Need help
- Thread starter KushChameleon
- Start date
napoleon2411
New Member
there you go, now everyone can see. Hope that helps.
KushChameleon
New Member
Thanks I hope so
napoleon2411
New Member
Sorry im quite new to all this too... my only advice would be UVB and lower temps. Hopefully someone more senior can help a bit more now...!
Good luck.
Good luck.
KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
Looks like a Senegal.
KushChameleon
New Member
Ok so how do I know for sure what kind of camelon I have they told me at the pet store it was a veiled and I've only had her for a week
Definitely not a veiled. Looks like a Senegal to me too.
You said..."she has a basking light and the infrared heat lamp"...and..."Its about 90-100"...IMHO the basking temperature is too warm. It would be better in the low to mid 80's F. Your chameleon needs a UVB light unless it can be outside a lot.
You said..."I added some loose coconut substrate in there as well"...most people recommend using no substrate since many of them can lead to impaction if ingested. Has the chameleon been pooping lately?
You said for supplements you use Herptive...which is fine to use twice a month as a vitamin powder...but your chameleon needs phos.-free calcium dusted on the insects at most feedings and it would also be good to use a phos.-free calcium with D3 twice a month.
Here's some information I hope will help you ....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
You said..."she has a basking light and the infrared heat lamp"...and..."Its about 90-100"...IMHO the basking temperature is too warm. It would be better in the low to mid 80's F. Your chameleon needs a UVB light unless it can be outside a lot.
You said..."I added some loose coconut substrate in there as well"...most people recommend using no substrate since many of them can lead to impaction if ingested. Has the chameleon been pooping lately?
You said for supplements you use Herptive...which is fine to use twice a month as a vitamin powder...but your chameleon needs phos.-free calcium dusted on the insects at most feedings and it would also be good to use a phos.-free calcium with D3 twice a month.
Here's some information I hope will help you ....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
camimom
New Member
Your pet store was seriously wrong. THis is my thread, with my Male veiled.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/requested-new-pics-kids-72623/
I guarentee what you have, is not a veiled. They have high casques on their heads, and yours doesnt.
Im going to say you have a senegal chameleon.
Which means, PM karmachameleon and talk to her. she has a senegal as well, and you need different information than what we have told you regarding care.
Although, you still need no substrate, and you NEED a UVB bulb.
whereswaldo
New Member
just wandering why theyd sell them the wrong kind.
definatly doesnt look like a veiled arent senegals more expensive why would they do that? i mean everyone makes misteaks but if they had enough different kinds to offer more then just veileds wouldnt they know the difference?
im sure that once youve made the changes they suggested shell perk up. just a heads up go ahead and get ur vedt money together if she dont get beter u need to be ready to spend some cash quickly i found our first check up informative and settling and expensive just to find out hes healthy but its needed. and if your girls sick could be expensive.
hope she starts feeling well.
definatly doesnt look like a veiled arent senegals more expensive why would they do that? i mean everyone makes misteaks but if they had enough different kinds to offer more then just veileds wouldnt they know the difference?
im sure that once youve made the changes they suggested shell perk up. just a heads up go ahead and get ur vedt money together if she dont get beter u need to be ready to spend some cash quickly i found our first check up informative and settling and expensive just to find out hes healthy but its needed. and if your girls sick could be expensive.
hope she starts feeling well.
camimom
New Member
I dont know anything about the pricing of senegals.
I can only assume that they didnt have any idea what they had. Im betting someone sold it to them, a breeder, a random store patron, and told them it was a veiled and they ran with that.
As a baby, I can see how it could be confused with a veield since veiled babies dont have the casque yet. But by this age, its fairly obvious.
I also recommend getting your funds together, as a vet visit may be in order.
KarmaChameleon1337
Avid Member
I got Karma, my CB Senegal for 100 bucks.
