My Chamaeleo Chamaeleon is sick
- Thread starter Betta Lover
- Start date
Betta Lover
New Member
I do pu the light out but he didn't sleep tell now maybe just like 1 hour in 45 hour
.
Betta Lover
New Member
I gave him Vitamin A yesterday & he slept but too late, he is better today but his left eye looks better, moving better than yesterday but still have problem can't walk well, his grip is so strong it hurts, but he is walking like drunk.
I couldn't find Chicken baby food there is many things fruits food and Veggies for babies, but they stopped to make chicken & meat food, i think I'll try the liver, I'll take him to another Vet tomorrow hope he will start eating soon.
Forgot to say that his poop, is so green with yellow & looks loose.
I couldn't find Chicken baby food there is many things fruits food and Veggies for babies, but they stopped to make chicken & meat food, i think I'll try the liver, I'll take him to another Vet tomorrow hope he will start eating soon.
Forgot to say that his poop, is so green with yellow & looks loose.
Betta Lover
New Member
I thought he is recovering from the disease he had but now i think he is worse, here some pictures for him he didn't eat now for over than 2 weeks, but he is drinking well.
Another thing, How much of calcium D3 & Vitamin A should i give him? i have Calcium, tablets for human every tablet contain 600 mg Calcium, & 400 IU D3
Another thing, How much of calcium D3 & Vitamin A should i give him? i have Calcium, tablets for human every tablet contain 600 mg Calcium, & 400 IU D3
And Vitamin A cap. every cap contain 50000 IU
Here is the photo
and please take a look at this pics for the Cham something on his face and his tail & back legs swelling
ShortStack
New Member
It looks like there are sooo many things wrong with the husbandry here. Direct vit A like that could be toxic to the chameleon.
Te grasshoppers may have has pesticide - causing some type of system failure. They were probably never dusted as well with vitamins. If I recall there is a type of grasshopper or katydid that are toxic. It's one of the two ...I may be wrong.
He looks as if he has burns on his face. Him not having a correct UVB bulb could have accelerated the problem.
Put pedialite in his water - very small amount. This will help slightly with maybe giving him energy.
Te grasshoppers may have has pesticide - causing some type of system failure. They were probably never dusted as well with vitamins. If I recall there is a type of grasshopper or katydid that are toxic. It's one of the two ...I may be wrong.
He looks as if he has burns on his face. Him not having a correct UVB bulb could have accelerated the problem.
Put pedialite in his water - very small amount. This will help slightly with maybe giving him energy.
Betta Lover
New Member
What is pedialite??
Should i stop Vit A & Calcium D3????????
the problem is i don't think he exceed Vit A & D3 coz he is not eating for more than 2 weeks & he is only on medicine & water.
that's why i wanted to know the amount of this supplements per day for this condition.
Should i stop Vit A & Calcium D3????????
the problem is i don't think he exceed Vit A & D3 coz he is not eating for more than 2 weeks & he is only on medicine & water.
that's why i wanted to know the amount of this supplements per day for this condition.
ShortStack
New Member
there are specific reptile vitamins. You should really stick to using those so you do not over dose.
pedialite is the stuff they give babies who are losing electrolytes from having diahrrea or other eating issues.
pedialite is the stuff they give babies who are losing electrolytes from having diahrrea or other eating issues.
Betta Lover
New Member
The problem here that's there is no reptile supplements,
maybe i could find this in other name in any pharmacy, another thing when he walk up today he was white like no color whats that mean????
maybe i could find this in other name in any pharmacy, another thing when he walk up today he was white like no color whats that mean????
Why can't you feed him a bit of ground up chicken instead of the chicken liver? The liver likely has prEformed vitamin A in it and may build up in the chameleon's system. They aren't meat eaters anyhow and this should only be temporary. You need to find a safe source of insects.
His lack of color could be overheating or it could be that way because he's sick.
If you can't supply the things a chameleon needs, then when this one is gone, I would suggest you don't buy/get another one.
His lack of color could be overheating or it could be that way because he's sick.
If you can't supply the things a chameleon needs, then when this one is gone, I would suggest you don't buy/get another one.
ShortStack
New Member
The pet store has NO reptile vitamins ? At all?
There is no other name. Just Pedialite.
There is no other name. Just Pedialite.
Jakedn
New Member
Your vet is right in saying that food is not of a huge concern... If you are to feed him grind up some insects and feed him that. Do not feed him chicken livers.
Get him out for some real sunlight when temperatures permit it.
Rinse his eye with saline regularly, use the medicines your vet prescribed for it as well.
And DONT STRESS HIM OUT, he is sick, stress makes him increasingly vulnerable to his sickness.
Put him on a non-toxic plant and mist him for a very long time until he no longer wants water.
Get him out for some real sunlight when temperatures permit it.
Rinse his eye with saline regularly, use the medicines your vet prescribed for it as well.
And DONT STRESS HIM OUT, he is sick, stress makes him increasingly vulnerable to his sickness.
Put him on a non-toxic plant and mist him for a very long time until he no longer wants water.
Betta Lover
New Member
now he is sleeping well when i turnoff the lights, but his color not green as he sleeping its more close to white like he is losing his color, when i put him in light his patterns change but still not right and he change his color to black dots when he stressed, i handle him so easy in fact he run to my hand when i take him to light in morning, his grip is so strong really more than be4 some times it hurts and he is walking better than last two days moving his eyes better, but his stomach look like swell in time he eat nothing how could this come and is little bet heavy.
about feeding can i give him fly's in his mouth by my self i can do that i any one recommend it for me.
yesterday i got another Vet number he is expert with reptiles, but he will arrive tomorrow from his trip, i will take him to this Vet
about feeding can i give him fly's in his mouth by my self i can do that i any one recommend it for me.
yesterday i got another Vet number he is expert with reptiles, but he will arrive tomorrow from his trip, i will take him to this Vet
Betta Lover
New Member
he is not on medicine now it only last for 5 days, and then the Vet only told me to give him multi Vit
IMHO if you want to be able to keep chameleons successfully where you are you need to be able to find a good "clean" source of insects that are not likely to be carrying a lot of bacteria, parasites and aren't toxic to the chameleon.
You need to supplement/dust the insects properly just before feeding them to the chameleon and to gutload/feed them a nutritious diet if you are keeping them once you catch them or if you breed some.
Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
You need to supplement/dust the insects properly just before feeding them to the chameleon and to gutload/feed them a nutritious diet if you are keeping them once you catch them or if you breed some.
Here's some information I hope will help you with things like supplements, gutloading, etc....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
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