Need help spotting burn marks

[Yaominator]

Hello!

I just noticed that there’s dark spots on my veiled. I have encircled and posted pictures. Was wondering if these are burn marks?

Im currently running a uvb 5.0 on top of his cage for 12 hrs per day
No heater as i live in asia temp is around 74-85 deg
humidity at a constant 55-60% during the day and rises upto 70ish at night

Any help would be greatlt appreciated

Thank you!

 

[Beman]

Hello!

I just noticed that there’s dark spots on my veiled. I have encircled and posted pictures. Was wondering if these are burn marks?

Im currently running a uvb 5.0 on top of his cage for 12 hrs per day
No heater as i live in asia temp is around 74-85 deg
humidity at a constant 55-60% during the day and rises upto 70ish at night

Any help would be greatlt appreciated

Thank you!

Hey there the coloring I am seeing is normal for a male as they mature. He has beautiful teals.

Are you using a linear T5HO fixture for the 5.0 UVB? I am seeing some slight bowing to his limbs which is a sign of MBD.

 

[Yaominator]

Hey there the coloring I am seeing is normal for a male as they mature. He has beautiful teals.

Are you using a linear T5HO fixture for the 5.0 UVB? I am seeing some slight bowing to his limbs which is a sign of MBD.

Hello appreciate your reply
Its good to hear that the colornis normal.

No im actually using those repti something uvb bulbs and set on a light dome. The t5ho fixture i dont know how i can install in the cage as it’s only 18” x 18” wide

 

[kinyonga]

Welcome to the forum!

I agree with @Beman …I see slight bowing in the arms too.
What supplements are you using?
I’m particularly looking for calcium, phos, D3 and the type of vitamin A.

 

[Yaominator]

Welcome to the forum!

I agree with @Beman …I see slight bowing in the arms too.
what supplements are you using?
im particularly looking for calcium, phos, D3 and the type of vitamin A.

Im currently dusting my dubia and crickets with this. Zoomed reptivite. If this is not adequate please do send me a link to better supplements.

 

[kinyonga]

If you’re using that at all feedings you’re overdosing the vitamin D and likely the vitamin A as well. This weakens the bones…among other things.

You should be dusting at all feedings but two a month with a phos free calcium powder and on the two remaining feedings (say on the 1st and 15th of the month) with that Reptivite. All dusting should be don’t lightly.

 

[Beman]

Hello appreciate your reply
Its good to hear that the colornis normal.

No im actually using those repti something uvb bulbs and set on a light dome. The t5ho fixture i dont know how i can install in the cage as it’s only 18” x 18” wide

So you really want to upgrade the UVB type to a T5HO fixture and a 5.0 or 6% uvb bulb strength. If you are sitting this on top of a screen top then you want 8-9 inches to basking.


Your supplement is a multivitamin. This one should only be used 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. It has fat soluble vitamins in it which can cause issues of toxicity if given too often.

Then you want a plain phosphorus free calcium WITHOUT D3. This would be used lightly dusted on all feeders at all other feedings.

 

[Yaominator]

If you’re using that at all feedings you’re overdosing the vitamin D and likely the vitamin A as well. This weakens the bones…among other things.

You should be dusting at all feedings but two a month with a phos free calcium powder and on the two remaining feedings (say on the 1st and 15th of the month) with that Reptivite. All dusting should be don’t lightly.

This is readily available in a petstore near me. Would this be okay?

I really appreciate the help btw.

 

[Yaominator]

So you really want to upgrade the UVB type to a T5HO fixture and a 5.0 or 6% uvb bulb strength. If you are sitting this on top of a screen top then you want 8-9 inches to basking.


Your supplement is a multivitamin. This one should only be used 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. It has fat soluble vitamins in it which can cause issues of toxicity if given too often.

Then you want a plain phosphorus free calcium WITHOUT D3. This would be used lightly dusted on all feeders at all other feedings.

You mean there should be 8-9 inches of space between chameleon and the lamp? But then sometimes my chameleon climbs the screen to bask. If the 8-9inch space is not possible are there ang options!
Sorry for the pics i always post but ive attached a reptisun uvb 5.0 will this do? This brand is the one thats readily available here

 

[kinyonga]

You want a calcium with no phosphorous and no D3 to use at all feedings but two a month and on those two (two weeks apart) you want to use a vitamin powder with D3 and prEformed vitamin A in it.

D3 is needed for the chameleon to absorb the calcium out of its diet. D3 can also come from exposure to a proper UVB source such as the direct sun (when it does not pass through glass or plastic) or a long linear UVB bulb such as the Reptisun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% long linear bulb. However, D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues but as a rule, D3 produced from exposure to the UVB is converted by the body as needed and should not build up as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB light at will.

Vitamin A comes in two forms…prOformed (beta carotene) and prEformed (retinol) sources. Although the beta carotene won’t build up in the system, it’s thought that chameleons can’t convert the Beta carotene into vitamin A effectively…or maybe not even at all…so we use a prEformed source twice a month to ensure it gets some vitamin A without over doing it. The prEformed sources can build up in the system leading to health issues which is why we only use it twice a month carefully.

In addition to this, D3 and vitamin A are antagonistic to each other and need to be in balance.

Calcium of course is needed for strong bones and muscles and some other things as well…so we want to make sure they get enough.

We eliminate the phos because there is already too much in many of the insects we use to feed the chameleons.

Hope this helps to explain it all a little better.

 

[Yaominator]

You want a calcium with no phosphorous and no D3 to use at all feedings but two a month and on those two (two weeks apart) you want to use a vitamin powder with D3 and prEformed vitamin A in it.

D3 is needed for the chameleon to absorb the calcium out of its diet. D3 can also come from exposure to a proper UVB source such as the direct sun (when it does not pass through glass or plastic) or a long linear UVB bulb such as the Reptisun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% long linear bulb. However, D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues but as a rule, D3 produced from exposure to the UVB is converted by the body as needed and should not build up as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB light at will.

Vitamin A comes in two forms…prOformed (beta carotene) and prEformed (retinol) sources. Although the beta carotene won’t build up in the system, it’s thought that chameleons can’t convert the Beta carotene into vitamin A effectively…or maybe not even at all…so we use a prEformed source twice a month to ensure it gets some vitamin A without over doing it. The prEformed sources can build up in the system leading to health issues which is why we only use it twice a month carefully.

In addition to this, D3 and vitamin A are antagonistic to each other and need to be in balance.

Calcium of course is needed for strong bones and muscles and some other things as well…so we want to make sure they get enough.

We eliminate the phos because there is already too much in many of the insects we use to feed the chameleons.

Hope this helps to explain it all a little better.

Thank you very much for this, this is very helpful. Im so happy ive found this forum and met you guys. I’ll definitely be following all your advice

 

[kinyonga]

This forum is a great place to learn proper information about chameleons!
We’re all passionate about chameleons!

 

[bbyoda]

You mean there should be 8-9 inches of space between chameleon and the lamp? But then sometimes my chameleon climbs the screen to bask. If the 8-9inch space is not possible are there ang options!
Sorry for the pics i always post but ive attached a reptisun uvb 5.0 will this do? This brand is the one thats readily available here

Yes that's the light. You can create that distance between Cham and light by raising the light off the screen. You can hang from the ceiling or create or buy a stand for it.

Chameleons do need more space than 18x18x36, minimum space for adults is 2x2x4 feet. That makes wrangling the lights much easier. But right now main concern to address is the lighting and supplements, as MBD and vitamin overdoses are deadly.

 

[Yaominator]

Yes that's the light. You can create that distance between Cham and light by raising the light off the screen. You can hang from the ceiling or create or buy a stand for it.

Chameleons do need more space than 18x18x36, minimum space for adults is 2x2x4 feet. That makes wrangling the lights much easier. But right now main concern to address is the lighting and supplements, as MBD and vitamin overdoses are deadly.

Thanks so much, yes will definitely be upgrading in the future, but as of now my chameleon is still at around 4-5 months. So i guess i still have a few years before an upgrade?

Ill definitely address the current concerns with my enclosure. Your tips are greatly appreciated!

 

[bbyoda]

Thanks so much, yes will definitely be upgrading in the future, but as of now my chameleon is still at around 4-5 months. So i guess i still have a few years before an upgrade?

Ill definitely address the current concerns with my enclosure. Your tips are greatly appreciated!

Veiled are full grown at one year old. I switched mine over at 7 months, was hoping to do so sooner but sadly he had coccidia so I needed to get him parasite free before going into a big boy cage. They are so much happier when they have that additional space! More secure, more willing to trust.

 

[Yaominator]

Veiled are full grown at one year old. I switched mine over at 7 months, was hoping to do so sooner but sadly he had coccidia so I needed to get him parasite free before going into a big boy cage. They are so much happier when they have that additional space! More secure, more willing to trust.

Oh man, i didnt really think that id would that early..

 

[CalamityCrow]

Oh man, i didnt really think that id would that early..

7ish mos is when I upgraded mine as well. I was sadly taken in by the "chameleon kit" that reptibreeze has. That kit will pretty much kill a cham, so I had a LOT of upgrading to do pretty much immediately. Proper lighting, water, heat, plant light, and cage were all things I needed to buy. Also supplements. It seems complicated at first but once you get everything dialed in it's wonderful! My lights and mister are on a timer and all I have to do is check on my boy visually daily, and feed him every other day, more or less. He's happy and healthy and I'm pleased with his setup.

 

[bbyoda]

Oh man, i didnt really think that id would that early..

Yeah they grow so fast!! That's because in the wild they have to grow and mate and lay eggs before the dry season comes. So it might be worth just doing the upgrade now so you don't buy two sets of lights. You have to figure out what you can afford and do at the moment. But know a larger cage is needed soon!

 

[Yaominator]

Do you guys use those smoke foggers?

 

[CalamityCrow]

Do you guys use those smoke foggers?

I don't, but I think I might get one. This blog post went up a couple days ago and it's got some interesting things to consider: https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/fogging-as-a-chameleon-hydration-method.2482/