Regarding drinking...the best way I know to get a veiled to drink is by dripping water on its nose until it drinks (at the rate of on drop every second or so). If you persevere it should drink. You need to do it slowly so that it won't aspirate water (get it in its lungs).
You keep asking questions in different threads but you don't seem to finish off the threads...so maybe this will help.
You need to provide your chameleon with temperatures that will help it digest its food. (at least in the low 80'sF). This indirectly plays a part in nutrient absorption.
Its important to provide your chameleon with a UVB source...either the appropriate bulb or direct sunlight. Neither should pass through glass or plastic. The most often recommended UVB light is the Repti-sun 5.0 long linear fluorescent tube light. Some compacts, spirals and even some long tube lights can cause health issues but the Repti-sun 5.0 has a good reputation.
Since many/most of the insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phos. its important to dust with a phos.-free calcium powder at most feedings to make up for it.
I dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to problems. I leave the chameleon to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB. UVB from the light or sun will not build up in the system as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.
I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene (prOformed) sources of vitamin A will not build up in the system but its controversial as to whether all/any chameleons can convert it...so some people give a little prEformed vitamin A once in a while. Excess prEformed vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job so its important not to overdo it.
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A area all important players in bone health and need to be in balance. You need to look at what you supplement with, what you feed to the chameleon and what you feed to the insects when you are trying to balance them.
Gutloading/feeding the insects a nutritious diet is important too. I give crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms a wide variety of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, parsley, escarole, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, etc.).
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You said you are using reptocal with D3...I don't remember if it contained prEformed vitamin A...but if it is you shouldn't use it too often because you said it also has D3 in it. You should get another calcium product to use most of the times, as described above.
You said you were using a Day glo or something like that for the light. I don't think those bulbs give off UVB so its not letting your chameleon produce D3 so it won't be able to use the calcium in its body to keep its bones strong, etc....unless you have been giving it a enough D3 supplement.
You said you were using calcisand and that at one point you were using rocks but they got mold growing on them. Calcisand can cause impactions..and although you said you didn't want to waste the calcisand and that it listed the reptiles it could be used for....it may well cause your chameleon's death if it ends up impacted. The best substrate IMHO is no substrate at all.
You don't need a night source of heat unless the temperature in the room is in the low 60's.
I hope this helps!
