Misting Schedule

KamaKamaChameleon!

KamaKamaChameleon!

Avid Member
So i just wanted some advice to see if anything needs to be tweaked my misting schedule!

8-8:45am: Fogger goes and I lightly mist the cage for 2 minutes, and then the lights go on at 9am
3-5pm: The drippers goes on and then at 5pm it goes off
10pm-12am: The fogger goes on after the lights go off and I lightly mist the cage for 2 minutes
 
That sounds good but you may want to mist for longer because the fogger doesn't actually provide your chameleon with water to drink.
 
KamaKamaChameleon! said:
So i just wanted some advice to see if anything needs to be tweaked my misting schedule!

8-8:45am: Fogger goes and I lightly mist the cage for 2 minutes, and then the lights go on at 9am
3-5pm: The drippers goes on and then at 5pm it goes off
10pm-12am: The fogger goes on after the lights go off and I lightly mist the cage for 2 minutes
Click to expand...
This should be fine. Watch the urates to ensure hydration. Your modeling it after the natural hydration links I gave you correct?
 
Beman, NashansCamos, someone please elucidate...

A mister, a fogger, and a dripper? :confused:

KamaKamaChameleon! said:
8-8:45am: Fogger goes and I lightly mist the cage for 2 minutes, and then the lights go on at 9am
Click to expand...
Is this not redundant? Misting into a fogged enclosure should cause the smaller fog droplets to condense into the mist droplets, and lower the humidity, no? :confused:

3-5pm: The drippers goes on and then at 5pm it goes off
10pm-12am: The fogger goes on after the lights go off and I lightly mist the cage for 2 minutes
Click to expand...
Again, why mist after the fogger goes on. I thought I'd been reading that the fogger should be on all night—not just for a couple hours at bedtime. Will these 2 hrs. keep the humidity near 100% all night? :confused:
 
Klyde O'Scope said:
Beman, NashansCamos, someone please elucidate...

A mister, a fogger, and a dripper? :confused:


Is this not redundant? Misting into a fogged enclosure should cause the smaller fog droplets to condense into the mist droplets, and lower the humidity, no? :confused:


Again, why mist after the fogger goes on. I thought I'd been reading that the fogger should be on all night—not just for a couple hours at bedtime. Will these 2 hrs. keep the humidity near 100% all night? :confused:
Click to expand...
They are following very closely to Bill Strands natural hydration method. technically they do not need the fogger right before lights come on. They could do the misting. I have not found that humidity reduces as you mentioned.

I too thought the fogger should be run longer until Petr Necas explained that we can over hydrate doing this. I was only running mine 4 hours and urates were very runny. Now I run 3 hours and they have more of a form. (but I have a high natural humidity level of 65% on most nights without fogging) So apparently it is an adjust for your environment thing. They will need to reevaluate the urate when they have done it for a week or so and see if the night time fogging should be longer.
 
Beman said:
I too thought the fogger should be run longer until Petr Necas explained that we can over hydrate doing this.
Click to expand...

He also said:
PetNcs said:
Once the dew point is close to the temperature of the air during the night, the clouds automatically fall down and build fog that covers the entire environment and in that moment the air humidity is 100% and the Chamaeleon sits for hours and hours in very dense fog.
....
During whole year, use the following humidity regime with soft transitions:
Nighttime: 100%, fog
Click to expand...
I don't wish to argue; I'm trying to make sense out of the apparent self-contradictions. It always seems to be the way he says it is until he says it isn't, and then it's whatever he changes it to. ?
I'm not the only one to be frustrated by the inconsistency.

My mister arrived; I'm currently trying to set it up, and this stuff is making me crazy. ?
 
Klyde O'Scope said:
He also said:

I don't wish to argue; I'm trying to make sense out of the apparent self-contradictions. It always seems to be the way he says it is until he says it isn't, and then it's whatever he changes it to. ?
I'm not the only one to be frustrated by the inconsistency.

My mister arrived; I'm currently trying to set it up, and this stuff is making me crazy. ?
Click to expand...
No, I am pretty much right there with you trying to figure it all out. Not sure how it can be one way but then oh your over hydrating doing it that way.
I personally do not run my misting system at night. I never understood why we would want them to be sleeping and getting wet when shedding if this is the opposite of how they shed. I have different ambient humidity so I adjust for that.

So far my sweet spot to also combat humidity jumping too high when I am trying to drop it with the dehumidifier is 1 minute 15 minutes after 1st T5 kicks on. Then 1 minute at 5:30 after basking and 1 t5 have kicked off. Then 3 minutes at 6pm after the 2nd T5 kicks off. Then all lights are off at 6:30. This has worked well with my Veileds and the natural ambient humidity I deal with. Then I have been fogging at night for 3 hours from 1-4am.
I do not run a dripper. Urates are white and formed.

I think it is more of a fit it to your environment and species thing. Honestly I have a much better environment with my natural humidity levels to have Panthers so I have to do a bit more to adjust it to suit a Veiled's needs.
 
Beman said:
I personally do not run my misting system at night. I never understood why we would want them to be sleeping and getting wet when shedding if this is the opposite of how they shed.
Click to expand...
AFAIK, rain doesn't seem to care if it's day or night. :)
 
Klyde O'Scope said:
apparent self-contradictions. It always seems to be the way he says it is until he says it isn't, and then it's whatever he changes it to. ?
I'm not the only one to be frustrated by the inconsistency.
Click to expand...

Tell me what is contradictory?!
I really take offense by your generalization and accusing me from inconsistency, so deliver proofs!!!
Despite of I consider your note as extremely unfair, I will try to explain you.

NO SINGLE METHOD IS A RECEPT LIKE IF IT WAS A MACHINE. Chameleons are Living entities and they live in complex environment defined by many factors! It is not that you can het a recipe and take 5g of salt and 10g of glucose, you mix it and this is it.
YOU OBVIOUSLY NEED TO ADJUST!!!

So, tell Me
Who was ever you telling how much water you need to give to your chameleon? How many mililiters?! Anyone? Ever? No! Because you need to adjust

Have I ever said fogging is absolutely safe and you can fog as long as you want without any danger?! no! Of course you can fog too little and you can fog
Too much!!! AND YOU CAN FOG WRONG WAY.
The main parameters you need to take into consideration is
Duration of fogging
Intensity of fogging
Ventilation level of the cage
Position of the animal
Size of the cage
Temperature
Species
Humidity in the cage and around
And others.
How can I tell you the formula?!!
You need to adjust!

You need to Monitor the hydration level of the chameleon, which I consistently explain what it is and how you can assess it eg in my youtube channel and posts and then see whether it is OK, too little or too much!!!

Do not ridicule me! Same, as giving to an adult Yemen chameleon half gallon of water is an obvious BS, 15hours full power fogging in not ventilated small cage at 75F is a BS of same kind. And, I never recommend this!

The problem is not in my consistency but in your thinking and comprehension.

I expect an apology.
 
Beman said:
No, I am pretty much right there with you trying to figure it all out. Not sure how it can be one way but then oh your over hydrating doing it that way.
I personally do not run my misting system at night. I never understood why we would want them to be sleeping and getting wet when shedding if this is the opposite of how they shed. I have different ambient humidity so I adjust for that.

So far my sweet spot to also combat humidity jumping too high when I am trying to drop it with the dehumidifier is 1 minute 15 minutes after 1st T5 kicks on. Then 1 minute at 5:30 after basking and 1 t5 have kicked off. Then 3 minutes at 6pm after the 2nd T5 kicks off. Then all lights are off at 6:30. This has worked well with my Veileds and the natural ambient humidity I deal with. Then I have been fogging at night for 3 hours from 1-4am.
I do not run a dripper. Urates are white and formed.

I think it is more of a fit it to your environment and species thing. Honestly I have a much better environment with my natural humidity levels to have Panthers so I have to do a bit more to adjust it to suit a Veiled's needs.
Click to expand...

You just nicely demonstrate what does it mean to take rhings into consideration and ADJUST.
Giving the animals the proper conditions is an alchemy that basically bridges your general conditions your hair which specific means to compensate to get to the conditions which are needed by the chameleons. And this is the right approach. The only issue is you’re mistaken that a full white urate is a sign of good hydration. I have found out through research in the wild that the physiological norm even in the highest rainy season it’s never fully white so if your chameleon’s urates are completely white you are actually over hydrating your chameleon
 
Klyde O'Scope said:
AFAIK, rain doesn't seem to care if it's day or night. :)
Click to expand...
Rain of course cares! The distribution of rain is
Not equal between day and night and it
Depends from many factors, from the region and seasons etc.

As chameleons live predominantly in tropical climate, the clear pattern is:
There is MUCH more rain at night than in the daytime!!!
When the colder air replaces the warmer air in the lower atmosphere, the abundant moisture from the tropics loses the ability to be stored in the atmosphere. As a result, the excess moisture that cannot be held by the colder air is then turned into thunderstorms and rain showers.

This again shows, how shallow your thoughts are and your experience. Study more and train your critical thinking better than Present
Blank statements which are
False or Attack Someone for false inconsistency.
 
PetNcs said:
You just nicely demonstrate what does it mean to take rhings into consideration and ADJUST.
Giving the animals the proper conditions is an alchemy that basically bridges your general conditions your hair which specific means to compensate to get to the conditions which are needed by the chameleons. And this is the right approach. The only issue is you’re mistaken that a full white urate is a sign of good hydration. I have found out through research in the wild that the physiological norm even in the highest rainy season it’s never fully white so if your chameleon’s urates are completely white you are actually over hydrating your chameleon
Click to expand...
Yes, I do understand. I am still adjusting to find the right level for my fogging length.

Perhaps you can answer for me. My natural humidity level at night is 65%-70% without fogging. Could it be that even though I have reduced my fogging time that due to my natural humidity level it effects the natural hydration? I suppose this is something that I have never understood completely because I think of fog and think that is how they have to get it. But could my higher natural humidity level still effect the urate form and color?
 
Floofy said:
That sounds good but you may want to mist for longer because the fogger doesn't actually provide your chameleon with water to drink.
Click to expand...
This is not true
FOG HYDRATES
fog provides the chameleon with water for ots tissues
 
Klyde O'Scope said:
Is this not redundant? Misting into a fogged enclosure should cause the smaller fog droplets to condense into the mist droplets, and lower the humidity, no?
Click to expand...
NO! No way
This Has nothing to do with the physics of that process
Do you hear how absurd it sounds? Adding kist to Fog decreases the humidity... means addin water to mixture of air and water should decrease humidity? Really, no
 
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