the shower but i cant seem to get him to eat. i tried holding a mealworm in from of his mouth, as well as a cricket but he doesnt even flinch when the bug hits him right on the mouth. anybody got any ideas?

 

[Wykd]

You tuning the light on and off is going to wreak havoc on him. He needs to feel stable and in control of his surroundings. He is getting confused if its nap time or roam time probably. That humidity is kind of high no?

 

[laurie]

I just sent you a private message. Let me know how he is doing and if you have what supplies you need.

 

[Jordantheblind]

okay, ill quite with the light.
i will quit misting so much. any ideas to help him eat?

 

[laurie]

You should try some soft bodied feeders, silk worms, small horn worms, butter worms, even wax worms will help right now. Some Walmarts carry butter worms and wax worms in the fishing section in the frig. a bait store might also have them.

 

[Jordantheblind]

i just successfully manually fed him 3 mealworms. he crawledinto my hand as normal and i help him and fes him three worms with some tongs. he couldnt see what he was doing but with a little help, i got him to open up and have a bite. i just kind of tugged (superlightly!!!) on his beard and he opened his mouth a small crack, then i began too tickle his tounge witht the meal worm, after he got a taste he was more open to the idea. after three he wouldnt eat any more, but its a step in the right direction

 

[Elizadolots]

That's great! It's definitely a step in the right direction. Now that he has a clue what you're doing, maybe he'll be even more cooperative in the future. And, as it seems he hasn't been eating much, you really do want to ease him back into it.

 

[Wykd]

Cool on the eating part! I would keep up with the showers until you have the new cage up and him settled in.

So he still has not opened his eyelids though? Did you get a chance to try that repti rinse I mentioned earlier? If so and it dint help I would seriously get him into a vet soon as you have the funds. I know you just rescued the guy and that's big up front out of pocket hit and doesn't leave a lot extra for vet trips.

 

[Jordantheblind]

i have been using a repti spray. its for vitamins and to prevent dehydration. is that what your speaking of? or is there something else? he seems to enjoy the showers. ill look inot supplemental vitamin a possibly?

 

[Wykd]

the spray i mentioned and named earlier is for the eyes. look thru this thread and you will see it.