My Juvenile Veiled Not Eating

gjordan523

New Member
Last Thursday (8.8.2013) I bought a juvenile veiled chameleon. I've tried feeding him crickets but he seems 100% uninterested. I also try feeding him meal worms. I saw him attempt to eat one once, but it was too big (before I knew about that being longer than the width of the head rule). So I found mini mealworms and he might have possibly eaten 1 or it just escaped (I count them). He licked some carrot but didn't eat it and may have possibly eaten some spinach leaves or cucumber pieces. But I didn't see it. I try putting him in a separate enclosure so he can at least see the crickets but he just walks away. I watched a video of an owner feeding micro-crickets to their juv. and Jarvis doesn't do anything like that. He barely looks at them. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BRPYSbbIP24

I also understand that the humidity levels are undesirable. Does anyone have any advice how to keep them up and not dropping between mists?

If there are other things I must change, this is my first chameleon, please do not neglect the feeding problem. I know its been 5 days, but I already love Jarvis a ton. You can ask anyone. He's been all I've worked on for the last 5 days.

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - Veiled. Male possibly (has spurs on back feet but not front). Juvenile, possibly a few months or less. Had him for about 5 days.
Handling - I hold him about 3 times a day. He loves just sitting on my fingers while I sit and watch TV.
Feeding - I offer small crickets, mini mealworms, spinach leaves, collard greens, carrots, cucumber. I switch vegetables twice a day because they dry out. I feed him at about 11 every day and switch at about 5 at night. I give my crickets mashed carrots and coat my worms in calcium +d3.
Supplements - ZooMed Repti-Vitamin Calcium with d3. I use it every day because Jarvis will never eat anything. So Jarvis hasn't had any yet.
Watering - I mist the tank 3 times a day until the hydrometer is at about 70-75. Jarvis will drink water droplets off the wall if I put him on the ground near it.
Fecal Description - Half brown half white. No parasite testing.
History - The store associate just said that he was great and a sweet chameleon.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - Right now Jarvis is in a 10 gallon glass tank with screen top. I'm getting a 30x30x18 or 2'x2'x4' one this weekend.
Lighting - I use a basking light from about 11 am to 9 pm then switch it to a UV night light for the night time.
Temperature - The cage goes from 75 to 80 degrees. The lowest overnight temp is about 70. I have a thermometer on the bottom right of the tank and top left. (Opposite walls).
Humidity - When I spray the tank it goes to 70% but after a few hours it goes back down to 30. I consistently spray the tank. I have a hydrometer on the bottom right wall.
Plants - No live plants.
Placement - The cage is in our kitchen on the counter. The top of the cage is roughly 5 feet from the floor.
Location - Outside Baltimore, Maryland.


Thank you for any help.
 

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Tyaeda

Member
The substrate and night light are really bad ideas.

The mat will harbor bacteria. The bottom should be bare. Most people have some sort of drainage so they can remove excess water, and keep things clean. Glad you're getting a screened cage, because they allow for good ventilation, and a better temp range.

The night light is bad. Chams can see colour, and have a light detector on their heads, so even when he's sleeping, it can bother him. Also, chameleons prefer a 10 degree drop in temperature at night. He'll need a basking light and a uvb light on during the day.

When he's in the bigger cage, try hand or cup feeding. It will be easier for him to eat, and you don't have to worry about looking for any left overs. Best of all, he'll learn to associate you to food! :)

They have awesome advice in the resource section here: https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/chameleons/
 

carol5208

Chameleon Enthusiast
Males only have spurs on their back feet and not the front. The care sheet you have been given shouldl answer all of your questions and will tell you what you need to do to provide and healthy environment for your chameleon. There are quite a few changes you need to make, especially on the lighting
 

gjordan523

New Member
The substrate and night light are really bad ideas.

The mat will harbor bacteria. The bottom should be bare. Most people have some sort of drainage so they can remove excess water, and keep things clean. Glad you're getting a screened cage, because they allow for good ventilation, and a better temp range.

The night light is bad. Chams can see colour, and have a light detector on their heads, so even when he's sleeping, it can bother him. Also, chameleons prefer a 10 degree drop in temperature at night. He'll need a basking light and a uvb light on during the day.

When he's in the bigger cage, try hand or cup feeding. It will be easier for him to eat, and you don't have to worry about looking for any left overs. Best of all, he'll learn to associate you to food! :)

They have awesome advice in the resource section here: https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/chameleons/

Thank you! I've taken away the UV night light, got a UVB tube light, he's now in a screen cage with a bare bottom and a real plant. He's eaten small amounts, but it's food. So it's something.
 

kj9

New Member
Also, don't worry about the humidity drop - that's how it's supposed to be. You don't need to maintain super high humidity levels, rather let them rise and fall throughout the day.

Edit: Don't use calcium with D3 everyday. Calcium without D3 should be used daily for dusting, Calcium with D3 should only be used twice a month.

Hope this helps!
 
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