Mouth rot?

daniel.s

Member
Hello,

Unfortunately i only attend this forum when my chameleon is not looking well but yeah here i am again

The last week i noticed that he could nog catch his own food. When he sees a cricket he goes for it but is too slow or just does not shoot his tongue. I thought he was tired and hungry so i gave him crickets using wooden forceps and he ate it normally but now he is not wanting to eat. Also i noticed that his mouth was a bit off as you can see in the photo.
I brought some extra vitamins and a new and better uvb light but that will get here tomorrow because i read that it might be a bad uvb lamp. I also am planning to call a vet that i read that he knows about reptiles etc.
I also tried to "force" him to eat and drink but he did not want to.

Also today when i came home i noticed a bubble on his head and that his eye was closed, i think that his eye is closed because i brought the only uvb lamp that my local pet store had to have someting till the new one arrives.
Anyone that can tell me what this is and what i am doing wrong?

Chameleon Info:(copied form the first post cause not that much changed)
Your Chameleon - he is a male veiled chameleon i got him arround 2 years now so he would be 2,5 years old
Handling - sinds i got him i handeld him poorty because he does not like attention that much
Feeding - He is now eating house crickets and sometimes mealworms(1 time a month as an extra)
Supplements - Calcium Sticky Toungue Farms
Watering - I spray his terrarium 2/3 times a day with a hand spray.
History - when i got him was not the easiest chameleon, that made it not easy being my first one, he had his little problems that i mentioned on my profile. For the past year or so he was healthy and was moving and all but the last week he started to look very sick.
Cage Info: Reptibreeze 60x60x120(cm) its a screen cage, i have a Arcadia 23 watt day light lamp 7% UVB and a Arcadia basking light 100 watt (his basking spot is arround 30-32 °C, my lighting schedule is a bit of but i do my best to start at 9-10am and turn it off at 9-10pm‎. my temerature in my room is usually arround 20°C‎ my humidity is arround 40-60% i live in the Netherlands so the temperature is pretty hard to keep it arround 20°C‎ but the humidity is ~50% all the time.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210603_185623__01.jpg
    IMG_20210603_185623__01.jpg
    140.5 KB · Views: 48
  • IMG_20210603_185636__01.jpg
    IMG_20210603_185636__01.jpg
    214 KB · Views: 51

Beman

Chameleon Enthusiast
Without even looking through all your husbandry. This boy has some serious swelling going on. You need a Chameleon vet, someone that actually has experience with reptiles at the very least.

Jaw is swollen, eye, and the tip of his nose should not be puffy like that. His casque is very sunk in? Is that always the way it is?
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
Just some husbandry comments and questions, I agree with going to a vet:
-Which Sticky Tongue Farms calcium do you use, and do you use the Miner-All gutload with it?
-You want the T5HO 6% Arcadia UVB bulb, the 7% is for crepuscular species and doesn't come long enough.
-How far away is your UVB bulb from his basking branch?
-His basking temp, which needs to be measured with a digital thermometer with a probe, with the probe placed where the top of his back is when he's on his basking branch, should be 26-29*C. Most male veiled keepers basking temps are 27-28*C.
-His humidity levels should be 30-50% during the day, preferably on the lower end of that. At night, if it's at or below 18*C, and there's proper airflow, the humidity can go up to 100%
 

daniel.s

Member
Without even looking through all your husbandry. This boy has some serious swelling going on. You need a Chameleon vet, someone that actually has experience with reptiles at the very least.

Jaw is swollen, eye, and the tip of his nose should not be puffy like that. His casque is very sunk in? Is that always the way it i
Thank you for the reply.
I didn't notice a difference with his casque. Im going to call the vet now and see what he recommends to do.
 

daniel.s

Member
Just some husbandry comments and questions, I agree with going to a vet:
-Which Sticky Tongue Farms calcium do you use, and do you use the Miner-All gutload with it?
-You want the T5HO 6% Arcadia UVB bulb, the 7% is for crepuscular species and doesn't come long enough.
-How far away is your UVB bulb from his basking branch?
-His basking temp, which needs to be measured with a digital thermometer with a probe, with the probe placed where the top of his back is when he's on his basking branch, should be 26-29*C. Most male veiled keepers basking temps are 27-28*C.
-His humidity levels should be 30-50% during the day, preferably on the lower end of that. At night, if it's at or below 18*C, and there's proper airflow, the humidity can go up to 100%
Thank you for the reply.

I use a red Sticky Tongue Farms with miner- all without d-3.
I now have a uvb light that is not good for him, but a Arcadia 12% TL is on the way. That was recommended to me before.
Before that he always had a 7% bulb.
Both the uvb and basking light are roughly the same distance from his basking spot. Roughly 15cm.
Humidity is a thing that is hard to get low because of the high humidity where i live.
He is close to the window and its alsways a bit open so he has good airflow.
 

Sonny13

Chameleon Enthusiast
my lighting schedule is a bit of but i do my best to start at 9-10am and turn it off at 9-10pm‎.
Just invest for a digital timer, you can it at every hardware story for €5 till €8, that would relief you from your time stress and gives your chameleon regular time sheet.

i have a Arcadia 23 watt day light lamp 7% UVB and a Arcadia basking light 100 watt
I´m using the Arcadia T5HO 6% UVB bulb 24 watt together with the Arcadia Deep heat projector 50 watt, that´s more then sufficient, 100 watt is overkill and probably too warm for him. You can it from terramania.nl or through reptielenkosmos.de (there it´s way cheaper then in the Netherlands).

He is close to the window and its alsways a bit open so he has good airflow.
Be careful for a draft, this can cause always several illnesses.

He is now eating house crickets and sometimes mealworms(1 time a month as an extra)
Try to give him more variety, we can buy all kinds feeders in the Netherlands, and mealworms are last feeders you wanna give them. Try bugsonline.eu, they offer fast delivery and all kind of different feeders.

I spray his terrarium 2/3 times a day with a hand spray.
You spray during daytime? That´s one reason why humidity doesn´t drop. Best is to mist before or just after lights turn on and just after they go off, when temperatures are dropping.

You need a Chameleon vet, someone that actually has experience with reptiles at the very least.
Can´t agree more and don´t from which part of the Netherlands you´re from, however here´s list of good reptile vets throughout the country, http://www.de-kvn.nl/content/dierenartsen
 

daniel.s

Member
Just invest for a digital timer, you can it at every hardware story for €5 till €8, that would relief you from your time stress and gives your chameleon regular time sheet.


I´m using the Arcadia T5HO 6% UVB bulb 24 watt together with the Arcadia Deep heat projector 50 watt, that´s more then sufficient, 100 watt is overkill and probably too warm for him. You can it from terramania.nl or through reptielenkosmos.de (there it´s way cheaper then in the Netherlands).


Be careful for a draft, this can cause always several illnesses.


Try to give him more variety, we can buy all kinds feeders in the Netherlands, and mealworms are last feeders you wanna give them. Try bugsonline.eu, they offer fast delivery and all kind of different feeders.


You spray during daytime? That´s one reason why humidity doesn´t drop. Best is to mist before or just after lights turn on and just after they go off, when temperatures are dropping.


Can´t agree more and don´t from which part of the Netherlands you´re from, however here´s list of good reptile vets throughout the country, http://www.de-kvn.nl/content/dierenartsen
Thank you for the reply.

I will go to a shop on the way home to buy a timer for him, with the lights im going to order a 6% uvb.
I dont think draft is a big problem cause my door is always closed and the window is like 5% open. I have tried various other food for him but he just does not want to eat anything else. And the humidity is just always arround 50 to 60% i live close to the sea and especially now after it rained for a week straight and now its getting to 26°c the humidity is just higher than usual. I called a vet this morning but they told me that their reptile vet does not work there anymore so im going to call an other when i get home. Im afraid that i cannot take him there cause it is at least a one hour drive and i dont know if he can be that long in a car.
 

Sonny13

Chameleon Enthusiast
And the humidity is just always arround 50 to 60% i live close to the sea and especially now after it rained for a week straight and now its getting to 26°c the humidity is just higher than usual.
Ahh, check!!

Im afraid that i cannot take him there cause it is at least a one hour drive and i dont know if he can be that long in a car.
Most important is that he goes to a vet. One hour driving ain´t a problem. If someone could drive you and you got big plant or branch where you can put one during the ride, he might even enjoy it.

This is how we picked-up our boy from the store, it was half an hour drive

image7.jpeg


I dont think draft is a big problem cause my door is always closed and the window is like 5% open
Not saying it is, just to keep it in mind.

I will go to a shop on the way home to buy a timer for him, with the lights im going to order a 6% uvb.
Splendid (y)
 

ERKleRose

Chameleon Enthusiast
With the Sticky Tongue Farms, you want to use the Miner-All Indoor formula with D3 with a UVI level up 3 and if kept indoors. With Sticky Tongue Farms supplements, you need to gutload all feeders with Sticky Tongue Farms Vit-All prepared via the instructions
 

kinyonga

Chameleon Queen
To properly treat infections/abscesses, IMHO the areas need to be cleaned out and flushed thoroughly by a vet and a culture and sensitivity test done to determine the right antibiotic needed. Then the antibiotic will have a chance of curing the infection...although sometimes it has to be cleaned out more than once. The most common bacteria involved is pseudamonas...but are are others too.
 
Top Bottom