Name that species
- Thread starter mlewis_24
- Start date
Will Hayward
New Member
First though: senegals. (Chamaeleo senegalensis)
You must keep them separate. They are very difficult to keep and breed, and also usually die of parasite overloads. These are a very bad chameleon for newer keepers.
If the tank in the background is what you are keeping them in, you need to ge think that ASAP.
You must keep them separate. They are very difficult to keep and breed, and also usually die of parasite overloads. These are a very bad chameleon for newer keepers.
If the tank in the background is what you are keeping them in, you need to ge think that ASAP.
Scrappy
New Member
They are most definitely Senegals. And as Will said they are very difficult to keep and maintain healthy in captivity. My first cham was a Senegal. Not tooting my own horn but I was able to maintain him for 2 1/2yrs, but he did eventually die and it was very sad. I would not recommend these guys to a new keeper. As far as I know there has never been successful breeding/hatching in captivity so every Senegal you see in a pet store is WC and usually infested with parasites. The reason you see so many in pet stores is because they are one of the slower chams and easily caught and imported/exported.
They are the same most any other cham in that you can and should not keep them together. They need their own space and should only be housed together for breeding purposes and seperated when the deed has been done. I can't say if they are both the same sex or not but you should be able to tell by their back feet as with other chams.
They are the same most any other cham in that you can and should not keep them together. They need their own space and should only be housed together for breeding purposes and seperated when the deed has been done. I can't say if they are both the same sex or not but you should be able to tell by their back feet as with other chams.
Will Hayward
New Member
I had forgot to mention that fecal samples should be analysed by a vet and appropriate drugs be given to rapidly treat the parasites with a slow effect medication. The drugs are meant to be used gradually over a long period of time, so you should start right away.
mlewis_24
New Member
Thank you Will & Scrappy. The cage in the background is my ball python's. I am taking the Chameleons to the vet this Friday so, hopefully I will be able to have a fecial sample for analysis. I had gone to rescue a king snake & the person had these two in a very small bird/sugar glider cage with no lights, no foliage, and no running water. I may be new to this but I know that those are a must have for Chameleons. So, I asked to take them too & here they are. I will go get separate and more efficient habitats for them tomorrow after work. I had called my local pet store & had them get a chameleon setup for me together for quick pick up & this is what they gave me:
flpanther
New Member
setup
Looks like thet gave you both a basking light for a heat source and a florescent tube for UVB, which is good. Make sure the tube is for UVB(like a reptisun 5.0). The problem most keepers have with glass aquariums is there is no drainage, so the frequent mistings/drippings will result in standing water which mixes with feces and results in a bacterial soup. Also, you have to remove everything and stress out the cham to keep the floor clean. There are all screen enclosures available with pvc bottoms that can be drilled for drainage and easily removed via a flip open door at the bottom for cleaning. You can also do a search on the enclosure forum and find plenty of ideas to build your own screen enclosure with built in drainage and water collection. Reptariums are another option, though I personally(and many others) don't like them, the zippers are troublesome, poor visibility, and hard to clean floor. I have kept chams in them sucessfully though.
A temp gun is a good investment to get the basking light positioned right. Don't forget supplements and a good gut-load for the prey items. See the recent thread in the food forum by MWheelock for a good supplement schedule.
Looks like thet gave you both a basking light for a heat source and a florescent tube for UVB, which is good. Make sure the tube is for UVB(like a reptisun 5.0). The problem most keepers have with glass aquariums is there is no drainage, so the frequent mistings/drippings will result in standing water which mixes with feces and results in a bacterial soup. Also, you have to remove everything and stress out the cham to keep the floor clean. There are all screen enclosures available with pvc bottoms that can be drilled for drainage and easily removed via a flip open door at the bottom for cleaning. You can also do a search on the enclosure forum and find plenty of ideas to build your own screen enclosure with built in drainage and water collection. Reptariums are another option, though I personally(and many others) don't like them, the zippers are troublesome, poor visibility, and hard to clean floor. I have kept chams in them sucessfully though.
A temp gun is a good investment to get the basking light positioned right. Don't forget supplements and a good gut-load for the prey items. See the recent thread in the food forum by MWheelock for a good supplement schedule.
