my chameleon is purple after shedding, is she okay?

[Bayphrie]

Hello everyone, please don’t judge me i am new to this and i did my research and it said this is okay but i still want to make sure this is okay and my chameleon is not dying but this is how she looks like after shedding, please tell me she’s not dying (also she chooses to be that close to the light i can’t pry her off of there)

 

[MissSkittles]

Hello everyone, please don’t judge me i am new to this and i did my research and it said this is okay but i still want to make sure this is okay and my chameleon is not dying but this is how she looks like after shedding, please tell me she’s not dying (also she chooses to be that close to the light i can’t pry her off of there)

Hi and welcome! No judgement here…we all start at the beginning. I am going to guess that you have the ReptiBreeze chameleon kit…yes? To be the bearer of bad news, there is little that is actually useful for a chameleon in that kit and far too many people are tricked into buying it. Besides it’s many other issues, the biggest problem is the uvb is inadequate and the only way for your pretty girl to get any, is to be that close. Any farther away than just a few inches and there’s zero uvb. However, being so close puts her at very high risk for burns. The correct uvb is a T5 linear fixture with either an Arcadia 6% or ReptiSun 5.0 uvb bulb. Then she is able to have a basking area which is about 8-9” below the lights and is getting adequate uvb and almost zero risk for burns. This is the correct UVB fixture and comes with the first bulb (you would choose the 6% strength). https://www.lightyourreptiles.com/p...l?searchid=139529&search_query=Arcadia+pro+T5 **I do need to put in a word of caution here about buying cheaper brands of uvb - while the fixtures may be ok, the bulbs are not and are unreliable in their levels of uvb output. Your girl is likely that color as she’s trying hard to absorb the much needed uvb. With the correct set up, she will become a beautiful green lady.
One of the only decent things about the kit is the supplements it includes. You’ll need to use the calcium without D3 lightly dusted at every feeding. Then for one feeding every other week, you will use the ReptiVite with D3 (this is a good multivitamin/D3 combo).
Uvb and supplements are perhaps the most important aspects of keeping a chameleon (or most reptiles) healthy and prevent metabolic bone disease. You don’t say where you got your info from, but there’s a tremendous amount of bad and outdated info about chameleons and unfortunately, pet stores often give bad info. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ This is the correct husbandry and it goes over everything. Another great and correct source is Neptune the chameleon on YouTube. The forum will help you get everything correct and is an amazing resource to help you and your sweet/spicy girl to enjoy many years together.
So, your first step to giving your girl a good long and healthy life is to order the correct uvb. If I am wrong about you having the chameleon kit, your next step is to buy the correct supplements, however, instead of ReptiVite with D3, but Repashy calcium Plus LoD (pic of Jackson’s cham on the label). Repashy Supercal NoD is a great calcium too if you need one. I’ll be back a bit later if no one else comments on next steps.

 

[MissSkittles]

Back to give you a bit more info. Provided I don’t get called away by my job, I’ll give you a quick run down of husbandry basics for a female veiled.
Minimum enclosure size is 2x2x4’, or the equivalent of an XL ReptiBreeze.
Basking temp no higher than 80F. No heat needed at night provided temps are above around 60. Cool nights are desired.
Daytime humidity between 30-50%.
If temps at night are below at least 68F, you can run a fogger/humidifier and boost humidity all the way. (Adds to hydration status)
No daytime fogging - high heat plus high humidity greatly increases risks for respiratory infection.
Provide plenty of little ‘roads’ for her with natural branches or vines. Varied diameter is best to fully exercise little mitten feet muscles.
Plenty of safe, clean and live plants. Our green girls from Yemen like to eat their plants. Fake plants pose a serious impaction hazard if eaten. Pothos is a must and keep propagating more from clippings.
Provide hydration thru misting/spraying water on the plant leaves for at least 2 minutes, twice a day - right before lights go on and off. If needed, can add additional 1 minute spraying mid day or use a dripper for 15-20 minutes.
Look to the urate (white part of poos) to determine hydration. All white/cream colored is perfect. Ok to have a bit of yellow or orange on one end, but if all yellow/orange, is sign of dehydration.
Always is best to have a fecal check for parasites. Vet visit required for this.
Feed a variety of live insects of appropriate size. If it’s larger than the space between her eyes, it’s too big.
Make sure to feed your bugs well. Healthy bugs are more nutritious for your cutie. Orange cubes and gel pots aren’t adequate.
She will produce eggs, regardless of if she’s even aware boys exist.
Don’t overfeed! The number of eggs she produces (when mature) directly relates to how much she is fed.
Read my blog on specifics related to egg production and laying. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/veiled-chameleon-laying-101.2488/
Our veiled ladies tend to be quite sassy, but you’ll still want to work on building and maintaining trust with her. Great blog on doing that here. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
Keep asking questions, keep learning. Share your progress and pics often…we love seeing each other’s chameleons and it is truly wonderful to see how much new keepers grow.
Here are some graphics that should help.

 

[Bayphrie]

Hi and welcome! No judgement here…we all start at the beginning. I am going to guess that you have the ReptiBreeze chameleon kit…yes? To be the bearer of bad news, there is little that is actually useful for a chameleon in that kit and far too many people are tricked into buying it. Besides it’s many other issues, the biggest problem is the uvb is inadequate and the only way for your pretty girl to get any, is to be that close. Any farther away than just a few inches and there’s zero uvb. However, being so close puts her at very high risk for burns. The correct uvb is a T5 linear fixture with either an Arcadia 6% or ReptiSun 5.0 uvb bulb. Then she is able to have a basking area which is about 8-9” below the lights and is getting adequate uvb and almost zero risk for burns. This is the correct UVB fixture and comes with the first bulb (you would choose the 6% strength). https://www.lightyourreptiles.com/p...l?searchid=139529&search_query=Arcadia+pro+T5 **I do need to put in a word of caution here about buying cheaper brands of uvb - while the fixtures may be ok, the bulbs are not and are unreliable in their levels of uvb output. Your girl is likely that color as she’s trying hard to absorb the much needed uvb. With the correct set up, she will become a beautiful green lady.
One of the only decent things about the kit is the supplements it includes. You’ll need to use the calcium without D3 lightly dusted at every feeding. Then for one feeding every other week, you will use the ReptiVite with D3 (this is a good multivitamin/D3 combo).
Uvb and supplements are perhaps the most important aspects of keeping a chameleon (or most reptiles) healthy and prevent metabolic bone disease. You don’t say where you got your info from, but there’s a tremendous amount of bad and outdated info about chameleons and unfortunately, pet stores often give bad info. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ This is the correct husbandry and it goes over everything. Another great and correct source is Neptune the chameleon on YouTube. The forum will help you get everything correct and is an amazing resource to help you and your sweet/spicy girl to enjoy many years together.
So, your first step to giving your girl a good long and healthy life is to order the correct uvb. If I am wrong about you having the chameleon kit, your next step is to buy the correct supplements, however, instead of ReptiVite with D3, but Repashy calcium Plus LoD (pic of Jackson’s cham on the label). Repashy Supercal NoD is a great calcium too if you need one. I’ll be back a bit later if no one else comments on next steps.

Thank you!! i’ll buy the uvb right now!! i always put calcium in her diet so i got that down right! also, if you know any, what kind of plants do u recommend i put in her home? preferably something she can climb? i know you said most stuff on the internet is outdated about chameleons so i want to check

 

[Bayphrie]

Back to give you a bit more info. Provided I don’t get called away by my job, I’ll give you a quick run down of husbandry basics for a female veiled.
Minimum enclosure size is 2x2x4’, or the equivalent of an XL ReptiBreeze.
Basking temp no higher than 80F. No heat needed at night provided temps are above around 60. Cool nights are desired.
Daytime humidity between 30-50%.
If temps at night are below at least 68F, you can run a fogger/humidifier and boost humidity all the way. (Adds to hydration status)
No daytime fogging - high heat plus high humidity greatly increases risks for respiratory infection.
Provide plenty of little ‘roads’ for her with natural branches or vines. Varied diameter is best to fully exercise little mitten feet muscles.
Plenty of safe, clean and live plants. Our green girls from Yemen like to eat their plants. Fake plants pose a serious impaction hazard if eaten. Pothos is a must and keep propagating more from clippings.
Provide hydration thru misting/spraying water on the plant leaves for at least 2 minutes, twice a day - right before lights go on and off. If needed, can add additional 1 minute spraying mid day or use a dripper for 15-20 minutes.
Look to the urate (white part of poos) to determine hydration. All white/cream colored is perfect. Ok to have a bit of yellow or orange on one end, but if all yellow/orange, is sign of dehydration.
Always is best to have a fecal check for parasites. Vet visit required for this.
Feed a variety of live insects of appropriate size. If it’s larger than the space between her eyes, it’s too big.
Make sure to feed your bugs well. Healthy bugs are more nutritious for your cutie. Orange cubes and gel pots aren’t adequate.
She will produce eggs, regardless of if she’s even aware boys exist.
Don’t overfeed! The number of eggs she produces (when mature) directly relates to how much she is fed.
Read my blog on specifics related to egg production and laying. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/veiled-chameleon-laying-101.2488/
Our veiled ladies tend to be quite sassy, but you’ll still want to work on building and maintaining trust with her. Great blog on doing that here. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
Keep asking questions, keep learning. Share your progress and pics often…we love seeing each other’s chameleons and it is truly wonderful to see how much new keepers grow.
Here are some graphics that should help.
View attachment 368597View attachment 368598View attachment 368599View attachment 368601View attachment 368602

oh i just saw this after my reply! sorry im still getting the hang of this website thank you SO MUCH for all this information theres a lot that i learned! and ill post an updated pic of her home when i buy everything for her!!

 

[MissSkittles]

So glad you returned and got all the info. I am a terrible mother hen and especially when it comes to our veiled girls. Because of their ability to produce massive numbers of eggs and then be at high risk for complications because of that, it’s extra important to make sure you have your husbandry as close to perfect as you can. If you have any questions, don’t be shy.