So she does have sunken eyes I read about it but I wasn’t sure omg. I’ve been spraying her a lot a little mist on her as well. She didn’t have the right lighting he was using a freaking Regular watt bulb. I was gonna try the shore chamber but I’ve only had her for a day I don’t want to stress her out in her new environment. Idk what to do please someone help.
She very well could be 2 years old. Females are much smaller then males. And she looks malnourished. I would be happy to help you but can you fill out this form in detail so I know what you have and know?
Thank you so much for everything I’m gonna do all this just have her a shower chamber for 30 mins she loves it she drank Some water moving around more and didn’t even want to get out lol.@Ksmart23 Ok hun I am going to cover every aspect. It will be a lot of information. But I want to make sure you buy the right stuff for her so you do not waste your money and I want to make sure you have the correct information right from the start. My feedback will be in red bold. Let us know what questions you have.
• Veiled chameleon
•I’ve only took her out the cage once since I had her for two minutes and out her back only had for one day.
•I’ve had her for a day so from what I seen she’s only been eating meal worms. I don’t think he’s Been gut loading her Mealworms are awful for nutritional value. See feeder image at the bottom. and Gutload image. Also since she is a female she will not be over fed. This directly impacts her egg production along with her temps. So she should be eating 3-4 feeders 3 days a week that are well gutloaded.
•I have been working but I’m going to get calcium dust today and some crickets. He had no supplements to give me so I assume he wasn’t using them. You need repticalcium WITHOUT D3 and Reptivite WITH D3. You would give the Reptivite every other week at one feeding for a total of 2 times a month. At all other feedings she would get reptical without D3. All feeders should be lightly dusted and immediately fed in the morning so she has all day to digest. I have included direct links so you know exactly what to buy.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Calcium-Without-Vitamin/dp/B005FTMGYO/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1WYNE73HWEOTL&dchild=1&keywords=repti+calcium+without+d3&qid=1593531139&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=repticalcium,aps,418&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQB6A/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3L7LPLGSVYBUU&dchild=1&keywords=reptivite+with+d3&qid=1593531171&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=Reptivite+with+,aps,203&sr=8-1
•I have a spray bottle I mist down the whole cage at least 10-20 times a day I wake out my sleep to mist. Even apart her a little bit directly don’t want to stress her. Ok no need to wake up and mist her. Get your sleep because she is. So you want to mist about 2-4 times a day for about 2 minutes each time and you do not want to spray her directly just all her plants. If she walks into the spray that is fine but on her terms only. She may want to clean her eyes.
I mistking automatic misting system is more convenient but if you are home and have the ability to hand spray then you can continue doing that. They make pressurized spray bottles for reptiles that are easier on the hands.
•from the feces I seen in the enclosure before I cleaned it looks good size brown feces with a little white also don’t know how old they are also. Are you seeing yellow in the urate (white part that is separate from the fecal) The urate is one way to see how her hydration is. White means hydrated. A urate that is more then 50% yellow or orange is dehydrated.
I recommend getting a fecal done at a vet to make sure she is not carrying a parasite load. You should be able to drop the fresh fecal off and them run the test. If it comes back positive then they would need to see her for treatment.
•She definitely just wasn’t being attended to like a chameleon should.
•have a screen cage idk specs but it’s pretty big. Measure the height and width and that will tell us the size.
•Going to buy some UVB lights today. You want a linear T5HO fixture and a 5.0 UVB bulb. Then basking level (the highest place she can get to under the light should be 9 inches below the fixture sitting directly on the top of the cage. You may not be able to get this locally and may have to order it most places like petco only have the T8 UVB and I would not get that for her.
•it’s a steady 85-81 F I have a thermometer wrapped around the tree branch Ok for her temps you want them 79-80 max. Temps effect egg production so if they are higher she will produce more eggs which can be hard on them. You can either drop the wattage of the bulb or raise the fixture off the cage.
• all fake plants Live plants are a much better See this link for Veiled tested plants. https://chameleonacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Chameleon-Plants-122819.pdf
•no fans no vents and she’s pretty high up
• Connecticut
You need a hygrometer as well so you know the humidity levels. You can get a reptile fogger like this to use at night when the lights are off say from 12-5am this will also help with her hydration. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V39ZYJB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vplXDb9GMSZDZ
Information on egg laying:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/laying-bin-set-up-educational-video.77225/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/egg-laying-and-the-laying-bin.345/
Accurate info and Product links for things I like:
https://chameleonacademy.com/
https://www.chameleonbreeder.com/
https://www.youtube.com/c/NeptunetheChameleon?sub_confirmation=1
www.dragonstrand.com
https://tkchameleons.com/collections/accessories/products/shooting-gallery
View attachment 270898View attachment 270899
Here are pics of her enclosure I’m thinking the basking spot is to close to the lamp but that’s how he had it thinking it’s drying her out because how close it is opinions ??
Wow she's skinny. years of just mealworms can probably do something to a chameleon. She dosent look healthy at all I agree with everything @Beman said
How does this look ?@Ksmart23 Ok hun I am going to cover every aspect. It will be a lot of information. But I want to make sure you buy the right stuff for her so you do not waste your money and I want to make sure you have the correct information right from the start. My feedback will be in red bold. Let us know what questions you have.
• Veiled chameleon
•I’ve only took her out the cage once since I had her for two minutes and out her back only had for one day.
•I’ve had her for a day so from what I seen she’s only been eating meal worms. I don’t think he’s Been gut loading her Mealworms are awful for nutritional value. See feeder image at the bottom. and Gutload image. Also since she is a female she will not be over fed. This directly impacts her egg production along with her temps. So she should be eating 3-4 feeders 3 days a week that are well gutloaded.
•I have been working but I’m going to get calcium dust today and some crickets. He had no supplements to give me so I assume he wasn’t using them. You need repticalcium WITHOUT D3 and Reptivite WITH D3. You would give the Reptivite every other week at one feeding for a total of 2 times a month. At all other feedings she would get reptical without D3. All feeders should be lightly dusted and immediately fed in the morning so she has all day to digest. I have included direct links so you know exactly what to buy.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Calcium-Without-Vitamin/dp/B005FTMGYO/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1WYNE73HWEOTL&dchild=1&keywords=repti+calcium+without+d3&qid=1593531139&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=repticalcium,aps,418&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQB6A/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3L7LPLGSVYBUU&dchild=1&keywords=reptivite+with+d3&qid=1593531171&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=Reptivite+with+,aps,203&sr=8-1
•I have a spray bottle I mist down the whole cage at least 10-20 times a day I wake out my sleep to mist. Even apart her a little bit directly don’t want to stress her. Ok no need to wake up and mist her. Get your sleep because she is. So you want to mist about 2-4 times a day for about 2 minutes each time and you do not want to spray her directly just all her plants. If she walks into the spray that is fine but on her terms only. She may want to clean her eyes.
I mistking automatic misting system is more convenient but if you are home and have the ability to hand spray then you can continue doing that. They make pressurized spray bottles for reptiles that are easier on the hands.
•from the feces I seen in the enclosure before I cleaned it looks good size brown feces with a little white also don’t know how old they are also. Are you seeing yellow in the urate (white part that is separate from the fecal) The urate is one way to see how her hydration is. White means hydrated. A urate that is more then 50% yellow or orange is dehydrated.
I recommend getting a fecal done at a vet to make sure she is not carrying a parasite load. You should be able to drop the fresh fecal off and them run the test. If it comes back positive then they would need to see her for treatment.
•She definitely just wasn’t being attended to like a chameleon should.
•have a screen cage idk specs but it’s pretty big. Measure the height and width and that will tell us the size.
•Going to buy some UVB lights today. You want a linear T5HO fixture and a 5.0 UVB bulb. Then basking level (the highest place she can get to under the light should be 9 inches below the fixture sitting directly on the top of the cage. You may not be able to get this locally and may have to order it most places like petco only have the T8 UVB and I would not get that for her.
•it’s a steady 85-81 F I have a thermometer wrapped around the tree branch Ok for her temps you want them 79-80 max. Temps effect egg production so if they are higher she will produce more eggs which can be hard on them. You can either drop the wattage of the bulb or raise the fixture off the cage.
• all fake plants Live plants are a much better See this link for Veiled tested plants. https://chameleonacademy.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Chameleon-Plants-122819.pdf
•no fans no vents and she’s pretty high up
• Connecticut
You need a hygrometer as well so you know the humidity levels. You can get a reptile fogger like this to use at night when the lights are off say from 12-5am this will also help with her hydration. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V39ZYJB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vplXDb9GMSZDZ
Information on egg laying:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/laying-bin-set-up-educational-video.77225/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/egg-laying-and-the-laying-bin.345/
Accurate info and Product links for things I like:
https://chameleonacademy.com/
https://www.chameleonbreeder.com/
https://www.youtube.com/c/NeptunetheChameleon?sub_confirmation=1
www.dragonstrand.com
https://tkchameleons.com/collections/accessories/products/shooting-gallery
View attachment 270898View attachment 270899
Yea it’s really sad but I’m trying my best. Definitely don’t have vet money so I’m gonna do what I can.
Dith that UVB Bulb
Which one should I get on amazon ?
I think you will hate that fogger because it is a bottom fill. You have to remove the top chamber and disconnect the fog line. the first one I gave you in the feedback form is better because it is a top fill. Look at this one it is on sale right now https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V39ZYJB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vplXDb9GMSZDZ
I do recommend a fecal for her... She very well could be carrying a parasite load which can contribute to her frail body. Although malnurishment is very likely as well.
Fecals are relatively low cost (about $40 at my local VCA) and you do not have to stress out the chameleon by taking her too. You can just put the poo in a baggie and take it to your vet.
